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Our first time to Milan wasn’t what you’d call ‘normal’. It was September 2013 and Christina and I were in town for Milan Fashion Week.

The place was absolute chaos.

Piazzas were packed with fashionista and paparazzi, roads were clogged with SUVs hooning the likes of Anna Wintour from one show to the next and streets were humming with a mixture of carnival excitement and irritation.

Christina — aka Hair Romance — had been sent by Schwarzkopf to cover one of the biggest events in the international Fashion Week calendar. The things we got to do and see.

Partying in palaces, staying in grand hotels, rubbing shoulders with the glitterati (yes, that includes Anna Wintour) and even sitting front row of Fashion Week catwalk shows.

Craziness.

The times we’ve been back to Milan since then have been much more ‘normal’, but calm or crazy, spending time in Milan is a wonderful experience. We’ve put together our notes from our trips over the years to bring you our Essential Guide to Milan.

jump to each section of this guide

How to get there

Milan one of the most connected cities in the world.

Milan Malpensa Airport is one of the busiest airports in the world. Most long-haul flights come through Rome or here.

For short-haul and budget flights, Bergamo’s Il Caravaggio International Airport offers a great value option that people regularly overlook, but a shuttle runs every half hour to central Milan — plus Bergamo is well worth looking at while you’re there. The best cappuccino I’ve ever had fyi.

If you’re already in Europe, getting the train to Milan is the perfect option. No parking or transfers, you arrive straight in the middle of the city. Milano Centrale is a major terminal with buses and taxis ready to collect you when you arrive.

The tram system, which also has stops right outside Milano Centrale, is probably the best way to explore the city. The official app is called ATM (Azienda Trasporti Milanesi) and gives you live updates etc all in one place.

Download the phone app from the site here.

Where to stay in Milan

Like any major city, Milan has an enormous wealth of accommodation options. The times we’ve been here, we’ve stayed in hotels and private houses, and we’ve found the city’s northeast near Loreto to be perfect for our needs.

Loreto is superbly connected — close to Centrale but also a lot of other metro stops — and is also near plenty of bars and restaurants. It’s also at the end of the Corso Buenos Aires, one of Europe’s longest shopping streets.

For example, the hotel we stayed at here was the Unahotels Galles Hotel — you can read our full review here.

For whatever reason, accommodation in Loreto is also usually quite reasonable.

Where to eat and drink

Italians really can’t help themselves — they just can’t serve bad food. And the trick to it is you don’t have to go to the swankiest restaurant for the best meal; little local places will often out-punch their bigger, flashier (and more expensive) international competitors.

Here are some of the places we like:

Pirati Poeti

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Initially because it was close to our accommodation, but later because we loved it so much, Pirati Poeti (Pirates and Poets) became our favourite bar in Milan.

Not much more than a hole in the wall with a little covered section on the street for tables, this bar pushed out some great cocktails. But it was more about how friendly the staff were, how quickly we became locals (we were best mates with the owners by the end of the second round) and that sought-after feeling of being part of it all.

We watched a local football derby on the TV they’d angled over the street, we share tables with the locals and joined in the jokes through the evening. A great spot.

Luca & Andrea Bar

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There are plenty of bars and cafes along the canals in Milan’s southwest, but we picked Luca e Andrea’s for its friendly, simple and authentic vibe.

The dishes they serve are pretty straight forward, but generous and tasty. My cotoletta alla milanese (Milan-style schnitzel) was a bit dry, but big enough to keep me happy. Apart from a table of locals, who we were friends with by the end of the meal, we were the only customers on that winter’s evening.

During summer, I’m sure the place is packed.

Ristorante Pizzeria la Ragazza

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About as old school Italian as you can get, La Ragazza is full of the charm that Italian restaurants overseas always try to emulate, but never get quite right.

Staffed solely by older Italian men with a bit of swagger and banter, La Ragazza is the quintessential Italian dining experience — none of this being ignored, belittled or overcharged routine you get in over-touristy places.

The restaurant’s food is all on point. Enormous calzone to enormous steak Florentine, delicate entrees and tasty home-cooked desserts, and a beer, wine and spirits shelf to match, this is the real deal.

All’ Antico Vinaio sandwich shop

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There are a few of these sandwich bars scattered around the city, but the one on the outside wall of Milano Centrale Station is the OG.

These guys smash out hundreds of massive sandwiches every day. Made from fresh focaccia baked out back and brought into the shop as they’re ready, these sandwiches are so full of all the Italian deli goodies you can think of and they’re amazing.

Rivoire Oberdan

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This up-market restaurant is one of those rare places that takes itself seriously enough that it has a sense of humour about it. Eclectic, eccentric and at times just plain weird, Rivoire Oberdan on Piazza Oberdan is decorated with the strangest collections of things.

Samurai armour, French vases and Roman busts fill shelves, rose pink marble shines from the floor, and the walls and ceiling are the canvas of Sistine Chapel style classical paintings. But it’s the stuffed animals that catch the eye. Lions — even a full-size ostrich on its own little desert diorama — stand sentinel around the room.

Food here is excellent. Well-plated dishes are delivered by staff dressed as 1950s cruise liner crew, and the steak tartare is constructed at the table on a little trolley. Pretty cool.

Terrazza Aperol

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Overlooking the Duomo and easy to spot from the street with its bright orange umbrellas, this balcony bar is pricy and packed, but gives great views over the piazza.

This place had only recently opened when we were there in 2013, so ignore the prices in our write-up, but here’s our story on Terrazzo Aperol.

Il Bar

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For even better views of the Duomo, Il Bar is a glorious open-air rooftop venue at the top of the Rinascente department store (level 7).

Don’t take too much notice of the queues to get in (or should I say out) to the bar; most people are waiting to go and take photos then shove off. Ask for a table and you’ll usually be whisked past. Very VIP, darling!

Things to do in Milan

Duomo and rooftop

Europe’s biggest Gothic cathedral, the Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of the Nativity of Saint Mary — or just the Duomo to its friends, this 14th Century church is one of Italy’s most striking landmarks.

Go inside to see the statues, ceilings, pillars and saints — and also the zodiac signs in the beautiful floor, and down into the catacombs to see more saintly remains.

But it’s the rooftop that offers the most unique and interesting experiences in Milan.

You need to pay an entrance fee to go into the Duomo, but for a few extra euros, you have access to the roof. And for a couple more euros, you get to skip the narrow clambering staircases and take the elevator to the top. Much more civilised.

From the roof, you get superb views out over the city, but you also get close-ups of the spires and statues that adorn the Duomo — perspectives that you just can’t get any other way.

The intricate details of the roof really are something not to be missed.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II mall

Directly north of the Duomo, the Galleria shopping mall is a beautiful glass-topped building that has inspired many glass-roofed malls around the world including the Block Arcade in Melbourne.

Housing some of the most prestigious fashion icons (and at one point a McDonald’s!), this mall with its glass-domed atrium is almost as popular as the Duomo itself. At Christmas time, Milan erects an enormous tree in the middle.

Of course, you can come here to shop, but most people are here to admire the building itself.

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Last Supper

Within the bright Renaissance-era walls of the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie hides one of the most famous paintings in the world. Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper draws millions of visitors each year.

We’ve never been in to see this masterpiece as the ticketing system is not only complicated, requires planning and has non-negotiable arrival times that we find difficult and off-putting, it’s also very expensive.

But this link will get you one of the best skip-the-queue tours out there if you’re planning to see one of the most significant artworks in the world.

Parco Sempione, the Arco de Pace and Castello Sforzesco

Easily the biggest park in Milan, Marco Sempione is at the heart of the Centro Storico — Milan’s old town. At one end is the magnificent Arco de Pace — Milan’s triumphal arch — and at the other the stout Castello Sforzesco, a 15th Century fortress now turned museum and art gallery.

It’s free to explore the grounds of the castle, but around €5 to go inside. Artworks here include a Michelangelo and some di Vinci frescos.

The Arc de Pace frames the park and castle beautifully, and is a popular meeting place (i.e. people-watching spot).

Cimitero Monumentale

It might seem a little morbid — close to ‘dark tourism’ perhaps — but Cimitero Monumentale (the Monumental Cemetery of Milan) is amazing. Full of ever grander and more opulent mausoleums, this cemetery gives you some idea of the wealth within Milan.

You won’t find the graves of anyone particularly famous here — this isn’t Highgate or Père-Lachaise. But only the super-rich are laid to rest here. Many of the Campari family for example. But you don’t come here hunt the stars; it’s more to marvel at the sheer scale of some of these tombs.

Quadrilatero della Moda

Quadrilatero della Moda or Quad d’Oro is the high-end shopping district of the city. If you’re looking for the haute couture that Milan is famous for, you’ll find it here. The finest, most famous fashion houses have premises in the Quad d’Oro.

So get ready to either grip your wallet a bit tighter or let it fly like a bird released. There’s no middle ground!

Corso Buenos Aires

Europe’s longest shopping street, Corso Buenos Aires is full of the modern, regular ‘high street’ retail.

It’s also full of great bars and restaurants, so it’s worth exploring this 1.2km stretch and its side streets. There’s an abundance of cool, fun places to stop in at, and they tend to be more affordable than anything you find near the Duomo.

Aperitivo hour

This fascinating custom seems to have become a bit of a Covid casualty, but there are still some venues that do aperitivo hour.

For the cost of a drink, you can help yourself to the tasty morsels at the counter and you can usually go up as many times as you like. This is as well as the snacks that come with drinks at most bars. Expect pizzi, cheese, meat, fruit, olives, salads frittatas, crudités and more.

Sport in Milan

Its central location has made Milan not only centre of fashion, but also a financial and industrial one too. And let’s not forget all the tourism from sport.

With not one but two internationally renowned football teams of AC and Inter Milan in the city, as well as Bergamo’s Atalanta BC to the north, Milan’s famed San Ciro Stadium gets a good workout.

Then of course you have the Formula 1 in nearby Monza, and with the 2026 Winter Olympics also held here and across the region, sport is central to Milan’s personality.

Milan in winter

We love to travel to places — especially European cities — out of season. The crowds are smaller, the locals are calmer and you get to see the destination for what it really is. It’s like meeting a famous person when their guard’s down.

Milan in the winter can be quite cold, but not unbearable. On average, only December and January get really cold, and temperatures generally don’t dip below zero.

Pretty much everywhere is still open in the winter months in Milan, and though there are far fewer visitors, there’s still a great vibe to the city.

Check out our full write-up on Milan in winter here.

Beyond Milan

Lake Como

Lake Como is one of those special places in the world that everyone should see at least once. It’s so beautiful.

From Milan, it’s a straightforward train journey takes you from Milano Centrale to Varenna — a little town on the eastern shores of the lake — in under an hour.

Varenna is stunning and well worth exploring. Its steep streets that reach up from the lake are full of pretty shops and bars.

From here you can get a ferry across the Bellagio. Apart from being where George Clooney lives, this is the jewel in Como’s crown. From the Venetian style main street and ferry wharf with its grand hotels and over-water restaurants to the hillside hideaway bars and boutiques, Bellagio is lovely.

Find our Ultimate Guide to Lake Como here.

Down at the northern point of the town is Ristorante Punta (only open seasonally) where you can sit and enjoy the views up the lake to the mountains beyond.

On the western side of Lake Como, the ferry stops at equally beautiful town of Menaggio. Not far from here is the hotel that has our hearts. The lady of the lake, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo sits elegantly, with its private pool floating in the lake like a lily pad.

Check out our story on the Grand Hotel Tremezzo here.

Bergamo

Bergamo is a lovely little town north of Milan. Its old town — Citta Alta — sits at the top of a hill. You can drive or even walk up to it, but the funicular train is much more enjoyable.

Read our write-up about Bergamo here, where the local dish is polenta and gorgonzola, and where I discovered the best cappuccino I’ve ever had.

Parma

East of Milan is the gastronomical wonderland of Parma. Everyone here is obsessed with food, and for good reason. This is the heartland of goodies such as prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

This is the parmesan cheese and prosciutto ham tour we did while we were in Parma. Highly recommended. Our full review is here.

You can also find our guide to food and drink around Parma here.

The Lakes (Como, Iseo, Lugano)

North of Milan are the Grandi Laghi Prealpini – the Great Pre-Alpine Lakes.

Lake Iseo is small and quiet, its main town is no more than a couple of streets, some shops and bars, and one hotel.

The island in the middle — Monte Isola — is Europe’s largest island on a lake, but that doesn’t mean much. It’s still tiny. But around its edges are some lovely little spots for a spritz or a snack.

Here’s our story on Lake Iseo.

Lake Lugano is interesting because it’s split in two by the Swiss border. Here you can eat Italian food while paying in Swiss Francs — a novel if expensive process. It’s so interesting though, to feel the difference between the Italian side and the Swiss side. You wouldn’t think it makes any difference, but it really does.

Here’s our story on five things to do at Lake Lugano and some of our favourite photos.

Apart from Lake Como and its train ride from Milan, which we’ve mentioned already, you’ll need a car to get to the other four: Lake Iseo and Lake Lugano, and Lake Maggiore and Lake Orta.

The post Fashion, Football And A Whole Lot More — Essential Guide to Milan, Italy appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Italy is one of our favourite destinations. Packed with culture, beautiful landscapes, stunning cities and of course one of the broadest spectrums of delicious food you’ll find in one country.

Christina and I have been lucky enough to see quite a bit of this wonderful country — perhaps more than most with Christina’s language skills giving us access to some of Italy’s less obvious facets. But more often than not, we’ve been here in the spring, summer or autumn.

However, we were travelling with our friends Clare and Dave when we arrived at Milano Malpensa Airport in mid-December wondering what Italy’s sartorial centre would be like in winter.

Is Milan Worth Visiting In Winter?

The short answer is ‘yes’, but I hope you’d probably already guessed that.

So perhaps the question should be ‘what’s different about Milan in the winter?’

Of course, it’s colder. In fact, because it’s quite close to the southern edge of the snow-topped Italian Alps, Milan can be freezing, though the city itself rarely gets snowed in.

Its coldest months are December and January, and — as we found — being outside without a hat or thick coat for very long isn’t a lot of fun.

The upside to being here in winter is that the crowds are usually a lot smaller, though the atmosphere is still just as lively.

Certain areas will always be busy; Milan Cathedral and its enormous piazza will still attract huge numbers of visitors, especially before Christmas as there are excellent open-air markets all around and the lights are spectacular.

However, the queues to go into the duomo itself are short and there aren’t as many people on the roof, which is well worth seeing.

Places that are less busy in Milan in winter

We were shocked at how quiet the canals in the city’s southwest were in December. Here, the little waterside bars, cafes and enoteca like Luca & Andrea Bar are empty, and you can have your choice of table.

In fact, most restaurants and bars away from many obvious tourist spots are delightfully quiet in Milan in winter. As a group of four, we never had any problems finding tables, even at conspicuous venues like Rivoire Oberdan with its crazy decor and stuffed ostriches.

Even the bar with the best views of the Duomo — Il Bar — is quiet enough to find a seat without too much effort. This place is on the rooftop of the Rinascente department store (level 7) and is so close to the Duomo you can reach out and touch it. Many come to take photos, but have a seat, a drink and a bite to eat and the place is all yours.

Our favourite bar — Pirati Poeti (Pirates and Poets) — is the exception.

This brilliant little local street-side spot would struggle to fit more than 20 people. The friendly staff somehow manage a lot more than that though, but everyone’s a local apart from us. We all squeeze in around heaters or cram our way inside up at the bar.

The beautiful parks throughout Milan are so quiet.

Yes, it’s chilly, but during the day, the sun still gives plenty of warmth and strolling through Parco Sempione — the geographic centre of Milan — with the grand Castello Sforzesco at one end and the majestic Arco della Pace at the other without hoards of tourists and hustlers mobbing you is a real delight of winter.

Similarly, the leafy Giardini Indro Montanelli in the northeast is serene. In December, there’s also a little ice rink and park for the kids, set up for Christmas.

For an interesting and somewhat unusual insight into Milanese life and history, taking an hour or two to explore the enormous Cimitero Monumentale — the Monumental Cemetery of Milan — in the city’s north is surprisingly rewarding. The mausoleums and crypts of wealthy Milan families are astounding in their scale.

What about further afield from Milan

Close to Milan, Lake Como is easy to get to by train and attracts understandably huge numbers of visitors.

Our favourite part of the lake is not the town of Como in the south, but further north where lake splits in two, where Bellagio sits.

In summer, this little lakeside town is awash with tourists, as is Varenna, the town you arrive in from the train.

In winter, there’s hardly anyone here. Granted, most of the restaurants are shut, but the ones that are still open still do a great job and you often get the choice of the best tables.

The ferry that goes between Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio on the western bank is also usually packed, but the day we were there, we had the whole top deck to ourselves.

Check out our Essential Guide to Lake Como here.

Parma and Bergamo

There are hundreds of smaller towns nearby that we can’t recommend enough. Bergamo to Milan’s north is a wonderful little spot — its ‘old town’ is high up on a hill with superb views and quaint shops and restaurants.

In summer Bergamo reasonably busy, but winter is when you really want to be here anyway. This town’s local specialty is polenta and gorgonzola! I can’t think of anything I want to eat more when it’s cold outside than hot, well-seasoned polenta with a slab of rich hearty gorgonzola cheese melting into it.

Parma, east of Milan, is a food-lover’s paradise. I mean, all of Italy is really, but Parma is famous for two things: parmesan cheese and parma ham — aka reggiano parmigiano and prosciutto di parma. You can even do a tour of where these food icons are made.

In summer, the little streets and alleys of this cute country town are surely heaving. In December, it feels like we’re the only visitors here. Even then, restaurants are packed with locals, perhaps all celebrating the lack of tourists!

The post Is It Worth Going To Milan In Winter?  appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Just over an hour’s drive (or train ride) from the busy chic streets of Milan, Parma is a quiet Roman riverside town with the heart of a gourmand. What fashion and finance is to Milan, so food is to Parma.

But what Parma is particularly proud of (and good at) is a simple staple. However, this town’s version of cheese and ham is anything but simple.

How To Visit A Parmesan Factory And Prosciutto Makers

For years now, Christina has dreamt of standing between the towering shelves stacked with huge wheels of ageing parmesan cheese.

So when we were in northern Italy recently, we made this a mission.

It turns out there are quite a few tours that visit parmesan and prosciutto factories from Parma. We chose ParmaLook’s Parmigiano Reggiano dairy and Parma ham maker tour.

This half-day tour leaves in the morning from central Parma and drives us into the beautiful Emilia-Romagna countryside.

First stop is the parmesan cheese factory.

– Read more of our stories from around Italy here.

– Check out more great things to do and tours to take around Parma here.

– Find some of the best prices on accommodation in Parma here.

Visiting A Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese Maker

The tour begins in a huge barn with large conical copper vats half-sunk into the concrete. These vats are the beginning of cheese-making process — if you don’t count the cows that have to be milked twice daily.

From here we learn about the curds and whey, the pressing that gives the cheese its ‘wheel’ shape and the three-week brining process that gives the cheese its rind and extra flavour.

Finally, we go into the ageing room with its shelves of cheese that Christina has always wanted to see. It’s an incredible feeling to stand here with almost four metres of cheese looming over you.

We get to taste parmesan of different ages and drink lambrusco, a sparkling wine peculiar to the region, and that’s traditionally paired with parmesan.

We also learn more about the rules of making Parmigiano Reggiano. Here are the basics:

– Parmigiano Reggiano can only be made in this small region of Italy
– Milk for the cheese must come from cows living in the region and they can only eat grass grown here
– Parmigiano Reggiano must be aged for at least 12 months — there is no upper ceiling, but after about eight years, the flavour loses potency
– There must be no defects or air pockets in the cheese. Inspectors look at every wheel and tap it with a special hammer. If there are defects, the authentication stamp and the maker’s number on the side are scratched off. The cheese can be sold as parmesan, but not as Parmigiano Reggiano.

This factory makes five cheese wheels a day. Each one weighs 50kg and it takes 550 litres of raw milk to make each one. That means only 10% of the milk goes into the cheese itself.

It’s an amazing experience and so interesting to see how this cheese is made.

We also have chance to meet the 120 dairy cows that live on site. They don’t seem very interested in us — if anything, they’re a little snooty — and I wonder if they know just how special they are; a cut above the average bovine.

Next stop the Prosciutto maker!

Meeting A Prosciutto di Parma Maker

We pull up to what seems to be a regular house. From its front door, an unassuming elderly gentleman appears. This is Alfredo. He’s 78 years old and has been making Parma ham his whole life — though he says he’s retired now.

We follow him through the door and find it hard to believe he’s retired at all.

The scale of his operation is impressive. From the inspection room, where Alfredo looks at each ham leg, we move to the first drying room. Each ham is salted for 20 days before being washed, then it’s another 20 days of drying.

After that, hams are given around 120 days of ‘relaxing’ in near freezing temperatures before a paste of yeast and fat is applied to the base of the ham. Then it ferments for 12 months.

And this is all before the ham begins its ageing process.

The rules for Prosciutto di Parma is even stricter than the Parmesan cheese. Here are the basics:

– Compared to Parmigiano Reggiano, the size of Prosciutto di Parma’s Protected Designation of Origin is much smaller and is restricted to the southern province of Parma
– Pigs must live in the PDO region (though cannot live on the site of the factory)
– The pigs’ diet is also restricted. Interestingly, one of the things they’re fed is the whey byproduct of the Parmesan
– Hams are only from the rear legs, they must be between 12-18kg each and they can’t be too lean; they must have a minimum fat layer of 22mm deep
– Additives and preservatives are forbidden — only the pork itself and sea salt are allowed
– Prosciutto di Parma must be aged between 14 months and three years, and this doesn’t include the year and a half of conditioning we’ve mentioned

At the end of the tour, Alfredo gives us a taste of some of his Prosciutto di Parma. He uses his mother’s old slicing machine that’s at least 150 years old. It slices prosciutto so thinly you can see light through it. Our guide Matteo says the machine’s worth around €12,000.

Alfredo is one of the mere 120 Prosciutto di Parma producers, but collectively, they make a staggering six million hams a year! Alfredo works almost completely by himself, getting a guy in once a year when things are hectic.

It’s wonderful to meet these talented producers of two of Italy’s most loved, famed and delicious food products. Not only does it connects us closer to this country’s culinary culture, it fulfils a cheese dream too.

The post Behind The Scenes of Parmesan and Prosciutto in Parma, Italy appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Somehow managing to mix the parochial charm of an overlooked country town with the grandeur and stateliness of a major European hub, Budapest is somewhere you could never get bored of visiting.

Budapest is one of those rare destinations that not only meets your expectations, but exceeds them.

From the friendliness of its locals and the idiosyncrasies of their food to the scale of its streets and fascinating mix of their architecture, Budapest has so much to offer. And let’s not forget the Danube.

The mighty Danube. For whatever reason, I’ve wanted to stand on the banks of that river and say those words for a long time, and when it happened, I was not disappointed.

Not even when a lad from Liverpool, waiting behind us in line for a river cruise, stated with a squint: “tell ya what, it’s not as big as the Mersey.”

Hilarious.

But the further into Budapest you wander — and let’s be clear, Budapest is a place you have to just walk around aimlessly for a while to enjoy —the more you realise there isn’t anywhere else quite like this.

To help you on your wanderings though, here are our top tips for exploring Budapest. Each of these headings will jump you down to the section in this Essential Guide.

– Where to Stay
– What to Eat & Drink and Where
– How to Get Around Budapest
– Things to See & Do

Essential Guide to Budapest, Hungary

Where to Stay in Budapest

Look for the best deals on hotels in Budapest here.

Of course, there are innumerable options for accommodation in a city the size of Budapest. However, staying in Districts IV, V and VI on the Pest side of the Danube puts you in the city centre where everything happens around you.

We stayed in District VII in Madách Imre Tér (a square named after a 19th Century Hungarian poet) in a hotel that’s sadly no longer running. However, there are plenty of hotels and apartments here that aren’t too expensive (perhaps because it’s only been gentrified in the last couple of decades), but are in the perfect location.

Why is District VII so good?

Well, it’s close to all the major sights — the river, St Stephen’s Basilica, the State Opera — but it’s also not far from two bridges that’ll take you over to the Buda side of the city.

What’s more, the bar and restaurant scene near Madách Imre tér is amazing. Narrow pedestrianised streets and alleys come alive at nightfall, and precincts, quiet during the day, become thriving hotspots.

You’re also well connected to public transport in District VII too.

There are plenty of tram and bus stops nearby, and Deák Ferenc Square and Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Way subway stations are close by too.

What to Eat & Drink in Budapest, and Where To Find It

The best thing about Budapest is that, while it recognises it’s part of Europe and has all the tasty things to eat and drink you’d find in most capitals, it also embraces local food and traditional dishes.

You can find French-style pastries and croissants at places like Freyja—My Croissant Story in District VII, but you can also find little old fashioned etkezda too. These cosy ‘mom-and-pop’ restaurants serve traditional Hungarian home-cooked meals that are as delicious as the venues are adorable.

The one we found — Ildikó Konyhája — is just back from the Danube on the Buda side in District I not far from Buda Castle.

Expect to find down-to-earth dishes like goulash and nokedli (Hungarian gnocchi) here.

Also, look out for Budapest’s famous ‘ruin bars’ — great rotting mansions that have been commandeered and turned into amazing bars and clubs. These are also most commonly found in District VII (I told you it was the cool part of town!)

While you’re in Budapest, make sure you try paprikas, kürtöskalács (kurtosh) and especially langos. These tasty takes on pizza are puffy, cheesy and you can get all kinds of toppings on them — though usually bacon and red onion. Retro Langos on the edges of District V and VII does a great job.

For drinks, of course you’ll find great beer here (keep an eye out for local breweries like Gravity Brewing and Parabolic Lazarus), but if you really want to get into it, try kaplinka. This schnapps style Hungarian spirit is strong and herbal, and it’ll keep you warm on a cold night in Budapest!

For more details on where and what to eat, check out our dedicated post on Budapest food and drink here.

How To Get Around Budapest

As we’ve said, walking this beautiful city is the best way to go. On the Pest side, it’s mostly flat, the streets are clean, drivers are relatively sane and there are some boulevards here that are so wide you’d think they were driving A380s down them.

On the Buda side, it’s much hillier, so if you want to explore Fisherman’s Bastion (you should btw) and the like, make sure your shoes are comfy. Or get a cab.

Otherwise, public transport options in Budapest are excellent and would put most other cities to shame. The happy trifecta of trams, buses and trains cast an impressive web across the city, making it easy to get around quickly.

Important Travel Tip For Budapest

One major tip that will save you not only a lot of money but also a good dose of blushing embarrassment is this:

Get the Budapest Go app.

This is not a paid endorsement and the app is free anyway. Christina discovered this one on the train to Budapest from Vienna.

The app allows you to buy tickets for all public transport in Budapest. But more importantly, it allows you to validate them too. You must do both of these and there are ticket inspectors at most subways.

Purchase your ticket type, validate it at the station or on the bus or tram via the proximity sticker. Then when an inspector asks your validation code, you tap your ticket and a QR code comes up for them to scan.

You can plan trips on the app too. It’s actually pretty good.

Things To See And Do

As you’d expect, there are so many things to see and do in Budapest. As we’ve already mentioned, simply walking around and enjoying the atmosphere of this great city is a wonderful thing to do and will keep you busy.

We covered over 48km in three days there.

For more specific things to do, start with these:

– Széchenyi Thermal Baths – the one thing everyone told us to do in Budapest is actually pretty amazing. These thermal baths in a beautiful setting are well worth taking your togs along for and paying the entrance fee. Here’s more about the thermal baths.

– Vajdahunyad Castle Park – Surrounding the beautiful baroque Széchenyi Baths is an enormous park that covers over 325 acres of the city. It’s so big, it not only has a castle (Vajdahunyad Castle in fact) whose moat is turned into a giant ice rink in the winter, it also has its own metro stop and a zoo!

– State Opera – while it’s possible to go inside this beautiful building in District VI, simply perching on the edge of the fountain and enjoying a bit of people-watching at this popular meeting place is more than enough.

– St Stephen’s Basilica – named after the founder of the city, this impressive church is full of relics and artefacts. Best of all, there’s a lift to the top of the great dome roof for some excellent views over Budapest.

– Ruin bars – many run-down buildings in the once derelict District VII have been turned into incredibly cool bars as the arrondissement has gentrified over the last 20 or so years. Ranging from warehouses and car parks to grand old historic buildings, there are quite a few to explore in the area. The one we went to — Szimpla Kert — is the biggest and best known ruin bar. It’s a lot of fun.

– Országház Hungarian Parliament Building – the most strikingly beautiful of all of Budapests riverside buildings, the Parliament Building is a must-see — even if it’s just to walk round it. At night, this incredible gothic palace lights up and is best seen from the river.

– House of Terror – Budapest has seen many horrors in its existence — from Turkish invasion to Nazi thrall — and this museum covers it all. It’s not a fun visit, but it’s important and very interesting. Just be prepared for some harrowing knowledge.

– River cruise – probably the singular most popular tourist activity in Budapest, these pleasure boats run up and down the Danube all day. However, an evening cruise is the best way to go as the lights from the city really are beautiful. The one we went on has three options: dinner, drinks or just as a passenger. The drinks package is the obvious answer.

You can read all about our river cruise experience — good and bad — here.

Across the river on the Buda side, the high ridges of Castle Hill in District I is covered in stunning architecture and vantage points.

– Fisherman’s Bastion – looking like something out of Game of Thrones, the beguiling white turrets of Fisherman’s Bastion wouldn’t look out of place on the southern coast of Croatia. This 19th Century fortress is a non-negotiable visit when you’re here.

– Labyrinth of Buda Castle – within the walls and under the foundations of Fisherman’s Bastion, the Labyrinth is a network of caves and passageways that have been used for many things over the centuries. But in particular, it was once a prison for Dracula — Vlad Tepes himself! Visit at your peril!

– Buda Castle & grounds – just south of Fisherman’s Bastion, the expansive beauty of Buda Castle and its lavish grounds show you more of the city and its incredible heritage.

– Climb the tower of the Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle – at the southern end of the castle, the gothic spire of the Church of Our Lady hides a steep spiral climb to the top of the minaret with superb views out across the river.

– Citadella – further south, on a hill of its own, the Citadella and its impressive Liberty Statue was built in 1848 after the suppression of the Hungarian Revolution. It’s quite a climb to see this monument, but the views are said to be unsurpassable. The fort was under repair when we visited.

– Széchenyi Chain Bridge – this 19th Century landmark is much loved by the locals and is a beautiful sight especially at night when its lights sparkle off the river. Sadly, this was also under repair when we were in town.

The post Essential Guide to Budapest, Hungary appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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At the heart of Hesse, the western German city of Frankfurt am Main is one of the unsung travel hubs of western Europe. Being a centre for business, banking and commerce, Frankfurt am Main Airport is Europe’s 6th (and Germany’s number one) busiest airports.

This means plenty of flights and great ticket deals.

But instead of using Frankfurt merely as a transit gateway city (or only coming here for business), staying here for a few days really pays off. The food, culture and architecture scenes are well worth exploring.

Click each of these headings to jump to each section:

– Where to Stay in Frankfurt
– Where to Eat and Drink in Frankfurt
– Things to Do in Frankfurt
– Getting Around Frankfurt

Our Essential Guide To Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Where to Stay in Frankfurt

Although inbound flights can be great value, staying in Frankfurt can lean to towards the expensive side thanks to all the business travel here. However, like with every city, you can find good prices.

More important is where you are in the city.

Some of the cheapest hotels are in the red light district. Although this area of many towns is the night life centre of a city and fun to stay in, Frankfurt’s red light district is different. It’s rough and be a little intimidating. Having said that, the district is extremely localised. We stayed one street over and it was absolutely fine.

The Mercure Hotel Kaiserhof Frankfurt City Center was perfect for our needs.

Comfortable, close to the train station (we travelled on through Europe by rail from here), centrally located and reasonably priced, this Mercure was ideal. Be aware though, there is another Mercure nearby that is in the red light district. Don’t get the two confused!

Check this out for some of the best deals on hotels in Frankfurt.

Where to Eat and Drink in Frankfurt

Food and Germany are the best of friends, and Frankfurt is no different to anywhere else in the country.

Bakeries and cafes are everywhere, on virtually every corner, in Frankfurt. Our favourite coffee shop—Why! Specialty Coffee—is just down the street from our hotel and if you can’t find a Kaiserzeit or Der Bäcker Eifler bakery, you’re not in southern Germany anymore.

Right near our hotel is also Plank, a very cool corner bar by night and by day a nice little cafe.

And if you miss out on having a Turkish kebab while you’re in Frankfurt, you have the perfect excuse for returning!

For our full write-up on where to eat and drink in Frankfurt, click here.

Things to Do in Frankfurt

Frankfurt is a wonderful walking city. The first evening we were there, we clocked up over 25,000 steps almost without noticing. Here are some of our favourite places to visit:

– Römerberg—this is an historic square by the River Main and captures the essence of Frankfurt’s old town. Some of the buildings are replicas of what was once considered ‘the most beautiful square in Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation’, but that should take nothing away from the quaintness of this piazza. There is also a pretty little Gothic church here—the Alte Nikolaikirche—which is worth a visit.

This link will take you to a Google Maps pin.

– Kaiserdom St. Bartholomäus—climb the Gothic steeple for the best views of the city. It’s only a couple of Euros to go in. Tickets are from a little booth to the right of the small timber door on the southern side of the cathedral.

This link will take you to a Google Maps pin.

– Food and Wine Markets—like many cities in Europe, Frankfurt does wonderful markets. The short time we were here, we found two in the middle of the city.

Kleinmarkthalle—close to Romerberg, Kleinmarkthalle is a huge three-level indoor market that’s open Monday to Saturday from 8am. Inside is a warren of market stalls selling everything from fresh mushrooms to Persian spices, from sausages to baked goods.

Upstairs are some cafes and bars where you can try some of the produce from below as well. Probably the best wet-weather thing to do in Frankfurt other than museums and galleries, Kleinmarkthalle is a providore’s paradise.

This link will take you to a Google Maps pin.

Bauernmarkt Konstablerwache is an amazing farmers’ market in the centre of the city. Konstablerwache is a large pedestrianised central square and has a history dating back to at least the middle 1500s.

But since 1989, every Thursday (10am-8pm) and Saturday (8am-5pm), market stalls appear selling beer, wine and delicious food connecting the countryside with city.

This link will take you to a Google Maps pin.

Wochenmarkt Schillerstraße right in the centre of the financial district, Wockenmarkt—literally ‘Weekly Market’ on Schillerstraße opens every Friday (9am-6.30pm). This market has more fresh produce, but there are also stalls selling food and drink.

It’s not quite as much fun as Bauernmarkt Konstablerwache, but there’s still plenty to enjoy here, and running on a Friday means it’s quite a bit busier too.

This link will take you to a Google Maps pin.

– The Old Opera House (Alte Oper)—this grand old 19th Century building, fronted by beautiful fountains, trees and a broad piazza, is a popular meeting place and the best for people-watching. Oof course, you can come here to see operas and performances, but it’s also a lovely spot to sit and relax.

This link will take you to a Google Maps pin.

– Sunset from Flößerbrücke—views from the Floßerbrucke (Raftman’s Bridge) over the city are stunning as the sun shines down on the River Maine before it dips below the horizon of Frankfurt’s cityscape. This bridge is also unusual in that it crosses the river at a funny angle.

This link will take you to a Google Maps pin.

– Sachsenhausen District—not far from the Flosserbrucke Bridge on the southern side of the Maine is the Sachsenhausen district, which was once its own village back in the 1300s. Known for its taverns and traditional apple wine, the district is a fun place to explore in the evening.

Our favourite is Fenstergucker (‘window gaper’), and is packed with character and all types of characters.

This link will take you to a Google Maps pin.

Getting Around

First and foremost, Frankfurt is an exceptional walking city. With its rapid changes between traditional and modern architecture—between old European buildings, Gothic churches and low-rise areas and commercial corporate skyscrapers—it’s a city that keeps you entertained.

The river runs right through the city. And with its multitude of bridges, each with a unique view of Frankfurt’s skyline, the Main is an enjoyable landmark to explore.

Public Transport

Frankfurt, like so many European cities, has amazing PT options. There’s an overground train—the S-Bahn—which runs from the city centre to the suburbs, the U-Bahn, which is the city’s underground train that runs with blistering frequency all over Frankfurt, and a tram network, which links up very satisfyingly with the U-Bahn.

You can also use the bus system, which also takes over from the U-Bahn late at night.

For more information, ticket prices, timetables and maps, check out the official RMV website here.

Driving and taxis

We didn’t need to take any taxis or hire cars during our stay in Frankfurt, but these are both good options if you’re in a hurry or you want to get further out of the city respectively.

Roads are, as you’d expect, well maintained and clearly signed here, though traffic does get busy in rush hours.

But however you explore this fascinating yet sadly underestimated German city, you’re set for an unforgettable experience.

The post Our Essential Guide To Frankfurt, Germany appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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From the hilly slopes and crenelations of Fisherman’s Bastion in Buda to the flat, bustling Pest side of the city, Hungary’s capital is a wonderful city to explore.

We’ve always wanted to come here, to see the mighty Danube that cleaves this beautiful historic place in two.

Monumental architecture, a complicated history, a busy cosmopolitan city and a truly unique culture, Budapest is a town everyone should come with the highest of travel expectations and be prepared to have them fulfilled.

From a food perspective, however, we weren’t sure what to expect.

Click here to go to our other stories about Hungary.

Check out this awesome culinary walking tour around Budapest!

And for great places to stay in this wonderful city, here’s a list of hotels and guesthouses at the best price.

What we found though, was a rich diversity of cuisines and a city that prides itself on what it puts on your plate and into your glass.

Each heading has a link to Google Maps to show you exactly where these places are.

12 Places To Eat And Drink In Budapest, Hungary

1. Freyja—The Croissant Story

In the middle of funky District VII, this neighbourhood-style cafe does good coffee, but as you’d hope, even better croissants.

They do a wide selection of filled pastries too. Christina’s pistachio and my ham and comte croissants were excellent. It can get pretty crowded here though, so be prepared for a queue.

2. My Little Melbourne Coffee

This cute little cafe, serving presentable coffee and pastries, was close to our hotel on Madách Imre út and caught our coffee-hungry eye with the word ‘Melbourne’. It’s not quite up to the elevation of Victorian coffee, but it’s not bad.

At night this street and the laneways beyond absolutely go off.

3. Szimpla Kert

One of if not the biggest and best known of Budapest’s famed ‘ruin bars’. This huge crumbling edifice has a great atmosphere and attracts an amazing mix of people—even on a Monday night.

It’s almost like a department store of bars with each little room offering different drinks and a different vibe. Not sure what the food is like here, but come here for a couple of drinks and soak up the vibe.

4. Savoyai Terasz at Budvári Palota (Buda Palace)

Outside the main doors of Buda Palace, this place has probably the best views of any bar of the Pest side of the city from across the water. It’s a tourist bar, but it’s also a welcome break if you’ve walked all the way to the top of this hill instead of using the nearby funicular rail. Like us.

Great for a cheeky beer with a view—very cheeky actually at $10 a pint, but worth it all the same.

5. Leo Rooftop

Also on the Buda side near Budvári Palota, the rooftop bar above the Clark Hotel is absolutely lovely. Also with incredible views of the river and the city, this cool little bar does great drinks and food.

Book a table if you can, otherwise you’ll have to chance it at the weird reception at street level.

6. Twentysix Budapest

This beautiful bar in District II does excellent cocktails and wonderful food. Set in a huge building—or more the atrium of one—Twentysix feels more like an arboretum with tables surrounded by plants and a triple-height ceiling made of panels of glass.

7. Ildikó Konyhája

If you’re looking for an authentic Hungarian food experience, look for etkezda restaurants. Usually run by older locals as a mom-and-pop cafe, the food is always hearty and tasty, and the prices are usually very low.

This one — Ildikó Konyhája — is just a block back from the Danube on the Buda side and is wonderful. Christina’s creamy chicken stew and my beef stew were both great. Both came with nokedli—gnocchi-esque dumpling squiggles.

They also have pálinka here, a traditional Hungarian digestivo spirit. It’s potent, but tasty.

Sadly, etkezde restaurants are becoming harder and harder to come by. Here’s an interesting story on how and why they’re dying out.

8. Millennium Da Pippo

In the lively city suburb of Terézváros, Ristorante Millennium da Pippo shows off Hungary’s international side. From the red and white gingham tablecloths to the prosciutto slicer, this place is about as Italian as it gets.

The food is excellent serving real Neapolitan style pizza, plump and oozy burrata and superb vitello tonnato—a dish you rarely see outside Italy.

9. Gettó Gulyás

This friendly yet upmarket restaurant in District II serves traditional Hungarian dishes, but at the other end of the culinary spectrum to an etkezde, where the kitchen is keen to show off real flare.

We shared a few dishes to make the most of the menu. Entrees of grilled bone marrow left in the half-bone, beef tartare and goulash were delicious. Then mains of beef tenderloin special and veal paprikash.

The professional service guiding us through menu felt like we were being up-sold at first, but actually resulted in a better meal. This was our last dinner in Hungary—a suitable highlight to finish on.

10. Mazel Tov

A similar, though more down-to-earth vibe as Twentysix Budapest, this cavernous eatery is full of greenery and is topped with a high glass ceiling.

Serving beautifully made Mediterranean and fusion Middle-Eastern dishes, Mazel Tov is another great example of Budapest’s broad food vocabulary.

We shared a mezze selection (the hummus was outstanding) and a meat platter of sausage, patties and pittas, and a huge pile of chargrilled chicken pieces. If you have a table reservation, ignore the queue and go straight in. If you don’t have a booking, prepare yourself for the possibility of a semi-long wait.

11. Retro Lángos

If you’re really hungry and want a delicious, heartwarming snack, you’ve got to try the traditional Hungarian lángos.

This dish hits so many of our guilty-pleasure bliss points and the busy Retro Lángos on Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Way (Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út), one of the main arterial streets through the Pest side of Budapest, is a lángos specialist.

Somewhere between a pizza, a donut, a pancake and okonomiaki, lángos is a flat puffy crunchy disc of deep-fried dough covered in your choice of toppings. These usually start with a base of sour cream and Retro Lángos offers everything from turkey, tomato and mozzarella to spicy Mexican chilli.

The Hungarian lángos we both order, with sour cream, roasted bacon pieces, red onion and grated cheese, are not only formidable, but incredibly satisfying.

12. Széchenyi Thermal Bath House

Strictly speaking, not a bar or restaurant per se, this magnificent thermal bathhouse inside the Neo-Baroque palace built specifically to house the baths in 1909 is a must-visit while you’re in Budapest (here’s our full review of the Széchenyi Thermal Bath House).

While you’re here, you can pick up snacks and drinks from the cafeteria, but that’s not why we’ve included this venue here.

One of the private bathing options here is the Thermal Beer Spa, where you can relax in 36°C water infused with hops, yeast and malted grain. And for the 45 minutes that you’re soaking in your beery wooden tubs, you can pour yourself as many glasses of local lager from the tap next to you as you like!

Bonus food!

Kürtöskalács (you might’ve seen it as kurtosh) or ‘chimney cake’ is a popular sweet you can find all over Budapest, mostly from little food vans.

Built in a spiral shape, this tasty snack is in fact a kind of cake that’s twisted into a helix shape then cooked until crisp. It’s called chimney cake because when it’s hot, steam pours out the top like a chimney.

You can get a variety of coatings on the outside of your Kürtöskalács and some are filled with things like cream too. I can’t remember what we had, but it was tasty and fun to eat.

Kürtöskalács is – or was – specific to Transylvanian Hungarians (now Romania) and goes back to at least the 1600s.

The post Feeling Hungary? Where and what to eat and drink in Budapest appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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We love exploring new cities, and although Christina and I have transited through Vienna many times, we’ve never had time to leave the airport and see it.

But on our train journey across Europe, we were able to stop in on this fascinating city, a centre point of so much history and culture.

Click here for our full Essential Guide of Vienna.

Find out more about activities and tours you can do in Austria’s capital here.

Check out the best deals on hotels in Vienna!

And as we discovered while we were there, Vienna also has an excellent variety of things to eat.

Here are ten places to eat and drink in Vienna Old Town west of the Danube.

Coffee And Breakfast In Vienna

If you’re not in a hotel that includes breakfast in Vienna, you might be in trouble. Things don’t seem to open very early here, so you might be better off hitting the supermarket and having something ready for the morning.

Having said that, there are coffee options.

Caffe Delia’s – 8 Tuchlauben, Vienna

This cute cafe with outdoor seating does great coffee in the day and is the perfect spot for a cheeky glass of wine in the evening.

We took advantage of both offerings as well as the excellent people-watching thanks to the cafe’s corner location.

Surrounded by historic architecture and indeed within a beautiful baroque building, Caffe Delia’s is an easy must.

Fenster Cafe – Griechengasse 10, Vienna

Translating as ‘window cafe’, this tiny venue isn’t much more than a hole in the wall. Fenster Cafe turns out probably the best coffee we had in Vienna and it’s also open before 10am, which makes it doubly important.

However, prepare to pay a premium (two small flat white coffees for AU$15 in 2022). This is in part because it’s in the Old Town and because of its opening hours.

More to the point, Fenster caught Instagram’s attention when it started offering coffee served in an ice cream cone. I have no idea how much that would’ve been. We just went for cups.

Lunch And Daytime Drinks In Vienna

Billa Corso Neuer Markt – Herrnhuterhaus, Neuer Markt 17, Vienna

Only a couple of blocks back from Stephansplatz on Neuer Market is a Billa Corso. This is a ubiquitous supermarket chain all over Austria, but a bit like Eataly’s supermarket cafes, you can buy your lunch an eat it here too.

It has outdoor seating too, but best of all it’s open on Sunday (a miracle in Vienna Old Town) and it’s open before 10am too!

Buffet Trzesniewski Dorotheergasse – Dorotheergasse 1, Vienna

Trzesniewski has to be one of the most unique lunch options in Vienna. This is a buffet shop that offers finger-food style open sandwiches. Narrow bread slices with toppings all finely chopped into a paste, the rationale is that they’re easy to eat.

Almost in the shadow of St Stephen’s Cathedral, (though there are other branches in the city) this sandwich shop offers 25 varieties of sandwich.

It’s a concept that started in 1902 when Polish expat Franciszek Trzesniewski opened his first store and it’s still hugely popular today. All toppings are freshly prepared on the day.

Choose from things like apple and beetroot and Swedish herring with cucumber and egg or more traditional toppings like cucumber, egg and salami or fan favourite bacon and egg.

Rochus – Landstraßer Hauptstraße 55/57, Vienna

Although this is outside the Old Town walls, this lively local bar and restaurant is a cracker and made an ideal lunch spot for us.

With good beer, even better atmosphere and real Austrian comfort food on offer, this is a perfect lunch choice. My wienerschnitsel was tasty and satisfying, and Christina’s kalbsbutterschnitzel (a veal schnitzel patty) was tasty albeit a tad weird.

Evening And Dinner Options

L’Osteria Wien Bräunerstraße – Bräunerstraße 11, Vienna

Within the grand baroque walls of the Palais Pallavicini, this busy Italian-style eatery is really popular with the locals, so book a table.

We didn’t, but managed to squeeze in at the bar for a cheeky mezzo litro carafe of Moltepulciano.

Amazing for people-watching and perfect if you’re feeling like a formidable Napolitano style pizza, make sure you add L’Osteria Wien Bräunersraße to your list.

Reinthaler’s Beisl – Dorotheergasse 2-4, Vienna

I only include this one as both a seeming must-do as a tourist in Vienna and a cautionary tale.

Traditionally, a beisl is a kind of down-to-earth pub serving homely food at reasonable prices.

Reinthaler’s Beisl just off Stephansplatz is ostensibly that, with all the trimmings of a Viennese ale house. But once you’ve found your way to the end of the perma-queue, you’re fed into what I called ‘Vienna’s premier sausage factory’.

Staff churn through the covers, squeezing you onto a shared table, forcing you to order as soon as you sit down, then slopping the food in front of you as it comes out at soup kitchen speeds.

The wait staff then stand over you with the eftpos machine, literally asking you how much you’re going to tip on top of the surprisingly not-reasonable bill.

The food’s not bad, but it’s more about the experience I guess.

Bars

1010 Bar Cafe – Plankengasse 2, Vienna

This dim-lit atmospheric little bar does great cocktails and has a wonderful local vibe with a real mix of patrons.

Just off Neuer Markt plaza and next to the interesting Donnerbrunnen Fountain, it’s well worth seeking out this tucked-away bohemian speakeasy if you’re feeling like an excellent martini or house negroni.

Billa Corso Hoher Markt rooftop wine bar – Hoher Markt 12, Vienna

About halfway between the canal and St Stephen’s Cathedral is another Billa Corso (I told you they were ubiquitous) right opposite the Hotel Topazz Lamee.

Although this store does all the same kind of things the other Billas do, this one also has a wine bar above it.

Here, you can choose from the wine list or, amazingly, you can buy the bottle you want in the store downstairs and they’ll serve it to you at the bar!

Le Cru—Comptoir de Champagne – Peterspl. 8, Vienna

Barely a block back from the busy plaza of Stephansplatz and in the shadow of the pretty domed roof of St Peters Church, Le Cru has a surprisingly local low-key vibe.

Specialising in small producers of French Champagne, this little bar offers tasting experiences and takeaways, but also has a weekly by-the-glass menu that’s pleasingly affordable.

Bonus: Late-night snacks and drinks

Zum Goldenen Wurstel – Spiegelgasse 1, Vienna

As you’d hope, sausage vans are everywhere in Vienna, but Zum Goldenen Wurstel, close to St Stephens Cathedral, has to be the most popular.

Open late, it’s just the ticket when you’ve had a few beers and are wandering back to your hotel but you feel like a snack. You can even grab a beer here too.

The only downside is the boggling range of options that you just don’t get with a sausage sizzle or regular hotdog van: with bread, without bread, which sausage (there are at least 16), do you want it grilled or boiled, with onions, chips on the side, with sauce, which sauce… it’s quite overwhelming.

But it’s worth it!

Are croissants from France or Austria?

To elaborate the claim we made earlier, yes, it seems that the famous croissant, an icon of French cuisine, has its origins in Austria.

From as far back as the 13th Century, Austrian bakers have been making kipfel or kipfli, the progenitor of the famed crescent of buttery flaky pastry.

Settling in Paris in 1839, an Austrian soldier named August Zang opened a Viennese bakery and made his brioche-based kipfel for the French, who took it on with great enthusiasm.

But it wasn’t until the early 20th Century that the croissant recipe changed from brioche to the butter-laminated yeast dough bakers use today.

The post Where To Eat In Vienna Old Town appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Sitting on a geological fault line separating the Buda Hills and the Great European Plain, Budapest has over 100 geothermal hot springs pouring mineral-rich water into its midst.

The Romans spotted it first, building many public baths around the city. And over the centuries, more have come and gone.

Probably the most famous of the public hot spring baths of Budapest—Széchenyi Baths—is well worth the visit.

Visiting Széchenyi Baths, Budapest

We arrive at the grand entrance of the Széchenyi Baths—it’s pronounced “sey-che-nyee” by the way—after exploring the beautiful and expansive City Park.

The domed roofs and pillared halls of this impressive building give an impression of a museum or even a palace rather than public baths.

But built in the 1920s and named after a prominent Hungarian family, the Széchenyi Baths show clues about their purpose as soon as you walk in.

We notice the mermaids and sea monsters decorating the arched walls and lofty ceilings of the entrance hall. Statues, frescos, reliefs and even Roman style mosaics peer down at us as we approach the reception desk.

The tickets we buy get us into the baths, but we also invest in a private changing room, a pair of Széchenyi Baths branded flipflops, which are ours to keep (footwear is mandatory around the complex) and a towel, which we can also take home.

There’s also an option to buy swimwear here, so you really can arrive with nothing and still enjoy these baths.

Check out our story on what a river cruise on the Danube is really worth it!

Inside the Széchenyi Baths—outdoor leisure pool

Once we’re through the turnstile, we notice the aesthetic change to be more utilitarian than the opulent Art Nouveau of the baths’ entrance. But we quickly change and head to the main outside pool.

At the steps into the vast central atrium we stop and stare.

The pool here is more like a lagoon. Chest-deep water flows and ripples around the splashing crowds enjoying the naturally heated water.

In the centre is a rapid that lifts you off your feet and zooms you round in a wide circle. From the low walls surrounding this rapid are giant gushing faucets that release a jet flow of water on the back and shoulders of any who feel like a massage.

We leave our towels and shoes on an empty lounger and hop into the warm water.

As we relax, the sheer beauty of where we are sinks in. From this perspective, the building, painted butter yellow, looks even more palatial than when we walked in.

Two storeys of delicately arched and pillared verandas look out over us and crenelated towers peep from the flat roofs. And domes and spired cupolas add to the growing feeling that we’ve gone back in time to an age when soaking in the city’s public baths was a cornerstone of civilised society.

Inside the Széchenyi Baths—indoor treatment pools

After we’ve soaked for a while, we decide to don our flip-flops and explore more of the building. Inside is room after room of pools. The baths themselves are quite plain to look at, but each one has a unique feature.

With all different ranges in temperature or rich in different minerals, you soak in a particular pool that matches your ailment.

The water coming up through the earth’s crust via the St Stephen Well—the second deepest well in Budapest—has a wealth of health-related minerals. Calcium, magnesium, hydro-carbonate, sodium and sulphate, and a significant fluoride and metaboric acid content too.

The drinking water here also has healing virtues: calcium, magnesium, hydro-carbonate, chloride, sulphate, also containing alcalics and a substantial amount of fluoride.

You can see the various things the water here can help with on the baths’ site I have no idea what most of these compounds are btw!

Some of the baths smell pretty bad and others have a very gloomy feel. The few we go into don’t feel very healthy in spite of all their minerals, and we’re keen to get back to the fresh air of the outdoor pool.

Have a Dip in the Beer Spa

If what ails you isn’t bone or joint related, but is more of a gourmand nature, you might want to have a crack at the Beer Spa!

You’re given your own private tub (or you can share it with one other person) and the tub’s filled with warm geothermic water at 36°C as well as real beer, which is considered good for your skin.

Between the two tubs is also a beer tap, where you can pull as many glasses beer as you like while you’re bathing.

If this is your thing, get your beer spa tickets here.

Other services at Széchenyi Baths

There are plenty of there things you can do here at Széchenyi Baths.

The list of day spa treatments you can have here is almost endless.

From basic detox and aromatherapy massages to a full package that includes your own private room with day beds, massage treatments, cocktails and snacks, and private shower room, you can easily spend all day here.

And don’t forget the range of saunas available to everyone.

If you get hungry or thirsty while you’re here, there is a simple cafe where you can buy basic snacks and drinks too. The cafe looks out over the outdoor pool.

The Széchenyi Baths are well worth a visit while you’re in Budapest, so make sure you budget at least half a day to come here. I wasn’t keen at first to be honest, but I’m so glad Christina managed to persuade me.

It’s an wonderful piece of the puzzle to this fascinating European city.

The post The One Thing Everyone Told Us To Do In Budapest appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

When I think of Vienna, my imagination goes to the tall powdered wigs and giant bustles of rococo ballgowns twirling to the operatic music of 18th Century court life.

In reality, Vienna is a busy modern city, whose culture and elegance goes far beyond the rich halls of its multitude palaces.

Check out our super-quick video dash through Vienna:

Vienna’s streets create city canyons in the white cliff facades of Baroque and Art Nouveau, their cobbles leading you to hidden churches or presenting the grandeur of a palace or cathedral. But also the banks of the Danube, alleys of antique shops and of course the amazing food.

Bakeries glow with the promise of bread and pastry, while busy late-night würstelständs proffer sausages and beer from their huts on the edge of broad plazas.

And there’s always more to find.

Museums and galleries, Roman ruins and chic shopping malls, fine dining and cool bars, and even one of the world’s oldest amusement parks—Prater Amusement Park dates back to 1766—are all here for your enjoyment.

Essential Guide to Vienna, Austria

Obviously, this is not an exhaustive guide, but it has the highlights of the things we experienced when we were in Vienna last.

We’ve broken things down into five sections to make the guide easier to navigate. You can click on each of these headings to go straight to each one.

1. Where to Stay
2. Where to Eat and Drink
3. Things to See and Do
4. Getting Around
5. Top Tips

1. Where to Stay

– Hotel Graben

Packed to its exposed rafters with old-world charm, Hotel Graben feels like you’ve stepped into a time machine. In a good way.

Rooms are huge (for Europe!) with double-height ceilings and big windows, the concierge and reception are so friendly and the adjoining restaurant–Santo Stefano–is busy with visitors and locals most evenings.

It’s also brilliantly located right off Stephansplatz, the main plaza of Vienna old town, and the beautiful St Stephen’s Cathedral. This means it’s also really close to the city’s U-Bahn subway system.

– Hotel Topazz & Lamee

Also close to Stephansplatz, this cool, modern hotel and its striking round windows offers a contemporary yet sophisticated place to stay in Vienna.

Across the street is the hotel’s bar—a rooftop bar in fact, with amazing views over the city from the ninth floor.

Where to Eat and Drink

For a deeper dive into where to eat and drink in Vienna, check out our Viennese foodie story here!

– Caffe Delia’s

This cute cafe with outdoor seating does great coffee in the day and is the perfect spot for a cheeky glass of wine in the evening. Excellent people-watching and surrounded by historic architecture.

– Fenster Cafe

Literally ‘window cafe’, this hole-in-the-wall cafe became Insta-famous for its somewhat impractical coffee in an ice cream cone fad. Cashing in on this—and the fact that it’s the only coffee place open before 10am—two small flat whites will set you back AU$15. The coffee’s made well at least.

– L’Osteria Wien Bräunerstraße

Busy Italian-style eatery with wines from Italy (we sneaked a cheeky mezzo litro carafe of Moltepulciano up at the bar) great for people-watching. The pizzas look formidable.

– Billa Corso Neuer Markt

Not far from Hotel Graben is a Billa Corso—a ubiquitous Austrian supermarket chain—where, a bit like Eataly’s supermarket cafes, you can buy your lunch an eat it there. It has outdoor seating too, but best of all it’s open on a Sunday!

– Trzesniewski

Perhaps one of the most unique food options in Vienna is Trzesniewski—a sandwich buffet shop next to Graben Hotel in Stephansplatz (there are other branches in the city). Going back to 1902, this shop sells finger rolls and narrow-cut open sandwiches topped with all kinds of ingredients, all of which are very finely chopped into a paste. You go in, choose your sarnies and leave.

– Le Cru – Comptoir de Champagne

Barely a block back from busy Stephansplatz and in the shadow of the pretty domed roof of St Peters Church, Le Cru has a surprisingly local low-key vibe. Specialising in small producers of French Champagne, this little bar offers tasting experiences and takeaways, but also has a weekly by-the-glass menu that’s pleasingly affordable.

– 1010 Bar Cafe

Dark, conspiratorially atmospheric little bar. Great cocktails and vibe with a real mix of patrons. Just off Neuer Markt plaza and the Donnerbrunnen fountain, it’s worth seeking out this tucked-away bohemian speakeasy for an excellent martini or house negroni.

– Billa Corso Hohe Markt rooftop wine bar

A couple of streets north of Stephansplatz is another Billa Corso (I told you they were ubiquitous) right opposite the Hotel Topazz Lamee we mentioned. This store has a wine bar above it. You can choose from the wine list or, amazingly, you can buy the bottle you want in the store and they’ll serve it to you.

– Rochus

Beyond the walls of the old town, this pumping local bar and eatery was the perfect lunch spot for us. Good beer and food my wienerschnitsel was tasty and satisfying and Christina’s kalbsbutterschnitzel (a veal schnitzel patty) was tasty albeit a tad weird.

– Reinthaler’s Beisl

A beisl is a kind of down-to-earth gastro pub serving homely food at reasonable prices. Reinthaler’s Beisl off Stephansplatz is ostensibly that, though the staff churn through the perma-queue, forcing diners to share tables only to stand over them for a tip at the end. The food’s not bad, but it’s more about the experience I guess.

– Zum Goldenen Wurstel

Sausage vans are everywhere in Austria, but Zum Goldenen Wurstel, close to St Stephens Cathedral, must be the most popular. Open late, it’s the perfect place for a snack on your way home. You can even grab a beer here.

Things to See and Do

– Get lost

Vienna’s a great walking city. Even within the walls of the old town, little streets and alleys will have you turning this way and that, discovering strange and wonderful things you would probably miss if you knew where you were going. So let your feet lead you.

Alternatively, there are local guides that can take you on private walking tours like this that are amazing.

– Stephansplatz and the cathedral tower

The heart of Vienna Old Town, the long, broad thoroughfare of Stephansplatz is full of life—especially on a Saturday night. Climb to the top of the beautiful St Stephens Cathedral tower for panoramic city views.

And make sure you check out the looming and somewhat disturbing Wiener Pestsäule—the Column of Pestilence. It’s a memorial to the victims of the Black Death that swept through 17th Century Europe.

– Antiques shops south of Stephansplatz

Down the network of little streets and alleys from Stephansplatz—especially Dorotheergasse past Hotel Graben—are hundreds of pretty little antiques shops and museums that add another level of charm to this fascinating city.

– Naschmarkt

Vienna’s largest outdoor market, the permanent stalls of Naschmarkt take up almost half a kilometre of streets just outside the old town walls. Explore delicious food from around the world and a range of souvenirs too. The closest metro station is Kettenbruckengasse.

There are also food safaris like this you can book for the market.

– Hundertwasserhaus

For something a little left of field, there’s the weirdness of Hundertwasserhaus on the east of the city near the canal. Its creator, oddball artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser focused on nonconformity and this building shows that. Wobbly floors, brightly painted walls and a wealth of his art boggles the eyes, mind and senses.

– Museums and palaces

Vienna is packed with museums and palaces, but in the southwest of the old town is the MuseumsQuartier, where you’ll find some of Europe’s finest. Nearby, the sprawling Hofburg Palace has the revered Spanish Riding School and some interesting Roman ruins on its grounds where the Habsburg Empire once ran most of Europe for over six centuries.

Getting Around

– Vienna is a wonderful walking city. It’s pretty much flat until you get to the low mountains way to the north and west, so exploring Vienna on foot is a great option. You can also book local guides for walking tours like this one.

– The underground metro system is comprehensive, efficient and easy to navigate. Trains run regularly from the airport to the city, via Wien Mitte and a transfer to Landstrasse Station.

When we arrived by train from Germany, we arrived at Wien Hbf and from there it was a quick metro train right to Stephansplatz—one of the two stations within the old town walls.

– Travelling outside the Old Town, your best options are the city trams, which cover a huge area around the city.

– To use all the different public transport options in Vienna, you’ll need a City Card. This was super useful for the couple of days we were there and it’s pretty cheap too. It also gives you discounts on loads of attractions, exhibits and entertainment.

Top Tips

– Try not to visit Vienna on a Sunday; everything’s shut.

– If you are here on a Sunday, head to the Heurigen—Austrian wine taverns that are part of the wine regions surrounding Vienna.

Just 30min from city on the tram direct to Grinzing north west of Old Town Vienna, you’ll find yourself in the city’s wine region. Make sure you’ve got your City Pass so you can use the public transport though.

– Best views of the city for free

On the northern bank of the Danube Canal, on the rooftop of the Sofitel SO is Das Loft. It’s a restaurant and bar, but if you’re discreet, you can go up and have a look round for free.

The views out over the city and canal are amazing.

If you want to eat here, you must have a reservation or risk being sneered at by the help. No, the staff here are not very friendly I’m afraid.

– How to get cheap tickets to the opera

Around the side of the Vienna State Opera, you’ll find a surprisingly well-marked door reading ‘Stehplatz’ or Standing Room. To make the opera more affordable for the masses, the State Opera made standing-room tickets available you can pick up for as little as €4. Here are more details.

These are just some of the many attractions and activities that Vienna has to offer that we enjoyed.

Whether you’re interested in history, art, music or food, you’re sure to find something to suit your interests in this beautiful European city.

The post Your Essential Guide to Vienna – where to go and what do in Austria’s capital city appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Frankfurt is well known for its commerce, banks and financial district, but beyond the suits and skyscrapers hides an excellent food scene that deserves our attention.

And yes, the legendary frankfurter (full name Frankfurter Würstchen) does come from here—in fact its heritage has been protected by law since 1860—but there’s a lot more to Frankfurt’s culinary offerings than that.

Find the best places to stay in Frankfurt at great prices here.

Here are some of the places we found and loved when Christina and I were in Frankfurt.

Oh, and if you want to know more about how the frankfurter has evolved to become the ubiquitous hotdog, click here.

Bakeries in Frankfurt

Germans love their baked goods. And I mean love, and Frankfurt is no exception. It’s impossible to walk anywhere in the city without passing a bakery packed with delicious looking pastries, breads and sweet treats.

Strahmann – this small bakery and sandwich shop has a very tempting range of tasty sandwiches, soups and salads perfect for a quick lunch snack. Strahmann has two shops, both in Frankfurt city.

Zeit für Brot – a small chain with half a dozen stores across Germany with a name that says it all: ‘Time for Bread’. If you find any of the three in Frankfurt and you’re feeling hungry for baked goods, check it out. The sandwiches they sell here are great.

But what’s even better is the Zeit für Brot website and its product page. It’s got the name in German with descriptions in English with photos and even cross sections! Helpful when you’re in any bakery in Germany.

Kaiserzeit – these big bakeries (it’s a chain with stores throughout southern Germany) have so many food options. My favourite are the breakfast bagels.

Finally, Der Bäcker Eifler. Instead of a Starbucks or Maccas on every corner, expect to see the immediately recognisable red and yellow Comic Sans signs of these bakeries wherever you go.

Der Bäcker Eifler is a huge bakery chain with almost 70 stores in Frankfurt alone. And for a chain, it’s not bad. You know what you’re going to get and it’s reasonably priced.

Cafes

We were surprised at how good the coffee in Germany is—much better than places you’d expect it to be good like France or Belgium. Most bakeries can do an ok latte, but these two coffee-focused stores really know what they’re doing.

Why! Specialty Coffee – this place, just down the road from Frankfurt’s main train station, does amazing coffee, to the point where we didn’t feel homesick for a flat white once. However, it’s only open weekdays.

Bunca – Also not far from the station, this cafe knows what it’s doing, but it’s not as good as Why!. The big difference here though is it’s open over the weekend.

Markets

If there’s one thing synonymous with Europe, it’s great markets, and Frankfurt stands out here for all the right reasons.

Erzeugermarkt – Frankfurt’s biggest farmers market (‘bauernmarkt’) set in the central square of Konstablerwache at the end of the Zeil shopping mile, Erzeugermarkt is a grown-up’s playground of craft beer and wine, but also all kinds of artisan produce, food, flowers and crafts. It’s been running every Thursday and Saturday afternoons since 1989.

Schillermarkt on Schillerstrasse – this all-day street market (8am-6pm) runs every Friday near the Frankfurt stock exchange. The market takes over at laneway lined with beautiful buildings and transforms the city’s serious, financial hub into a place of fun, food and relaxation.

Kleinmarkthalle – this big undercover market with over 60 stalls offering everything from fresh fruit, veg and meat to flowers, bread and cheese. Upstairs on the mezzanine are little bars and cafes and a full restaurant on the veranda at the back, all of which using produce from the market or their own artisanal products.

Bars

Germany is well known for its love of libations and its ability to house them in venues that make you want to stay for more time than you have. Frankfurt has more than its fair share of bars, but here are a few we really enjoyed.

Plank – this late-night bar has a real local vibe but is very friendly and sells everything from your basic beer and wine to more complex cocktails. During the day, it’s also a cafe, though we didn’t try the coffee here. Open roughly 10am-2am every day.

Eschenheimer Warte at Eschunheimer Turm – a street-side bar perfect for people-watching housed in a pretty roofed tower that dates back to 1300s when Frankfurt was a walled city.

The tower—Eschunheimer Turm—is one of only three remaining gate towers and was once a jail much like the Tower of London. It now hosts the toilets, which are up a long spiral staircase, so factor that into your timings!

Fenstergucker in Sachsenhausen district – a cosy little tavern full of locals who insist on smoking inside still. But it’s got a great atmosphere nonetheless.

One of the oldest remaining parts of Frankfurt that dates back to the 1100s, the Sachsenhausen district is right on the south bank of the river. This has become an entertainment district of sorts and the street that Fenstergucker is on (Große Rittergasse) has a great party vibe.

While you’re here, look out for venues with wreaths on the doors. These are the last remaining breweries that are allowed to make and serve their own apfelwein—a kind of cider that’s specific to Frankfurt.

Gioia – a nice little beer garden off the main drag but also close to bar-packed Sachsenhausen district, Gioia is ideal for a pitstop and served us well on our long hike through the city.

Not to be missed

Although the places we’ve mentioned so far are great, these next three were standouts for us, more for the style of food than anything.

Wirsthaus im Ostend – a modern yet typical Frankfurt eatery, Wirsthaus im Ostend serves classic German dishes without any pretension but cooked perfectly. Christina’s classic Frankfurt schnitzel was crisp yet tender, and extremely tasty and came with Frankfurt-centric grüne sosse (green sauce), while my pork knuckle was as immense as it was satisfying.

What you’d expect to be an overly touristy place is in fact more popular with locals. I think we were the only non-German speakers there.

TonBul Grill – Turkish kebabs have become hugely popular in Germany (they’re more like the English kebabs than the Lebanese style ones in Australia) and one of the most popular is TonBul Grill.

The queue snakes down the street but you’re only there for about 10mins. You choose your kebab type then order from the window along with salad, sauce etc. It’s a bit nerve-wracking when you order, but the staff are patient and friendly.

You can eat in if you can find a space or just take away. Don’t forget to grab some green chillies from the big bucket.

Die Fromagerie – Run by Frenchman Alexandre Allemany from Bordeaux, this wonderland is an ode to everything cheese, from raclette to sandwiches, this is the place you come when you’re really hungry!

The post Beyond the frankfurter – what and where to eat in Frankfurt, Germany appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.