For the first time in a long time, we’re travelling throughout December. And in an even longer time, we’re in the northern hemisphere for Christmas!

Well, in truth, I will be in the UK for Christmas while Christina is heading home just before to be with her family. It’s going to be strange not spending the festive period together. The last time we did that was way back in 2015/6, so this will be an interesting experiment.

But while we’re away, we’ll be in beautiful Italy – specifically Parma, Milan and on the shores of Lake Como. We’ll also be exploring new parts of Suffolk on England’s far eastern side and maybe a couple of trips elsewhere too. 

We hope you enjoy this Taste of the Month!

Cheers – Jim and Christina xx

Our flight to Heathrow via Taipei was quite long – the last segment was about 16 hours – so this one from Stansted to Bergamo just north of Milan will be a breeze. Especially with incredible views of the Alps keeping us occupied. 

We’re travelling with our wonderful friends Clare and Dave, who we’ve known for 20-odd years now. We’ve travelled together before so we not only know how everyone likes to travel, but also that we all have a main focus: food and drink!

Heading to Parma is the obvious choice then. It’s famous for being one of the great food capitals of the world.

After a somewhat irritating start to our journey (I didn’t think I’d need an international driver’s licence to pick up the rental car at the airport), we settle into our new surroundings of the fascinating town of Parma.

First stop – and in fact the nearest stop – is a little streetside bar called Enoteca Tabarro. It’s a busy spot especially as it’s just the start of passeggiata (an unofficial evening event where everyone in the town goes for a stroll), but the owner still has time to come out and serve us. And lecture us on the nuances of all the natural wines he sells and to tell us that we know nothing about wine. It’s a lot of fun.

This is a great people-watching spot though, so we grin through the man-splain and take in the culture of the evening.

After a few drinks around town, we realise it’s dinner time and try to get a table at what we think is a little restaurant down a side street.

It turns out we’ve come across the Trattoria del Tribunale – an enormous eatery that’s not only big but also one of the best places to eat in town. I don’t realise at the time, but it’s on one of my many lists and a local we chat later in the trip even recommends it.

The service is impeccable, the food is sublime and the prices are surprisingly good. No wonder it’s so popular. By the time we leave, there’s a massive queue waiting for tables.

On our plate here by the way is torta fritti, a kind of fried bread pastry that’s specific to the region and one of the many local dishes you must hunt out when you’re here. It’s the perfect vehicle for prosciutto di Parma and reggiano parmigiano – both of which are made within a few miles of town.

This morning, we’re up early. One of the main squares of Parma – Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi – is quiet and the sun is just touching the top of the elegant Governor’s Palace. Today is essentially Christina’s birthday present, even though it’s still a couple of weeks away. 

We’ve booked a day at a reggiano parmigiano parmesan cheese factory and a prosciutto di Parma ham factory with ParmaLook, a local tour company that does small group trips around the area.

You can read our review of this tour here.

We start the day with a drive out to an artisanal cheese factory where they’re just about to pull out the day’s cheese. Cooking and fermenting cows’ milk overnight, the curds and whey have separated, and the cheesemaster on the left is inspecting the results.

This factory makes just five cheeses a day and they only make parmesan. It takes 550 litres of unpasteurised milk to make one wheel of parmesan, and the process is laborious and time-consuming. But my goodness, it’s worth it!

This has been Christina’s life-long dream to stand between the towering stacked shelves of a parmesan warehouse and to breathe in the heady aroma. It’s been worth the wait. 

We also get to try a few different ages of cheese. The one here has been aged for 50 months and its flavours are so intense. Nutty, sharp, spicy and peppery, it’s a taste that lasts so long on your palate.

There’s a delightful crunch to the cheese. Tiny crystals form in well-made well-aged parmesan, but they’re not salt flakes. They’re naturally occurring proteins from the milk (tyrosine and calcium lactate) that clump together as the cheese gets older.

It’s been so interesting to learn about the process of this highly-skilled industry. Each wheel has been handled so much before it gets to its maturity (we’re still waiting for that, as you can see!).

The different colours of the wheels show that they’ve been ageing for different lengths of time. The darker cheese have been here longer, and there’s no wax or covering on these cheeses. It’s just a natural rind that forms from brining and ageing. And just to confirm, yes, you can eat the rind; it’s great for soups and stews.

We also get to meet the real stars of the show: the special cows that produce all the milk for the cheese. There are 140 cows attached to this factory and they’re milked twice a day.

Only milk from the DOP specified by the government can be used and the cows must be from the area too. More than that, they have to eat only the grass grown within this Denominazione di Origine Protetta (Protected Designation of Origin). They don’t seem to mind.

Next, we’re back in the van heading to what seems to be someone’s house. But through the doors, we discover a full-on prosciutto di Parma factory!

Room after room, we learn about the whole process of producing this most desirable of Italian meats. Our guide explains how the hind legs of a specific breed of pig come here for butchering then there for the first wash, then there for drying, there for salting, back to washing, back for more salting… it’s a bewildering and enchanting method.

Finally, we move into the curing room where slatted windows, which are only open when the winds are blowing off the distant sea, allow the hams to age and develop their signature flavour.

At the end of the tour, we meet Claudio, the owner and – get this – soul worker of this facility. Now in his 80s, Claudio says he’s retired from prosciutto making, but we look around at the number of hams hanging here and we have difficulty agreeing with him.

Claudio then turns on his prosciutto slicer, a machine he inherited from his mother, and shows us just why prosciutto di Parma is the best in the world. Said to be worth over €15,000, the machine can cut slices so thin you can quite literally see through them.

As for the flavour and texture, it’s delicate and sweet with a saltiness than combines with the all-important layer of fat. The minimum depth of fat can be no less that 22mm or the ham will be rejected. 

Along with the delicious prosciutto, Claudio gives us a taste of local wine. Normally, Lambrusco – a sparkling red wine from the area – is the call of the day, but Claudio prefers a sparkling dry white wine to go with his ham. 

The sharpness and dryness of the wine cuts through the fat of the pork and brings out more of that salty sweetness in the meat. It’s hard to leave this place, but all too soon, we say goodbye to Claudio and his magnificent hams.

Back in Parma, we explore more of the pretty little streets of the town and stop for a drink a couple of places.

Aperitivo – the concept of serving little snacks with drinks, often for free – is a strong and much appreciated tradition in Milan. Parma is much the same, though their snacks really are on another level.

Everything from little pizza slices and mortadella to bowls of nuts and sandwiches adorn tables with our drinks. This golden retriever has his eye on one of everything I think!

With our new-found knowledge of two of Parma’s food crowns, we delve into another excellent dinner. It must be hard to live here and not over-eat.

The third dish here by the way – culatello tagliolini – is a dish from nearby town of Zibello: prosciutto crisped in sage butter and covered in parmesan cheese with thin ribbon pasta. It’s difficult to express just how good this is.

Our last night in Parma, we have what we all agree is the best meal of the trip. Even on the flight home, we’re still talking about Trattoria Corrieri. It’s one of those rare places that just oozes atmosphere.

The food is well-made and homely, and though it may not be worthy of any Michelin attention, it’s the feeling you get when you’re in a place that makes a great meal rather than just what’s on your plate.

This is the place to come if… no, when you visit Parma.

Charming, local, friendly and fun, Parma is yet another one of those hidden Italian treasures that wait to be discovered. It’s a dog-friendly town with fascinating bars and eateries, unique foods, and an understanding of that dolce vita Italy is so famous for. 

Also, because it’s off the usual tourist trail, it doesn’t feel like Parma’s a town that fully understands international tourism yet. It’s still raw and innocent. So get here sooner rather than later.

From the little country town of Parma, we hit the big smoke. We’re in Milan!

We do what we do best in big cities and walk until we’re hungry. It’s such a great way to find those unusual elements of a town you’re visiting. 

Lunch today is at the very peculiar Rivoire Oberdan. The food is fine – delicious actually – but it’s the decor that makes this place so strange.

Eclectic doesn’t really go far enough here. Sistine Chapel style frescos adorn the ceilings and suits of samurai armour stand on the walls. Meanwhile a stuffed ostrich stands guard in the corner and huge chandeliers dangle in kingly opulence above.

Waitstaff are, for whatever reason – perhaps none at all, dressed like ships’ stewards. It’s bonkers. We love it!

We’ve come to the south of the city to its canals. Although Christina and I have been to Milan a couple of times, this is the first time we’ve been to this bit. I think we’ve been missing out. 

However, this is once again another reason to travel off-season. I have no doubt the canals in summer would be a nightmare, thronging with masses of tourists.

The four of us explore the many canal-side restaurants looking for a good place for dinner. We finally settle on Luca & Andrea Bar. It’s quiet when we walk in but by the time my enormous (though sadly a little dry) cotoletta Milanese arrives, the restaurant’s filled up a bit.

It’s hard to know if this place would be part of the tourist trail, but tonight it’s just us and a smattering of locals, which is just the way we like it.

Clare and Dave are missing Ruby and Luna, their fur babies back in England, but the table behind us is happy to lend them one of theirs for a while. I do wonder if this would have happened if we were here in peak season. I have my doubts.

Another day of exploring sees us all the way over at the Castello Sforzesco and its lovely parklands. At its far end is this, the Arco della Pace – ‘Arch of Peace’ – Milan’s triumphal arch.

Probably Milan’s best known landmark is the duomo. This beautiful cathedral is in fact the largest and best examples of Gothic architecture, and is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world too.

We go inside to see the incredible vaulted ceilings, elegant columns and impressive floors, but what we’ve really come here for is the rooftop.

One of the best views in Milan, the rooftop of the duomo is well worth paying the extra for. And what’s even more worth it is paying for the elevator.

Though if you enjoy clambering up millions of tight stone steps with the impending dread of cascading backwards to your death (or forwards when you go back down), please ignore my last recommendation.

The only problem with being on the roof of the duomo is you can’t really see the duomo itself. Plus, there’s no bar. 

However, across the road, at the top of the Rinascente department store (level 7) is Il Bar. This open-air rooftop bar has the best views of the city and the duomo in one. Plus there’s even table service!

Today is Clare’s birthday! We’ve hopped on the train from Milan to the shores of Lake Como – you can find out how here.

We were expecting it to be blisteringly cold here with wind from the distant Alps and the lake, but in the sun it’s actually lovely. And even better, there are virtually no other tourists here. We have the passenger ferry to our selves and we enjoy the views of this incredibly stunning lake as if it’s a private cruise.

We stop off at Bellagio for lunch and somehow score the perfect table in one of the few restaurants open at this time of year (one of the hazards of off-season travel) and feast ourselves silly. Just as the sun begins to dip below the mountains, we board our train back to the city.

We’ve loved our time in Italy’s winter wonderland, and even more so to be able to do it with such good friends. The bar on the right here, where Dave and I are cheers-ing, is a cracker. PiratiPoeti (Pirates and Poets) is a wonderful local spot in the city’s northeast.

Back in the UK, we’re spending some time with my parents and brother, who has also flown over from Australia to spend some time with the family. My mum and dad live fairly close to the historic town of Bury St Edmunds in Suffolk. It’s the first time Christina and I have been here, so we take the opportunity to have a quick look round.

The Medieval ruins of the old abbey are as fascinating as the current 16th Century cathedral, and further in the town, we discover Britain’s smallest pub, the Nutshell. It’s appreciably strange inside and its locals are even stranger. It’s excellent.

It’s just 4.5m x 2m, has enough space for about eight patrons at a time and has been here since 1873. Plus there’s the corpse of a 400-year-old desiccated cat hanging above the bar; can you spot it?

Because Christina’s heading back to Australia before Christmas, Clare and Dave have decided to throw Christmas dinner early. 

Dave is a stupendously good cook and knocks up a full lamb roast with every trimming known to man.

Yes, you are correct. That’s five-hour roast lamb shoulder, roast carrots and potatoes, mashed swede, brussels sprouts, Yorkshire puddings (Dave’s from Yorkshire, so these are the real deal), and a whole cauliflower cheese! What a legend. 

Absolute nutters. Love ’em.

Christina and I have decided to drive to the little Suffolk town of Lavenham today. It’s a pretty place full of wobbly Tudor houses and is even the site of a Harry Potter movie shoot – Godrick’s Hollow was filmed here.

It also has a brilliant butcher shop and I’ve been waiting to try one of their pies for ages. The one in the photo is not this. Today the butcher’s is closed.

However, the Cock Horse pub down the road is serving lunch and we score a table. We also have to see what a AU$90 pie looks like. As it turns out, it’s bloody brilliant. And $45 per person for Christmas lunch isn’t so bad if you think about it like that.

It wouldn’t be a trip to England – or a stay with Clare and Dave – if we didn’t venture into London at least once. 

While we’re mooching around South Kensington, Clare spots this place for lunch: Ceru, turning out an excellent range of pan-southern Med food.

We decide to pop our heads round the door of the Natural History Museum. It’s been years (as in since we were all at primary school) since Clare, Dave and I have been here, and Christina’s never been inside.

We start that slow museum-paced walk through the exhibits and check out a truly brilliant photography exhibit. By the time we exit the museum, we realise we’ve been in there for hours and it’s now dark!

It’s actually pretty good timing though and we enjoy the Christmas lights in all their glory shining out from the beautiful stores along Knightsbridge.

It shows how long Christina and I have been away; we’ve forgotten just how magical London can be at Christmas.

Soon we’re feeling hungry again, so we high tail it to Chinatown. We pick a place at random and find ourselves on the second floor of the Golden Phoenix. This place has been here over 30 years and the kitchen really knows what it’s doing. 

The food and service are both outstanding and I even spot a celebrity: the comedian Lee Evans has come in after us and is sitting a couple of tables away from us. I wonder if he’ll recognise me…

With Christina back in Australia, there’s not much left for me to do but hang out with my folks. My dad’s had some health problems recently, but has just had his oncologist give him the all-clear from non-Hodgkins Lymphoma, but it’s been a tough year.

It’s lovely to spend so much time with these loonies, and Christmas dinner is just like old times, though it’s salmon en croute rather than turkey and the bubbles are all sans booze, but the people are just the same.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this month’s tasty morsel. The story of my UK trip continues next month, however, when I check out a Cambridge steakhouse and a Suffolk country manor, as well as lots of fun on my return to Sydney.

The post Parma, Milan, Como… and Bury St Edmunds appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Lake Como’s one of our favourite places in Italy. We rarely visit the same place twice, but we can’t stop going back to Lake Como. It’s absolutely beautiful. We get asked so many questions about it, we thought we’d share what we know.

So if you’re curious about train tickets, travel times or even where to propose on Lake Como, our ultimate Lake Como travel guide is here to help.

Our original post on how to get to Lake Como from Milan by train is perennially popular.

In fact, we get asked so many questions about Lake Como, we thought about starting our own travel agency! But instead, we’ve put all our answers here for free for you, and we hope it helps you on your travels.

Ultimate travel guide to Lake Como

We’ve structured this post as a Q&A based on some of the most popular things we’ve been asked. But if you have a question that’s not answered here, please still ask us in the comments below!

This is a long post, so here’s a menu of topics. Hit a topic and you’ll be magically transported there. Alternatively, settle in and enjoy.

1. Is it best to buy train tickets to Lake Como online before you travel or on the day?
2. What’s the best time of year to visit Lake Como?
3. How do I get from Milan Airport to Lake Como?
4. How much time should you spend in Varenna, Bellagio and Lake Como in general?
5. Is it worth a day trip to Lake Como from Milan if I’m only in Milan for 2 nights?
6. Is it better to stay in Milan or Lake Como?
7. Is Milan and Milan Centrale Station safe?
8. Where’s the best place to propose on Lake Como? I want a stunning backdrop.
9. Do the ferries on Lake Como run during the winter?
10. Are there any restaurants with a view of the lake you’d recommend?
11. Which town is best to stay in and how can we see more towns around Lake Como?
12. Is it worth hiring a car to go to Lake Como?
13. Are there any supermarkets or grocers near Lake Como for self-catering stays?
14. What if I want to travel around before and after Milan and Lake Como, what are my options?

And don’t forget, if you have a question that we don’t answer here, feel free to ask us in the comments!

1. Is it best to buy train tickets to Lake Como online before you travel or on the day?

Buy them on the day from the ticket machines at the station. There’s no difference in price – in fact some booking sites might charge you more.

The upside of pre-booking is you might have to queue for the ticket machine at the train station and you don’t have to remember to validate your pre-bought tickets.

The downside to buying ahead is that you might have to specify which train you’ll be on, which can be limiting to your travel, plus don’t forget to print out the ticket before you get to the station. The inspectors won’t always accept digital tickets and ticket offices don’t have printers.

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2. What’s the best time of year to visit Lake Como?

Peak season at Lake Como is – like the rest of Europe – July and August. It gets really quite hot there then and also very busy.

For that reason, I probably wouldn’t recommend going there then. Spring and early summer are beautiful – April, May and June are perfect. Autumn – like spring – is cooler and less busy. September and October is a lovely time to be at the lake.

Winter has its pros and cons.

Obviously it’s cold at Lake Como, especially being so close to the Alps. But it is also spectacularly beautiful and much quieter than any other time of year.

Because it’s so quiet, things tend to close. Restaurants and hotels shut for the winter and the ferry service is less frequent. As long as you don’t mind taking a hit on convenience, the tranquillity of the lake in winter would be very special.

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3. How do I get from Milan Airport to Lake Como?

There are no trains that go direct to Bellagio – only roads. And there are no direct trains between Milan Malpensa Airport and Varenna, only multiple slow, complicated local lines.

Take either a taxi or train from the airport to Milan Centrale Station. From there, you can catch a train to Varenna on Lake Como. Here are the details.

Alternatively, if you have more time, you could catch a train to Como town, which is at the south end of the lake, then a ferry can take you all the way up the lake to Bellagio.

It would be a longer train ride, Como town isn’t that nice and the ferry takes a while too. However, the views as you head north on the ferry would be excellent.

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4. How much time should you spend in Varenna, Bellagio and Lake Como in general?

Obviously as much time as possible, but that’s not very helpful, is it?

For a day trip, we took a morning train from Milan Centrale and got to Varenna at about 10am. We found that was enough time to explore a bit of Varenna.

Then at around lunchtime we took the ferry out to Bellagio. We had a beautiful lunch out on the waterfront then got the last ferry back in time for sunset over the lake, which was stunning!

We grabbed dinner in Varenna at around 8.30pm, then got a train back to Milan at around 10.30/11.00pm. It was a full day, but not a busy one. And a day that neither of us will ever forget.

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5. Is it worth a day trip to Lake Como from Milan if I’m only in Milan for 2 nights?

Good question. There’s plenty to do in both places – here’s our guide to Milan. But even with only 2 nights in Milan, I think it’d be worth taking a train out to Lake Como.

You can see the best bits of Milan like the amazing Duomo and the fashion precincts in an afternoon, then have aperitivo somewhere like this.

After breakfast the next day, go to Milan Centrale and catch the train to Lake Como from Milan. Spend lunch and early evening there, and head back to Milan that night. It’s pretty much what we did – though we didn’t really start off that early.

Trains from Centrale leave for Varenna quite regularly, then from there you can get a ferry over to Bellagio very easily. We ended up having dinner in Varenna too, but there are plenty of places in Milan to eat too.

Don’t bother with Como town itself though. Just head to Varenna or one of the other smaller towns. They’re less touristy and friendlier. Plus the lake seems to get prettier the further north you go.

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6. Is it better to stay in Milan or Lake Como?

If you can, do both. We love Milan and Lake Como, so it’s hard for us to choose.

But if you only have 1 night available, stay on Lake Como. It’s much prettier, though Como town itself isn’t up to much.

If you have 2 or more nights, stay in Milan for one of them. There are some great bars and restaurants around, and the Duomo at night is fabulous.

For the most amazing night you’ll ever have, stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the Lake Como.

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7. Is Milan and Milan Centrale Station safe?

Yes, both the city and its train and metro stations are safe, including Milan Centrale. Like any big city and major train station, there’s a risk of petty theft, but staying aware is all you need to do.

The only crooks to be aware of are the taxi drivers, who try their best to rip you off. Here’s how to cope with taxis in Italy.

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8. Where’s the best place to propose on Lake Como? I want a stunning backdrop.

The good news is you’d be hard put to find a place that doesn’t have a stunning backdrop on Lake Como.

But of everywhere in this area, I’d go with Bellagio. It’s got the name plus it’s where the two southern legs of the lake meet and you can look north from there all the way to the tops of the Swiss Alps.

Catch the ferry from Varenna to Bellagio and head north from the ferry terminal, then go up to the tip of Bellagio. There’s a little park right at the tip that would give you a bit of privacy. There’s also a little harbour wall that would be awesome too.

The view of the mountains, the lake and the little towns nestled around the shoreline is unbeatable. Just make sure you get him or her standing facing that view!

To top things off, there’s a little restaurant there called La Punta where you can stop and have a drink afterwards – believe me, you’ll need it!

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9. Do the ferries on Lake Como run during the winter?

In short, yes, they do. But the timetables change throughout the year.

The ferry service only releases the next season’s timetables a few weeks before, which isn’t very helpful for planning. Here’s a link to a PDF of the current ferry timetables. Click on ‘timetable pdf’ and choose the timetable you want.

Both the fast ferries and the regular ones run all year round, though Christmas week and certain public holidays do affect service. The only problem with visiting Lake Como in the middle of winter is that many of the shops and restaurants are closed.

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10. Are there any restaurants with a view of the lake you’d recommend?

There are so many places to enjoy a drink or meal with a fantastic view of Lake Como.

But bearing in mind this is in connection with a post about getting from Milan to Lake Como by train, we’re centring our recommendations around three mid-lake towns. Varenna, Bellagio and Tremezzo.

These towns are on three different sides of the lake – the east, the central point where the left and right smaller lakes converge, and the western side.

Varenna, the town where the train from Milan arrives, has a wealth of restaurants and bars along its shores. Il Molo, which is elevated above the path, looks out over the lake and does great pizzas. It’s also great value for the food and view.

Riva is an excellent gelateria right on the water. It doesn’t look like much but has excellent gelato.

Bellagio is home to so many restaurants and bars overlooking the lake. Off the ferry, you’ll see lots of places on the water. Some even hanging over it like La Terrazza – the restaurant of the Hotel Metropole.

Ristorante La Punta, which is out of town a bit, north of the ferry wharf, is right on the point of Bellagio and has beautiful views up towards Switzerland that very few other restaurants in Bellagio offer.

Tremezzo on the western shore has fewer options, but the most obvious and best would have to be the restaurants in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. This stunning historic hotel is a must if you have time to see this part of the lake.

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11. Which town is best to stay in and how can we see more towns around Lake Como?

If you’re travelling by train from Milan to Lake Como, you’re probably best off basing yourselves in Varenna, where the train comes in.

It’s the most connected of the towns around that part of the lake and also cheaper than Bellagio, which is very popular. AirBnB has some good options, though even the hotels here will be cheaper than Bellagio.

For real 5-star luxury though, stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the western shore.

The lake’s ferries are an affordable way to see many of the bigger towns on the shoreline. They run regularly from Varenna to Bellagio and Tremezzo, and also up further to Menaggio across the other side.

The other option we’d highly recommend is getting a private boat tour one day. Here’s our post on private boat tours on Lake Como.

You can also get a seaplane ride over the lake, which looks amazing. I’ve seen it for only about €90 pp on one site.

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12. Is it worth hiring a car to go to Lake Como?

No, I don’t think you need to get a car to explore Lake Como. In fact, I think it would probably make things more difficult.

Parking around Lake Como doesn’t look easy and the roads throughout the region are narrow once you’re out of Milan.

Both Varenna and Bellagio are only little towns. Just hop on the train, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the scenery. No need for a car.

On the other hand, we hired a car to go to Tremezzo (the hotel has valet parking thankfully) and being able to explore some of the other lakes nearby (Lugano, Maggiore, Iseo and Garda are quite close) is great. But some of the roads around Lake Como are a nightmare.

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13. Are there any supermarkets or grocers near Lake Como for self-catering stays?

No, not really.

Self-contained apartments like on AirBnB are a great way of saving money and also getting into the real life of a place.

However, towns like Varenna and Bellagio are more set up for restaurants than supermarkets, so you will probably need a car to reach that kind of shop.

On the other hand, pretty much every town in Italy has a baker’s, and a salumeria for cured meats and cheese… and everywhere sells wine and beer! That’s all you need, isn’t it?!

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14. What if I want to travel around before and after Milan and Lake Como, what are my options?

Italy is an amazing country to travel through. Its public transport and road systems are great, and every town you find has something different to offer.

With Varenna on a main train line, seeing Lake Como on a longer journey isn’t impossible.

For example, coming from Tirano on the Swiss border, visiting Venice then flying out of Milan would look something like this:

• Tirano – Varenna (1h50min train)
• Varenna – Milan (1h30min train)
• Milan – Venice – Milan (2h30min train each way)

Or for an even longer trip, how about Milan, Florence, Venice, Assisi, Rome then fly out of Milan?

• Arrive Milan, get a train down to Venice (it’s only a couple of hours and you won’t need a car when you’re there).
• From Venice, get another train to Florence, also another couple of hours.
• Pick up a car in Florence when you leave and drive to Assisi and then on to Rome. Drop your car off in Rome (you don’t want to drive in that city – it’s crazy!)
• From Rome (Roma Tiburtina) to Milan Centrale is a 2h50min train.
• Back in Milan, get the train up to Varenna as per this post and stay the night in Varenna or Bellagio – sunset over Lake Como is not to be missed.
• Train it back to Milan, spend the day exploring the city and fly home.
• Also, check out our Essential Guide to Milan here!

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Travelling by train in Europe really is a pleasure. For the most part it’s comfortable, reasonable and most importantly reliable.

To think that even somewhere as beautiful and iconic as Lake Como is so accessible by public transport is amazing. So why not make the most of it?

The post Ultimate travel guide to Lake Como appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Lake Como is synonymous with the romance and beauty of northern Italy. Its shorelines are scattered with warm-hearted yet glamorous towns and its waters reflecting the heart-melting scenery.

From the very first time Christina and I came to Lake Como – a lovely journey from Milan to Varenna by train – we fell in love with the place.

We were only there for a daytrip that first visit, but since then have spent more time at Lake Como. If it’s possible, we’re even more in love with the place than we were before.

Is a private boat tour on Lake Como really worth it?

If you want to really see the best parts of Lake Como, a private boat tour is the way to do it.

But let’s look at the other options quickly first:

What’s the best way to see Lake Como?

Arriving by train to Varenna is easy and cost effective. However, you’re limited by how far you can walk to what you can see. Varenna is a beautiful town, but there’s more to Lake Como than that.

Take a look at our Ultimate Guide of Lake Como for more info on this stunning spot.

Want more ideas on what you can do on Lake Como? Here are some of the best!

For the best deals on hotels around Lake Como, check this out!

Driving around Lake Como is wonderful, but the roads can be very busy and narrow at times. You’re too busy looking where you’re going (hopefully) to really take in the beautiful views.

Plus you don’t get to see some of the best parts of the lake from the shore.

For a taste of what Lake Como looks like from the water, the public ferries that criss-cross the lake offer just that. And it’s a superb service if you want to see more towns around the lake.

Private boat tours on Lake Como

We’ve wanted to go on a private boat tour on Lake Como ever since our first visit. During our stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, that travel dream came to life.

The Tremezzo has two beautiful boats – both period Venetian motor launches: Ruy, built in 1961, and Batt. These elegant wooden Riva style speedboats are exclusively available to guests of the Grand Hotel Tremezzo.

Find the best deals on the beautiful Grand Hotel Tremezzo here.

Reclining in the comfort of Ruy’s soft white leather seats with a glass of cold prosecco, we watched Lake Como’s beautiful secrets reveal themselves.

Click here to see footage from our private boat tour of Lake Como.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen Christina so happy!

From the water, you get to see the incredible shoreline of Lake Como, its towns glinting in the sun and the dramatic mountains of the Italian Alps looming in the background.

Most prominent though are the many villas that line the lake’s waterfront. These grand old palaces, holiday homes to the gentry of Italy, are icons of the lake.

You should check out our video from our stay in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which includes our footage of our time onboard Ruy.

This is where the private boat tour comes into its own. The driver will be able to get very close to the villas and tell you their fascinating glamorous history.

If you’re not staying at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, there are some other private boat tour companies on Lake Como:

Il Medeghino Lake Como Boat Tours
Taxi Boats Barindelli
Taxi Boat Varenna
Tasell
And this site shows you some price breakdowns too.

Our private boat tour on Lake Como

We had a 1-hour private boat tour in the sublime Ruy. We went as far south as Isola Comancina, then back up along the western spur of the lake to Bellagio. From this point you can see down both southern spurs of Lake Como and right up to its northern end.

The views are breathtaking.

From there we motored across to the eastern bank to see the picturesque town of Varenna up close and then it was full speed all the way back across to the west, past Villa Carlotta to the Tremezzo.

Being able to explore Lake Como by boat is very special. From the stunning villas and their expansive gardens, to other important landmarks like the abandoned Faustino Monastery and the distant Swiss border and its magnificent alpine skyline.

It’s quite a lot to fit into an hour – 2 hours would have been better – but it’s something everyone should do. It’s just magnificent and is easily one of our all-time great travel highlights.

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The sparkle and splendour of Lake Como, with its dramatic backdrop of the Alps and its grandiose villa-lined shores had never seen a hotel until 1910.

It would need to be something special – something iconic – to fit with the elegant, sophisticated glamour of such a place. Lake Como was at the time a destination only for the world’s wealthy and elite.

What happened next was very special indeed.

Signor Enea Gandola and his wife Maria, who were from Lake Como, envisaged a hotel that would suit this illustrious class of international traveller. And so the Grand Hotel Tremezzo was born.

Prior to 1910, visitors would stay in the private villas that still punctuate Lake Como’s shores like jewels. The Grand Hotel Tremezzo brought the lake’s visitors the elegance, space and privacy they were used to, but with hotel service that would complement this elegant art nouveau palace.

These days, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo still offers its 5-star service; it still upholds its old-world charm. The difference is it’s more approachable, more modern and somehow more beautiful than any of its pictures.

We’ve also created a video walk-through of the Tremezzo. You can see it here:

Click here to view our video of the GHT.

Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Lake Como

Christina and I were lucky enough to stay two nights in this truly remarkable hotel. Here’s what we found while we were there.

Arriving at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo

If ever you want to feel like a genuine film star, arrive at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo by car. They can help source a Ferrari if you like, but even in our Fiat rental we still felt pretty cool.

To get to the Tremezzo, you drive a pretty wiggly tight road around the lake’s western shore. Coming from the north would make things easier, as you can simply turn off into the valet reception.

We came in from the south and had to turn across traffic. But the staff, who man the front all day, stop traffic for you to turn in! They take your car, park it for you and before you know it, you’re being guided to the mirrored archway of the glass elevator as if they’ve been preparing for your arrival their whole lives.

The elegant lobby, with its original parquet wooden floors, opulent furniture and lofty ceilings has the impact you’d expect from a hotel of this calibre. What you’re not expecting is the personal, friendly and open service you get at reception and concierge.

The lady who checked us in also took the time to take us on a mini orientation, showing us where the bars and restaurants are, where breakfast is taken and also – most importantly – the self-service sweets station.

The Lobby

Perhaps because the Tremezzo had to compete with the lake’s villas early on, it needed to make its lobby feel more like coming into a private residence than a hotel. The reception and concierge aren’t immediately obvious when you come out of the lift.

Going against the modern pre-set of large, conspicuous the check-in and information desks front and centre, the Tremezzo’s are small, discreet and set back in an alcove away from the lobby.

The room

There are few room types available here. Ours – a Lake View Prestige room – came with a balcony that looked out over the lake towards Bellagio and the Riviera delle Azalee.

Although the room is on the small size for a hotel of this class (a common feature in Europe anyway), all the natural light and the clever layout and décor fools you into not noticing you’re only in 375sq.ft (35m²).

The short corridor to from the front door past the bathroom into the main room gives the feeling of more space, plus it hides the bathroom door a bit.

Of course, the best thing about the room is the double French doors that open out onto the balcony. The view from here is just incredible. And facing east means you can enjoy sunrise over the lake without leaving your bed.

Everything – from the ornate golden headboard over our oversize bed to the beach tote bag they provide – is beautifully branded, of high quality and carefully thought out. At all times, you’re reminded that you’re in a place of unique luxury that’s there for you to enjoy. It’s a lovely feeling!

We also had the luck of seeing the hotel’s most important historic suite: the Greta. Inspired by one of Hollywood’s finest, Greta Garbo, who loved to stay here and even mentions the hotel in The Grand Hotel (1932).

The suite is an ode to the actress and is suitably lavish. Its 860sq.ft room is only bettered by the enormous balcony that looks out over the lake from the 1st floor.

The bar and restaurants

It’s clear that the Grand Hotel Tremezzo really understands its clientele. There are so many enticing places to eat and drink in this hotel, it’s very tempting to stay in and not explore the area around you.

Is that a criticism of the Tremezzo? Possibly – but it’s a pretty good one if it is, isn’t it?

But there really is so much choice of where you can dine or drink here. La Terrazza Restaurant, which is also where you have breakfast, has incredible, unbeatable views out over the lake from its broad balcony.

One floor below La Terrazza is L’Esacale Trattoria, a beautiful stone-clad wine room, with a balcony overlooking the lake too. This is a more intimate, yet relaxed dining option, though the Tremezzo’s T Bar is probably the place to go for an even more informal experience.

T Bar, with its balcony that mirrors La Terrazza, also has a ‘50s style bar room and a wonderfully modern main room inside. The bright colours of the chairs works cleverly against the traditional bar room.

But if it’s al fresco dining you want, you need to check out the hotel’s pools.

The pools

The Grand Hotel Tremezzo has 3 pools – each more unique than the next. The most obviously striking pool, is the one we could see from our room and the one that’s almost as famous the hotel itself.

Floating in Lake Como itself is Water-On-Water. We couldn’t wait to go for a dip in this incredible pool – it featured in a previous post we published on bucket list hotel pools. The strangest thing is when a large boat goes past, the pool moves. You can feel the waves in the lake, but you’re not actually swimming in the lake itself.

This pool also has a casual dining restaurant, though the food isn’t casual. The standard is actually quite startling. There’s also a beach here, where you can sunbathe on loungers and dry off after your swim. The pool and beach are only available to hotel guests, but the restaurant here is open to all.

The second pool is behind the hotel and no less impressive. This heated pool is set amidst the flowers and trees of the garden and therefore quite sensibly called the Flowers Pool. It also a has a wood-fired pizza oven near at hand should you get peckish.

Finally, the T Spa Infinity Pool is almost a work of art. Looking out from its own balcony, the infinity pool runs for several metres until it disappears into a tunnel inside the hotel. The grotto within has three different sensory jet spas to enjoy: a horizontal jacuzzi that you can recline on, a water spout the sends water rushing up your legs where you stand and a heavenly waterfall that pours massaging torrents over your head and shoulders.

Breakfast

Breakfast is a serious business in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. From the large dining room, you carry your breakfast haul to your seat on the veranda and the perfect views of La Terrazza Restaurant.

What food is there?

It would be easier to ask what food isn’t there. From freshly made crepe, cannoli, incredible fudge all the way to exquisite smoked swordfish sashimi and an entire table of cheese. This is what I a hotel breakfast. And unfortunately, what I’ll be comparing every other hotel breakfast to from now on.

The grounds and facilities

The Tremezzo’s gardens are – as you’d expect – pristinely tended. The abundant beds overflowing with beautiful white flowers border paths and avenues that lead you through the private and very romantic grounds.

Past the outdoor pool and pizzeria at the back of the hotel is a short but elevating hike that takes you high above the Hotel Tremezzo. The views from the top are quite incredible, up all the way to the peaks of the Alps and down south towards Como and Milan.

We were tempted by the pamperings of the Tremezzo’s Espa, but in the end settled for a dip in the infinity pool and a sip of the delicate infused water on the terrace. We were also tempted by the gym too, which is on three floors of one of the adjacent buildings.

It’s probably one of the most complete gyms we’ve seen in a hotel and is cleverly divided by floors: 1st floor is Cardio, 2nd Strength and 3rd is Functional. Bathrooms are also on the top floor, so if you need to go, you already have to be fit!

There is also a little boutique here selling not just Tremezzo merch, but also a really quite lovely range of clothing. We both fell in love with the soft silkiness of the woven birch clothes – yes, apparel made from wood.

I did buy a new shirt though, which I really do love – even though it’s not made of tree.

Ruy

One of the loveliest additions to the Grand Hotel Tremezzo is Ruy. This restored 1950s Venetian style speed boat was donated by the owner’s father, who also once ran this beautiful hotel – as did her grandfather.

You can charter Ruy for 1-3 hours, and she will take you around the lake. Her driver can give you a thorough history of all the lake and the shoreline villas as you fly by. Of all the moments of our time at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, this was the absolute highlight. I don’t think I’ve seen Christina as happy or excited!

It’s the little touches that make the difference

Everything about the way the Tremezzo is run has that feeling of relaxed elegance, though nothing happens slowly. Like that well-used image of a swan swimming, above the water it all looks serene, but below decks, the engine room is going like the clappers. This pays tribute to the fact that this is very much a vacation hotel not a business hotel.

From parking, the staff were able to radio up to reception and tell them we had arrived. Reception knew who we were and had our paperwork all ready for us.

The Grand Hotel Tremezzo has developed its own fragrance – Aqua Como. The scent is used in complimentary toiletries in your room and in Espa, but you notice it throughout the hotel. The combined floral aromas of rose, violet, jasmine, lily of the valley, white musk, cedarwood, and green notes of comino and cloves create the kind of perfume that makes memories.

The turn-down service is simply fantastic – a surprise and delight. Every evening, we found a beautiful hand-written card with messages like “Laughter is timeless, imagination has no age, and dreams are forever. Goodnight.” Lovely.

Since its opening, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo has only had 3 families as owners. Since the Gandolas first opened the doors in 1910, the Sampietros took over in the 1930s, and then the de Santis family bought the keys in 1975. Now the third-generation owner and CEO Valentina de Santis has been in charge since 2013.

Valentina’s modern touch and keen understanding of what the Lady of the Lake should be about has given the hotel a feminine quality that adds a delicate nuance and extra glamour to this already stunning property.

The best thing about so few people being at the Tremezzo’s helm for so long is that the old charm it started with hasn’t left. It’s simply evolved.

We stayed as guests of the Grand Hotel Tremezzo

The post The Lady of Lake Como – Grand Hotel Tremezzo appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Lake Iseo – our previous destination – and the beautiful wedding our friends had was a hard act to follow, but I think where we are in this Weekly Edition is a pretty good follow-up.

We’re still amongst the Italian lakes and have finally come back to Lake Como. It’s been five long years since we were last here but it’s better than we remembered. We’re staying on the western shores of Como, at Tremezzo, in a hotel that epitomises Italian glamour and looks like it’s from a set of a Wes Anderson movie.

After Lake Como, we head to Switzerland (just) to Lake Lugano, which straddles the Italian and Swiss borders. The views from this lake are pretty special too, so I hope you’re ready for a travel bug bite!

We hope you enjoy this Weekly Edition.

Jim & Christina xx

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We’ve been invited to stay at the stunning Grand Hotel Tremezzo and we do not hesitate in saying YES. We’ve been dreaming of this hotel since featuring it in our top hotel pools and we’re finally here.

There are actually three pools at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo – the floating pool on Lake Como, the Flower Pool, hidden in the landscaped gardens behind the hotel, and an infinity pool that’s partially indoors as part of their spa that looks out over the lake and the mountains beyond.

You can see our full review of this magnificent hotel here.

We’re staying in a lake view room on the second floor and have a full review to come, but in this Weekly Edition we want to share just a few moments from our stay.

When we travel, I always like to get up to photograph the sunrise. It’s so peaceful and quiet on the lake, the ferries are just beginning and the hotel is just waking up. From bed, Jim has snapped this pic of me and I always want to remember this feeling – messy hair, camera in hand, breathing in a new day.

The Grand Hotel Tremezzo offers a turn-down service and it’s these little touches that make this hotel so special. It has all the charm from when it was first opened in 1910, mixed with the modern conveniences we need as 21st century travellers. We’ve loved our stay here and are already planning a return trip.

Breakfast is a leisurely affair here, and once you’re seated on the terrace with a coffee, you don’t really want to leave.

I have to have a crepe made fresh by the chef, though I’m also tempted by the tables of pastries. Cannoli for breakfast? Yes please! (Can you tell I have a bit of a sugar addiction?)

Jim’s all about the cheese table and he’s going back for seconds of the smoked swordfish carpaccio. The breakfast buffet is out of control here.

As good hotel reviewers, we feel obliged to test out every part of the hotel (it’s a tough life!) so next headed to “The Beach” – the sandy beach bar and pool on Lake Como itself.

We can attest that the sun-loungers are incredible comfortable. It’s very difficult to tear ourselves away from here. The views from the pool are spectacular and it turns into a mini wave pool when the hydrofoil zooms by, rocking the whole pool, which is literally floating on the lake.

Only one man could pull us away from testing out all the pools at the hotel, and that’s our captain, Vito.

He’s waiting to take us on a tour of Lake Como aboard the beautiful Ruy. Ruy was built in 1961 in Venice and lovingly restored by the family who own the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Guests can book the boats for tours and transfers, and we can’t recommend this enough.

So much of Lake Como is best seen from the water, such as Villa del Balbionella, which you might recognise from such films as Casino Royale and Star Wars.

You can drive around the lake, but the perspective from the water is amazing. This boat tour needs its own post to really show off the beauty of the villas and the scenery here. Keep an eye out for a video coming soon…

You can tell from Jim’s face that he is hating it. I’m in a dream as well. I heard that a local said: “when an Italian gets to heaven, he’ll be disappointed.” When it comes to days like this on Lake Como, I can see his point.

After coming back down to earth, we head across the lake to see how Varenna has changed since our last visit. We can happily share it is the same! This sweet little town on the eastern shore of Lake Como is an easy train trip from Milan and has one of the best gelato shops.

It’s nothing to look at from the outside, but you can take a seat on the stairs next door and eat some divine gelati. We can recommend the dark chocolate with ginger – I know, we weren’t sure about this either until we tasted it, but it was incredible. The dark chocolate was rich and the perfect mix of sweet and bitter, while the ginger added a delicious hint of heat and spice.

Jim’s showing you exactly where to sit to enjoy gelato in Varenna!

We wander the tiny alleys and stairways of this lakeside town until dinner and catch the ferry back over to Tremezzo. This part of Lake Como is perfect for day trips, though I could spend days in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo without having to leave.

Between Tremezzo and Varenna you’ll find Bellagio, the pearl of Lake Como.

This beautiful town can feel full quickly with day-trippers but as the sun sets, it’s a gorgeous spot to wander. Crowds die down and the town becomes peaceful once again.

Two streets over from here, we find a perfect aperitivo spot at bstyle food & wine. It’s down a tiny stairway with tables for two built into the walls outside. They’re focused on food and wine that’s all locally sourced. Their cheese and meat platter is superb. And they make a great negroni too.

And before we know it, our time in Como is coming to an end. What a whirlwind trip it has been and we have loved every moment.

Though it’s not goodbye, as we promise we will be back on our next spin in Italy.

So with only two days left before we fly back to England, we make a last minute decision to tick off a new country for Jim: Switzerland!

Did you know it’s less than an hour’s drive to Switzerland from Como? For an Australian, this still blows my mind. I’m used to driving 6 hours and still being in the same state!

We start the steep drive through the hills across to Lugano. I count the hairpin turns as we navigate across the border and catch a glimpse of Lake Lugano.

This part of Switzerland is really quite Italian, and Lake Lugano sits right across the border with Italy.

Lake Lugano is famed for its emerald waters we can see why.

Around the shoreline in Lugano is a lovely tree-lined promenade. We’re not sure if the Swiss also have a “passegiata” tradition like the Italians, but this area is perfect for it.

Passegiata a lovely tradition – something I wish more countries would take on. Just after sunset, especially in the southern regions of Italy, local families come out to stroll the streets of their town. They grab a bite to eat, catch up with friends and chat.

We consider hopping on the ferry to explore the lake but we know we have more time to do that later. Instead we head into the archways of Via Nassa and the Quartiere Maghetti in search of lunch.

How could we walk past this deli? Gabbani is a bit of an institution with it’s fresh food stores, restaurant and hotel in the city centre.

It’s hard when you’re married to a photographer, and Jim is waiting patiently while I’m enjoying the street photography scene in Lugano.

Don’t worry, I didn’t make him wait too long before we take a seat at Gabbani for lunch.

Jim’s lunch isn’t the most photogenic but it’s the most delicious. From memory it’s a potato soup with caramelised calamari, and it’s incredible.

The addition of fresh cacioricotta cheese is why I have to order this pasta. Perfectly cooked and with a rich, luxurious ragu. Yum!

Jim is having the best time driving around here. I love playing navigator and finding a new way for us to go. It was pretty tight around here, but the views were worth it.

We’re glad we have another day to explore this gorgeous part of Europe and after a quick google search, I see we’re close to Morcote. It was crowned Switzerland’s prettiest village in 2016 and they weren’t wrong.

South of Lugano, Morcote is a stunning little town. On top of the village you’ll find the church of Santa Maria del Sasso and there are stunning views over the lake.

Around the edge of the lake are dotted cute little cafes and restaurants. We’re also here at the same time as a classic car rally comes through the town which is so fun to see.

Wandering the tiny back lanes of Morcote, I hear this cute cat call out to me and pop his head out of the window. He’s very cute but as I pat him he starts to roll over and I thought he was going to fall out of the window!

I have to use my arm to keep him on the ledge and I’m not sure how I’m going to get away. But luckily Jim’s caught this shot and eventually the cat moves so we can keep exploring.

We end up at this stylishly overgrown garden terrace – La Terrazza sul Lago – for lunch of whitebait, caprese salad and fresh gnocchi. Highly recommended.

So that’s a brief update (I tried!) of our time in Lake Como and Lake Lugano, and I’ve only just scratched the surface.

We’ll have travel guides, reviews and more coming soon.

If you’re looking for a romantic destination, this should be top of your list.

Thanks for making it this far down in my mega version of our Weekly Edition. See you next week.

The post Lake Como, Lake Lugano and a very special hotel appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Usually when you book a hotel room, it’s because you want to visit the place around the hotel. But these 15 hotels have pools that are so incredible they almost become a destination in themselves. Almost.

Thankfully there’s no need to choose between pool or destination: these pools and their respective hotels are also in places you’ll really want to see as well.

From the alpine peaks of Switzerland to the wild jungles of Borneo, we’ve brought you some of the most magical places for a footprint and pools for tired feet – or at least to add them to your travel dreams hit list. They’re certainly on ours!

We’ve been lucky enough to have experienced some of these hotel pools for ourselves, so we’ve added a bit more detail into those we’ve been to. But the others are in our sights, that’s for sure.

15 bucket list hotel pools

1. Perivolas – Santorini, Greece

Perched on cliffs high above the Aegean Sea and built on the restored remains of 300-year-old cave dwellings, the Perivolas is already a special part of Santorini.

Then you add in this sublime pool nestled within the curved whitewashed walls of the 20 suites and the Perivolas takes things to the next level.

Shop prices at Perivolas here.

2. The Cambrian – Adelboden, Switzerland

Sitting at over 1,300 metres amidst the mountain peaks of the Bern Canton’s Swiss Alps, the Cambrian offers incredible views of snow-covered ranges from every window.

But even better are the views from the pool.

Part of the Cambrian’s spa facilities, this pool is well-heated and even flows through to an indoor section if the snowy weather gets too cold.

Shop prices at The Cambrian here.

3. Borneo Rainforest Lodge – Danum Valley, Malaysian Borneo

Though not the biggest pool you’ll find, this one is all yours. And relaxing in your own private pool in the middle of the magical Borneo jungle is quite something.

The sounds of gibbons hooting in the trees and the Danum River swirling its way through one of the last natural habitats of orang utans and pigmy elephants, this is a special place indeed.

The Borneo Rainforest Lodge is an incredible place that somehow couples the wild romance of adventure and exploration with indulgence of luxury.

Check out our full review and tale of our time in Danum Valley, Borneo.

4. Aleenta Phuket – Phang Nga, Thailand

Staring at the crashing waves of the Indian Ocean from the edge of your own private pool is something everyone needs to do at least once in their lives!

Going straight from your villa into the water is amazing – and it’s only a quick stroll down to the shoreline if you feel the need for some surf.

Most of the villas in the Aleenta Phuket have their own pool, but if you don’t – or if you want a bit of variety, the shared pool is pretty spectacular too.

Check out our full review and video walk-through of Aleenta Phuket here.

Shop prices at Aleenta Phuket here.

5. Delamore Lodge – Waiheke Island, New Zealand

Looking out over the deep blue waters of New Zealand’s Owhanake Bay in the Hauraki Gulf, Delamore Lodge’s exquisite semicircular heated infinity pool is perfect.

It’s only a short ferry ride (or even shorter helicopter flight!) from Auckland to Waiheke Island and this award-winning hotel.

Shop prices at Delamore Lodge here.

6. LeCrans Hotel and Spa – Lens, Switzerland

Crowning the lofty height of the Crans-Montana ski resort in the Swiss Alps’ Valais region, LeCrans Hotel and Spa offers mind-blowing views out across one of the world’s most famous mountain ranges.

It’s pool: a tranquil retreat set amongst the pine tops and mountain peaks, and snugly embedded in white drifts of winter snow.

Shop prices at LeCrans Hotel and Spa here.

7. Sala Phuket Resort and Spa – Mai Kao, Thailand

If it’s privacy you’re after, the Sala in Phuket, Thailand is the way to go. Within your walls to your villa complex, you have sole access to this beautiful pool and outdoor lounge.

If the pool’s too much for you or you feel like a good soak, there’s also a magnificent bathtub by the pool too.

People feeling like a change of scenery or socialising can explore the hotel’s shared pool, which is also a bit closer to the beach – and more importantly the bar!

Check out our full review and video walk-through of the Sala Phuket here.

And shop prices at Sala here.

8. Four Seasons Shanghai at Pudong – Shanghai, China

The high-octane heart of Shanghai is all yours to see from the huge windows of the Four Seasons Shanghai at Pudong.

This rather sexy pool is part of a hotel focused on bringing exclusivity, luxury and the romance of the city to its guests. As you’d expect with a Four Seasons hotel, the brief has been met a few times over here.

Shop prices at the Four Season Shanghai at Pudong here.

9. Sina Hotel Brufani – Perugia, Italy

Set overlooking the high point of Perugia, Italy, the Brufani is a beautiful old hotel with hidden secrets at its feet.

This underground grotto of a pool has to be the most atmospheric of all the pools – not only on this list but that we’ve ever been to.

Apart from the old archways and golden light of the current building, the Brufani’s pool is built over ancient Etruscan ruins. The Etruscans were the original occupants of this part of Italy before the Romans, who all but destroyed their civilisation.

These ruins, carefully hidden beneath thick glass under the quiet waters of the hotel pool, stand as a reminder of an ancient forgotten people.

For our full review of the Sina Brufani Hotel, click here.

And shop prices at the Sina Brufani Hotel here.

10. The Springs Resort and Spa – Arenal, Costa Rica

Set just 4 miles from the peak of the Arenal Volcano, The Springs Resort and Spa in Costa Rica takes advantage of not only the incredible views of the mountain but also the hot springs from around it.

And though every room here has views out over the Arenal Volcano National Park, it’s the pool that’s the real showstopper. Free-form lagoon pools that range in temperature flow down the resort showing the best the Arenal Volcano has to offer.

Shop prices at The Springs Resort and Spa here.

11. Aleenta Hua Hin – Pranburi, Thailand

Venerated as one of the favourite residences of the Thai royal family, Hua Hin and its coastline hold a special meaning in Thailand.

It somehow makes it even more special when you can bob around in your own private pool and lose yourself in the sunset or watching the lights of distant ships as night falls here in the Aleenta Hua Hin.

Cleverly combining luxury with its stance as an eco hotel, the Aleenta Hua Hin sets itself apart from most resorts. There is only one separate villa with its own pool, but as you can see, the exclusivity pays dividends.

Here’s our full review of the Aleenta Hua Hin.

And shop prices at the Aleenta Hua Hin here.

12. Hotel Rivalago – Sulzano, Italy

Standing stately on the shores of Lake Iseo – just east of Lake Como, Italy – the Hotel Rivalago has the classic look of an Italian lakeside hotel.

It’s pool, close to the lake’s edge, is the perfect place to relax by day. By night, it’s often transformed for special events and dinners with all the glamour and beauty you’d expect from a venue and location like this.

We’re particularly excited to be able to include this beautiful pool and its hotel in this list, as this is the venue of our friends’ wedding.

Shop prices at the Hotel Rivalago here.

13. The Sarojin – Khao Lak, Thailand

This beachfront hotel looks out over the beautiful Andaman Sea and the Similan Islands, but it’s the pool that’s caught our eye.

This 25m2 infinity pool with its daybeds that look like they’re floating is stunning. Secluded, luxurious and within the sounds of the Andaman’s rolling waves, this is what you want in a hotel pool.

Shop prices at the Sarojin here.

14. Grand Hotel Tremezzo – Tremezzina, Italy

Right across the lake from famed Bellagio, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo in Tremezzina is about as ‘on the lake’ as you can get.

This iconic hotel punctuates the shoreline of one of the world’s most famous lakes. It has three pools, but the one to talk about is actually in Lake Como.

Click here to see how to get to this part of Lake Como by train from Milan and the wonders you’ll find when you get there.

15. LeMeridien KK – Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Borneo

Peering down on the busy esplanade of Kota Kinabalu – Malaysian Borneo’s capital city – the rooftop pool of the LeMeridien KK is perfectly positioned for sunset over the South China Sea.

On the shoreline the nightly food markets try to tempt you down from the warm water and friendly service of the hotel pool and its bar.

Kota Kinabalu is the gateway to the rest of Sabah and its wealth of natural beauty, but that doesn’t mean you have to be in a hurry to leave – especially when the views here are this good!

Click here to see our full review of the LeMeridien Kota Kinabalu.

And shop prices at LeMeridien KK here.

Which hotel pool is your favourite from our list? Have you been to any of these places? Tell us in the comments below!

Un-watermarked images sourced from respective hotels’ Facebook galleries.

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Venice is one of those places everyone should see at least once in their lives. Its beauty, its history, its romance all add up to make it worth travelling across the other side of the world to see.

However, if you’re already in Milan, it’s only another 2 and a half hours of travel before you’re standing on the banks of the Grand Canal staring at the Ponte degli Scalzi and wondering how any of it is still standing.

Getting from Milan to Venice by train

Mrs Romance and I did this journey from Milan to Venice by train a little while ago and it turned out to be the best option by far. It’s quick, cheap and you don’t have to worry about parking.

Driving to Venice is possible, and going by coach is probably the cheapest option, but Venice’s main train station comes right into Venice proper.

There is also an airport, but this is on the eastern side of this incredible city and not as convenient as the train or road.

Milano Centrale

Milano Centrale train station is a northern Italian hub for many different journeys around the country – including going from Milan to Venice of course. For example you can go from Milan to Lake Como by train in under 2 hours from here.

You can book tickets online ahead of your trip or you can buy tickets when you’re ready to leave. Check the times for trains here on the Trenitalia website.

When you’re searching your trip, you need to look for trains from Milano Centrale to Venezia St Lucia.

Important – when you’re choosing your journey, make sure it’s direct. Some make you change trains along the way, which would be annoying with your luggage.

The train

When you get your ticket, make sure you validate it at one of the ticket validation points before you get to your platform. Every train has a ticket inspector who will check you’ve done this. It’s to stop people using their non-time specific ticket more than once.

If you have a ticket with seat allocation, you may not need to validate, but I would just in case.

The hardest part of your train journey will be resisting the temptation to hop off at Brescia or Verona or one of the pretty little towns you stop at along the way!

Venice

The train’s last stop is Venezia St Lucia, which comes out right on the Grand Canal. It took me by surprise when we came out of the station and there was Venice right in front of me. The crumbling walls and beautiful waterways of one of the world’s most intriguing cities was there at my feet.

Watch out for people offering to help you with your luggage. They’re not trying to be friendly, but they’re not trying to rob you either. They’ll carry your bags to wherever you want to go, but they will expect payment and it’s hard to convince them that you don’t want their help.

Getting around Venice

After leaving the station, you should probably buy your vaporetto pass. It’s worth buying a multi-day pass rather than single trips or single day passes – especially if you’re in Venice for longer than one night.

The vaporetto system is like a floating bus service that takes you all around the main canals of the city. It seems complicated at first, but once you get used to it, the vaporetto is a brilliant way to see a lot of Venice.

Here’s our guide to navigating the vaporetto in Venice.

Leaving Venice

When that sad moment comes for you to say goodbye to Venice, you can return to Venezia St Lucia Station to reach a huge number of places around the country. And in fact there are ferries that go from Venice to Croatia and Greece regularly.

Most of the vaporetto lines return to Ferrovia – the wharf to St Lucia Station. Once again, you can book train tickets ahead of time or buy them on the day. Just remember to validate them before you board the train.

While you’re in Venice, there are so many things to see and do it can get overwhelming. Here’s a shortlist for you of 5 things to do in Venice to get you started.

And if you’re looking for more inspiration, check out our Postcards from Venice here.

Going backwards

If you’re planning on going from Venice to Milan by train, you might want some help on things to do in Italy’s fashion capital.

Here are some of our favourite stories we’ve written about things to do in Milan. And don’t forget to save some time to visit Lake Como while you’re there. You won’t regret it. Here’s some more information on Lake Como.

And as we love talking about Italy, we’ve got lots of information about other destinations in Italy. Here’s our library of guides and stories from our time in this beautiful country.

We hope you have an amazing time in Italy – our favourite place to travel to. If you have any questions about the trip, ask us in the comments below. We’ll do our best to help.

Jim & Christina xx

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Chic fashion, busy streets, boutiques and effortless style. That’s what I think of when I hear the name ‘Milano’. However, it seems strange that Milan doesn’t have the same historic, architectural or food-based predisposition the rest of Italy wears so well.

Perhaps it isn’t quite as obvious here as it is in other Italian cities, but Milan can pull out some amazing old buildings from its wardrobe when it wants to. And food? Don’t worry. Milan’s got that covered – and has the shoes to match!

Here are our top tips for things to do in Milan.

1. Duomo – Piazza del Duomo

Milan Cathedral is one of the most important pieces of medieval architecture in the world. It’s also bloody amazing. Its enormous white walls are covered with well over 1000 marble statues, and its 100 or so spires tell of a monument that took over three centuries to build.

Inside, you’ll find the dramatic pillars of one of the world’s largest gothic cathedrals, amazing reliefs and mozaics, but also grisly remains of some of the duomo’s saints in situ under their gowns and gold death masks.

2. Duomo roof

Italian duomos and their piazzas are well known as the centre of their town and are often the tallest historic buildings too. Milan’s cathedral is no exception, so it’s well worth the €7 to go up – it’s only another €5 wisely spent to take the elevator.

From the roof you get incredible vistas over the whole city. Milan’s quite flat too, so you get pretty comprehensive views. If it’s a clear day, you can even see the mountains.

If you don’t fancy the climb and would prefer to take in the sights of the duomo roof with a spritz Aperol in your hand, head to Terrazza Aperol, just across the way in the piazza.

3. Centro Storico

From the doors of the duomo north-west as far as the Castillo Sforzesco.

This whole neighbourhood is where Milan kicks off the Blahnik stilettos and slips into its Gucci slippers of yesteryear.

Still in keeping with that refined elegance but tempered with historic grandeur, Centro Storico shows off the city’s past through its buildings, its cobbled streets, and its elegant statues and fountains.

Start at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuel II – the magnificent shopping arcade adjacent to the duomo – and wander off.

4. Quadrilatero della Moda

If you want chic, this is the place to go. Quadrilatero della Moda is the big-bucks shopping area of Milan. You’ll find all the top-end labels here, so get ready to either grip your wallet a bit tighter or let it fly like a bird released.

There’s no middle ground!

5. Corso Buenos Aires

Heading north-east from the duomo and the city centre.

A bit like London’s Oxford Street, Corso Buenos Aires is alive with foot traffic and shops. The shopping here is much more approachable than Quadrilatero della Moda with a more high-street feel.

With the likes of H&M, Zara, Beneton and Fossil, you’re almost guaranteed to find a bargain. There’s also a good range of bars and enotecas along the way. And if you’re anything like me, when it comes to shopping, frequent drinks breaks are a must.

Along this street was the hotel we stayed in. It’s pretty good and our personal accommodation recommendation: here’s our review the Best Western Hotel Galles.

6. Castello Sforzesco

North-west of the duomo city centre.

This magnificent castle is definitely worth a look. Even if you’re short of time and can only fit in a quick walk through the grounds, it’s not to be missed.

Guarded by the impressive bronze statue of Garibaldi and headed up by a beautiful fountain, the castle is flanked by round towered bastions either side of its huge entrance way. You cross a dry moat to find yourself inside the castle grounds – a four-walled garden.

You can go inside the castello for a fee.

7. Sforza Park and Arch

The other side of Castello Sforzesco is the Sforza Park.

The park is huge and is perfect for a picnic (if you agree with such things) or for a romantic stroll. It’s popular with the more active Milanese, so watch out for joggers and cyclists as you explore the grounds.

On the far side of the park from the castle is the Arco della Pace. The Arco della Pace is much like other celebratory arches you’ll find around Europe. It’s covered with beautiful allegorical and historical statues.

8. The Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Last Supper

West of the duomo and the city centre.

The masterpiece of the Last Supper by Leonardo Di Vinci is in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, a UNESCO World Heritage Listed building and a work of art in its own right.

You’ll need to book a ticket to get in and you’ll need to be there at the time on your ticket. There are guided tours, but they can be expensive.

Apart from this church and the Di Vinci within, the Duomo, and the Castella Sforzesco, there are lots of other great museums scattered around Milan.

9. Game at the San Siro Stadium

If you’re lucky enough to be in town when AC Milan are playing at home, definitely get a ticket to a game. The atmosphere in the stadium is incredible – and that’s coming from someone who was brought up with English Premiership football.

Ask the concierge at your hotel for details – they should even be able to book you some tickets. Just make sure you find out the best way to get to and from the stadium. We got a bit lost getting home!

10. Aperitivo Hour Milano style

The Milanese pride themselves on this strange pre-dinner custom but it means it is possible to eat dinner for free in Milan. For the cost of a drink, you get access to an amazing array of food at the bar of most enotecas in town.

It’s supposed to be a pre-dinner meal (only in Italy, right?!) but there’s so much food there, and no judgments! This ‘aperitivo hour’ – similar to our happy hour only food-based – usually goes from 6 or 7pm until about 9pm. Or until people stop eating.

Bonus: Lake Como

If you’ve had enough of the big city, why not take a day trip out to Lake Como, arguably one of the most spectacular places to visit in the whole country – if not Europe!

Surrounded by mountains, popular with the rich and famous (yes, George Clooney does have a house here), and only an hour out of Milan by train, it’s no wonder why the Milanese head here for their weekend breaks.

Here’s our quick guide to Como and also how to get to Como from Milan by train.

Have you ever been to Milan? What did you get up to? Where would your favourite part of Italy be? Tell us in the comments!

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Thanks to Schwarzkopf, we were lucky to get a great room at the Best Western Galles Hotel* in Milan. The hotel exceeded our expectations, especially when we found out it used to be a 19th Century palace!

*This is no longer a Best Western hotel. It is now the Unahotels Galles Hotel, but is still a wonderful place to stay in Milan.

But let’s start from the top. The rooms. There are 198 of them and they come in five types. The Business Room, the Suite, the Pet Friendly Room (up to three people and one pet), the Superior Room, and the Classic Room, which is what we had. Check the hotel website for offers and current rates.

And for other great options of where to stay in Milan, click here!

The room was bit small maybe, but that’s Italy for you. Not quite as bad as a Paris hotel room, there was enough space for our luggage, the enormous bed, a desk and a single wardrobe. Not much else.

The bathroom’s the same with enough space for one person plus amenities… but that’s all you need, isn’t it?

The best part about our room – apart from the complimentary WiFi and a resident gecko that kept our room free of bugs  – was the built-in wall safe. Cool? No. That’s beyond cool. I mean, come one – it was hidden behind a picture in the wall! I just wish we had something valuable enough to put in there!

Unfortunately, after the 24-hour flight from Sydney we were so exhausted we didn’t take any (focused) photos of our room but we can say the hotel website pictures are very accurate. We did take pictures of the other hotel features though.

The rest of the hotel is spread out among the sprawling winding corridors of this deceptively large seven-storey renovated palace:

Basement level: gym, spa, subterranean pool and Himalayan salt spa. Oh and there’s a meeting room down here too.

Ground floor: American bar, internet café, Playstation corner and of course reception.

6th floor: restaurant and an excellent buffet breakfast. Also a mysterious smoking lounge we never found.

7th floor: access to the two beautiful rooftop terraces overlooking a lot of the city.

The hotel also has its own Metro station… kind of. Lima Station is a quick 4-stop trip from the Duomo and continues on to Milano Cadorna, which links you to the airport and other parts of Italy like Lake Como. Here’s our post about getting to Como. It’s only a short walk to Milano Centrale from the hotel, and around 25 minutes walk to the centre of the city.

One of the million or so entrances to Lima Station is directly outside the hotel’s front door. Very handy.

With the proximity of the station in mind, try to get a room as high as you can as the rumblings from the underground trains will wake you up making you think you’re late for the ample breakfast, which starts at 7am and finishes at 10am.

Hotel Galles is also a shoe’s throw away from one of the best high-street shopping stradas in Milan. Corso Buenos Aires is a big, long, wide road in the north west of the city.

It’s also a busy street, so try to get a courtyard room or one not facing the Corso.

Corso Buenos Aires’ best shopping areas are between Porta Venezia and Loreto Metro stations… so at the Hotel Galles, you’re slap bang in the middle of Credit Card Town!

Unahotels Hotel Galles Milano
Piazza Lima, 2
20124
Milan

Images by Mrs Romance.

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And George Clooney.

Como failed in only one respect. George wasn’t home. The rest of it was even more remarkable than we were expecting.

The train from Milan was quick and painless. Here’s our post on how to get to Lake Como from Milan.

Before long the Bergamo Alps were staring into our train carriage, and the glint of the lake sparkled and glittered. From the station, we crossed the tracks and headed down towards the edge of the lake and to the town of Varenna.

Varenna is just one of many little towns dotted along the shores of the lake. They all have this amazing ability to awe you as you walk their cobbles. They nestle in against the hills and mountains of the lakeshore, and make you wish you could stay there forever.

You try not to dream of having a little house here.

Or a little boat to wander from town to town on. Or maybe a really big boat! There are both on Como – and everything in between. We had neither, so we made do with the ferry service that runs from Varenna.

Views from the ferry were even more heart rendering because we were only staying the day. We made the most of it though, and the ferry dropped us at the town of Bellagio, which was beautiful as well.

In Bellagio, we left the busy port behind us and headed as far away from the crowds as we could. We wondered the streets and looked for a spot to refresh. We found it after a fair walk and were glad of our search. The little bar – La Punta – faced back towards Varenna and was excellent.

Heading back to Varenna, our ferry ride was treated to an impressive sunset that dipped behind the side of a mountain. We watched the light fade from a waterside restaurant – Bar Il Molo – over our cocktails and dinner.

From the quaint little bridges along the water’s edge and the stony paths that jut out over the lake to the delicious gelaterias and hidden bars under archways, we’ll miss Como. It’s one of those places that, now we think back on our day there, seems even more like a dream than what we imagined it would be.

It’s just lucky we were heading back to Milan. Many other places would have been an anti-climax too big to bear.

Images by Mr and Mrs Romance.

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