Perched on the water’s edge with the happy busy crowds of Darling Harbour revellers teeming below, two-Hatted Atelier and its relaxed, modern take on fine dining mixes perfectly with that French savoir faire for romance.
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While the fine-dining scene has been working through some things, growing into its next life stage, Atelier in Sydney’s Darling Harbour has been ahead of that particular curve since it opened in 2017.
Atelier’s intimate, service-forward ethos brings out the feeling relaxed refinement and luxury that most other top-end restaurants are still wrestling into place.
It’s that fine balancing act of harnessing the traditional without being stuffy, the high-end without being snobby, the elegance without the side eye.
Read our full review of the Sofitel Darling Harbour here.
Dinner at Atelier in Darling Harbour
Being part of the Sofitel Darling Harbour, you expect Atelier to have that ‘just another hotel restaurant’ vibe, but that’s not the case here.
None of the usual hotel trappings that tend to leak out into the dining experience at Atelier. This is a self-contained in-its-own-right restaurant that attracts just as many people not staying in the hotel as actual guests, if not more.
Having said that — and this is my only reservation with Atelier — entering the restaurant is a bit… strange.
From the maitre d’ station at the entrance, you have to walk through a large room full of empty tables and chairs before you get to Atelier. This is where the hotel serves breakfast and it just feels a bit uncomfortable, a bit deserted.
The kitchens are also in the breakfast room, which is a shame. These are open kitchens and it would be nice to feel a bit more connected to them during dinner.
The food coming from the distant kitchens, however, is excellent and the atmosphere in Atelier proper is cosy and convivial.
Entrees
Choosing entrees at Atelier is actually quite challenging; but that’s what happens with a paradox of choice. You want everything, but because of that, you can’t pick one.
After lengthy negotiations, we settle on the charcoal-grilled octopus from the kitchen’s specialised Mibrasa grill, which acts as a combination grill and oven. This specialised Spanish oven sears, cooks and smokes all at the same time.
The octopus is butter tender and comes with a kind of ratatouille, though there’s a freshness and crunch in the capsicum and a light creaminess too. On top is a wonderfully velvety saffron sabayon that slowly collapses on itself adding richness and umami.
It’s a clever dish that can only come from a kitchen that knows its stuff.
We also order the O’Connor black angus beef tartare. Christina and I have made a pact that if there’s ever a tartare on the menu, we have to order it. Boy, are we glad we did this time.
Quite possibly the best we’ve had, this tartare is really something. Dressed to impress, the steak is plated with tiny geranium leaves, parsley and edible flowers. For the all-important acidity, the kitchen has gone with pickled onion petals as well as capers, and the egg has been confited until it’s slightly gelatinous.
Buried deep inside the tartare is a rich remoulade, a kind of gently spiced mayonnaise, that brings a voluptuous creaminess to the ensemble.
We each have a glass of La Comtesse Chardonnay from Mudgee-based winery De Beaurepaire that cuts through the richness of the entrees, but also has a lovely creamy body all of its own.
Mains
Because of the kitchen’s special Mibrasa oven, we feel duty-bound to order a steak (yes, it’s a tough life, isn’t it) and it turns out to be an excellent decision.
The black angus tenderloin (cooked rare) is a thick generous cut. The Mibrasa has given the outside a beautiful crusty char while the inside is red and rested.
In terms of sauce, I have opted for the confit garlic and herb butter — basically a luxed-up cafe de Paris — but to be honest the steak doesn’t need it; there’s so much flavour and juiciness here. However, it does go well with the duck fat roasted Andean sunrise potatoes.
One of the other unique things about Atelier is the kitchen dry ages its own ducks. You can see them hanging in the cabinet next to the Mibrasa.
Of course, this influences our other choice of main: the dry-aged corn-fed duck breast from Moorabool Valley near Geelong.
The duck breast is perfectly cooked: pink where it should be, bronzed like a Greek god everywhere else. While the meat is quite salty on its own, the glossy rocher of apple sauce is acidic enough that it balances everything out to the point of buoyancy.
With our main meals, we have a glass of De Beaurepaire’s Perceval Pinot Noir and a bold Grenache from the Other Wine Co in McLaren Vale.
Dessert
Somehow our server Gabriela convinces us to squeeze in dessert, specifically the Vietnamese dark chocolate, coconut, pandan and mint delice.
We’re apprehensive at first, but it turns out to be a lovely dessert. I’m not a fan of pandan, but its delicate floral flavour works well with the coconut and mint.
Gabriela also treats us to a glass of De Beaurepaire Botrytis, which blends so perfectly with the sharpness of the mint and the depth of flavour of the Vietnamese dark chocolate.
This is an outstanding dining experience, full of romance and wonderful food. Atelier is the perfect place for a romantic meal or to celebrate a special occasion.
