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Our first time to Milan wasn’t what you’d call ‘normal’. It was September 2013 and Christina and I were in town for Milan Fashion Week.

The place was absolute chaos.

Piazzas were packed with fashionista and paparazzi, roads were clogged with SUVs hooning the likes of Anna Wintour from one show to the next and streets were humming with a mixture of carnival excitement and irritation.

Christina — aka Hair Romance — had been sent by Schwarzkopf to cover one of the biggest events in the international Fashion Week calendar. The things we got to do and see.

Partying in palaces, staying in grand hotels, rubbing shoulders with the glitterati (yes, that includes Anna Wintour) and even sitting front row of Fashion Week catwalk shows.

Craziness.

The times we’ve been back to Milan since then have been much more ‘normal’, but calm or crazy, spending time in Milan is a wonderful experience. We’ve put together our notes from our trips over the years to bring you our Essential Guide to Milan.

Hit each heading below to skip to that section:

– How to get to Milan

– Where to stay in Milan

– Where to eat and drink

– Things to do in the city

– Milan in the winter

– Beyond Milan

How to get there

Milan one of the most connected cities in the world.

Milan Malpensa Airport is one of the busiest airports in the world. Most long-haul flights come through Rome or here.

For short-haul and budget flights, Bergamo’s Il Caravaggio International Airport offers a great value option that people regularly overlook, but a shuttle runs every half hour to central Milan — plus Bergamo is well worth looking at while you’re there. The best cappuccino I’ve ever had fyi.

If you’re already in Europe, getting the train to Milan is the perfect option. No parking or transfers, you arrive straight in the middle of the city. Milano Centrale is a major terminal with trams, buses and taxis ready to collect you when you arrive.

Where to stay in Milan

Like any major city, Milan has an enormous wealth of accommodation options. The times we’ve been here, we’ve stayed in hotels and private houses, and we’ve found the city’s northeast near Loreto to be perfect for our needs.

Loreto is superbly connected — close to Centrale but also a lot of other metro stops — and is also near plenty of bars and restaurants. It’s also at the end of the Corso Buenos Aires, one of Europe’s longest shopping streets.

For example, the hotel we stayed at here was the Unahotels Galles Hotel — you can read our full review here.

For whatever reason, accommodation in Loreto is also usually quite reasonable.

Where to eat and drink

Italians really can’t help themselves — they just can’t serve bad food. And the trick to it is you don’t have to go to the swankiest restaurant for the best meal; little local places will often out-punch their bigger, flashier (and more expensive) international competitors.

Here are some of the places we like:

Pirati Poeti

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Initially because it was close to our accommodation, but later because we loved it so much, Pirati Poeti (Pirates and Poets) became our favourite bar in Milan.

Not much more than a hole in the wall with a little covered section on the street for tables, this bar pushed out some great cocktails. But it was more about how friendly the staff were, how quickly we became locals (we were best mates with the owners by the end of the second round) and that sought-after feeling of being part of it all.

We watched a local football derby on the TV they’d angled over the street, we share tables with the locals and joined in the jokes through the evening. A great spot.

Luca & Andrea Bar

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There are plenty of bars and cafes along the canals in Milan’s southwest, but we picked Luca e Andrea’s for its friendly, simple and authentic vibe.

The dishes they serve are pretty straight forward, but generous and tasty. My cotoletta alla milanese (Milan-style schnitzel) was a bit dry, but big enough to keep me happy. Apart from a table of locals, who we were friends with by the end of the meal, we were the only customers on that winter’s evening.

During summer, I’m sure the place is packed.

Ristorante Pizzeria la Ragazza

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About as old school Italian as you can get, La Ragazza is full of the charm that Italian restaurants overseas always try to emulate, but never get quite right.

Staffed solely by older Italian men with a bit of swagger and banter, La Ragazza is the quintessential Italian dining experience — none of this being ignored, belittled or overcharged routine you get in over-touristy places.

The restaurant’s food is all on point. Enormous calzone to enormous steak Florentine, delicate entrees and tasty home-cooked desserts, and a beer, wine and spirits shelf to match, this is the real deal.

All’ Antico Vinaio sandwich shop

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There are a few of these sandwich bars scattered around the city, but the one on the outside wall of Milano Centrale Station is the OG.

These guys smash out hundreds of massive sandwiches every day. Made from fresh focaccia baked out back and brought into the shop as they’re ready, these sandwiches are so full of all the Italian deli goodies you can think of and they’re amazing.

Rivoire Oberdan

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This up-market restaurant is one of those rare places that takes itself seriously enough that it has a sense of humour about it. Eclectic, eccentric and at times just plain weird, Rivoire Oberdan on Piazza Oberdan is decorated with the strangest collections of things.

Samurai armour, French vases and Roman busts fill shelves, rose pink marble shines from the floor, and the walls and ceiling are the canvas of Sistine Chapel style classical paintings. But it’s the stuffed animals that catch the eye. Lions — even a full-size ostrich on its own little desert diorama — stand sentinel around the room.

Food here is excellent. Well-plated dishes are delivered by staff dressed as 1950s cruise liner crew, and the steak tartare is constructed at the table on a little trolley. Pretty cool.

Terrazza Aperol

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Overlooking the Duomo and easy to spot from the street with its bright orange umbrellas, this balcony bar is pricy and packed, but gives great views over the piazza.

This place had only recently opened when we were there in 2013, so ignore the prices in our write-up, but here’s our story on Terrazzo Aperol.

Il Bar

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For even better views of the Duomo, Il Bar is a glorious open-air rooftop venue at the top of the Rinascente department store (level 7).

Don’t take too much notice of the queues to get in (or should I say out) to the bar; most people are waiting to go and take photos then shove off. Ask for a table and you’ll usually be whisked past. Very VIP, darling!

Things to do in Milan

Duomo and rooftop

Europe’s biggest Gothic cathedral, the Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of the Nativity of Saint Mary — or just the Duomo to its friends, this 14th Century church is one of Italy’s most striking landmarks.

Go inside to see the statues, ceilings, pillars and saints — and also the zodiac signs in the beautiful floor, and down into the catacombs to see more saintly remains.

But it’s the rooftop that offers the most unique and interesting experiences in Milan.

You need to pay an entrance fee to go into the Duomo, but for a few extra euros, you have access to the roof. And for a couple more euros, you get to skip the narrow clambering staircases and take the elevator to the top. Much more civilised.

From the roof, you get superb views out over the city, but you also get close-ups of the spires and statues that adorn the Duomo — perspectives that you just can’t get any other way.

The intricate details of the roof really are something not to be missed.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II mall

Directly north of the Duomo, the Galleria shopping mall is a beautiful glass-topped building that has inspired many glass-roofed malls around the world including the Block Arcade in Melbourne.

Housing some of the most prestigious fashion icons (and at one point a McDonald’s!), this mall with its glass-domed atrium is almost as popular as the Duomo itself. At Christmas time, Milan erects an enormous tree in the middle.

Of course, you can come here to shop, but most people are here to admire the building itself.

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Last Supper

Within the bright Renaissance-era walls of the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie hides one of the most famous paintings in the world. Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper draws millions of visitors each year.

We’ve never been in to see this masterpiece as the ticketing system is not only complicated, requires planning and has non-negotiable arrival times that we find difficult and off-putting, it’s also very expensive.

But this link will get you one of the best skip-the-queue tours out there if you’re planning to see one of the most significant artworks in the world.

Parco Sempione, the Arco de Pace and Castello Sforzesco

Easily the biggest park in Milan, Marco Sempione is at the heart of the Centro Storico — Milan’s old town. At one end is the magnificent Arco de Pace — Milan’s triumphal arch — and at the other the stout Castello Sforzesco, a 15th Century fortress now turned museum and art gallery.

It’s free to explore the grounds of the castle, but around €5 to go inside. Artworks here include a Michelangelo and some di Vinci frescos.

The Arc de Pace frames the park and castle beautifully, and is a popular meeting place (i.e. people-watching spot).

Cimitero Monumentale

It might seem a little morbid — close to ‘dark tourism’ perhaps — but Cimitero Monumentale (the Monumental Cemetery of Milan) is amazing. Full of ever grander and more opulent mausoleums, this cemetery gives you some idea of the wealth within Milan.

You won’t find the graves of anyone particularly famous here — this isn’t Highgate or Père-Lachaise. But only the super-rich are laid to rest here. Many of the Campari family for example. But you don’t come here hunt the stars; it’s more to marvel at the sheer scale of some of these tombs.

Quadrilatero della Moda

Quadrilatero della Moda or Quad d’Oro is the high-end shopping district of the city. If you’re looking for the haute couture that Milan is famous for, you’ll find it here. The finest, most famous fashion houses have premises in the Quad d’Oro.

So get ready to either grip your wallet a bit tighter or let it fly like a bird released. There’s no middle ground!

Corso Buenos Aires

Europe’s longest shopping street, Corso Buenos Aires is full of the modern, regular ‘high street’ retail.

It’s also full of great bars and restaurants, so it’s worth exploring this 1.2km stretch and its side streets. There’s an abundance of cool, fun places to stop in at, and they tend to be more affordable than anything you find near the Duomo.

Aperitivo hour

This fascinating custom seems to have become a bit of a Covid casualty, but there are still some venues that do aperitivo hour.

For the cost of a drink, you can help yourself to the tasty morsels at the counter and you can usually go up as many times as you like. This is as well as the snacks that come with drinks at most bars. Expect pizzi, cheese, meat, fruit, olives, salads frittatas, crudités and more.

Sport in Milan

Its central location has made Milan not only centre of fashion, but also a financial and industrial one too. And let’s not forget all the tourism from sport.

With not one but two internationally renowned football teams of AC and Inter Milan in the city, as well as Bergamo’s Atalanta BC to the north, Milan’s famed San Ciro Stadium gets a good workout.

Then of course you have the Formula 1 in nearby Monza, and with the 2026 Winter Olympics also held here and across the region, sport is central to Milan’s personality.

Milan in winter

We love to travel to places — especially European cities — out of season. The crowds are smaller, the locals are calmer and you get to see the destination for what it really is. It’s like meeting a famous person when their guard’s down.

Milan in the winter can be quite cold, but not unbearable. On average, only December and January get really cold, and temperatures generally don’t dip below zero.

Pretty much everywhere is still open in the winter months in Milan, and though there are far fewer visitors, there’s still a great vibe to the city.

Check out our full write-up on Milan in winter here.

Beyond Milan

Lake Como

Lake Como is one of those special places in the world that everyone should see at least once. It’s so beautiful.

From Milan, it’s a straightforward train journey takes you from Milano Centrale to Varenna — a little town on the eastern shores of the lake — in under an hour.

Varenna is stunning and well worth exploring. Its steep streets that reach up from the lake are full of pretty shops and bars.

From here you can get a ferry across the Bellagio. Apart from being where George Clooney lives, this is the jewel in Como’s crown. From the Venetian style main street and ferry wharf with its grand hotels and over-water restaurants to the hillside hideaway bars and boutiques, Bellagio is lovely.

Down at the northern point of the town is Ristorante Punta (only open seasonally) where you can sit and enjoy the views up the lake to the mountains beyond.

On the western side of Lake Como, the ferry stops at equally beautiful town of Menaggio. Not far from here is the hotel that has our hearts. The lady of the lake, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo sits elegantly, with its private pool floating in the lake like a lily pad.

Check out our story on the Grand Hotel Tremezzo here.

Bergamo

Bergamo is a lovely little town north of Milan. Its old town — Citta Alta — sits at the top of a hill. You can drive or even walk up to it, but the funicular train is much more enjoyable.

Read our write-up about Bergamo here, where the local dish is polenta and gorgonzola, and where I discovered the best cappuccino I’ve ever had.

Parma

East of Milan is the gastronomical wonderland of Parma. Everyone here is obsessed with food, and for good reason. This is the heartland of goodies such as prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

This is the parmesan cheese and prosciutto ham tour we did while we were in Parma. Highly recommended. Our full review is here.

The Lakes (Como, Iseo, Lugano)

North of Milan are the Grandi Laghi Prealpini – the Great Pre-Alpine Lakes.

Lake Iseo is small and quiet, its main town is no more than a couple of streets, some shops and bars, and one hotel.

The island in the middle — Monte Isola — is Europe’s largest island on a lake, but that doesn’t mean much. It’s still tiny. But around its edges are some lovely little spots for a spritz or a snack.

Here’s our story on Lake Iseo.

Lake Lugano is interesting because it’s split in two by the Swiss border. Here you can eat Italian food while paying in Swiss Francs — a novel if expensive process. It’s so interesting though, to feel the difference between the Italian side and the Swiss side. You wouldn’t think it makes any difference, but it really does.

Here’s our story on five things to do at Lake Lugano and some of our favourite photos.

Apart from Lake Como and its train ride from Milan, which we’ve mentioned already, you’ll need a car to get to the other four: Lake Iseo and Lake Lugano, and Lake Maggiore and Lake Orta.

The post Fashion, Football And A Whole Lot More — Essential Guide to Milan, Italy appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Italy is one of our favourite destinations. Packed with culture, beautiful landscapes, stunning cities and of course one of the broadest spectrums of delicious food you’ll find in one country.

Christina and I have been lucky enough to see quite a bit of this wonderful country — perhaps more than most with Christina’s language skills giving us access to some of Italy’s less obvious facets. But more often than not, we’ve been here in the spring, summer or autumn.

However, we were travelling with our friends Clare and Dave when we arrived at Milano Malpensa Airport in mid-December wondering what Italy’s sartorial centre would be like in winter.

Is Milan Worth Visiting In Winter?

The short answer is ‘yes’, but I hope you’d probably already guessed that.

So perhaps the question should be ‘what’s different about Milan in the winter?’

Of course, it’s colder. In fact, because it’s quite close to the southern edge of the snow-topped Italian Alps, Milan can be freezing, though the city itself rarely gets snowed in.

Its coldest months are December and January, and — as we found — being outside without a hat or thick coat for very long isn’t a lot of fun.

The upside to being here in winter is that the crowds are usually a lot smaller, though the atmosphere is still just as lively.

Certain areas will always be busy; Milan Cathedral and its enormous piazza will still attract huge numbers of visitors, especially before Christmas as there are excellent open-air markets all around and the lights are spectacular.

However, the queues to go into the duomo itself are short and there aren’t as many people on the roof, which is well worth seeing.

Places that are less busy in Milan in winter

We were shocked at how quiet the canals in the city’s southwest were in December. Here, the little waterside bars, cafes and enoteca like Luca & Andrea Bar are empty, and you can have your choice of table.

In fact, most restaurants and bars away from many obvious tourist spots are delightfully quiet in Milan in winter. As a group of four, we never had any problems finding tables, even at conspicuous venues like Rivoire Oberdan with its crazy decor and stuffed ostriches.

Even the bar with the best views of the Duomo — Il Bar — is quiet enough to find a seat without too much effort. This place is on the rooftop of the Rinascente department store (level 7) and is so close to the Duomo you can reach out and touch it. Many come to take photos, but have a seat, a drink and a bite to eat and the place is all yours.

Our favourite bar — Pirati Poeti (Pirates and Poets) — is the exception.

This brilliant little local street-side spot would struggle to fit more than 20 people. The friendly staff somehow manage a lot more than that though, but everyone’s a local apart from us. We all squeeze in around heaters or cram our way inside up at the bar.

The beautiful parks throughout Milan are so quiet.

Yes, it’s chilly, but during the day, the sun still gives plenty of warmth and strolling through Parco Sempione — the geographic centre of Milan — with the grand Castello Sforzesco at one end and the majestic Arco della Pace at the other without hoards of tourists and hustlers mobbing you is a real delight of winter.

Similarly, the leafy Giardini Indro Montanelli in the northeast is serene. In December, there’s also a little ice rink and park for the kids, set up for Christmas.

For an interesting and somewhat unusual insight into Milanese life and history, taking an hour or two to explore the enormous Cimitero Monumentale — the Monumental Cemetery of Milan — in the city’s north is surprisingly rewarding. The mausoleums and crypts of wealthy Milan families are astounding in their scale.

What about further afield from Milan

Close to Milan, Lake Como is easy to get to by train and attracts understandably huge numbers of visitors.

Our favourite part of the lake is not the town of Como in the south, but further north where lake splits in two, where Bellagio sits.

In summer, this little lakeside town is awash with tourists, as is Varenna, the town you arrive in from the train.

In winter, there’s hardly anyone here. Granted, most of the restaurants are shut, but the ones that are still open still do a great job and you often get the choice of the best tables.

The ferry that goes between Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio on the western bank is also usually packed, but the day we were there, we had the whole top deck to ourselves.

Check out our Essential Guide to Lake Como here.

Parma and Bergamo

There are hundreds of smaller towns nearby that we can’t recommend enough. Bergamo to Milan’s north is a wonderful little spot — its ‘old town’ is high up on a hill with superb views and quaint shops and restaurants.

In summer Bergamo reasonably busy, but winter is when you really want to be here anyway. This town’s local specialty is polenta and gorgonzola! I can’t think of anything I want to eat more when it’s cold outside than hot, well-seasoned polenta with a slab of rich hearty gorgonzola cheese melting into it.

Parma, east of Milan, is a food-lover’s paradise. I mean, all of Italy is really, but Parma is famous for two things: parmesan cheese and parma ham — aka reggiano parmigiano and prosciutto di parma. You can even do a tour of where these food icons are made.

In summer, the little streets and alleys of this cute country town are surely heaving. In December, it feels like we’re the only visitors here. Even then, restaurants are packed with locals, perhaps all celebrating the lack of tourists!

The post Is It Worth Going To Milan In Winter?  appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

For the first time in a long time, we’re travelling throughout December. And in an even longer time, we’re in the northern hemisphere for Christmas!

Well, in truth, I will be in the UK for Christmas while Christina is heading home just before to be with her family. It’s going to be strange not spending the festive period together. The last time we did that was way back in 2015/6, so this will be an interesting experiment.

But while we’re away, we’ll be in beautiful Italy – specifically Parma, Milan and on the shores of Lake Como. We’ll also be exploring new parts of Suffolk on England’s far eastern side and maybe a couple of trips elsewhere too. 

We hope you enjoy this Taste of the Month!

Cheers – Jim and Christina xx

Our flight to Heathrow via Taipei was quite long – the last segment was about 16 hours – so this one from Stansted to Bergamo just north of Milan will be a breeze. Especially with incredible views of the Alps keeping us occupied. 

We’re travelling with our wonderful friends Clare and Dave, who we’ve known for 20-odd years now. We’ve travelled together before so we not only know how everyone likes to travel, but also that we all have a main focus: food and drink!

Heading to Parma is the obvious choice then. It’s famous for being one of the great food capitals of the world.

After a somewhat irritating start to our journey (I didn’t think I’d need an international driver’s licence to pick up the rental car at the airport), we settle into our new surroundings of the fascinating town of Parma.

First stop – and in fact the nearest stop – is a little streetside bar called Enoteca Tabarro. It’s a busy spot especially as it’s just the start of passeggiata (an unofficial evening event where everyone in the town goes for a stroll), but the owner still has time to come out and serve us. And lecture us on the nuances of all the natural wines he sells and to tell us that we know nothing about wine. It’s a lot of fun.

This is a great people-watching spot though, so we grin through the man-splain and take in the culture of the evening.

After a few drinks around town, we realise it’s dinner time and try to get a table at what we think is a little restaurant down a side street.

It turns out we’ve come across the Trattoria del Tribunale – an enormous eatery that’s not only big but also one of the best places to eat in town. I don’t realise at the time, but it’s on one of my many lists and a local we chat later in the trip even recommends it.

The service is impeccable, the food is sublime and the prices are surprisingly good. No wonder it’s so popular. By the time we leave, there’s a massive queue waiting for tables.

On our plate here by the way is torta fritti, a kind of fried bread pastry that’s specific to the region and one of the many local dishes you must hunt out when you’re here. It’s the perfect vehicle for prosciutto di Parma and reggiano parmigiano – both of which are made within a few miles of town.

This morning, we’re up early. One of the main squares of Parma – Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi – is quiet and the sun is just touching the top of the elegant Governor’s Palace. Today is essentially Christina’s birthday present, even though it’s still a couple of weeks away. 

We’ve booked a day at a reggiano parmigiano parmesan cheese factory and a prosciutto di Parma ham factory with ParmaLook, a local tour company that does small group trips around the area.

You can read our review of this tour here.

We start the day with a drive out to an artisanal cheese factory where they’re just about to pull out the day’s cheese. Cooking and fermenting cows’ milk overnight, the curds and whey have separated, and the cheesemaster on the left is inspecting the results.

This factory makes just five cheeses a day and they only make parmesan. It takes 550 litres of unpasteurised milk to make one wheel of parmesan, and the process is laborious and time-consuming. But my goodness, it’s worth it!

This has been Christina’s life-long dream to stand between the towering stacked shelves of a parmesan warehouse and to breathe in the heady aroma. It’s been worth the wait. 

We also get to try a few different ages of cheese. The one here has been aged for 50 months and its flavours are so intense. Nutty, sharp, spicy and peppery, it’s a taste that lasts so long on your palate.

There’s a delightful crunch to the cheese. Tiny crystals form in well-made well-aged parmesan, but they’re not salt flakes. They’re naturally occurring proteins from the milk (tyrosine and calcium lactate) that clump together as the cheese gets older.

It’s been so interesting to learn about the process of this highly-skilled industry. Each wheel has been handled so much before it gets to its maturity (we’re still waiting for that, as you can see!).

The different colours of the wheels show that they’ve been ageing for different lengths of time. The darker cheese have been here longer, and there’s no wax or covering on these cheeses. It’s just a natural rind that forms from brining and ageing. And just to confirm, yes, you can eat the rind; it’s great for soups and stews.

We also get to meet the real stars of the show: the special cows that produce all the milk for the cheese. There are 140 cows attached to this factory and they’re milked twice a day.

Only milk from the DOP specified by the government can be used and the cows must be from the area too. More than that, they have to eat only the grass grown within this Denominazione di Origine Protetta (Protected Designation of Origin). They don’t seem to mind.

Next, we’re back in the van heading to what seems to be someone’s house. But through the doors, we discover a full-on prosciutto di Parma factory!

Room after room, we learn about the whole process of producing this most desirable of Italian meats. Our guide explains how the hind legs of a specific breed of pig come here for butchering then there for the first wash, then there for drying, there for salting, back to washing, back for more salting… it’s a bewildering and enchanting method.

Finally, we move into the curing room where slatted windows, which are only open when the winds are blowing off the distant sea, allow the hams to age and develop their signature flavour.

At the end of the tour, we meet Claudio, the owner and – get this – soul worker of this facility. Now in his 80s, Claudio says he’s retired from prosciutto making, but we look around at the number of hams hanging here and we have difficulty agreeing with him.

Claudio then turns on his prosciutto slicer, a machine he inherited from his mother, and shows us just why prosciutto di Parma is the best in the world. Said to be worth over €15,000, the machine can cut slices so thin you can quite literally see through them.

As for the flavour and texture, it’s delicate and sweet with a saltiness than combines with the all-important layer of fat. The minimum depth of fat can be no less that 22mm or the ham will be rejected. 

Along with the delicious prosciutto, Claudio gives us a taste of local wine. Normally, Lambrusco – a sparkling red wine from the area – is the call of the day, but Claudio prefers a sparkling dry white wine to go with his ham. 

The sharpness and dryness of the wine cuts through the fat of the pork and brings out more of that salty sweetness in the meat. It’s hard to leave this place, but all too soon, we say goodbye to Claudio and his magnificent hams.

Back in Parma, we explore more of the pretty little streets of the town and stop for a drink a couple of places.

Aperitivo – the concept of serving little snacks with drinks, often for free – is a strong and much appreciated tradition in Milan. Parma is much the same, though their snacks really are on another level.

Everything from little pizza slices and mortadella to bowls of nuts and sandwiches adorn tables with our drinks. This golden retriever has his eye on one of everything I think!

With our new-found knowledge of two of Parma’s food crowns, we delve into another excellent dinner. It must be hard to live here and not over-eat.

The third dish here by the way – culatello tagliolini – is a dish from nearby town of Zibello: prosciutto crisped in sage butter and covered in parmesan cheese with thin ribbon pasta. It’s difficult to express just how good this is.

Our last night in Parma, we have what we all agree is the best meal of the trip. Even on the flight home, we’re still talking about Trattoria Corrieri. It’s one of those rare places that just oozes atmosphere.

The food is well-made and homely, and though it may not be worthy of any Michelin attention, it’s the feeling you get when you’re in a place that makes a great meal rather than just what’s on your plate.

This is the place to come if… no, when you visit Parma.

Charming, local, friendly and fun, Parma is yet another one of those hidden Italian treasures that wait to be discovered. It’s a dog-friendly town with fascinating bars and eateries, unique foods, and an understanding of that dolce vita Italy is so famous for. 

Also, because it’s off the usual tourist trail, it doesn’t feel like Parma’s a town that fully understands international tourism yet. It’s still raw and innocent. So get here sooner rather than later.

From the little country town of Parma, we hit the big smoke. We’re in Milan!

We do what we do best in big cities and walk until we’re hungry. It’s such a great way to find those unusual elements of a town you’re visiting. 

Lunch today is at the very peculiar Rivoire Oberdan. The food is fine – delicious actually – but it’s the decor that makes this place so strange.

Eclectic doesn’t really go far enough here. Sistine Chapel style frescos adorn the ceilings and suits of samurai armour stand on the walls. Meanwhile a stuffed ostrich stands guard in the corner and huge chandeliers dangle in kingly opulence above.

Waitstaff are, for whatever reason – perhaps none at all, dressed like ships’ stewards. It’s bonkers. We love it!

We’ve come to the south of the city to its canals. Although Christina and I have been to Milan a couple of times, this is the first time we’ve been to this bit. I think we’ve been missing out. 

However, this is once again another reason to travel off-season. I have no doubt the canals in summer would be a nightmare, thronging with masses of tourists.

The four of us explore the many canal-side restaurants looking for a good place for dinner. We finally settle on Luca & Andrea Bar. It’s quiet when we walk in but by the time my enormous (though sadly a little dry) cotoletta Milanese arrives, the restaurant’s filled up a bit.

It’s hard to know if this place would be part of the tourist trail, but tonight it’s just us and a smattering of locals, which is just the way we like it.

Clare and Dave are missing Ruby and Luna, their fur babies back in England, but the table behind us is happy to lend them one of theirs for a while. I do wonder if this would have happened if we were here in peak season. I have my doubts.

Another day of exploring sees us all the way over at the Castello Sforzesco and its lovely parklands. At its far end is this, the Arco della Pace – ‘Arch of Peace’ – Milan’s triumphal arch.

Probably Milan’s best known landmark is the duomo. This beautiful cathedral is in fact the largest and best examples of Gothic architecture, and is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world too.

We go inside to see the incredible vaulted ceilings, elegant columns and impressive floors, but what we’ve really come here for is the rooftop.

One of the best views in Milan, the rooftop of the duomo is well worth paying the extra for. And what’s even more worth it is paying for the elevator.

Though if you enjoy clambering up millions of tight stone steps with the impending dread of cascading backwards to your death (or forwards when you go back down), please ignore my last recommendation.

The only problem with being on the roof of the duomo is you can’t really see the duomo itself. Plus, there’s no bar. 

However, across the road, at the top of the Rinascente department store (level 7) is Il Bar. This open-air rooftop bar has the best views of the city and the duomo in one. Plus there’s even table service!

Today is Clare’s birthday! We’ve hopped on the train from Milan to the shores of Lake Como – you can find out how here.

We were expecting it to be blisteringly cold here with wind from the distant Alps and the lake, but in the sun it’s actually lovely. And even better, there are virtually no other tourists here. We have the passenger ferry to our selves and we enjoy the views of this incredibly stunning lake as if it’s a private cruise.

We stop off at Bellagio for lunch and somehow score the perfect table in one of the few restaurants open at this time of year (one of the hazards of off-season travel) and feast ourselves silly. Just as the sun begins to dip below the mountains, we board our train back to the city.

We’ve loved our time in Italy’s winter wonderland, and even more so to be able to do it with such good friends. The bar on the right here, where Dave and I are cheers-ing, is a cracker. PiratiPoeti (Pirates and Poets) is a wonderful local spot in the city’s northeast.

Back in the UK, we’re spending some time with my parents and brother, who has also flown over from Australia to spend some time with the family. My mum and dad live fairly close to the historic town of Bury St Edmunds in Suffolk. It’s the first time Christina and I have been here, so we take the opportunity to have a quick look round.

The Medieval ruins of the old abbey are as fascinating as the current 16th Century cathedral, and further in the town, we discover Britain’s smallest pub, the Nutshell. It’s appreciably strange inside and its locals are even stranger. It’s excellent.

It’s just 4.5m x 2m, has enough space for about eight patrons at a time and has been here since 1873. Plus there’s the corpse of a 400-year-old desiccated cat hanging above the bar; can you spot it?

Because Christina’s heading back to Australia before Christmas, Clare and Dave have decided to throw Christmas dinner early. 

Dave is a stupendously good cook and knocks up a full lamb roast with every trimming known to man.

Yes, you are correct. That’s five-hour roast lamb shoulder, roast carrots and potatoes, mashed swede, brussels sprouts, Yorkshire puddings (Dave’s from Yorkshire, so these are the real deal), and a whole cauliflower cheese! What a legend. 

Absolute nutters. Love ’em.

Christina and I have decided to drive to the little Suffolk town of Lavenham today. It’s a pretty place full of wobbly Tudor houses and is even the site of a Harry Potter movie shoot – Godrick’s Hollow was filmed here.

It also has a brilliant butcher shop and I’ve been waiting to try one of their pies for ages. The one in the photo is not this. Today the butcher’s is closed.

However, the Cock Horse pub down the road is serving lunch and we score a table. We also have to see what a AU$90 pie looks like. As it turns out, it’s bloody brilliant. And $45 per person for Christmas lunch isn’t so bad if you think about it like that.

It wouldn’t be a trip to England – or a stay with Clare and Dave – if we didn’t venture into London at least once. 

While we’re mooching around South Kensington, Clare spots this place for lunch: Ceru, turning out an excellent range of pan-southern Med food.

We decide to pop our heads round the door of the Natural History Museum. It’s been years (as in since we were all at primary school) since Clare, Dave and I have been here, and Christina’s never been inside.

We start that slow museum-paced walk through the exhibits and check out a truly brilliant photography exhibit. By the time we exit the museum, we realise we’ve been in there for hours and it’s now dark!

It’s actually pretty good timing though and we enjoy the Christmas lights in all their glory shining out from the beautiful stores along Knightsbridge.

It shows how long Christina and I have been away; we’ve forgotten just how magical London can be at Christmas.

Soon we’re feeling hungry again, so we high tail it to Chinatown. We pick a place at random and find ourselves on the second floor of the Golden Phoenix. This place has been here over 30 years and the kitchen really knows what it’s doing. 

The food and service are both outstanding and I even spot a celebrity: the comedian Lee Evans has come in after us and is sitting a couple of tables away from us. I wonder if he’ll recognise me…

With Christina back in Australia, there’s not much left for me to do but hang out with my folks. My dad’s had some health problems recently, but has just had his oncologist give him the all-clear from non-Hodgkins Lymphoma, but it’s been a tough year.

It’s lovely to spend so much time with these loonies, and Christmas dinner is just like old times, though it’s salmon en croute rather than turkey and the bubbles are all sans booze, but the people are just the same.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this month’s tasty morsel. The story of my UK trip continues next month, however, when I check out a Cambridge steakhouse and a Suffolk country manor, as well as lots of fun on my return to Sydney.

The post Parma, Milan, Como… and Bury St Edmunds appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Lake Como’s one of our favourite places in Italy. We rarely visit the same place twice, but we can’t stop going back to Lake Como. It’s absolutely beautiful. We get asked so many questions about it, we thought we’d share what we know.

So if you’re curious about train tickets, travel times or even where to propose on Lake Como, our ultimate Lake Como travel guide is here to help.

Our original post on how to get to Lake Como from Milan by train is perennially popular.

In fact, we get asked so many questions about Lake Como, we thought about starting our own travel agency! But instead, we’ve put all our answers here for free for you, and we hope it helps you on your travels.

Ultimate travel guide to Lake Como

We’ve structured this post as a Q&A based on some of the most popular things we’ve been asked. But if you have a question that’s not answered here, please still ask us in the comments below!

This is a long post, so here’s a menu of topics. Hit a topic and you’ll be magically transported there. Alternatively, settle in and enjoy.

1. Is it best to buy train tickets to Lake Como online before you travel or on the day?
2. What’s the best time of year to visit Lake Como?
3. How do I get from Milan Airport to Lake Como?
4. How much time should you spend in Varenna, Bellagio and Lake Como in general?
5. Is it worth a day trip to Lake Como from Milan if I’m only in Milan for 2 nights?
6. Is it better to stay in Milan or Lake Como?
7. Is Milan and Milan Centrale Station safe?
8. Where’s the best place to propose on Lake Como? I want a stunning backdrop.
9. Do the ferries on Lake Como run during the winter?
10. Are there any restaurants with a view of the lake you’d recommend?
11. Which town is best to stay in and how can we see more towns around Lake Como?
12. Is it worth hiring a car to go to Lake Como?
13. Are there any supermarkets or grocers near Lake Como for self-catering stays?
14. What if I want to travel around before and after Milan and Lake Como, what are my options?

And don’t forget, if you have a question that we don’t answer here, feel free to ask us in the comments!

1. Is it best to buy train tickets to Lake Como online before you travel or on the day?

Buy them on the day from the ticket machines at the station. There’s no difference in price – in fact some booking sites might charge you more.

The upside of pre-booking is you might have to queue for the ticket machine at the train station and you don’t have to remember to validate your pre-bought tickets.

The downside to buying ahead is that you might have to specify which train you’ll be on, which can be limiting to your travel, plus don’t forget to print out the ticket before you get to the station. The inspectors won’t always accept digital tickets and ticket offices don’t have printers.

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2. What’s the best time of year to visit Lake Como?

Peak season at Lake Como is – like the rest of Europe – July and August. It gets really quite hot there then and also very busy.

For that reason, I probably wouldn’t recommend going there then. Spring and early summer are beautiful – April, May and June are perfect. Autumn – like spring – is cooler and less busy. September and October is a lovely time to be at the lake.

Winter has its pros and cons.

Obviously it’s cold at Lake Como, especially being so close to the Alps. But it is also spectacularly beautiful and much quieter than any other time of year.

Because it’s so quiet, things tend to close. Restaurants and hotels shut for the winter and the ferry service is less frequent. As long as you don’t mind taking a hit on convenience, the tranquillity of the lake in winter would be very special.

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3. How do I get from Milan Airport to Lake Como?

There are no trains that go direct to Bellagio – only roads. And there are no direct trains between Milan Malpensa Airport and Varenna, only multiple slow, complicated local lines.

Take either a taxi or train from the airport to Milan Centrale Station. From there, you can catch a train to Varenna on Lake Como. Here are the details.

Alternatively, if you have more time, you could catch a train to Como town, which is at the south end of the lake, then a ferry can take you all the way up the lake to Bellagio.

It would be a longer train ride, Como town isn’t that nice and the ferry takes a while too. However, the views as you head north on the ferry would be excellent.

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4. How much time should you spend in Varenna, Bellagio and Lake Como in general?

Obviously as much time as possible, but that’s not very helpful, is it?

For a day trip, we took a morning train from Milan Centrale and got to Varenna at about 10am. We found that was enough time to explore a bit of Varenna.

Then at around lunchtime we took the ferry out to Bellagio. We had a beautiful lunch out on the waterfront then got the last ferry back in time for sunset over the lake, which was stunning!

We grabbed dinner in Varenna at around 8.30pm, then got a train back to Milan at around 10.30/11.00pm. It was a full day, but not a busy one. And a day that neither of us will ever forget.

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5. Is it worth a day trip to Lake Como from Milan if I’m only in Milan for 2 nights?

Good question. There’s plenty to do in both places – here’s our guide to Milan. But even with only 2 nights in Milan, I think it’d be worth taking a train out to Lake Como.

You can see the best bits of Milan like the amazing Duomo and the fashion precincts in an afternoon, then have aperitivo somewhere like this.

After breakfast the next day, go to Milan Centrale and catch the train to Lake Como from Milan. Spend lunch and early evening there, and head back to Milan that night. It’s pretty much what we did – though we didn’t really start off that early.

Trains from Centrale leave for Varenna quite regularly, then from there you can get a ferry over to Bellagio very easily. We ended up having dinner in Varenna too, but there are plenty of places in Milan to eat too.

Don’t bother with Como town itself though. Just head to Varenna or one of the other smaller towns. They’re less touristy and friendlier. Plus the lake seems to get prettier the further north you go.

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6. Is it better to stay in Milan or Lake Como?

If you can, do both. We love Milan and Lake Como, so it’s hard for us to choose.

But if you only have 1 night available, stay on Lake Como. It’s much prettier, though Como town itself isn’t up to much.

If you have 2 or more nights, stay in Milan for one of them. There are some great bars and restaurants around, and the Duomo at night is fabulous.

For the most amazing night you’ll ever have, stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the Lake Como.

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7. Is Milan and Milan Centrale Station safe?

Yes, both the city and its train and metro stations are safe, including Milan Centrale. Like any big city and major train station, there’s a risk of petty theft, but staying aware is all you need to do.

The only crooks to be aware of are the taxi drivers, who try their best to rip you off. Here’s how to cope with taxis in Italy.

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8. Where’s the best place to propose on Lake Como? I want a stunning backdrop.

The good news is you’d be hard put to find a place that doesn’t have a stunning backdrop on Lake Como.

But of everywhere in this area, I’d go with Bellagio. It’s got the name plus it’s where the two southern legs of the lake meet and you can look north from there all the way to the tops of the Swiss Alps.

Catch the ferry from Varenna to Bellagio and head north from the ferry terminal, then go up to the tip of Bellagio. There’s a little park right at the tip that would give you a bit of privacy. There’s also a little harbour wall that would be awesome too.

The view of the mountains, the lake and the little towns nestled around the shoreline is unbeatable. Just make sure you get him or her standing facing that view!

To top things off, there’s a little restaurant there called La Punta where you can stop and have a drink afterwards – believe me, you’ll need it!

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9. Do the ferries on Lake Como run during the winter?

In short, yes, they do. But the timetables change throughout the year.

The ferry service only releases the next season’s timetables a few weeks before, which isn’t very helpful for planning. Here’s a link to a PDF of the current ferry timetables. Click on ‘timetable pdf’ and choose the timetable you want.

Both the fast ferries and the regular ones run all year round, though Christmas week and certain public holidays do affect service. The only problem with visiting Lake Como in the middle of winter is that many of the shops and restaurants are closed.

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10. Are there any restaurants with a view of the lake you’d recommend?

There are so many places to enjoy a drink or meal with a fantastic view of Lake Como.

But bearing in mind this is in connection with a post about getting from Milan to Lake Como by train, we’re centring our recommendations around three mid-lake towns. Varenna, Bellagio and Tremezzo.

These towns are on three different sides of the lake – the east, the central point where the left and right smaller lakes converge, and the western side.

Varenna, the town where the train from Milan arrives, has a wealth of restaurants and bars along its shores. Il Molo, which is elevated above the path, looks out over the lake and does great pizzas. It’s also great value for the food and view.

Riva is an excellent gelateria right on the water. It doesn’t look like much but has excellent gelato.

Bellagio is home to so many restaurants and bars overlooking the lake. Off the ferry, you’ll see lots of places on the water. Some even hanging over it like La Terrazza – the restaurant of the Hotel Metropole.

Ristorante La Punta, which is out of town a bit, north of the ferry wharf, is right on the point of Bellagio and has beautiful views up towards Switzerland that very few other restaurants in Bellagio offer.

Tremezzo on the western shore has fewer options, but the most obvious and best would have to be the restaurants in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. This stunning historic hotel is a must if you have time to see this part of the lake.

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11. Which town is best to stay in and how can we see more towns around Lake Como?

If you’re travelling by train from Milan to Lake Como, you’re probably best off basing yourselves in Varenna, where the train comes in.

It’s the most connected of the towns around that part of the lake and also cheaper than Bellagio, which is very popular. AirBnB has some good options, though even the hotels here will be cheaper than Bellagio.

For real 5-star luxury though, stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the western shore.

The lake’s ferries are an affordable way to see many of the bigger towns on the shoreline. They run regularly from Varenna to Bellagio and Tremezzo, and also up further to Menaggio across the other side.

The other option we’d highly recommend is getting a private boat tour one day. Here’s our post on private boat tours on Lake Como.

You can also get a seaplane ride over the lake, which looks amazing. I’ve seen it for only about €90 pp on one site.

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12. Is it worth hiring a car to go to Lake Como?

No, I don’t think you need to get a car to explore Lake Como. In fact, I think it would probably make things more difficult.

Parking around Lake Como doesn’t look easy and the roads throughout the region are narrow once you’re out of Milan.

Both Varenna and Bellagio are only little towns. Just hop on the train, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the scenery. No need for a car.

On the other hand, we hired a car to go to Tremezzo (the hotel has valet parking thankfully) and being able to explore some of the other lakes nearby (Lugano, Maggiore, Iseo and Garda are quite close) is great. But some of the roads around Lake Como are a nightmare.

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13. Are there any supermarkets or grocers near Lake Como for self-catering stays?

No, not really.

Self-contained apartments like on AirBnB are a great way of saving money and also getting into the real life of a place.

However, towns like Varenna and Bellagio are more set up for restaurants than supermarkets, so you will probably need a car to reach that kind of shop.

On the other hand, pretty much every town in Italy has a baker’s, and a salumeria for cured meats and cheese… and everywhere sells wine and beer! That’s all you need, isn’t it?!

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14. What if I want to travel around before and after Milan and Lake Como, what are my options?

Italy is an amazing country to travel through. Its public transport and road systems are great, and every town you find has something different to offer.

With Varenna on a main train line, seeing Lake Como on a longer journey isn’t impossible.

For example, coming from Tirano on the Swiss border, visiting Venice then flying out of Milan would look something like this:

• Tirano – Varenna (1h50min train)
• Varenna – Milan (1h30min train)
• Milan – Venice – Milan (2h30min train each way)

Or for an even longer trip, how about Milan, Florence, Venice, Assisi, Rome then fly out of Milan?

• Arrive Milan, get a train down to Venice (it’s only a couple of hours and you won’t need a car when you’re there).
• From Venice, get another train to Florence, also another couple of hours.
• Pick up a car in Florence when you leave and drive to Assisi and then on to Rome. Drop your car off in Rome (you don’t want to drive in that city – it’s crazy!)
• From Rome (Roma Tiburtina) to Milan Centrale is a 2h50min train.
• Back in Milan, get the train up to Varenna as per this post and stay the night in Varenna or Bellagio – sunset over Lake Como is not to be missed.
• Train it back to Milan, spend the day exploring the city and fly home.
• Also, check out our Essential Guide to Milan here!

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Travelling by train in Europe really is a pleasure. For the most part it’s comfortable, reasonable and most importantly reliable.

To think that even somewhere as beautiful and iconic as Lake Como is so accessible by public transport is amazing. So why not make the most of it?

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If I were to ask you to name the top 3 busiest airports in Italy, would you guess Bergamo’s Orio al Serio Airport was number 3? For a city that’s virtually unknown to most travellers, it’s got a pretty busy airport.

Like the other 6 million or so annual arrivals to BGY, we recently chose to fly in to Bergamo instead of Milan’s Malpensa Airport.

But rather than following the crowd to the train out of town, we hopped in a hire car and headed into town.

What we found still confuses us now.

Bergamo – Milan’s unsung neighbour

Bergamo is a small city, about 35 minutes northeast of Milan. It’s set out in two clear sections: Città Bassa – the modern lower part of the city and Città Alta – the original old part set high up on a hill.

Città Alta

Beautiful, ancient and atmospheric, the original Bergamo is a Venetian walled city on a hilltop and dates back to 16th Century.

As you explore the narrow twisting streets of cobblestones, there’s almost an air of Tuscany about this old town of Lombardy. Churches, regal piazzas and nook-like coffee bars accentuate the setting rich in history.

Things to do in Bergamo – Città Alta

Funicular railway

There are two funicular trains that can take you up the steep hill to the historic Cittá Alta, which is a fun experience in itself. The trains are brightly coloured and full of old-world charm.

Wander the streets

Just wandering the streets of the old town is a delight. Little shops and cafés line the narrow streets. Looming churches, elegant arches and spectacular views north towards the Alps should make Bergamo so much more of a destination than its lack of reputation suggests.

The Cittadella and its museums

This big courtyard in the east of Città Alta is sometimes used as a carpark, sometimes as a marketplace. But with the natural history museum and the archaeology museum both here, there are often fun displays like this full-size dinosaur model.

Piazza Vecchia

Central to the old town, Piazza Vecchia is a beautiful square surrounded with restaurants and often activated with interesting displays and events.

From here, you can walk through to the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore and its dominating spire, Bergamo Cathedral, and the Piazza Padre Reginaldo Giuliani.

Eat at Ristorante Lalimentari

This restaurant does best what Bergamo is famous for: polenta. This fine example comes with the most extraordinary slab of gorgonzola! Just don’t ask for coffee here. The menu and prices are insane.

Cappuccino at Pasticceria Cavour

Come here for breakfast and have what we think is the best cappuccino we’ve ever had. It’s absolutely superb. Order a pastry to take away as well. It’s help-yourself, so once you’ve paid, just grab your cake from the display.

Città Bassa

Città Bassa feels a bit like Milan. Flat, wide, well-paved streets with modern buildings interspersed with original 19th Century architecture.

Traditional cafés, mixed with contemporary bars and restaurants, punctuate piazzas. There’s a lively, lived-in feel to this part of Bergamo.

Things to do in Bergamo – Città Bassa

Understanding Bergamo

Città Bassa is worth exploring to get to know Bergamo better. It’s a very spread-out part of the city, with suburbs surrounding the old town almost completely apart from the northwest, which signifies the start of the Alps.

However, there is a central city district to the sprawl of modern Bergamo. In a direct line between the train station and the south-eastern edge of Città Alta, we found some great looking shops and eateries.

Eat here!

In particular, Bù Cheese Bar, near the Piazza della Liberta, is well worth trying. Traditional dishes served with a modern mindset – but most importantly, their focus is on cheese!

Why isn’t Bergamo more popular?

So as you can see, there are plenty of reasons to stay in Bergamo once you’ve landed. But the question still remains: why don’t people stick around?

It could be simply that Bergamo is a cheaper alternative to flying in to Milan Malpensa, and visitors are really only interested in getting to Milan.

It could also be because Bergamo is very close to Monza, and so visitors for the Formula One aren’t interested in what this town has to offer when there are F1 races to watch.

Whatever the reasons, the fact is that right in the middle of everything is this little city brimming with culture, history, food and beauty.

To step off that well-trodden track is never too hard in Italy. To find a place where tourism hasn’t quite dug its claws in too deep yet. And Bergamo is the best example of just that.

If you enjoyed this story, you’ll love these:

– Top 10 things to do in Milan

– Is Milan worth visiting in winter?
– How to get to Lake Como from Milan by train
– Why you shouldn’t be afraid to visit Naples
– And our library of stories about Italy

Have you visited Bergamo? Have you ever discovered a hidden gem almost by accident when you’ve been travelling? Tell us about it in the comments below!

The post Milan’s unsung neighbour – why you should visit Bergamo appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Venice is one of those places everyone should see at least once in their lives. Its beauty, its history, its romance all add up to make it worth travelling across the other side of the world to see.

However, if you’re already in Milan, it’s only another 2 and a half hours of travel before you’re standing on the banks of the Grand Canal staring at the Ponte degli Scalzi and wondering how any of it is still standing.

Getting from Milan to Venice by train

Mrs Romance and I did this journey from Milan to Venice by train a little while ago and it turned out to be the best option by far. It’s quick, cheap and you don’t have to worry about parking.

Driving to Venice is possible, and going by coach is probably the cheapest option, but Venice’s main train station comes right into Venice proper.

There is also an airport, but this is on the eastern side of this incredible city and not as convenient as the train or road.

Milano Centrale

Milano Centrale train station is a northern Italian hub for many different journeys around the country – including going from Milan to Venice of course. For example you can go from Milan to Lake Como by train in under 2 hours from here.

You can book tickets online ahead of your trip or you can buy tickets when you’re ready to leave. Check the times for trains here on the Trenitalia website.

When you’re searching your trip, you need to look for trains from Milano Centrale to Venezia St Lucia.

Important – when you’re choosing your journey, make sure it’s direct. Some make you change trains along the way, which would be annoying with your luggage.

The train

When you get your ticket, make sure you validate it at one of the ticket validation points before you get to your platform. Every train has a ticket inspector who will check you’ve done this. It’s to stop people using their non-time specific ticket more than once.

If you have a ticket with seat allocation, you may not need to validate, but I would just in case.

The hardest part of your train journey will be resisting the temptation to hop off at Brescia or Verona or one of the pretty little towns you stop at along the way!

Venice

The train’s last stop is Venezia St Lucia, which comes out right on the Grand Canal. It took me by surprise when we came out of the station and there was Venice right in front of me. The crumbling walls and beautiful waterways of one of the world’s most intriguing cities was there at my feet.

Watch out for people offering to help you with your luggage. They’re not trying to be friendly, but they’re not trying to rob you either. They’ll carry your bags to wherever you want to go, but they will expect payment and it’s hard to convince them that you don’t want their help.

Getting around Venice

After leaving the station, you should probably buy your vaporetto pass. It’s worth buying a multi-day pass rather than single trips or single day passes – especially if you’re in Venice for longer than one night.

The vaporetto system is like a floating bus service that takes you all around the main canals of the city. It seems complicated at first, but once you get used to it, the vaporetto is a brilliant way to see a lot of Venice.

Here’s our guide to navigating the vaporetto in Venice.

Leaving Venice

When that sad moment comes for you to say goodbye to Venice, you can return to Venezia St Lucia Station to reach a huge number of places around the country. And in fact there are ferries that go from Venice to Croatia and Greece regularly.

Most of the vaporetto lines return to Ferrovia – the wharf to St Lucia Station. Once again, you can book train tickets ahead of time or buy them on the day. Just remember to validate them before you board the train.

While you’re in Venice, there are so many things to see and do it can get overwhelming. Here’s a shortlist for you of 5 things to do in Venice to get you started.

And if you’re looking for more inspiration, check out our Postcards from Venice here.

Going backwards

If you’re planning on going from Venice to Milan by train, you might want some help on things to do in Italy’s fashion capital.

Here are some of our favourite stories we’ve written about things to do in Milan. And don’t forget to save some time to visit Lake Como while you’re there. You won’t regret it. Here’s some more information on Lake Como.

And as we love talking about Italy, we’ve got lots of information about other destinations in Italy. Here’s our library of guides and stories from our time in this beautiful country.

We hope you have an amazing time in Italy – our favourite place to travel to. If you have any questions about the trip, ask us in the comments below. We’ll do our best to help.

Jim & Christina xx

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Chic fashion, busy streets, boutiques and effortless style. That’s what I think of when I hear the name ‘Milano’. However, it seems strange that Milan doesn’t have the same historic, architectural or food-based predisposition the rest of Italy wears so well.

Perhaps it isn’t quite as obvious here as it is in other Italian cities, but Milan can pull out some amazing old buildings from its wardrobe when it wants to. And food? Don’t worry. Milan’s got that covered – and has the shoes to match!

Here are our top tips for things to do in Milan.

1. Duomo – Piazza del Duomo

Milan Cathedral is one of the most important pieces of medieval architecture in the world. It’s also bloody amazing. Its enormous white walls are covered with well over 1000 marble statues, and its 100 or so spires tell of a monument that took over three centuries to build.

Inside, you’ll find the dramatic pillars of one of the world’s largest gothic cathedrals, amazing reliefs and mozaics, but also grisly remains of some of the duomo’s saints in situ under their gowns and gold death masks.

2. Duomo roof

Italian duomos and their piazzas are well known as the centre of their town and are often the tallest historic buildings too. Milan’s cathedral is no exception, so it’s well worth the €7 to go up – it’s only another €5 wisely spent to take the elevator.

From the roof you get incredible vistas over the whole city. Milan’s quite flat too, so you get pretty comprehensive views. If it’s a clear day, you can even see the mountains.

If you don’t fancy the climb and would prefer to take in the sights of the duomo roof with a spritz Aperol in your hand, head to Terrazza Aperol, just across the way in the piazza.

3. Centro Storico

From the doors of the duomo north-west as far as the Castillo Sforzesco.

This whole neighbourhood is where Milan kicks off the Blahnik stilettos and slips into its Gucci slippers of yesteryear.

Still in keeping with that refined elegance but tempered with historic grandeur, Centro Storico shows off the city’s past through its buildings, its cobbled streets, and its elegant statues and fountains.

Start at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuel II – the magnificent shopping arcade adjacent to the duomo – and wander off.

4. Quadrilatero della Moda

If you want chic, this is the place to go. Quadrilatero della Moda is the big-bucks shopping area of Milan. You’ll find all the top-end labels here, so get ready to either grip your wallet a bit tighter or let it fly like a bird released.

There’s no middle ground!

5. Corso Buenos Aires

Heading north-east from the duomo and the city centre.

A bit like London’s Oxford Street, Corso Buenos Aires is alive with foot traffic and shops. The shopping here is much more approachable than Quadrilatero della Moda with a more high-street feel.

With the likes of H&M, Zara, Beneton and Fossil, you’re almost guaranteed to find a bargain. There’s also a good range of bars and enotecas along the way. And if you’re anything like me, when it comes to shopping, frequent drinks breaks are a must.

Along this street was the hotel we stayed in. It’s pretty good and our personal accommodation recommendation: here’s our review the Best Western Hotel Galles.

6. Castello Sforzesco

North-west of the duomo city centre.

This magnificent castle is definitely worth a look. Even if you’re short of time and can only fit in a quick walk through the grounds, it’s not to be missed.

Guarded by the impressive bronze statue of Garibaldi and headed up by a beautiful fountain, the castle is flanked by round towered bastions either side of its huge entrance way. You cross a dry moat to find yourself inside the castle grounds – a four-walled garden.

You can go inside the castello for a fee.

7. Sforza Park and Arch

The other side of Castello Sforzesco is the Sforza Park.

The park is huge and is perfect for a picnic (if you agree with such things) or for a romantic stroll. It’s popular with the more active Milanese, so watch out for joggers and cyclists as you explore the grounds.

On the far side of the park from the castle is the Arco della Pace. The Arco della Pace is much like other celebratory arches you’ll find around Europe. It’s covered with beautiful allegorical and historical statues.

8. The Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Last Supper

West of the duomo and the city centre.

The masterpiece of the Last Supper by Leonardo Di Vinci is in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, a UNESCO World Heritage Listed building and a work of art in its own right.

You’ll need to book a ticket to get in and you’ll need to be there at the time on your ticket. There are guided tours, but they can be expensive.

Apart from this church and the Di Vinci within, the Duomo, and the Castella Sforzesco, there are lots of other great museums scattered around Milan.

9. Game at the San Siro Stadium

If you’re lucky enough to be in town when AC Milan are playing at home, definitely get a ticket to a game. The atmosphere in the stadium is incredible – and that’s coming from someone who was brought up with English Premiership football.

Ask the concierge at your hotel for details – they should even be able to book you some tickets. Just make sure you find out the best way to get to and from the stadium. We got a bit lost getting home!

10. Aperitivo Hour Milano style

The Milanese pride themselves on this strange pre-dinner custom but it means it is possible to eat dinner for free in Milan. For the cost of a drink, you get access to an amazing array of food at the bar of most enotecas in town.

It’s supposed to be a pre-dinner meal (only in Italy, right?!) but there’s so much food there, and no judgments! This ‘aperitivo hour’ – similar to our happy hour only food-based – usually goes from 6 or 7pm until about 9pm. Or until people stop eating.

Bonus: Lake Como

If you’ve had enough of the big city, why not take a day trip out to Lake Como, arguably one of the most spectacular places to visit in the whole country – if not Europe!

Surrounded by mountains, popular with the rich and famous (yes, George Clooney does have a house here), and only an hour out of Milan by train, it’s no wonder why the Milanese head here for their weekend breaks.

Here’s our quick guide to Como and also how to get to Como from Milan by train.

Have you ever been to Milan? What did you get up to? Where would your favourite part of Italy be? Tell us in the comments!

The post 10 top things to do in Milan, Italy appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Go to any bar in the nation’s fashion capital at around 6 or 7pm and you’ll be welcomed by a wonderful sight.

We discovered it completely by accident when we were looking for a place for dinner on our first visit to Milan.

We’d sat down in Pandenus* – a little bar on Via Tadino – for a spritz Aperol or two when we spotted the wide array of comestibles set out along the bar. Patrons were going up and helping themselves to a delicious and endless supply of olives, cheese, house-made pizzas, cous cous salads, frittatas, crudités and more.

More of our Milan travel stories here.

Check out this private lunch or dinner food crawl through Milan!

Best Milan hotel deals here.

We were totally confused by the setup and were busy daring each other to go and grab something when a waitress came up and explained the situation.

*Sadly, Pandenus no longer offers aperitivo hour, but is still a great venue for a bite to eat or a cheeky spritz.

As long as you’ve bought a drink (it doesn’t even have to be alcoholic), you’re more than welcome to go up, grab a plate and chow down. We watched amazed as the kitchen cooked up, cut up and served pizza after pizza, replenished the platters of antipasto and refilled the dips. We were astounded. And it was all delicious.

It turns out plenty of places in Milan do this to varying levels; it might be just olives and a bit of cheese or – as with Pandenus – a full spread. A lot of other places in Italy do this too – especially in the north, but it’s the Milanese who have really mastered this gastronomic stroke of genius.

Established to encourage the appetite before dinner, the Milanese traditionally have a drink before dinner: an aperitivo. The complimentary snacks that they eat with their drink are called stuzzichini or appetisers. This ‘aperitivo hour’ – similar to our happy hour only food based – usually goes from 6 or 7pm until about 9pm. Or until people stop eating.

We found we weren’t really hungry for dinner by the time we left Pandenus, but we left with the feeling we’d happened upon one of those local secrets that make travelling so much fun.

Have you ever experienced aperitivo hour? What’s the best local secret you’ve discovered whilst travelling?

Images by Mrs Romance.

The post Aperitivo Hour – A sneaky way to eat for free in Italy appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Thanks to Schwarzkopf, we were lucky to get a great room at the Best Western Galles Hotel* in Milan. The hotel exceeded our expectations, especially when we found out it used to be a 19th Century palace!

*This is no longer a Best Western hotel. It is now the Unahotels Galles Hotel, but is still a wonderful place to stay in Milan.

But let’s start from the top. The rooms. There are 198 of them and they come in five types. The Business Room, the Suite, the Pet Friendly Room (up to three people and one pet), the Superior Room, and the Classic Room, which is what we had. Check the hotel website for offers and current rates.

And for other great options of where to stay in Milan, click here!

The room was bit small maybe, but that’s Italy for you. Not quite as bad as a Paris hotel room, there was enough space for our luggage, the enormous bed, a desk and a single wardrobe. Not much else.

The bathroom’s the same with enough space for one person plus amenities… but that’s all you need, isn’t it?

The best part about our room – apart from the complimentary WiFi and a resident gecko that kept our room free of bugs  – was the built-in wall safe. Cool? No. That’s beyond cool. I mean, come one – it was hidden behind a picture in the wall! I just wish we had something valuable enough to put in there!

Unfortunately, after the 24-hour flight from Sydney we were so exhausted we didn’t take any (focused) photos of our room but we can say the hotel website pictures are very accurate. We did take pictures of the other hotel features though.

The rest of the hotel is spread out among the sprawling winding corridors of this deceptively large seven-storey renovated palace:

Basement level: gym, spa, subterranean pool and Himalayan salt spa. Oh and there’s a meeting room down here too.

Ground floor: American bar, internet café, Playstation corner and of course reception.

6th floor: restaurant and an excellent buffet breakfast. Also a mysterious smoking lounge we never found.

7th floor: access to the two beautiful rooftop terraces overlooking a lot of the city.

The hotel also has its own Metro station… kind of. Lima Station is a quick 4-stop trip from the Duomo and continues on to Milano Cadorna, which links you to the airport and other parts of Italy like Lake Como. Here’s our post about getting to Como. It’s only a short walk to Milano Centrale from the hotel, and around 25 minutes walk to the centre of the city.

One of the million or so entrances to Lima Station is directly outside the hotel’s front door. Very handy.

With the proximity of the station in mind, try to get a room as high as you can as the rumblings from the underground trains will wake you up making you think you’re late for the ample breakfast, which starts at 7am and finishes at 10am.

Hotel Galles is also a shoe’s throw away from one of the best high-street shopping stradas in Milan. Corso Buenos Aires is a big, long, wide road in the north west of the city.

It’s also a busy street, so try to get a courtyard room or one not facing the Corso.

Corso Buenos Aires’ best shopping areas are between Porta Venezia and Loreto Metro stations… so at the Hotel Galles, you’re slap bang in the middle of Credit Card Town!

Unahotels Hotel Galles Milano
Piazza Lima, 2
20124
Milan

Images by Mrs Romance.

The post Where to stay in Milan – Best Western Hotel Galles Milan appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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One of the most beautiful (and most accessible) great lakes of northern Italy, Lake Como has become a long-standing holiday destination for the wealthy Milanese. Here’s how the locals get there – especially those who can’t be bothered driving all that way!

Everything you need to know about Lake Como

What you’re reading now is information about getting to Lake Como from Milan by train, but we’ve got more!

We’ve put together all our best tips and answers to your questions in a comprehensive Q&A style story where you’ll find even more information to help you with your trip to one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Check it out here – the Ultimate Travel Guide to Lake Como

And if you’re looking for great accommodation options in Milan, click here!

How to get to Lake Como from Milan by train

There are two ways to get to Lake Como, depending on which part you wish to visit.

If you imagine the shape of Como as a giant pair of trousers, the town of Como is on the cuff of the left leg. If you want to get to Varenna, that’s on the right side where the lake’s belt loop would be. Varenna is the easiest way to get to the breathtaking town of Bellagio, in the crotch of the trousers!

To visit Varenna & Bellagio and the northern part of the lake:

Our tip is to head directly to the pearl of Lake Como – Varenna and Bellagio.

Take the train from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino.

It’s only an hour by train and costs around €13 for a return trip but you find yourself at the middle of the lake. From here, take the ferry to Bellagio (at the tip separating the two southern points of Lake Como).

You can buy tickets at Milan Centrale via the touchscreen machines or at the ticket office. You can buy return day tickets here. For the ferry, there’s a ticket office near the wharf – there’s no machine, but the people working there are friendly. Smile, say ciao and go from there!

The Varenna ferry to Bellagio costs around €9 per person return and takes around 15 minutes.

[Please check the comments at the bottom of this post – updated prices and details courtesy of John Heath – thanks John! Ed.]

If you have happened to drive to Varenna, no problems. You can still get to Bellagio. The bottom deck of the ferry is a drive-on platform. Even the emergency services use the ferry!

To visit Como town, and the southern part of the lake:

Take the train from Milano Nord Cadorna direct to Como Nord Lago. The trip takes an hour and is around €13 return. Cadorna is a city metro station so you must buy your tickets at the station just before you travel. From here you can take the ferry to visit other towns on the lake.

We headed straight for Varenna and Bellagio as we heard that Como town wasn’t as nice. We weren’t disappointed! You hop off the train at Varenna, cross the tracks and head down towards the lake shore.

The train and ferry schedules change depending on the season and the day of the week so please check before you leave. You can find the ferry timetables here.

You can pre-purchase train tickets to Varenna here up to 7 days before you go. Head to www.trenitalia.com.

Note: As commenters have said, there are some good deals to be found here.

Extra tip for Italian train travel!

Validate your train tickets before you get to the platform! There should be a little green box (usually with no sign) that you put your ticket in.

[Check comment below for updated details on this courtesy of John Heath – thanks John! Ed.]

If you don’t do this, the conductor (and there always is one) will be very grumpy with you and you’ll feel the stares of your fellow passengers boring into you!

Here are more things we’ve written about Lake Como and Milan that I bet you’ll find handy!

• The ultimate travel guide to Lake Como
• Our quick guide to Varenna and Bellagio on Lake Como
• The top 10 things to do in Milan
• A selection of our best posts about Milan

Have you been to Lake Como? Let us know what you thought of it. And if you have any questions, pop them in the comments and we’ll do our best to help. 🙂

Images by Mrs Romance.

The post How to get to Lake Como from Milan by train appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.