Somehow both demure and grand at the same time, the beautiful old-world charm of Lilianfels Resort and Spa sets the tone for a romantic stay in the Blue Mountains, just 90mins from Sydney.
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Just a couple of hundred metres from the famous Three Sisters rock formation in Katoomba, Lilianfels Resort and Spa is an icon of Blue Mountains heritage.
This grand old mansion was built as a summer residence by the highly respected Sir Frederick Darley in 1889. The house gets its name from a combination of one of his five daughters, Lilian, who had recently passed away from TB aged just 22, and the German word ‘fels’ meaning ‘high place’.
Over the years, it’s been a summer house to a number of families after the Darleys left for England in 1907. Although the main building of the hotel is a modern addition, the decor and layout is still in keeping with the original house. The feeling of the relaxed sophistication of a bygone era on holiday still remains within the walls.
The flowing entrance and reception that leads through to the bar and Lounge, the wandering halls and corridors, and the grand staircase leading the hotel’s 81 rooms and four suites are all decorated with firm nods to the 19th Century.
Check out our video review of Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort and Spa here:
Our Room At Lilianfels
Well-appointed and spacious, our room has that hard-to-achieve quality of combined homely comfort and high-end luxury that many hotels miss. Perhaps it’s the heritage of the place or its unique location.
Perhaps it’s the thoughtful addition of artwork and period furniture or the full-size bath and roomy shower in the marble-clad bathroom. Perhaps it’s the wide windows that open far enough to suggest a surprising faith in guests’ common sense.
Or maybe the beautiful (and expensive) fabric that ensconces both the window frame and the brass and cast iron bedstead.
Either way, the room is the perfect base for a romantic stay in the mountains — especially with the complimentary cheese platter and bottle of Champagne waiting for us on the glass and dark timber table.
Facilities At Lilianfels
As we explore the property, which is surrounded by well-kept gardens and terraces, and whose driveway and entrance is bordered by lawns punctuated by beautiful trees, we discover more about Lilianfels.
I’m excited to see the Billiards Room is home to not a billiards table but a full size snooker table. Sadly this enormous arena (it’s twice the size of a pool table — A3 to A4 paper dimensions) has a large rip in the baize, but it doesn’t stop us having a game.
Two hours later and three beers from the bar, and we finally pot the black. I’d forgotten just how hard snooker is and it was Christina’s first ever game, possibly her last!
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Down another corridor, we find the wellness spa and lavish indoor pool. The offerings here are as you would expect from a five-star resort hotel, but staff here are so incredibly friendly to the point where we almost pull up a seat for a chat.
We also find the Reading Room, though it’s probably the last place I’d want to sit and read. If there’s any point in this hotel that probably needs a bit of work, it’s this room.
The lighting is overly bright and cold, the seats lack that squashy armchair feel you’d hope and the titles of some of the books hark back a little too firmly to imperial times of colonisation for our palate.
We take a walk in the gardens and discover the outdoor pool. Here, the ‘resort’ part of Lilianfels Resort and Spa comes into play.
Dining Options At Lilianfels
This is really where Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort and Spa excels.
Of course, Darley’s — the hotel’s multi-hatted restaurant — is where you want to be. Not only does the food here surpass anything anywhere in the area, it’s also in the original summer house that Sir Darley built in the late 1800s.
Sadly, we’re here on the days when Darley’s is shut — it’s open Tuesday to Saturday — but thankfully this isn’t the only food string to Lilianfels’ dining bow.
Echoes Rooftop Restaurant and Bar
As the sun sets, we enjoy the view of the escarpment from Echoes, Lilianfels’ other fine-dining restaurant. The food here is superb and it has to be to keep our attention from the incredible views as night falls.
Things kick off with amuse bouche of house-made sourdough and two butters — a regular salted butter and a cafe de Paris style curried butter with apricots and pine nuts, and chicken croquettes with spices chilli mayo.
I opt for the beef tartare with a difference: a quail egg yolk sits on the freshly diced meat that has a sprinkle of crushed roasted peanuts instead of the usual capers. And instead of toast, the dish is served with crispy plantain, which I think is brilliant. I love plantain.
Christina opts for the cured trout and Yamba prawns with crunchy greens and trout roe. It’s fresh, light and packed with flavour.
For mains, we have the char-grilled wagyu with grilled mushroom and asparagus, and seared five-spice duck breast with charred sesame cucumber and zucchini flower.
We finish by sharing a signature Seasonal Berry Tart — a pistachio cream, frangipane raspberry sorbet masterpiece with fresh strawberries and blueberries artfully crowning the ensemble.
The Lounge
On the far side of the hotel from reception, and cleverly just past the beckoning hand of the handsome art deco lobby bar, The Lounge is Lilianfels’ casual dining spot.
Comfy armchairs and sofas (which would work well in the Reading Room by the way) fill the space as well as elegant high-backed dining settings, and the open fire to one side create a salubrious and relaxing atmosphere.
High tea is available in the afternoons here, and dinner is open until 9.30pm.
Our shared entree of burrata on a caprese salad is fresh yet satisfying, and Christina’s braised beef short rib with heirloom carrots and creamy mash is to die for. My wagyu cheeseburger is a little underdone, but I don’t mind. I love a challenge and the flavours are all there.
We’re also joined by the hotel’s mascot Sir Fred. Named after Sir Frederick Darley, whose house this was originally, this cuddly teddy keeps guests company and entertains the kids. What an honour to have him at our table.
Breakfast at the Orangery
In the morning, breakfast at the interestingly named Orangery sets us up for a day of exploring. I have no idea why it’s called the Orangery or what an orangery is, but the breakfast here is excellent. They even have a pikelet machine here that deposits freshly made pancakes onto your plate at will!
How Close Is Echo Point?
From Lilianfels to Echo Point, the purpose-built viewing platform to enjoy the Three Sisters in all their glory, you can walk down the road if you like.
But thanks to a staff tip-off, taking the little path and staircase behind the hotel, we’re treated to not only some wonderful views from Lady Darley Lookout, but also a much easier way down to the point.
The way from there along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk is also much nicer than the road. It brings you right to the feet — or maybe midriff — of the impressive pinnacles that the legend of the local Darug people say are three sisters Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo.
The sisters were turned to stone by a witchdoctor to keep them safe from three marauding brothers from another tribe. The witchdoctor planned to turn them back into women when the attack was over, but he was killed before he could reverse the spell, and so the sisters remain here forever.
From the Three Sisters, there are many walks you can do that thread throughout the aptly named Megalong Valley, but we just explore the way up to the side of these great monoliths, then head back to the comfort of our hotel.
Besides, the cicadas are out in force today; it’s a cacophony that only cold beer can sooth!
