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I wipe sweat from my eyes as we stare at what’s in front of us. Although we’ve been on the road for two days to get here, it’s still so striking I’m struggling to collect my thoughts.

And although we’ve just got out of the van’s air conditioning, my clothes are stuck to me and my water bottle needs another refill.

Thailand in April has a reputation.

We’re looking out at a fairly simple steel bridge about 130m long with a single gauge train track running along it. Beneath it is a fast-running but otherwise unremarkable river.

The bridge has no name in spite of its infamy. Instead, it’s the river below that takes the title.

Thais call it Kwae Yai. We know it as the River Kwai.

Bridge Over The River Kwai And The Burma Railway

Running from Ban Pong near Bangkok 415km northwest to Thanbyuzayat in Myanmar, the aptly named Death Railway was a major project of the Japanese Imperial Army (JIA) in the later stages of World War II.

Planning to create supply routes between Thailand and the west coast of Burma (now Myanmar), the JIA built a train line through mountains and jungles, and over rivers.

They used Allied prisoners of war, captured in Singapore and Indonesia, and conscripted civilians from different parts of Asia as an enslaved labour force.

Between May 1942 and August 1943, 60,000 PoWs and 200,000+ civilians from around Asia worked on the line. More than 13,000 soldiers and up 80,000 Asian labourers lost their lives here. On average, 20 men died a day in those 15 savage months.

Much of the Death Railway has gone now, but a 120km stretch of track still operates, and what remains is heavy with history.

Here are 7 points along the Burma Railway that are well worth visiting to learn about this incredible epoch that had far-reaching impacts in Thailand and the world at large.

1. Thonburi Rail Station, Bangkok – where the Burma Railway began

Historically, Thonburi Station is the start of the Burma Railway that went from Bangkok all the way up to Thanbyuzayat in Myanmar some 415km north. The station was bombed by the Allies in WWII and rebuilt in the 1950s.

You can catch a train from this station, which is still considered the 0km mark for Bangkok train systems, and it’ll take you all the way to Kanchanaburi and the Death Railway proper.

2. Ban Pong — historic Burma Railway begins

About 70km west of Bangkok’s Thonburi Station, Ban Pong is the first stop on the Namtok Line, the track on the original supply line of the Burma Railway.

Although we didn’t join the train trip here, we did stop for lunch. Highly recommended is the Rain Tree Cafe 10 minutes up the road from the station on the banks of the Mae Klong River.

One thing I really wasn’t expecting to find (or like for that matter) was a local specialty ‘coffee orange’. Half fresh orange juice and half cold brew coffee, this drink sounds pretty awful, but it’s surprisingly tasty and even better on a hot day.

I’ll be keeping this idea in my pocket for the heat of the Sydney summer for sure.

3. Bridge over the River Kwai

The Mae Klong River winds through southern Kanchanaburi to join the famous River Kwai and its bridge, and then on to the sea.

You get a solemn thrill seeing the bridge for the first time. The curved arches on either bank are the originals from WWII, but the middle square sections are replacements from where Allied forces blew it up in 1945.

You can walk across the bridge along the train tracks, which is quite a strange sensation. Especially as trains do still run along here.

It’s hard to imagine, with all the hotels, restaurants, shops and market stalls lining the river, that this was once a place of torment, struggle and death.

4. Kanchanaburi War Cemetery and Museum

A little way downstream from the bridge is Don Rak, the biggest Allied war cemetery in Thailand.

Here, 6,858 war graves mark the final resting place of Australian, New Zealand, British and Dutch soldiers lost in the construction of the Burma-Siam Railway.

The cemetery is beautifully maintained. Headstones are clean and polished, and the grass and pretty shrubs are in good order.

Down the road is the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre, an excellent museum that shows what the conditions were like, the purpose of the railway and many more details.

5. Hellfire Pass or Konyu Cutting — Anzac memorial and museum

For us, the most significant site of the Burma Railway is Hellfire Pass. This place brings into sharp focus the horrors and insurmountable tasks the PoWs had to endure. Hellfire Pass — or Konyu Cutting — is the deepest and longest section of excavation along the railway.

Men hacked and chipped their way through solid rock on no sleep, no food, no water, and the threat of pain and death always hanging over them. The cutting runs 25 metres deep and 75 metres long, and is wide enough for a train to fit through.

At the end of the cutting is the ANZAC Memorial where the Dawn Service is held on 25th April every year. We were lucky enough to be able to attend the Dawn Service here. Outside Europe, this is one of the few memorials that hold such a ceremony in a place that has seen active conflict.

It’s an immensely thought-provoking place that brings to life the enormity of what the soldiers who suffered here had to endure.

While you’re here at Konyu Cutting, make sure you also visit the Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre and Memorial Walkway.

This museum has some fascinating (and haunting) exhibits, which start with sounds of steel hammers on stone and a narrow corridor representing the cutting. On the walls are the names of the men who worked on the railway.

They cover both walls, floor to ceiling.

6. Hintok River Camp

There are plenty of places to stay around the area, including in Kanchanaburi Town itself. We stayed close to Hellfire Pass at the Hintok River Camp.

Once a labour camp for British PoWs working on nearby Compressor Cutting, this site is now a glamping resort.

There are plenty of nods to its history, including the replica guard tower at the entrance, but thankfully it’s nothing like what the site’s previous occupants would’ve had to put up with.

The ‘tents’ are extremely comfortable — with a full bathroom, kingsize bed and even a/c. Breakfast and dinner are served here at the camp, there’s a pool and deck out on the river, and you can even grab a massage at the on-site spa!

A long way indeed from the conditions of the 1940s.

7. Nam Tok Station – the end of the line

This is our last stop on the Burma-Siam Railway. From here, you can board one of the old mulberry and gold carriages of a heritage train.

It’s a strange, conflicting feeling riding this line.

On one hand, you’re appalled at the brutality that occurred here. On the other, you can’t help but feel impressed by what these men were able to achieve under such conditions.

And yet still more conflicting are the views from the train windows, which are at times so beautiful, it’s easy to forget the real reason you’re taking this ride. The curve of the track shows the train’s flank and the timber trestles as it leans against the edges of cliffs.

Occasionally, the river comes into view following the train, and running fast through fields and amongst little villages that roll on by.

It’s an iconic train ride in a place that brings deep reflection.

We travelled as media with Tourism Authority of Thailand and Intrepid Travel, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post 7 Points On The Burma Railway You Must See appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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For the longest time, Laos has been ignored by all but the most adventurous travellers and not just because it’s surrounded by countries with bigger marketing budgets — and beaches. The truth is the roads have made it hard to travel around Laos.

Up until recently (as in 2021), travellers wanting to visit places like Vang Vieng would have to subject themselves to hours-long spine-squashing van rides along crumbling dirt roads that wind their way through a precipitous mountain scape.

But now, a new high-speed rail line, built and paid for by China, hurtles you through the countryside at over 160kmp/h, turning the unpleasant day-long journey into a quick air-conditioned one-hour trip.

And we took this train on an incredible 10-day journey in Laos that we mentioned here in our Flavour of The Month of March.

For a full rundown of our 10-day trip through Laos – from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, click here.

You can also see our video that travels through Laos here:

How to Get Tickets

At the moment, buying tickets for the Laos train is quite complicated. There are lots of third-party sites offering booking services — some of which look a bit scammy, so be careful buying tickets.

What makes it more complex is that tickets are only issued a few days out from travel, but you need to book because the trains fill up quickly.

This link will take you to Viator, which has reasonable prices on tickets and is a trusted provider, and you’ll have your e-tickets sent to you a day or two before your train trip.

Prices are good considering you can get from Vientiane to Luang Prabang in under two hours, so it’s understandable why the train’s popular. The same trip by road would be many hours, possibly over two days.

We travelled with tour company InsideAsia Travel on their Laos by Rail itinerary. This tour took us from Laos’ capital all the way up to Luang Prabang via Vang Vieng on the train. InsideAsia organised all the train tickets, taking all the stress of booking and collecting the tickets out of our trip.

Arriving at the Station

Before you head to the station to board the train, make sure your luggage is compliant with the rules of travel.

The Boten-Vientiane Railway is very strict with what you can and can’t bring on the train. In many ways, it’s stricter than airports and flight companies.

Along with the usual explosives, guns, ammunition, chemicals, drugs, animals etc, things like aerosols and spray cans are illegal on the train. Even if you pack your deodorant in your main luggage, the scanners at the main door of the station will pick them up.

No scissors, penknives or multitools are permitted either. I had my very expensive Leatherman confiscated as well as my deodorant at Vientiane Station. They don’t miss a trick.

Some foods are banned too: “Passengers are prohibited from bringing all kinds of food that has a bad smell and watery food that will create impurity.”

Because security is so tight, make sure you arrive with plenty of time to spare.

Inside, the cavernous lounge has plenty of seating and a small shop where you can buy snacks but not much else.

Boarding the Train

No one is allowed onto the platform before the train has stopped. And even though your ticket comes with seat allocation, be prepared to queue up to get onto the platform.

Once the doors open, it becomes a bit of a free for all January sales kind of rush. Really, there’s no need to line up or hurry, as your seat is assigned, but you tend to get caught up in things, don’t you.

Having said that, the trains leave very promptly, so make sure you don’t dawdle. Station employees on the platform usher you along to the point of being pushy, and lingering on the platform for photos will eventually court the ire of the jobsworth guards.

Then they get a bit shouty.

Onboard the Train

Once in your seat, things are comfortable enough. Seats are in a 2-2 formation, there is in-seat power for any electrical devices and the seatbacks can recline quite a bit. Luggage storage space is limited, however, and the overhead storage isn’t up to much, so bear that in mind when you pack and when you get on the train.

There are Western style toilets on board.

A food trolley goes through the carriages between stops, where you can pick up local snacks, but no alcohol is allowed on the train.

The views out of the large windows whisk past as you hurtle through the Lao countryside. It’s a relaxing, comfortable journey.

There are plenty of announcements over the PA as you travel, mostly centred around keeping the train clean and tidy.

My favourite was:

“Ladies and gentlemen, please tighten the lid of your bottle and don’t allow children or the elderly to drink from bottles while the train is in motion.”

Disembarking the Train

Once the train pulls into the station and you get off, you can’t hang around on the platform. Much like boarding the train, if you don’t move on immediately, staff will become ‘assertive’.

People at the back of the group have guards nipping at their heals.

Over all, the Boten-Vientiane Railway is a great service, making Laos a much easier place to travel.

The trains and their gargantuan stations are clean, efficient and effective, and the fact that you get to see parts of the Laos countryside you’d never see from the road make this a very attractive way to get around.

There are rumours that this line will extend much further in the next few years, covering not just more of Laos, but internationally too. Eventually, it might go as far as Singapore and connect to southern China — over 2,500km of track.

Now, that would be a train journey to take!

We travelled as media with InsideAsia Travel, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Travelling The Boten–Vientiane Railway — Laos’ high-speed train journey appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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When we told our friends we were going on the Ghan, we were surprised at the range of reactions.

For the most part, it was a positive mix of envy and intrigue. But one friend in particular made us realise that a lot of the people don’t know what this iconic train journey is really about.

“How are you going to make sitting on a train for four days look interesting?” he asked.

For one, you’re not just sitting on the train the whole time. It’s not a commuter line.

If the Ghan were to run nonstop from Darwin to Adelaide at its average speed, the train would pull into Adelaide in about a day and a half. Instead, it takes four days.

Check out our video on the Ghan’s off-train excursions here: 

For another, the majority of the time you’re on the train, you’re either sleeping, eating, drinking or chatting with other passengers. There’s almost not enough time to stare out the window and to embrace the romance of the scenery as it rolls alongside your tracks.

Here’s our video of what it’s like on the Ghan–the cabins, the food, the views.

What Off-Train Experiences Did We Do?

First of all, it’s important to know there’s a difference between going north to going south. Departing from Darwin, the journey is called the Ghan Expedition. It’s a four-day three-night trip.

Check out our full review of what it’s like onboard the Ghan here.

Departing from Adelaide, the train is simply The Ghan and takes three days and two nights. This trip therefore has fewer off-train experiences than the Ghan Expedition.

We were on the Ghan Expedition from Darwin to Adelaide, and these* are the things we did on our way down:

*These experiences are all included in the price of the ticket. There are options like scenic flights that will cost extra.

1. Katherine and Nitmiluk Gorge

After only a few hours on the train—just enough to settle into your cabin and grab a drink at the bar—the train pulls into Katherine.

From the platform, we’re taken by coach to the banks of the Nitmiluk (once Katherine) River for a cruise through the enigmatic Nitmiluk Gorge.

The flowing river that sits between the towering red cliffs is full of barramundi, which means lots of crocodiles too. But aside from the wildlife, there’s also a rich history here. The river represents country borders and therefore a meeting place for the Jawoyn, Dagoman and Wardaman people.

Separated by natural weirs, the river is in fact a network of several gorges, so there are times when you have to disembark the launch and cross to the next boat.

Although the guided boat ride is interesting, having your feet on the ground here really brings home the spiritual significance of this place. There’s a magic in these rocks that seeps through the soles of your shoes.

2. Alice Springs and Standley Chasm Crafting And Cultural Walk

Day two sees the Ghan pull into the central city of Alice Springs, where you spend the whole day.

Standley Chasm (or Angkerle Atwatye—meaning ‘Gap of Water’—in the Arrernte language) is a half-hour coach ride west of town. We start with the opportunity to try our hand at telling our story through painting with symbols and techniques that the Arrernte (pronounced ‘a-run-duh’) have used for millennia.

We’re then led on a guided walk through the bush to the impressive Standley Chasm.

At its narrowest, the chasm is just three metres wide, yet its cliffs tower 80m either side.

Of course, this is a deeply spiritual place for the Arrente, but it’s not just the chasm that’s special. Our guide shows us some of the other things that are special here that he learnt when he was growing up.

We put our ears against the trunks of river oak trees to hear the strange popping clicking noises of the tree drinking water and learn about the songlines of the Western Arrernte.

After a light lunch, we head back to the train to change for dinner.

3. Outback dinner at historic Telegraph Station

Not far out of Alice Springs is the historic site of Telegraph Station. This was the first place in Australia to be able to send and receive telecommunications from Britain and was the original site of the settlement that became Alice Springs.

This site, which dates back to 1871, is set out for our al fresco feast with gala-style tables, free-flowing wine and beer, camel rides, a band, a stargazer and even a blacksmith showing traditional smithing techniques.

It’s an atmospheric dinner that not only takes you back to a bygone era but that also highlights the outback spirit of this incredible journey.

4. Coober Pedy

Saving the best till last, the full day in and around Coober Pedy is amazing. Famous for its opal mines, this strange underground town is a must-see.

– Lunch and noodling in the mine

Down a long, sloping tunnel of a mine that’s been set up for visitors, we explore the various excavated rooms, have a go at ‘noodling’, which is the name given to searching through stone chips for opal, and even smashing the wall with a mining pick.

Set in a long, high-ceilinged hall, our lunch table stretches out waiting for our attention. The food is excellent and the novel setting makes it even better.

– Town of Coober Pedy

Soon, we head into the weird barren town of Coober Pedy itself. Many of the homes here are built underground. Temperatures can go higher than 50°C in the summer, but the cool rock keeps these subterranean homes at a comfortable 25°C year round.

We visit a home that’s open to tours and visit an opal shop as well.

Keen to explore the town further, Christina and I escape the group and go exploring. Coober Pedy does not disappoint and is even stranger than we thought it would be.

Our final stop is at the Serbian Orthodox Church, which, like many of the homes, digs into the side of a hill and down. It has an eerie, Indiana Jones quality.

– Breakaways and Dog Fence

After a short stop at the Dog Fence—the longest continuous construction on earth, which runs from the Gold Coast in Qld right down the Australian Bight in SA—we also visit the Breakaways, a set of striking plateaus seemingly sprouting from the desert floor.

They’re the result of the ancient inland sea that once filled this expanse of land and the create such an unearthly landscape.

Part of this national park has been used in a number of films over the years, including Mad Max Beyond the Thunderdome.

– Camp fire beside the train

Our coach takes us back to the train through the vast minefields that cover almost 6,000km² and are home to some 1.3 million mine shafts.

We arrive back at the train to discover the crew have been busy setting up a huge bonfire next to the tracks.

Drinks and canapés circulate, and we relax around the warm glow of the fire as the sun goes down and the desert turns chilly.

We travelled on the Ghan as media guests with Journey Beyond, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post On The Right Side Of The Tracks – what are the Ghan’s off-train experiences like? appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Almost a kilometre long, the 36 carriages and two locomotive engines of the Ghan stretches out into the distance along the humid platform in Darwin, Australia’s most northerly city.

We love train travel and have had some amazing experiences on the tracks over the years, but we’ve always wanted to go on the Ghan.

As we wait to board, we admire the shining flank of the train, its iconic insignia of a mounted cameleer glimmering in the morning light.

The Ghan takes its name from the Afghan camel-riders who helped early English explorers find their way through the deserts of central Australia. And their camels—or descendants of them—still roam wild in the Outback.

Check out our video walkthrough of the Ghan Expedition train here:

One of Australia’s truly great journeys, the Ghan will take us through much of the land that those cameleers travelled through—from the tropical Top End all the way down to Adelaide in South Australia.

Click here for the best accommodation options in Adelaide.

It’s an epic 3,000km train journey that takes you through some of the most fascinating landscapes and even, at one point, down to the edge of the ocean.

And we watch this less-seen side of Australia roll by from the wide windows and comfort of our sleeper or the boisterous atmosphere of the bar car or the old-world elegance of our on-board restaurant the Queen Adelaide.

Soon we climb aboard our allocated carriage and enter the world of the Ghan.

What Are The Rooms Like On The Ghan?

On the Ghan, everyone has a sleeper cabin. These range from single sleepers to Platinum Class, which have a queen beds and large en suites. During the day, staff transform your bedroom into a lounge, your bed turning into a comfortable sofa.

And then while you’re at dinner, staff come round again and turn your cabin back into a bedroom, even with chocolates on the pillow to match the incredible level of service throughout the experience.

The majority of the guests—us included—are in the Gold Class cabins. These have bunk beds and a smaller en suite than the Platinum cars. It’s a bit of a tight fit for two people, but that’s part of the adventure, part of the charm.

Also part of the charm is the old-world train travel vibes you get from the details of these rooms. Wood and tan leather finishes, brass fittings, winders for the window blinds and even the decoration around the vanity mirror all add to the Ghan experience.

The Train’s Bar Cars

Interspersed throughout the train are bar cars for guests to relax in at any point on the journey. All drinks are included with the price of your ticket, so these cars are rarely empty!

Matching the old-world quaintness of the sleeper cabins, the bar car, lit with a warm golden light and decked out in ruddy browns to match the horizon that wizzes past the broad windows.

Comfortable booths and leather bucket chairs line the sides of the car, while the bar at the end of the carriage has a few high stools and a table to perch on. The staff here work hard to keep up with the busiest part of the train.

For the Gold Class passengers, our drinks menu is replete with premium beers, wines and spirits. The likes of Coriole and Yalumba wines (Croser and Grant Burge for sparkling wine), Jack Daniels and Stoli in the spirits—even an Aussie craft distillery for the gin—and household names in the beer fridge. There’s even a good range of fortified and dessert wines as well as non-alcoholic options of course.

In the Platinum bar, things are almost the same but with a few upgrades (Glenfiddich and Hennessy, I’m looking at you) and the one big difference being the house pour for sparkling is, impressively, Bollinger!

The Ghan’s Restaurants

All on-train meals (as there are some meals that you have during your excursions) are in your designated restaurant. For us, that’s the elegant Queen Adelaide Restaurant, named after the consort to King William IV, who also gave her name to the southern city we’re heading for.

Here, more than anywhere else, you feel the old-world charm of an Agatha Christie novel—minus any heinous murder of course!

Tables for four line both sides of the carriage laid with crisp white tablecloths, sparkling cutlery and all the other accoutrements of silver service dining. Each table is sectioned booth style by sweeping etched glass above the backs of the comfortable bench seating.

Details like the golden panel of ornate pressed tin along the ceiling and the curved lighting and scrollwork decorated with the restaurant’s crest above our heads add wonderful ambience and warmth to this car.

The Platinum passengers’ restaurant, although recently renovated to with beautiful art deco accents, doesn’t quite have the same atmosphere as the Queen Adelaide. Even the staff we speak to tell us they enjoy serving this restaurant the most.

All breakfasts and most dinners are here, and generally speaking the train’s moving while you eat.

And apart from bringing a challenge to the staff (though the train’s Chef de Partie, Drew Cornelius, admits he prefers cooking when the train’s in motion), seeing the landscape march past as you dine in this unique setting is unforgettable.

What’s The Food Like On The Ghan?

Simply put, the food on the Ghan is awesome.

Each meal you have on board is served a la carte—breakfasts are a two-course affair (not including toast and jams for the table) and dinners are three-courses. Choosing your meal is probably the hardest part of your trip.

For example, our first meal—brunch on the morning we leave Darwin—offers a huge full breakfast, halloumi and roasted vegetable salad, ham frittata or fragrant buffalo curry, followed by a choice of either white chocolate and lychee pancakes or wild berry and chia seed parfait.

Breakfast menus are similar but also come with fresh juice and an entree of cereals or things like wild berry and river mint natural yoghurt.

Dinners are even more sumptuous.

Things like crocodile dumplings with savoy cabbage dressed in gochujang, anise myrtle and sesame or tender duck breast with a Kakadu plum and ginger glaze are on the entree menu.

And mains are still more elaborate. Grilled saltwater barramundi with wake seaweed and sweet potato noodles or succulent braised beef with pickled mustard greens, oyster mushrooms and horseradish mashed potatoes.

As for dessert, options like lychee and berry mousse gateau, coconut and raspberry ice cream or a cheese board with matching fortified wine will leave even the greediest of us (me) sated.

It’s hard to imagine how such high-quality food is possible on a train, which has just six chefs cooking in three kitchens along the Ghan to feed over 200 guests.

Nevertheless, it’s safe to say you’re not going hungry on the Ghan.

What’s It Like To Sleep On The Ghan?

In short, if you find yourself falling asleep (as a passenger) on long car rides, you’ll have no problem sleeping on the Ghan.

Gently rocked by the motion of the train as it weaves its way through the enormous landscape of the Australian Outback, sleep comes quickly and enduringly to us both. It’s been a while since either of us has slept in a bunk bed, but the comfortable mattresses and cosy covers (as well as our full bellies) lull us into deep, quality sleep.

The majority of the distance that the Ghan travels is done overnight, so invariably you’ll be sleeping while the train is moving.

And there’s another benefit of being on the Ghan Expedition, which runs from north-south from Darwin to Adelaide rather than south to north, other than having a whole extra day aboard.

Because the rainy season in the NT deteriorates the tracks comparatively quickly, the rails in the north are newer and therefore smoother than those in the southern parts of the journey. Starting off with smoother rails gets you used to the motion of the train at night before things get a bit bumpier at the end.

How Much Time Do You Spend On The Ghan?

To give you some perspective, if the train were to travel nonstop from Darwin to Adelaide at its average speed of 85km/h, it would be a day-and-a-half train journey. But because of the various excursions and off-train experiences, the Ghan makes the distance in four days.

Most of the travel on the train happens overnight. For the rest of it you’re socialising, getting ready to go on excursions, resting after excursions, or eating and drinking. There’s very little time to get bored on the Ghan.

Indeed, in a way it would be nice to spend a bit more time gazing through the window admiring the seemingly boundless stretches of this vast continent, watching as the wilderness pans past and embracing the romance of one of the world’s great train journeys.

We travelled on the Ghan as media guests with Journey Beyond Travel Group, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post What’s It Like To Travel On The Ghan Train? appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

There’s nowhere else in the world quite like Europe for travel opportunities. It’s compact, it’s diverse, it’s safe—I say each of these with ‘relatively’ as a prefix of course.

But being able to travel through so many different countries easily makes Europe the perfect place to lily-pad your way around and really maximise your time away.

The question is, what’s the best way to travel through Europe?

Bearing in mind we’re talking about travelling at speed, let’s rule out walking and cycling for the moment. I also don’t want to openly condone hitch-hiking.

You’re left with a few options:

Flying around Europe

Obviously the quickest, but also the most expensive and the worst in carbon footprint terms, flying will get you to your destination but at several costs. And with airlines constantly tightening their belts, passenger experience always suffers in the end.

For example, Ryan Air’s very restrictive luggage allowance means you’ll either need to pack light (tickets are cheap because they start with no luggage and you pay for every extra piece as you go), or pay through the nose.

Airports are also always a distance from the city, which means getting into the town or city and back out again when you leave.

Driving around Europe

When you have your own car (or motorbike if you’re game!), you have total independence. You can go wherever you want wherever you want and you never have to worry about luggage allowance or repacking every time you move.

Downsides are car rental prices—especially when you’re not returning the car to the same location—can be high, you’re at the whim of obscure local road rules (I got a ticket for driving through a piazza in Italy once!) and then there are the borders.

Not many rental companies are happy about the idea of you driving their cars across international borders—even within the Schengen Area.

And then there’s traffic of course.

I do love driving around Europe though. It’s really the only option if you want to explore a place. Our time in Tuscany, for example, we needed a car. And getting out of Paris to see more of France, a hire car is essential.

Travelling through Europe by train

We’ve always enjoyed train journeys in foreign countries ever since we found it was the best way to get from Milan to Lake Como.

There’s a certain romance to it that doesn’t exist on the road and has diminished so much from flying.

Plus it’s better for the environment, it’s usually cheaper, you don’t need to worry as much about luggage—though lugging lots of bags through busy stations is never fun. And best of all, most main stations in European cities pop you out right in the middle of town. No need for shuttle buses, tricky transfers or dodgy taxis.

If you do find yourself travelling through Europe by train but you don’t want to drag all your luggage around with you, the good news is there will always be somewhere to leave your luggage. This saves you lugging it the whole way through the city while you are sightseeing.

Check out radical storage to see if there are any by your chosen destination.

Recently, we flew in to Frankfurt from Australia then caught a train in our own private first class carriage to Vienna for €140. Yes, it took longer than flying—it was about an eight-hour trip—but we saw so much more than the tops of clouds.

From Vienna, we took a two-and-a-half-hour train to Budapest, which cost just €19 for the two of us. Also, flights out of Budapest to the UK—our next destination—were cheaper than pretty much anywhere else in Europe.

One other presiding factor that makes train journeys through Europe so attractive is just how reliable they are. And though they may not be quite as punctual as, say, Japanese trains, but they’re not bad; but they’ll always turn up.

As you can guess, we’re big fans of train journeys—though if you want a real train traveller, check out this guy’s YouTube channel.

But holistically, the best way to do it is to mix it up.

We saw so much more of Puglia when when we visited Italy in 2017 because we used all three modes and it’s what we’ll do again for sure.

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One thing that strikes you when you arrive in Japan is the weird diametric sense of time you get here.

On one hand, there’s the ultra-modern high-tech non-stop vibrance, the bright lights, high-speed trains and excitement of Japan. But on the other hand, there’s a beautifully quaint old-world feel to the country.

And they work perfectly together.

On the busiest broadest neon-lit Tokyo street, there’ll be a dimly-lit cosy izakaya or a little ryokan with a dark-wood entrance and moss-clad shrine.

Or as you board the bullet-speed Shinkansen train, you can pick up a traditional bento from the station to munch on as you ride across the country, tilting round bends at 320km/h.

Meanwhile, in little towns barely on the map, an ancient sushi bar will have touchscreen menus and high-speed wifi.

It’s an anachronism that makes sense.

3 things you need when you arrive in Japan

Perhaps the best thing about Japan is just how accommodating the country is. Things are organised to make life easier.

As long as you know the system and the tricks, you’re sorted.

These three things will make your life so much easier as you explore this truly amazing country.

Rail passes

Japan’s rail network is incredible. It’s so comprehensive. It will take you to the furthest points on the map from river valley onsen towns to mountain peaks in the ski fields.

These passes are only available to foreign-passport holders, so it’s a purely tourism-driven programme.

National Rail Passes

Having a JR Rail Pass is easily your best bet.

It includes trains right across the country, as well as Shinkansen and a couple of ferries.

Often buying tickets for each train journey is confusing, stressful, fiddly and complicated. As well as more expensive, but this Rail Pass covers you for your whole trip.

Buy your rail pass here.

Regional Rail Passes

If you only want to travel in a specific region or prefecture, buying a JR Regional Rail Pass is way cheaper. You just select the area you want to travel in, pick how long you want your pass to last for and pay.

You can even drill down deeper and choose smaller areas within the six main regions to save more money.

The only downside to this type of pass is if you go beyond the region you’ve paid for, you need to get a different ticket.

Or you can drive. Here are our tips on driving in Japan.

Buy your JR Regional Rail Passes here.

High-speed internet in your pocket with portable wifi

Having access to the internet when we’re in an overseas destination is a must, but finding a shop and working out the best price for a sim card and data prices is one of the least fun things to do on holiday.

This pocket wifi device gives you unlimited internet across Japan, allows 10 people to use it at the same time and gives up to 187.5mbps.

All you do is book your wifi rental here then pick it up at the airport of your choice. It’s so simple and way cheaper than most in-shop deals.

You can rent a pocket wifi on its own or include it with your JR Rail Pass tickets.

Peace of mind with an airport meet & greet

I remember the first time we arrived at Tokyo’s Narita Airport like it was yesterday – it was actually about 12 years ago! We didn’t know where to go, we didn’t know how to buy train tickets or get into the city.

It was only the charity and grace of a complete stranger that we managed to find the right platform and transfer to Shinjuku.

The JR Rail Meet & Greet service gives you total peace of mind and takes the stress out of those first few moments in Japan – and they’re so formative when you’re on holiday.

On our last trip to Japan, we arrived at Narita in Tokyo, heading south to Okinawa. We thought it would be pretty straight forward but it turns out it was really complicated, with a transfer across the city to Tokyo’s other airport.

If only we’d had a Meet & Greet!

You can book your Meet & Greet here.

A local meets you at arrivals, helps with your rail passes, wifi collection and your onward journey.

It means you can focus on enjoying every minute of your time in this extraordinary travel destination.

For more of our stories about Japan and what we’ve discovered on our time here, check out our library of stories on Japan here.

This story includes affiliate links that will not affect you or change the price. But we’ll get a little bit of money if you buy anything.

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It’s been an incredible trip to the States, but like all good things, it is coming to an end. For the last leg of this journey, we’re back in sunny San Diego to see our friends and to get one last good hit of Mexican food before we head back to Sydney.

Our time in the States has been so good, starting with our landing in LA and living it up for the first couple of days. Then we flew to Kansas City, Missouri for a barbecue frenzy and some true MidWest hospitality.

Then we travelled to Chicago to explore more of the Windy City and hit some of the best bits of my favourite city.

We don’t have long in San Diego, but as usual, we pack it in. We’ve been here many times before and love the laid-back vibe, perfect weather, awesome food and of course hanging out with our mates who moved here years ago.

This trip to SD, we explore a new hotel, check out Little Italy’s farmers’ market, and some breweries and restaurants, then catch the Surfliner train up the coast to LAX and the beautiful Polaris Business Class Lounge that United Airlines has opened.

We hope you enjoy this Edition.

Cheers – Jim & Christina xx

It’s wonderful to be back in San Diego. And seeing our friends, who moved here about 11 years ago, always makes our time in this beautiful city even better.

We’ve been here plenty of times but it never gets boring. There’s nothing quite like seeing these iconic palms that line the roads here.

We’re staying in a hotel close to our friends’ place – the Handlery Hotel San Diego.

Set back from the freeway far enough not get noise yet close enough to be convenient, and next to a golf course to assure peace from neighbours, the Handlery is well located for a peaceful stay close to the city and many of the major places to see.

The bar and dining area, which is also the breakfast buffet, is comfortable and there’s a lot of parking. If you’re into your golf, there’s even a course right next door.

Part motel part hotel hacienda, the Handlery Hotel San Diego is a somewhat eclectic yet old-school accommodation.

Set on two levels surrounding a lagoon pool with its separate jacuzzi, the rooms facing inward are treated to the Handlery’s best feature.

Our ground-floor room was just a moment’s walk to the pool’s edge, shaded by palm trees, typical of the ‘40s style California motel you see in places like the Ace in Palm Springs, the Standard in West Hollywood, and closer to home in hotels like Halcyon House in northern New South Wales and of course Bannisters in Mollymook, NSW.

Guests tend to make a beeline for the spa and this side of the pool though, so if your room is on this side, expect to be part of everyone’s conversation whether you like it or not.

The hotel is also home to a car rental company with perhaps the lowest prices in the city. There’s even a ticket office where you can sort out music and sporting events, zoo tickets and even helicopter rides.

There’s something about a place that works with what it’s got. And although the rooms might be a little small by modern standards, the bathrooms and styling dated, the Handlery San Diego feels… wholesome. And if you’re looking for attention to detail and facilities, this place is all yours.

USB ports are throughout each room (even on the bedside alarm clock as well as in the wall), mouthwash and toothbrushes in the bathroom and a coffee machine in the minibar.

Guests tend to make a beeline for the spa and this side of the pool though, so if your room is on this side, expect to be part of everyone’s conversation.

It’s clear to see the hotel’s worked hard in the accessibility stakes too. Easy-access ground floor rooms, plenty of grip bars, easy-incline ramps, and even remote winch access chairs to life people in and out of the pool and spa.

We’ve put together this short walkthrough video of the Handlery Hotel San Diego to give you a better idea what it’s like.

We make our way into San Diego’s Little Italy. This suburb has grown so much since we were last here. It was already popular, but now the vibe is young and lively with so many more places for entertainment lining the streets.

It used to be just the occasional bar or restaurant scattered around. Now they’re everywhere. It’s great.

But today, the streets around Little Italy are even busier – the farmers’ market is in town. Taking over much of India Street, the market has an amazing range of food and goods for sale.

We take our time and wander through, looking at everything.

The fruit here looks so good and is well-priced too, but it’s the Mozambican piri piri chicken we go for. Since our trip to South Africa showed us the light of this delicious dish, we’re always on the lookout for it.

There’s also an Indian stall here selling the biggest samosa we’ve ever seen. We share one between us – it’s the size of my head – and realise we probably should have saved some space for other things. We’re too full to try anything else now!

It’s time for refreshments, so we head to Ballast Point Brewing. This brewery is a San Diego staple and sells every one of its beers from this city ‘cellar door’.

Christina has a four-beer flight where you get to choose small glasses of four different beers. They’re all good, but the Hellesbock is standout for her.

I go all out with a pint of Manta Ray Double IPA. It’s fresh, delicious and strong (8.5% and an IBU of 70). A highly recommended brew if you’re into your modern-style IPAs.

But then we go a few doors down to Bolt Brewery and things really step up a notch.

We sit at the bar and go through a few of their beers but easily the stand-out of the day – perhaps of the whole trip is Bolt’s OG IPA (7.3% and 71 IBU) – the quintessential West Coast IPA. It’s just a good job I don’t live nearer this place!

They also have a burger here called the Double Double Double – making it double of everything – patties, cheese and bacon. It comes out the size of a bowling ball! I’m tempted but just can’t do it. That samosa from earlier still has me in its clutches.

We make our way down to the waterfront near Little Italy and check out the San Diego Maritime Museum here. It’s pretty cool – there are lots of old naval vessels moored here, even tall ships and a couple of military submarines.

This is a part of San Diego we haven’t seen before. It’s well worth a visit.

The pool at the Handlery – especially when there’s no one else around – is absolute bliss. And with the autumn weather here in San Diego delivering that perfect warmth only Southern California can, putting your feet up with a good book is sheer bliss.

Before long though, other guests spot the opportunity for some sun and sequestrate the peace while they splash around in the spa and play music on their portable speaker. It’s a shame, but it’s probably time to get moving anyway.

Between breweries and catching up with our friends, we sneak off to one of our old haunts – Fiesta Cantina in Hillcrest. The margaritas they make here are great and the people-watching is off the charts. We also get to watch an artist work on his rainbow flag mural – the insignia of the neighbourhood.

On the way to our friends, we also pop into another of our favourite places La Posta de Acapulco – a 24-hour taco and burrito shack on 3rd Avenue.

The tacos here are huge and absolutely delicious… though the machito burrito here is incredible!

This evening, we’re with our friend out in Little Italy to check out the nightlife of this super cool suburb.

Our first stop is at Nolita Hall – unsurprisingly in the northern part of Little Italy. This bar is very cool and has a kind of beer hall feel.

And because it’s right under the flight path of the planes landing in nearby SD Airport, there’s even an old school scheduling sign that changes with the details of each flight going overhead. There are also a few funny ‘dad jokes’ up there for good measure.

We opt for a a snack while we drink and chat. The pizzas here at Nolita are well worth having a go at.

The margarita is excellent, but the surprising winner is the kale, olive and artichoke pizza. Really very tasty!

Our next stop is at the very sleek Kettner Exchange. It’s in a beautiful old building and has a stunning rooftop bar and on the floor below is a more traditional style American restaurant.

Christina and I share a Pig Mac – twin pork burgers with Big Mac trimmings in bao bun. It’s absolutely delicious!

This is such a coo bar. We could easily spend all evening here.

Our final day in the USA has come and we make our way reluctantly to the train station down town – Santa Fe.

I’m busy loitering on the station platform – against the rules the signage suggests – while we wait for our train. We’re quite excited about this train journey though.

It’s the Surfliner train that runs up and down the west coast and is a good option for avoiding the traffic between San Diego and LA.

We’ve also paid for the business class upgrade, which means you’re guaranteed a seat – not a luxury you can count on if you’re in the regular carriage.

The ticket also comes with a glass of wine and snack box. We’re impressed to find everything in the box is actually delicious too.

You can see why this route is called the Surfliner. The tracks run right alongside the coast and in places it feels like you’re on the sand.

It’s not all like this though and eventually, the tracks come further inland. But a large part of the train ride is accompanied by wonderful views like this.

Our top tips for this trip is to get on at San Diego’s Santa Fe Station, which is the start of the journey – giving you first choice of the seats. And also ask which direction the train is travelling in when you get on and sit on the left side of the train, closest to the ocean views.

Also, if you like beer, it’s worth heading down to the cafe car mid-journey and grabbing a beer. They sell enormous cans of really good IPA here for a very reasonable price.

Bear in mind, the train (currently) stops at Union Station in LA, so you still have to find your own way to LAX from there. There is a bus transfer called the Flyaway service that’s good value, comfortable and quick.

We finally arrive at LAX, check in and head to the lounge. United Airlines has the whole of Terminal 7 at LAX and their Polaris Business Lounge is absolutely stunning.

We’ll be giving you more info on this lounge soon, but here’s a snippet.

The bar at the United Polaris Lounge is superbly stocked, with great wine, beer and spirits on offer. We’re impressed with local and domestic craft whiskeys and gins available, and even some top-shelf Japanese whisky and my favourite scotch on pour.

I wish we’d got here earlier!

The staff here can also make you a wonderful cocktail to order as well, and of course there are soft drinks, tea and coffee available.

We start things off with a glass of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne before heading to the lounge’s restaurant for dinner. The whole experience at the Polaris Lounge LAX is extraordinary. A good way to start the long flight home.

Check out our review of the lounge here.

But to be honest, it’s not too much of a hardship flying for 14 hours back to Sydney when you’re in the front of the plane.

United Airline’s Polaris Business Class flatbed seats turn into incredibly comfortable beds, the pyjamas they give you and the duvet turn the whole long-haul thing into a truly relaxing experience.

In the morning, just before we come in to land, a breakfast of fresh fruit, yoghurt and cereal with a cheeky pastry on the side gets us back in the right timezone.

We’re in a holding pattern for a while waiting Sydney Airport to find us space on the runway. And for the first time ever, we’re hoping the delay will go on just a little longer.

Read our experiences flying Business with United here.

It’s been yet another whirlwind trip for us, but it’s been amazing all the same. America is such a wonderful travel destination.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this Edition.

Cheers – Jim & Christina xx

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Puglia is a place of elegant baroque white-walled cities and enchanting fishing villages. It’s a place of sweeping landscapes, ancient olive groves and towering clifftops above sparkling blue seas.

But these tantalising sights aren’t the only factors that makes Puglia a traveller’s paradise. This region, which covers the entire stiletto heal of Italy’s boot, is surprisingly easy to get to and to explore.

From airport hubs and popular ferry routes to well-maintained roads and a good rail network, this quiet corner of the country has so many options for inquisitive travellers. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about it is that Puglia has only recently become in vogue with the travel community, and a place everyone wants to visit now.

The question is, what’s the best way to see Puglia? Here are our tips for reaching Puglia, where to go and how to get around.

How to travel around Puglia, Italy

Reaching Puglia

With its two major airport hubs of Bari and Brindisi, Puglia is so easy to get to from anywhere in Europe. And I mean anywhere. We even found direct flights between Stockholm and Bari, which is pretty much the furthest route in Europe you can find.

It is possible to reach Puglia by land, but only if you’re already in Italy. Puglia is close to other southern regions in Italy, but even from Rome, you’re better off catching a quick domestic flight to Bari or Brindisi.

Because Italy sticks out into the Mediterranean and, more specifically, Puglia pokes into the Ionian and Adriatic Seas, it’s possible to arrive by boat. Ferries from Brindisi go to and from ports in Greece, Croatia, Albania and Montenegro regularly.

Trains

From Bari, travelling down the east coast of the region is easy and well worth it. Three stops south of Bari is the stunning town of Polignano a Maré. Famous for its Redbull Cliff Dive venue, the coast and pebbly beach of this town are remarkable.

One stop on from Polignano is our favourite town in Puglia – perhaps in Italy – is Monopoli. It’s a peaceful, beautiful fishing village with a little marina and sandy beach. This little seaside town really wears its heart on its sleeve and makes it hard to leave.

Past Monopoli, the train lines run down to Brindisi and all over the region. But after Brindisi (about an hour from Bari) regional trains take over. These trains are still punctual, but are less frequent.

From Brindisi, trains leave the coast and go inland. If you want to see the coast at the southern end and on the west of the peninsula, you’ll need other transport.

Is it worth hiring a car in Puglia?

There are three factors you have to consider with hiring a car in Puglia: How long are you there? What do you want to see? Are you confident behind the wheel?

If you’re only in the region for a few days to a week, you can probably get by with the trains and perhaps a bus trip out to some of the other towns in the countryside. It would be very easy to spend a week just in Monopoli.

If you’re here for more than a week or if you’re like us and you have trouble staying still, hiring a car will open up the region for you.

Of course, having a car means you can see a lot more of a place. You have your own timetable and itinerary. Exploring the furthest tip of the peninsula requires a car. Some of the beaches and cliffs down there are stunning.

Also, the eastern side of Puglia has spectacular towns like Gallipoli and Taranto, as well as the hundreds of little villages you’ll find along the way. A car is essential for reaching these parts of the region.

To be honest, driving in Puglia, compared to a lot of the other southern parts of Italy like Naples, is (relatively) easy. As long as you’re confident driving a left-hand drive manual car on the right-hand side of the road, you’ll be fine. Roads in Puglia are generally well-maintained, and the drivers are (reasonably) forgiving.

For more tips on hiring a car in Italy, check out our post here.

Trulli and how to get to Alberobello

Arguably the most iconic feature of Puglia is its trulli. These strange looking conically-roofed whitewashed buildings are scattered across the Pugliese countryside, but are most heavily concentrated in the town of Alberobello.

In fact, the whole of the hilly town centre of Alberobello, now a UNESCO Heritage site, is made up of these odd, round buildings. Many trulli are locals’ homes and some are shops. Some are even restaurants you can have dinner in.

Alberobello has its own train station, so it’s possible to visit this fascinating (yet hectically over-touristy) town with public transport. There are also coach tours to Alberobello, which fill the streets with hordes of people, seemingly all at the same time.

Having a car to visit this site is the best option in our opinion. It means you can arrive early (before lunch) to beat the coaches and the majority of the day’s visitors. Because surrounding area is full of trulli, scattered in fields and sitting by the side of the road, you’ll see lots of them as you drive to Alberobello.

But if you want to experience the trulli properly, you can spend the night in a trullo. There are trulli hotels in Alberobello, but our favourite, a bit out of town, is called Le Dieci Porti. The owners, who are local to Puglia, run this little hotel/village of trulli as a superb B&B.

You can read our full review of Le Dieci Porti here.

Is it worth travelling a lot in Puglia?

When we arrived in Puglia, we had planned on spending just a couple of days in one town then move on to Naples, perhaps down to Calabria or maybe back up to Tuscany. Instead, we re-jigged our schedule so we could spend about two weeks exploring Puglia.

After a couple of nights in Bari, we went to Monopoli, which – as I mentioned – we completely fell in love with. From Monopoli, we hired a car and drove throughout the region, visiting as many towns as we could.

There were two things that really struck us as we travelled through Puglia. Firstly, the diversity of region; from tiny towns like Monopoli to grand, baroque cities like Lecce, from stunning beaches to secluded olive groves, and from ancient history to true modernity, it’s all here.

Secondly, we were taken by how accessible all of these things are. You don’t have to dip your toe in very far to get a feel for the water in Puglia. And it’s always warm and friendly.

Depending on your time allowances and whether you enjoy spending most of your holiday on the road, travelling throughout Puglia is absolutely worth a lot of exploring.

Mind you, the next time we go there, chances are we’ll just stay in Monopoli!

The post How to travel around Puglia, Italy – trains, planes and automobiles appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Lake Como’s one of our favourite places in Italy. We rarely visit the same place twice, but we can’t stop going back to Lake Como. It’s absolutely beautiful. We get asked so many questions about it, we thought we’d share what we know.

So if you’re curious about train tickets, travel times or even where to propose on Lake Como, our ultimate Lake Como travel guide is here to help.

Our original post on how to get to Lake Como from Milan by train is perennially popular.

In fact, we get asked so many questions about Lake Como, we thought about starting our own travel agency! But instead, we’ve put all our answers here for free for you, and we hope it helps you on your travels.

Ultimate travel guide to Lake Como

We’ve structured this post as a Q&A based on some of the most popular things we’ve been asked. But if you have a question that’s not answered here, please still ask us in the comments below!

This is a long post, so here’s a menu of topics. Hit a topic and you’ll be magically transported there. Alternatively, settle in and enjoy.

1. Is it best to buy train tickets to Lake Como online before you travel or on the day?
2. What’s the best time of year to visit Lake Como?
3. How do I get from Milan Airport to Lake Como?
4. How much time should you spend in Varenna, Bellagio and Lake Como in general?
5. Is it worth a day trip to Lake Como from Milan if I’m only in Milan for 2 nights?
6. Is it better to stay in Milan or Lake Como?
7. Is Milan and Milan Centrale Station safe?
8. Where’s the best place to propose on Lake Como? I want a stunning backdrop.
9. Do the ferries on Lake Como run during the winter?
10. Are there any restaurants with a view of the lake you’d recommend?
11. Which town is best to stay in and how can we see more towns around Lake Como?
12. Is it worth hiring a car to go to Lake Como?
13. Are there any supermarkets or grocers near Lake Como for self-catering stays?
14. What if I want to travel around before and after Milan and Lake Como, what are my options?

And don’t forget, if you have a question that we don’t answer here, feel free to ask us in the comments!

1. Is it best to buy train tickets to Lake Como online before you travel or on the day?

Buy them on the day from the ticket machines at the station. There’s no difference in price – in fact some booking sites might charge you more.

The upside of pre-booking is you might have to queue for the ticket machine at the train station and you don’t have to remember to validate your pre-bought tickets.

The downside to buying ahead is that you might have to specify which train you’ll be on, which can be limiting to your travel, plus don’t forget to print out the ticket before you get to the station. The inspectors won’t always accept digital tickets and ticket offices don’t have printers.

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2. What’s the best time of year to visit Lake Como?

Peak season at Lake Como is – like the rest of Europe – July and August. It gets really quite hot there then and also very busy.

For that reason, I probably wouldn’t recommend going there then. Spring and early summer are beautiful – April, May and June are perfect. Autumn – like spring – is cooler and less busy. September and October is a lovely time to be at the lake.

Winter has its pros and cons.

Obviously it’s cold at Lake Como, especially being so close to the Alps. But it is also spectacularly beautiful and much quieter than any other time of year.

Because it’s so quiet, things tend to close. Restaurants and hotels shut for the winter and the ferry service is less frequent. As long as you don’t mind taking a hit on convenience, the tranquillity of the lake in winter would be very special.

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3. How do I get from Milan Airport to Lake Como?

There are no trains that go direct to Bellagio – only roads. And there are no direct trains between Milan Malpensa Airport and Varenna, only multiple slow, complicated local lines.

Take either a taxi or train from the airport to Milan Centrale Station. From there, you can catch a train to Varenna on Lake Como. Here are the details.

Alternatively, if you have more time, you could catch a train to Como town, which is at the south end of the lake, then a ferry can take you all the way up the lake to Bellagio.

It would be a longer train ride, Como town isn’t that nice and the ferry takes a while too. However, the views as you head north on the ferry would be excellent.

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4. How much time should you spend in Varenna, Bellagio and Lake Como in general?

Obviously as much time as possible, but that’s not very helpful, is it?

For a day trip, we took a morning train from Milan Centrale and got to Varenna at about 10am. We found that was enough time to explore a bit of Varenna.

Then at around lunchtime we took the ferry out to Bellagio. We had a beautiful lunch out on the waterfront then got the last ferry back in time for sunset over the lake, which was stunning!

We grabbed dinner in Varenna at around 8.30pm, then got a train back to Milan at around 10.30/11.00pm. It was a full day, but not a busy one. And a day that neither of us will ever forget.

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5. Is it worth a day trip to Lake Como from Milan if I’m only in Milan for 2 nights?

Good question. There’s plenty to do in both places – here’s our guide to Milan. But even with only 2 nights in Milan, I think it’d be worth taking a train out to Lake Como.

You can see the best bits of Milan like the amazing Duomo and the fashion precincts in an afternoon, then have aperitivo somewhere like this.

After breakfast the next day, go to Milan Centrale and catch the train to Lake Como from Milan. Spend lunch and early evening there, and head back to Milan that night. It’s pretty much what we did – though we didn’t really start off that early.

Trains from Centrale leave for Varenna quite regularly, then from there you can get a ferry over to Bellagio very easily. We ended up having dinner in Varenna too, but there are plenty of places in Milan to eat too.

Don’t bother with Como town itself though. Just head to Varenna or one of the other smaller towns. They’re less touristy and friendlier. Plus the lake seems to get prettier the further north you go.

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6. Is it better to stay in Milan or Lake Como?

If you can, do both. We love Milan and Lake Como, so it’s hard for us to choose.

But if you only have 1 night available, stay on Lake Como. It’s much prettier, though Como town itself isn’t up to much.

If you have 2 or more nights, stay in Milan for one of them. There are some great bars and restaurants around, and the Duomo at night is fabulous.

For the most amazing night you’ll ever have, stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the Lake Como.

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7. Is Milan and Milan Centrale Station safe?

Yes, both the city and its train and metro stations are safe, including Milan Centrale. Like any big city and major train station, there’s a risk of petty theft, but staying aware is all you need to do.

The only crooks to be aware of are the taxi drivers, who try their best to rip you off. Here’s how to cope with taxis in Italy.

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8. Where’s the best place to propose on Lake Como? I want a stunning backdrop.

The good news is you’d be hard put to find a place that doesn’t have a stunning backdrop on Lake Como.

But of everywhere in this area, I’d go with Bellagio. It’s got the name plus it’s where the two southern legs of the lake meet and you can look north from there all the way to the tops of the Swiss Alps.

Catch the ferry from Varenna to Bellagio and head north from the ferry terminal, then go up to the tip of Bellagio. There’s a little park right at the tip that would give you a bit of privacy. There’s also a little harbour wall that would be awesome too.

The view of the mountains, the lake and the little towns nestled around the shoreline is unbeatable. Just make sure you get him or her standing facing that view!

To top things off, there’s a little restaurant there called La Punta where you can stop and have a drink afterwards – believe me, you’ll need it!

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9. Do the ferries on Lake Como run during the winter?

In short, yes, they do. But the timetables change throughout the year.

The ferry service only releases the next season’s timetables a few weeks before, which isn’t very helpful for planning. Here’s a link to a PDF of the current ferry timetables. Click on ‘timetable pdf’ and choose the timetable you want.

Both the fast ferries and the regular ones run all year round, though Christmas week and certain public holidays do affect service. The only problem with visiting Lake Como in the middle of winter is that many of the shops and restaurants are closed.

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10. Are there any restaurants with a view of the lake you’d recommend?

There are so many places to enjoy a drink or meal with a fantastic view of Lake Como.

But bearing in mind this is in connection with a post about getting from Milan to Lake Como by train, we’re centring our recommendations around three mid-lake towns. Varenna, Bellagio and Tremezzo.

These towns are on three different sides of the lake – the east, the central point where the left and right smaller lakes converge, and the western side.

Varenna, the town where the train from Milan arrives, has a wealth of restaurants and bars along its shores. Il Molo, which is elevated above the path, looks out over the lake and does great pizzas. It’s also great value for the food and view.

Riva is an excellent gelateria right on the water. It doesn’t look like much but has excellent gelato.

Bellagio is home to so many restaurants and bars overlooking the lake. Off the ferry, you’ll see lots of places on the water. Some even hanging over it like La Terrazza – the restaurant of the Hotel Metropole.

Ristorante La Punta, which is out of town a bit, north of the ferry wharf, is right on the point of Bellagio and has beautiful views up towards Switzerland that very few other restaurants in Bellagio offer.

Tremezzo on the western shore has fewer options, but the most obvious and best would have to be the restaurants in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. This stunning historic hotel is a must if you have time to see this part of the lake.

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11. Which town is best to stay in and how can we see more towns around Lake Como?

If you’re travelling by train from Milan to Lake Como, you’re probably best off basing yourselves in Varenna, where the train comes in.

It’s the most connected of the towns around that part of the lake and also cheaper than Bellagio, which is very popular. AirBnB has some good options, though even the hotels here will be cheaper than Bellagio.

For real 5-star luxury though, stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the western shore.

The lake’s ferries are an affordable way to see many of the bigger towns on the shoreline. They run regularly from Varenna to Bellagio and Tremezzo, and also up further to Menaggio across the other side.

The other option we’d highly recommend is getting a private boat tour one day. Here’s our post on private boat tours on Lake Como.

You can also get a seaplane ride over the lake, which looks amazing. I’ve seen it for only about €90 pp on one site.

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12. Is it worth hiring a car to go to Lake Como?

No, I don’t think you need to get a car to explore Lake Como. In fact, I think it would probably make things more difficult.

Parking around Lake Como doesn’t look easy and the roads throughout the region are narrow once you’re out of Milan.

Both Varenna and Bellagio are only little towns. Just hop on the train, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the scenery. No need for a car.

On the other hand, we hired a car to go to Tremezzo (the hotel has valet parking thankfully) and being able to explore some of the other lakes nearby (Lugano, Maggiore, Iseo and Garda are quite close) is great. But some of the roads around Lake Como are a nightmare.

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13. Are there any supermarkets or grocers near Lake Como for self-catering stays?

No, not really.

Self-contained apartments like on AirBnB are a great way of saving money and also getting into the real life of a place.

However, towns like Varenna and Bellagio are more set up for restaurants than supermarkets, so you will probably need a car to reach that kind of shop.

On the other hand, pretty much every town in Italy has a baker’s, and a salumeria for cured meats and cheese… and everywhere sells wine and beer! That’s all you need, isn’t it?!

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14. What if I want to travel around before and after Milan and Lake Como, what are my options?

Italy is an amazing country to travel through. Its public transport and road systems are great, and every town you find has something different to offer.

With Varenna on a main train line, seeing Lake Como on a longer journey isn’t impossible.

For example, coming from Tirano on the Swiss border, visiting Venice then flying out of Milan would look something like this:

• Tirano – Varenna (1h50min train)
• Varenna – Milan (1h30min train)
• Milan – Venice – Milan (2h30min train each way)

Or for an even longer trip, how about Milan, Florence, Venice, Assisi, Rome then fly out of Milan?

• Arrive Milan, get a train down to Venice (it’s only a couple of hours and you won’t need a car when you’re there).
• From Venice, get another train to Florence, also another couple of hours.
• Pick up a car in Florence when you leave and drive to Assisi and then on to Rome. Drop your car off in Rome (you don’t want to drive in that city – it’s crazy!)
• From Rome (Roma Tiburtina) to Milan Centrale is a 2h50min train.
• Back in Milan, get the train up to Varenna as per this post and stay the night in Varenna or Bellagio – sunset over Lake Como is not to be missed.
• Train it back to Milan, spend the day exploring the city and fly home.
• Also, check out our Essential Guide to Milan here!

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Travelling by train in Europe really is a pleasure. For the most part it’s comfortable, reasonable and most importantly reliable.

To think that even somewhere as beautiful and iconic as Lake Como is so accessible by public transport is amazing. So why not make the most of it?

The post Ultimate travel guide to Lake Como appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Okinawa is Japan’s most southerly prefecture. Its string-of-pearl archipelago reaches almost within sight of the shores of Taiwan. And its ancient culture makes it as different as it is far from its mainland kin.

We love the fascinating blend of Ryokyu (Okinawa’s original name) and the wider Japanese cultures you find in here. It one of the many things that make Okinawa a wonderful travel destination.

However, getting to Okinawa isn’t necessarily the easiest thing in the world. Here are our tips for navigating your way to Okinawa and making the most of your trip to the Land of the Rising Sun.

How to get to Okinawa and why it’s worth the effort:

Direct flights to Okinawa

Flights to Japan – especially Tokyo – are becoming ever-more frequent and affordable. But flying directly to Okinawa isn’t always that easy.

If you’re in China, Korea, Thailand, Taiwan, Hong Kong or Singapore, you’ll be able to fly direct to Naha, Okinawa’s international airport (and Japan’s 7th busiest).

But if you’re coming from anywhere else in the world, you’ll have to get a connecting flight south. The good news (if you’re flying from Tokyo) is there’s a chance you’ll see Mount Fuji from your plane window!

Connecting flights to Okinawa

Of course, lots of flights and lots of flight companies leave Tokyo for Okinawa.

But here’s the problem.

There are two main airports in Tokyo – Narita International and Tokyo-Haneda International – and not all airlines use the same airport for Tokyo arrivals and Okinawa departures.

JAL for example has international flights arriving into Narita, but its connecting flights to Okinawa fly from Haneda. And it can be a 2-hour trip between airports.

Triple-check your connecting flights and flight times to make sure you know which airport you need to be in and that there’s enough time between flights if you have to reach the other airport.

If you want to make things super easy after a long flight, you can organise a concierge meet-and-greet to find you at arrivals and help you to your next flight or wherever you want to go.

Click here to go to the JR Pass site where you can book this arrivals angel.

How to get from Narita Airport to Haneda Airport

As you’d expect with Japan’s biggest city, there is a multitude of ways to travel between Narita Airport and Haneda Airport.

The best option we found, which was affordable, convenient, quick and simple, was to book seats on the Narita Limousine Bus. You can book seats in advance or simply pay when you get there.

This direct coach service takes between 60-90 minutes (depending on traffic) and costs around $30pp each way.

Uber/Taxis are another option, but they’re not cheap in Japan. In fact, a study on taxis around the world names Tokyo as the most expensive.

Trains leave Narita for the city very regularly and are affordable. However, to get to Haneda, you’ll have to change trains – possibly more than once. Not ideal when you’re lugging bags around.

If you’re planning on getting more use out of the honestly amazing train network throughout Japan, it’s really worth looking into getting a JR Pass.

You can save a lot of time and money with a National Pass – here’s a link to buy yours before you go.

Making the most of your Tokyo time

When we first arrived in Tokyo, we flew into Narita, but booked a night in a hotel near Haneda airport so we wouldn’t have to rush for our Okinawa flight the next day.

We took the Narita Limousine Bus to Haneda, checked in then hopped on a train into the city.

The Kelkyu-Kuku train goes from Haneda Airport to Higashi-Ginza Station in about 35 minutes and costs around $7 per person each way, then it’s about a 10-minute walk to the centre of Ginza and the heart of Tokyo’s shopping and cocktail bar district.

Alternatively, you can take a taxi, which is obviously much quicker.

How to take a taxi in Japan

While I’m on the subject, taking taxis in Tokyo is quite an experience. The cars themselves look quite boxy and old, but they are in fact quite modern.

But there’s a process to using taxis here.

• Always approach the taxi from the curb side, never from the traffic side.
• You won’t be able to flag taxis down in the street in Ginza. You can only catch one at a taxi stand. Other parts of the city, you’ll be able to just hail taxis in the street though.
• Don’t try to open the passenger door yourself – the doors are automatic, and the driver will open and close them for you!
• If you can’t speak enough Japanese to give directions, show the driver on a map and they’ll take you straight there. You don’t have to worry about taxis ripping you off in Japan. It’s not their style. But drivers’ English isn’t always very good.
• Taxis often don’t accept credit cards, so cash is the best option. At the end of the trip, check the metre and put the cash in the little basket at the front of the car.
• Don’t try and tip the driver. Tipping in Japan can be seen as an insult. Don’t risk it.

Of course, an easier way round it is to book an Uber.

Arriving in Okinawa

Unlike Tokyo, public transport in Okinawa isn’t great, but like Tokyo, taxis here are just as pricy. So if you want to get around easily, you’ll need to hire a car. It’s not too expensive and the rental companies will meet you at the airport to take you to the offices.

Driving in Japan – especially Okinawa – is easy and fun, though the GPS system they have there is quite strange. You often need a ‘map reference number’ to locate a place, but the people at desk of your car hire company should be able to explain it.

Here’s our story on how to hire a car in Japan and what to expect.

Okinawa is home to much of Japan’s military defence. It’s also home to a large and controversial contingent of USA military. Because of this, Okinawa’s Naha Airport hosts lots of fighter jets.

Keep your eyes peeled for them taking off and landing while you’re at the airport. It’s quite something to see.

If you’re looking for more of our stories in Japan, click here.

And for other stories on Okinawa, check out:

15 things you have to eat in Okinawa
The heart of Okinawa: Power Spots and where to find them
Where to stay in Okinawa – Okuma Resort review

It sounds like a lot of bother to get to Okinawa, doesn’t it? Well, perhaps it is, but the extra effort to get to Okinawa is definitely worth it. After all, the road less travelled is the road less worn.

And that’s certainly true of Okinawa.

The post How to get to Okinawa and why it’s worth the effort appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.