Cuba has been heralded as making the finest cigars in the world for centuries. Its rich, dark volcanic soil, tropical climate, and traditional farming and production methods produce beautiful cigars that are more like works of art – a point of consternation every time I light one.

When would you normally set fire to artwork that you love?

On our last trip to Cuba, we visited the Partagas factory in Havana. It was incredible to see the rollers (known as torcedores) carefully crafting each cigar.

The finishing touch is gluing the label around the cigar with a traditional plant-based adhesive.

Check out our video from Cuba, where we took to the Cuban cigar trail around Havana:

Click here to watch this video on YouTube.

My favourite cigar brand, Montecristo, gets its name from Alexandre Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo. It was the torcedores’ favourite story, read to them by a ‘lector’ to entertain them as they worked.

This cigar company (and others like Romeo y Julieta) pay homage to its literary roots in its label. The royal fleur de lis on Montecristo cigar bands and the crossed swords on the box logos are both nods to the book.

But these beautiful labels on premium cigars do more than merely decorate or talk of heritage and provenance.

They have other functions too.

Spotting a fake Cuban cigar

Other than price, the packaging is probably the best pointer to a fake cigar.

Check out our story on spotting fake Cuban cigars here.

So apart from marketing and branding purposes, cigar companies developed evermore elaborate designs to reduce counterfeits.

But in spite of labels being increasingly more difficult to copy, re-labeled fakes are rife throughout the world.

By the 1950s, the owner of Cuban brand Cabañas reckoned: “for every one of the two million Cuban cigars I ship to Europe, six million are sold there.”

It’s another reason to only buy from reputable companies or – if possible – from sanctioned shops in Cuba itself.

The downside to this of course is that the Cuban government owns and controls all the cigar shops and even the factories, so you’re giving money to a corrupt power.

Every silver lining has its cloud, I suppose.

How old is your cigar?

In this on-going battle against fraudulent cigars, brands update the labels regularly. Some, like Cohiba – the most expensive, prestigious and therefore most copied cigar brand – dink their cigar bands almost every other year, or so it seems.

Changes like this are both a worry and a joy to cigar enthusiasts.

Firstly, when your band looks different to what you’re used to, you fret that you’ve bought a fake cigar. On the other hand, it makes dating your cigars relatively easy.

Aged cigars can be very valuable. And like high-quality wines, well-kept fine cigars develop and mature over time.

As you can see, these three Montecristo cigars each have a slightly different band and are from very different ‘vintages’.

The lighter colour and no embossing means this cigar was made between 2003 and 2006 when Montecristo changed their labels. I bought this one in around 2005.

A darker, glossier label and an embossed insignia comes from between 2006 and 2013. This one is from about 2011.

Larger and much darker label with a gold foil embossed fleur de lis is the current line started in 2013. I was given this cigar as a birthday present in 2015.

If you have one that doesn’t look like any of these, it could be from anywhere between 1940s to 2003. Or perhaps a special edition.

With plain packaging laws covering up cigar bands, it’s hard to even see the branding. Or to tell if what you buy is real. Most of the time, the ugly brown stickers can come off revealing the original label beneath.

But pealing off a label isn’t going to go down too well with the shopkeeper.

Check out the Cuban Cigar Website – an impressive depository of many Cuban brands’ labels through the years – if you’re not sure.

As for my three examples, the ageing process is going well. Keeping them in a relative humidity of 70% in a temperature-controlled cedar-lined humidor has done wonders.

The oldest smells completely different to the other two – richer, deeper and more fragrant. I’m looking forward to finding out how it tastes!

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Cuba’s fascinating cultural make-up, its political stance and its recent history has made this Caribbean island nation a unique travel destination.

It’s almost impossible to put your camera down as you explore Havana’s streets. The capital’s crumbling elegance, the Cubanos’ easy-going nature and the omnipresent beat of salsa and rumba music, not to mention the incredible quality of light here, are infectious.

It’s a recipe that makes you want to try again and again to capture the moment that sums up Cuba. It’s an impossible wish of course, but it’s so enchanting, you just can’t stop trying.

Check out our 5-minute video snapshot of Cuba – the city, the country and the beach:

Click here to view the video.

Here are our top tips for shooting in Cuba, plus Christina’s favourite photos from one of our all-time top travel destinations:

Postcards from Cuba

El Capitolio – the National Capitol Building in Havana was built in 1929 and was modelled on the Washington Capitol building. After extensive renovations, it has just re-opened after being abandoned by Castro as a sign of capitalism.

Old cannons are used as bollards in Habana Vieja – Old Havana – where you can get lost in the cobbled streets.

In 2014, I wandered past this tree at night, and then on our last trip, I found it in the day. It grows ever taller from the buildings, and its leaves provide a dappled light to the streets of Old Havana.

As a mini project, I began to photograph street signs for Jim to include in a video. It’s so easy to navigate Havana, and there are lots of signs and a grid street layout. A mini project like this can help you to notice the small details, which really bring a place to life.

So many of Havana’s buildings are in a bad way, but there’s colour everywhere.

Wires follow their own path around Habana Vieja. Take care when using “power showers” too as you might get a shock…

Art deco lights and pretty painted tiled signs adorn the corner of Calle Habana.

Calle Cuba cuts the length of Habana Vieja

Calle Obispo dates back to 1519, and was a shady path through the centre of Havana. Now it’s one of the most popular streets, busy day and night, with tourists and locals alike (and more than a few hustlers too)

5 tips for photography in Cuba

1. Be respectful

Ask for permission to photograph people if you’re working on your street photography. “¿Permiso?” (‘Permission?’) will result in a nod or a shake of the head, or also likely a proffered hand. Tipping a few CUCs will leave both parties happy.

Just because the scene is amazing and you really want that photograph of a local, remember what it’s like if someone aims a camera at you without asking.

2. Shoot early in the morning

If you just want photos of the architecture without tourists and or locals in your shot, just after sunrise is best. It’s calm and quiet even in the busiest parts of the capital. You’ll also be rewarded with a gentle, glowing light as the sun comes up.

3. Hit town at Golden Hour

Golden Hour – that time in the early evening when the sun’s setting and the yellows and reds really pop – is a well-known photography favourite. In Cuba, you get remarkable effects at this time of day, and it’s also great for lively street photography.

Golden Hour and Blue Hour change from day to day and place to place. This impressive app by AlpenGlow tells you exactly when and where the light will be every day.

4. Be careful what you’re shooting

Each country has different rules, customs and social norms for photography. In Cuba, please do not try to photograph military or police personnel, or government buildings.

You may well be asked to delete the images from your camera or phone, and in some instances the officials have been known to confiscate devices.

Also be aware that if locals ask to have their photos taken with you or by you, they will want money. Not much – just a couple of CUCs – but just so you know. They’re often dressed in bright ‘traditional’ Cuban clothes or toting large cigars, and you’ll see them in busy tourist areas.

5. Bring everything you need with you but be careful what you bring in

Make sure you have everything you need before you go to Cuba. Photography equipment will be expensive if it’s even available or compatible, and the same goes for memory. Don’t rely on internet speeds and availability for back-ups in Cuba either.

Remember that Cuba is still a relatively closed country and they don’t like anything that could be surveillance or media equipment. Don’t try and bring your drone into Cuba – or do so at your own risk. Anecdotal evidence suggests customs officials enjoy confiscating them and other high-tech gear.

Now, on with the postcards!

Strands of garlic for sale in Old Havana. You’ll find lots of small markets being pushed around the small side streets, as you can see in the background.

This postcard from Cuba was definitely inspired by the fabulous photographer, Jilly Bennett. When I noticed this good boy taking a rest, I had to stop and capture this moment.

These ornate rocking chairs will always remind me of Vinales, Cuba. On every verandah, you’ll find a rocking chair where you can relax and watch the world go by. And in the small town of Vinales, you’d be surprised at the wonderful sights you’d see.

My favourite time to shoot is early in the morning. I always felt safe walking alone in the streets of Havana with my camera in hand. I’m guessing that behind this painted door live some very lovely people who care for the neighbourhood stray cats. There was quite a line up waiting for them to get up on this morning.

These cute coconut-shaped 3-wheelers are called Coco taxis and are an inexpensive way to get around Havana.

As the sun sets along the Malecon, fishermen line the sea wall angling for a catch.

Cruising by the Capitol building in Havana, Cuba

On the top floor here you’ll find the only Camera Obscura in Latin America. Invented by Leonardo da Vinci, and best viewed on clear days like this, you’ll see a 360 degree reflection of the city in a mirror.

We love sharing our favourite photos in this ‘Postcards From…’ series. Here are some others.

And if you want more of our stories from Cuba – we have itineraries, guides and information posts all on this beautiful Caribbean nation – click here for our full Cuban library.

Now tell us, which was your favourite out of these postcards? Tell us in the comments below!

The post Postcards from Cuba – and 5 tips for photography in Cuba appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

If Christina and I were to get married again, Cuba would the place we’d choose for our honeymoon. It’s such a beautiful country, full of mystery and romance.

Though I should also say if you’re looking for a holiday just relaxing by the beach or five-star service while you lounge by the pool of your resort, Cuba might not be the place for you. Even the most luxurious place in Cuba isn’t going to match more developed destinations. And we’d recommend perhaps following up this adventurous itinerary with a relaxing week in Tulum in Mexico.

However, everything Cuba is famous for – its music, its architecture, its enigmatic history and culture – all make a fascinating travel destination.

Add to that scenery that leaves you breathless and a coastline girt by the crystal blue of the Caribbean, and you have a truly remarkable place to celebrate with your new spouse.

There’s so much to see in Cuba it’s hard to know where to start and what to do.

From the times we’ve been there, we’ve put together an itinerary of the most romantic and interesting parts to help you plan the best holiday you should ever have.

For more of our stories on Cuba, click here.

How to honeymoon in Cuba – the perfect itinerary

Days 1-3: Havana

Exploring Havana has to be one of the best things you can do in Cuba. Simply getting lost in the old part of city is an adventure and a thrill.

Wonder at the crumbling beauty of the city and its amazing blend of architecture. Walk the Malecon – the ancient sea wall of the city – at sunset and see the locals fishing and meeting up. Enjoy a cubata or a mojito in the grounds of the Hotel Nacionale, where royalty and dignitaries have stayed.

Walking tour of Havana Viejo

Booking a walking tour of Old Havana really helps to get a sense of the city and of Cuba as a whole. The local guide leads you through the most important parts of town, including Hemingway’s favourite hotel, the cathedral square and the Capital Building.

Make sure you return to Hemingway’s hotel – the Hotel Ambos Mundos – for a drink on the rooftop. It’s iconic.

Days 4-6: Vinales

Vinales has changed a fair bit since our first trip here in 2014, but it’s still a beautiful rustic country town in the most important tobacco-growing region in Cuba. Its backdrop of the Organos Mountains and the national park to the west is stunning.

The town of Vinales has grown to a lively main street full of restaurants and bars, though it’s common to see an old horse-drawn cart trundle down the road or the occasional chicken peck its way across.

Horse ride and tobacco field tour

Visiting the tobacco fields of this region is a must and the best way to do so is on horseback. You can trek through the national park to meet the tobacco growers, but this is better.

Meeting the farmers, seeing the tobacco growing and learning about the process it goes through before being crafted into fine cigars, perhaps trying a ‘farmer cigar’ as you ride through the fields… it’s a very special experience.

Here’s more on the best way to see Cuba – on horseback through cigar tobacco fields.

180km southwest of Havana, the best way to Vinales is by car. You should be able to book a taxi there through your accommodation.

Days 7-9: Cayo Levisa

From Vinales, it’s a bumpy windy drive from Vinales to Palma Rubia on the north coast of Cuba where you catch the ferry across to Cayo Levisa. And you have to time it right, with ferries not leaving that regularly.

But once there, you realise the effort’s worth it.

Cayo Levisa – a pearl of an island in the Caribbean – is simply beautiful. Clean, white sandy beaches lead to the lapping warm waters. This is the real relaxation time for your honeymoon. This is 100% romance.

There is only one place to stay on the island – Hotel Cayo Levisa – but the rooms are surprisingly big. Stand-alone villas with verandas, the rooms are all connected via a long boardwalk that also takes you down to the private beach.

Day-trippers come onto the island, but they are only allowed access to certain parts of the island, which means hotel’s beach is quite quiet.

Meals, as with most hotels in Cuba, is buffet style, which is a little disappointing, but no one comes to Cuba for the food.

Here’s more info on Cayo Levisa and what to expect.

Days 10-12: Vedado

Back in Havana – it’s another long bumpy drive east to the capital – the neighbourhood of Vedado is more modern than the beautiful living ruins of Old Havana.

It’s interesting to see how different this less tourist-driven district is, though it borders Central Havana to the east. Visiting local bars, cafés and restaurants in Vedado gives you a little insight into what the real Havana is like.

The Cigar Trail experience

Cuba’s cigars are iconic, but not many people know the details of this luxury good that has deep roots in the native Cuban history. The Cigar Trail private tour, which you can book through Cuban Adventures Cuba Tours, is fascinating.

You get to see inside a working cigar factory, you get a lesson with a cigar sommelier on the art of ‘maridaje’ – marrying Cuban rum and coffee with a fine cigar – and shown a speciality cigar store, and you also get access to a little-known cigar museum in the middle of Old Havana.

For more information on what this tour is like, check out our review and video here.

Where to stay in Cuba

Accommodation in Cuba is a funny thing. There are plenty of big hotels you think would be reasonably-priced, beautiful (especially from exterior appearances) and popular.

However, the opposite is generally true. And we do not recommend them.

Big hotels are owned by the Cuban military or foreign chains. Not only does this mean American visitors are generally not allowed to stay there, but also the money spent in them never gets back to the local people.

Instead, the casa particular system – a kind of homestay/bed and breakfast is the best option in Cuba. Each property is clean, well-run and very safe. You get your own room, bathroom and front door key. And breakfast of course!

Here are our recommendations for casa particulares:

Havana Boutique Hotels offers amazing prices on specialist casas that are more like boutique hotels than home-stays. They offer wholesale rates with no booking or credit card fees, you get real-time availability and instant booking online, and you can pay upfront with a credit card.

We recommend them and the properties highly when you’re looking for where to stay in Havana. We stayed in La Gargola (Havana) and Casa Naty (Vedado) most recently.

In Vinales, Cuban Adventures Cuba Tours organised our stay in Casa mis Cumbres, which we also recommend, though Cuban Adventures may also have other options there you should check.

Again, it’s important to remember that these are not 5-star hotels. They’re locally owned boutiques that offer simple yet comfortable accommodation for adventurous travellers.

Other casas you’ll find are BnBs and homestays at best. They’re a wonderful way to experience Cuba, but they’re not particularly romantic or luxurious in the conventional sense.

Extending your trip further around Cuba

If you have time, we highly recommend extending your trip so you can see more of this extraordinary country.

Through Cuban Adventures Cuba Tours in 2014, we explored further east to Cienfuegos, the Bay of Pigs, Santa Clara and the beautiful UNESCO Heritage town of Trinidad de Cuba.

This was an 8-day tour of Cuba with a small group and a guide that we’ll never forget. For more details on that trip click here.

If you’re looking for a honeymoon you’ll never forget, Cuba is the place for you.

The post How to honeymoon in Cuba – the perfect adventure romance itinerary appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

There’s so much more to Cuba than the populous streets of beautiful Havana. The Cuban countryside is spectacular and riding a horse through the hills and tobacco fields of Vinales, meeting farmers and learning about life outside the cities fascinating.

Our most recent visit to Cuba took us back to Vinales – a town west of Havana that’s famous for 2 things: its mountains and its tobacco.

The majority of the tobacco in Cuba’s legendary cigars is from around Vinales.

It’s possible to hike from town into the tobacco fields, but better than that is to ride a horse there. Not only do you get there quicker and therefore see more, it’s also simply an amazing experience.

Here’s our quick video highlighting our horse ride through the Viñales Valley to the tobacco fields. Make sure you catch the outtakes at the end:

Click here to view the video.

The best way to see Cuba – on horseback through tobacco fields

Vinales

When we first visited Vinales in 2014, it was a little country town with one main street and about 3 blocks back from it where most of the township lived. On that main road, there were 2 restaurants, a shop and a bank.

Now, it’s much busier, with more traffic and more people, but the main street has many paladars and restaurants, the town stretches back further than 3 blocks, and there’s a sense of life here that development always brings.

How to organise and book a horseback tour of Vinales tobacco fields

The casa particular we were staying in – Casa mis Cumbres – is owned by Ridel and Claribel, who also have another property in town plus a couple of restaurants. It’s clear they’re pretty well connected.

In a single phone call, Ridel had organised a private horseback tour, a vehicle pick-up and negotiated a price for us. And for US$50 each, I think he did well by us.

Private horseback tour of Vinales tobacco fields and coffee plantations

Our guide picked us up in a rickety old car that rattled its way across town to his farm. In the paddock at the back, we met our horses.

Christina has had quite a bit of experience with horse-riding recently and was excited about the ride. I hadn’t ridden a horse in quite some time, but our guide placated me with a smile and a single word:

“Automático.”

Christina asked our guide what her horse’s name was.

“Caballo,” he shrugged. Literally ‘horse’.

We saddled up and the three of us clip-clopped out of town and were quickly trekking along the deep red dirt tracks and thick foliage of the Vinales Valley.

This is not an ‘auto-caballo’, but it’s pretty cool, isn’t it?

Coffee and honey in a coffee plantation

Soon we passed the border that marks the start of the Parque de Vinales. The farms within this national park – including the many tobacco fields – must all be organic and use traditional, non-mechanical methods.

After about an hour of spectacular views of the valley and the approaching mountains, which draw climbers from around, we put our ‘auto-caballos’ into park to meet with a local coffee farmer.

First the farmer, whose English was excellent, showed us the coffee plantation that swept away in front of us. He explained the organic methods they use to grow the crops and then showed us the rest of the process.

After drying the beans in the sun on trays, the farmers roast the robusto beans on a blackened cast iron skillet over a wood fire. You can buy whole beans from them or ready-ground coffee, which they also grind manually. Both come in re-used plastic water bottles.

We approve of recycling.

We sat and enjoyed a cup with the farmer and he told us more about the area. He explained they also keep bees here, and that the honey is excellent – especially with the coffee, which is surprisingly smooth.

It was then that he brought out the rum.

Rum that’s not rum

Well, ‘rum’ isn’t the right word for it. Guayabita del Pinar isn’t rum and it isn’t whisky. In fact, there is no word for this liquor, but it’s from this particular region of Cuba.

The origins of Guayabita have been lost, but this manufacturer – La Occidental – started in 1892 in Pinar del Rio, the region’s capital.

Like rum, it’s aged in wooden barrels and made with sugar, but also the fruit from a kind of dwarf guava tree only found here. It’s smooth, fruity surprisingly light. And it makes a superb mojito!

To the tobacco fields

Feeling refreshed, we remount and trot on to our next stop: the tobacco fields.

The narrow path we’re following soon opens out onto broad expanses of fields full of plants between a foot and 5 feet tall. They’re all tobacco plants. And they’re all growing with one purpose in mind: the finest cigars in the world.

We make our way to a thicket of trees and the farm’s rustic homestead. Our horses parked again, we meet the farmer, who talks us through the growing, harvesting and processing of the cigar tobacco here.

Once the tobacco leaves have been harvested (all but hand), they’re initially dried on stands in the sun in the field before they go into the drying sheds. These amazing barns are almost all roof and are thatched with palm fronds.

To get the tobacco onto the sheds, farmers ‘stitch’ between 120-200 leaves together with fine twine and hang them in stacks. They dry for up to 60 days. After that the leaves are fermented for up to 40 days before they go to sorting factories.

The process after that is lengthy and a tale for another time, but it’s fascinating. Leaves we see drying today will have to wait another 6 years in some cases before they become cigars.

Back in the homestead, the farmer has some leaves he’s kept for himself that he rolls for us. It’s amazing to watch the four important elements of the cigar coming together: the filler, binder and wrapper all made from whole leaves, and the cap at the end.

We’re able to buy some of these ‘farmer cigars’ from him, which is pretty cool. They’re not quite the same as factory-made cigars, which are far higher quality, but they’re not bad.

Here’s how to tell the difference when you’re buying cigars in Havana by the way. 

I get a cigar to smoke on our ride back to town, which is so cool. Riding a horse… caballo… through the Cuban countryside of where the cigar leaves were grown. It’s a highlight.

For Christina, fording a river on horseback is as much of a highlight. I manage to get this photo just before I almost fall off.

Back in Vinales

We arrive back at our guide’s paddock and say goodbye. It’s a short walk in the sun back to the main street, where we find a bar for a refreshing Cristal beer. I also have another cigar to celebrate.

We sit and watch the world go by and reflect on the amazing experience we’ve just had.

You might also enjoy these stories about Cuba:

– What really happens on a Cuban cigar factory tour?
– Why we owe Cuba an apology
– Paradise in Cuba – what to expect on Cayo Levisa
– Our library of stories on Cuba

Some advice

When you book this horse-riding trek, here are a few things to remember:

– bring some water with you in a pack – it gets hot on the trail.
– don’t wear jeans – cotton slacks or cargo pants are ok. Leggings are perfect
– don’t wear shorts if you can help it – I wore Christina’s compression socks, which protected me from rubbing on horse hair and the sweat from the horse. Not sexy, but it worked
– wear shoes you don’t mind getting dirty or wet
– pack sunscreen and don’t wear any strong perfumes.

To book your tours, accommodation, and even flights and visas to Cuba, we highly recommend Cuban Adventures Cuba Tours.

The post The best way to see Cuba – on horseback through cigar tobacco fields appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

The words ‘Cuban’ and ‘cigar’ go together so naturally, don’t they? It’s the perfect collocation. But for some reason the words ‘cigar’ and ‘factory’ are quite jarring.

I think it’s perhaps because ‘factory’ is the wrong word. To me, a factory suggests unskilled labour, mass production and machine automation.

And none of these elements exist where these premium Cuban cigars are made.

Here’s our video of our time on the Cuban cigar tour in Havana:

Click here to watch the video.

On our recent trip to Cuba, Christina and I booked a tour of a cigar ‘factory’ in Havana. Well, it was more like a cigar experience really.

The Cuban Cigar Trail

We booked our Cuban cigar factory tour and experience through Cuban Adventures’ Cuba Tours site, an awesome tour company that specialises in small group or private tours in Cuba. We’ve worked with these guys in the past on a longer trip around Cuba.

They organise it all for you; you just need to turn up. But they also give you freedom to explore at your own pace. There’s no ‘follow the umbrella’ going on here.

The Cigar Trail private tour comes in 5 different parts.

Part 1: Arriving at the cigar factory

Our guide Frank picked us up from our casa particular in a classic American car, which was awesome. Driving through Havana in one of these cars is so cool. But knowing we were heading to a real cigar factory made it even better.

I’m even more excited because the factory we’re going to is Partagas – one of my all-time favourite cigar houses.

Through the grand archway and under the vaulted ceilings of the factory entrance, Frank told us he would wait for us in the lobby; a Partagas employee was to take us around the factory.

He also explained that, apart from in the lobby, we weren’t allowed to take any kind of recording; no photos, no video, no audio.

Part 2: Tour of the Partagas Cigar Factory

The lobby

On the ground floor, through an open (but guarded) door, was a room full of young locals sat at rolling desks.

Frank sidled up to us and explained that this was a kind of ‘academy’, and these were apprentice rollers, practising. The apprenticeship takes at least 9 months and they are paid just USD10 per month.

We weren’t allowed to take photos here either, hence the security guard.

Our factory guide arrived and led us up 4 storeys on what felt like the back stairs to the building.

As we climbed up the different levels of this giant workshop, we caught glimpses of storage rooms full of cigar boxes, people working on things, inspecting boxes.

I got an inkling of what Charlie Bucket must’ve felt like when he explored Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory.

The sorting rooms

The sorting room on the top floor was where staff – usually older women – graded the different leaves for the cigar wrappers. This is potentially the most important job. The wrapper, which goes on the outside of the cigar, has to look perfect and is made of one single leaf.

These women sit and remove the thick vein from the middle of the leaf then sort it according to its colour, size and quality.

There is also a room for sorting the finished products. Each vitola (‘model’ of cigar) can be sorted into 7 different colour grades, so each box is consistent. Boxes of cigars are also opened randomly for sampling.

This is the old Partagas factory, which is now a museum and shop

The shop inside the old Partagas factory is probably one of the best cigar shops in Havana

The rolling room

This is the room everyone comes to see, where the rolling happens. In a long, wide room, rollers – mostly younger people – sit at wooden rolling desks and work their craft.

Each cigar is made, from beginning to end, by one person. They put three different types of tobacco leaf into the filler (the core of the cigar) at different ratios depending what type they’re making.

We weren’t allowed to take photos of the rollers. This was taken in Viñales on a tobacco farm

The rollers (known as torcedores) then put a binder leaf around that to hold it together, then the pristine wrapper. They also glue a cap to one end using a flour-and-water paste. Each cigar goes into a special press before it’s assessed for quality.

It must be exactly the right length, shape and thickness. Partagas alone has over 30 different types of cigar and each one has different parameters. The skill involved in being able to craft these cigars is remarkable.

And at such speed.

As a rough average, each roller can make around 8 cigars an hour.

The boxing room

Finally, we saw the boxing room, which is mostly staffed by older men. This is where blank boxes are transformed into the finished product, all by hand.

Labels are glued on with the same stuff holding the cigar caps and their beautiful collar labels on. Cigars go in, along with sheets of wax paper, authenticity labels and a sheet of raw cedar.

The whole process is incredible.

This is the VIP room of the Partagas shop. They were in the middle of restocking!

My dream cigar room!

Some numbers

Our guide also gives us some stats to think about as we go round:

This factory alone (there are 5 more just in Havana):

– has over 400 staff
– makes 20,000 cigars per day
– runs from 7am – 5pm (with 1 hour 30 minutes for lunch and breaks).

– Rollers make between 60-80 cigars per day.
– Rollers earn USD50-60 per month. Locals consider this to be a good wage.
– Each worker receives 5 cigars per day as a bonus.

Part 3: The ‘Maridaje’ cigar ceremony

After the cigar factory tour, we got back in the old American car, which takes us and Frank back towards the coast for the ‘Maridaje’ – the ‘marriage’ or traditional pairing of a Cuban cigar with Cuban coffee and Cuban rum.

Within the verdant courtyard of the Palacio O’Farrill – a beautiful period hotel that was once the home of a prominent sugar don – we sit down to a cigar lesson.

The hotel’s cigar sommelier meets us and takes us through the ‘marriage’ of a pure Cuban cigar (locals refer to them as ‘puro’) with an espresso coffee and a golden rum. It’s a fine marriage indeed.

He also shows us how to light a cigar correctly, using a shard of the cedar sheet you find in every cigar box (never a lighter or just a match) and ‘toasting’ the foot of the cigar before you light and smoke it.

Of course, this masterclass includes the coffee, rum and the cigar.

Part 4: The cigar shop

Also part of the Palacio O’Farrill is a beautiful cigar shop selling many of the finest vitolas from the best cigar houses in Cuba. Make sure you’re not buying fake premium cigars by shopping in these government-run shops*.

You can usually tell if a shop or restaurant is government-run if there’s an electronic till and credit card reader. Local privately-owned stores won’t usually have this kind of tech.

This is the bar of the government-run Hotel Tortuga on Capitol Square

*Ordinarily, we’d recommend avoiding the government-run businesses in favour of supporting locals, all of whom are working hard to make ends meet. But if you want to make sure the cigars you’re paying a premium for are real ones from the proper cigar houses, the only places you can guarantee authenticity are the government-run stores.

Part 5: The Cuban cigar museum

A walk into Havana Vieja took us to the cigar museum. It’s full of fascinating cigar-related artefacts, from long-dead cigar house labels and lithographic plates to Fidel Castro’s own cigar box humidor and ancient tribal statues of tobacco gods.

The cigar museum is in the heart of Havana Old Town, but it’s tucked away and surprisingly hard to spot. It also has erratic opening hours depending on how long the excellent ladies running it feel like staying open.

It was great to have a guide like Frank with us too – he was able to explain a lot of the displays and also translate the staff’s explanations, who could only speak Spanish.

Being able to see and learn so much about one of the most enigmatic parts of Cuban culture on this private tour was an absolute highlight on a trip that was already so full of amazing experiences.

If you’re heading to Cuba anytime soon, make sure you check out this half-day private tour. It’s amazing.

The post What really happens on a Cuban cigar factory tour? appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Thanks to its significant Cuban expat population, Miami, Florida has a kind of duel culture. The beachside party town glam of Florida’s Gold Coast has combined with the untouched salsa spirit of Cuba, and what’s come of it is truly unique.

Here’s our video of Little Havana to give you a taste of what it’s like there compared to the real thing:

Click here if you can’t see the video.

As 8th Street heads to its eastern edge, the fascinating suburb of Little Havana really comes to life. It’s fascinating because it’s both like and unlike anything else you’ll find in America.

You get similar Hispanic hints in places like San Diego’s Old Town, but there’s something distinctly Cuban about this part of Miami. And that’s what makes it different.

But the thing that made it even more interesting for us – coming straight from Cuba to Miami – was to see how the Cubans here represent their homeland capital in America.

Little Havana, Miami

Down the broad, straight American street that locals here call Calle Ocho, evidence of Cuban influence is clear.

Cuban flags and salsa beats fill the air, and restaurants offer ropa vieja and Cuban sandwiches – though this particular dish didn’t exist on Havana’s menus until recently.

But things feel a little fake. A little forced.

It’s not until you spot the little details that you realise the authenticity of Little Havana.

In Maximo Gomez Park – also known as Domino Park – we were drawn to the clack-clack of the dominos slamming down. Tables and tables of Cuban gents all playing the age-old game. But closer inspection shows these dominos are distinctly Cuban. Instead of one to six dots, these pieces go up to nine. And it’s a much more confusing game.

You’ll also find people selling long thin cones of white paper filled with peanuts. If we hadn’t been to Cuba, we’d probably have found this quite strange, but these little snacks are a common sight on the streets of Havana.

Food, drink and entertainment in Little Havana

Like most places in Miami, there are plenty of watering holes and food venues in Little Havana. From American fast food joints to little family-run Cuban paladares, 8th Street has plenty to choose from.

But the most compelling and also the most interesting on Calle Ocho is the Cubaocho Museum and Performing Arts Center. With live bands playing frequently and impromptu salsa dance-offs happening too, it’s the perfect spot for a mojito or a cubata. Sit at the bar, watch the people and soak up the notion of Cuba.

Further inside Cubaocho is a wealth of old Cuban artefacts, furniture and artwork worth going to see.

Also worth looking at are the cigar shops on Calle Ocho. Some of them have people hand-rolling cigars in the traditional way. Of course, these won’t be Cuban cigars, but the rollers look like they’re doing a pretty professional job. Though they’re much slower than the pros we saw in the Partagas factory we visited in Havana.

Funnily enough, you’d never see people rolling cigars on the street in Havana, Cuba. They’d be arrested immediately. The only legal cigars produced in Cuba come from government-run ‘factories’. Everything else is essentially a bootleg product.

How much does Little Havana hold up against the real thing?

Obviously Little Havana is missing the old grandeur of Havana proper. The history, variety and elegant neglect of the architecture in Havana is like nowhere else on earth. Its narrow looming streets full of life and minimal pavement create a unique feeling as you walk through Cuba’s capital.

However, Little Havana is much cleaner than the real thing, which is desirable. It’s also safer in respect of avoiding traffic. The freedom and relative wealth the people in Little Havana have makes us both sad and hopeful for the Cubans still in their homeland.

And with the coming tide of tourism to Cuba, perhaps we’ll be seeing a Taco Bell and a MacDonald’s on Havana’s streets – just like on Calle Ocho.

Is it worth visiting Little Havana?

Little Havana is as unique a place as real Havana. But then all of Miami is just as unique. No two places are the same.

Little Havana is great if you’re looking for a tiny reminder of your time in Cuba. It’s fun, colourful and almost as full of life as the real thing. Nothing quite beats actually visiting that beautiful island nation, and we’d recommend spending time in Cuba to anyone who wants to see something extraordinary.

If you haven’t been to Cuba yet, some of the little details we enjoyed might pass you by. But seeing the exposed heart of a major element of Miami life explains something of what this city is about.

Many of the older Cuban Americans came to Miami fleeing persecution of the Castro revolution in the ‘50s and – seen by the Cuban state as traitors – they haven’t been back home since.

It made us wonder if we were seeing the Havana the locals remembered from their heydays before everything in Cuba changed.

Have you been to Little Havana in Miami? What did you think? Have you ever been to a smaller version of a city you’ve fallen in love with? Tell us all about it in the comments below!

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Cuban cigars are the best cigars in the world. To quote a Cuban cigar expert we talked to when we were there: even 3rd rate Cuban cigars will be considered world class anywhere else.

They’re Cuba’s most famous export and one of the best souvenirs you can buy when you’re travelling in Cuba.

And smoking a fine, hand-crafted cigar, which should really be considered a work of art, is a wonderful thing indeed.

However, when you’re buying a cigar – especially if it’s from a place you can’t guarantee is genuine – you need to know what to look for to spot a fake.

What is a fake cigar?

There are two types of fake cigar.

In Cuba, there are ‘farmer cigars’ that are smokeable, are hand-made using cigar-grade tobacco, but with one of the cigar house labels put on them.

Worse than that, there are ‘cigars’ that look real, but are in fact made from rolled banana leaf or a number of different things to make you think they’re proper cigars.

Outside of Cuba, you might find cigars that look the real deal, but are simply inferior cigars from other parts of the world with a Cuban cigar label put on them to fool you.

Our experience of fake cigars

Thankfully, I have never bought a fake cigar, though I was offered one in a bar in Havana once. The barman said the cigars were real – they even had Montecristo collars on – and were ‘special’. They were in an old wooden box he kept behind the bar and were so dodgy.

I could easily see from how misshapen they were and that the labels were shabby and faded that these were not real. Plus the barman told me they were about $2 each. That’s way to cheap – even in Cuba.

I have bought farmers’ cigars though.

The ones you can see here are all farmers’ cigars. I bought these from a tobacco farmer in Vinales – the tobacco region in Cuba where all the best cigar houses source their tobacco.

The farmers never pretend these cigars are anything but what they are: cigars they’ve made themselves with their own tobacco. But they’re good examples of what we’re talking about.

How to spot a fake Cuban cigar

Poorly attached cap

The cap is a small piece of tobacco leaf that’s glued on right at the end of the cigar-making process. This is the final finishing touch and when the professional rollers do it, it’s perfect.

If the cap isn’t on straight, is too big or isn’t stuck down all the way round, it’s fake.

Wonky shape

Professionally rolled cigars go through multiple rigorous checks at the workshop before they get anywhere near the door. If a cigar isn’t dead straight, it’ll be rejected. If it’s bulging too much, it’ll also go in the reject pile.

Gaps in the foot

The foot of the cigar – the bit you light – should look like the cross section of a Cadbury Twirl of a Flake. You should be able to see how the filler is bunched and packed when the roller was making it.

If there are any gaps, holes or big chunks of woody looking tobacco, it’s probably a fake. The rollers take great care in making sure the filler is consistent. If it’s not, the cigar won’t smoke properly.

Baggy, ragged or poorly shaped wrapper

The wrapper is a single leaf of tobacco that goes round the outside of the cigar and holds in the filler and binder. The wrapper should be smooth, a little shiny, uniform colour and fitting neat and tight to the cigar.

The leaves the rollers use for the wrappers go through even more stringent inspections than the other parts of a cigar, so they should be perfect. If the wrapper looks loose or poorly made, this could be a fake cigar.

Loose or very soft feel to body

Give the cigar a gentle squeeze. If there’s too much give between your finger and thumb, there’s probably a gap in the filler, which means the cigar probably wasn’t rolled by a professional. Some cigars are rolled tighter than others as part of their brand, so if you have a few you can inspect, compare them. If they’re all loose, it could just be the style of that cigar.

Too cheap

Let’s face it, cigars aren’t cheap – even in Cuba. If the price is a lot lower than you were expecting to pay or than what you’ve seen in shops, it’s probably because they’re fake. As the saying goes: if it seems too good to be true, it probably is.

Collar isn’t straight or faded colours

Inspect the collar – the label that goes around the cigar. If it’s faded, wonky or looks a bit ‘hand-made’ (it’s the only part of the cigar that is made by a machine), it’s probably a fake cigar. Look out for collars that look a bit creased or worn – the counterfeiters often re-use old collars.

So if you’re in Cuba and someone offers you cheap cigars on the street or tells you about a ‘co-operative’ in a house round the corner, by all means have a look, but be prepared to find only fakes.

You should also check out our other guides on cigars:

9 tips on how to choose a cigar

Is your cigar mouldy and can you smoke it?

Our library of cigar stories and guides

And if you’re heading to Cuba, you should definitely check out the cigar trail Havana day tour Cuban Adventures does.

Have you had any experiences of being sold fake cigars in Cuba or anywhere else? Do you have any other tips to add for spotting a fake cigar? Tell us in the comments!

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So you can imagine how we felt when Tiarra and Chris from Our Food Adventures asked us to be on their podcast channel.

Chris and Tiarra are an awesome couple who run their travel site out of Denver, Colorado. They love talking everything travel, everything food and of course a bit of romance in between.

And if you’re looking for some hot local tips on Denver, let these guys show you round their hometown.

Since April 2018, Tiarra and Chris have been publishing their conversations here on their site, and you can listen on your phone here. There are some fascinating people with inspiring stories of their journeys around the world here. And with Chris and Tiarra hosting, the conversation’s fun, witty and very engaging. Plus their dog Koji is the cutest.

We decided to talk to Tiarra and Chris about our time in Cuba in 2014. Back then it was certainly a path less trodden – and while it still is today, tourism has definitely got a deeper footprint there than when we first visited.

On the episode, we also shared some of our tips for travelling with your partner and how to maintain your relationship while you’re on the road. The potential for arguments always goes up a bit, doesn’t it?

Most interesting for us listening back on the podcast now is that – since the interview, we’ve been back to Cuba. The changes in the 4 years between our first visit and our return are astonishing.

The best news is the food’s so much better.

In the interview, we lament the bland food and the lack of range in Cuba. But when we went back there, we found everything – literally everything – was better. In fact, we didn’t have a bad meal while we were there the 2nd time.

It drove us to offer this official apology to Cuba.

And here’s a link to our library on Cuba stories.

Anyway, we hope you enjoy our interview and subscribe to Chris and Tiarra’s channel Our Food Adventures here.

Do you have a favourite travel podcast you listen to? What destination would you talk about if Tiarra and Chris were to interview you? Tell us in the comments below!

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Graced with so many attributes that make it a traveller’s dream, Cuba really should be the perfect destination. And with promises of such popular delicacies as the Cuban sandwich and ropa vieja, we were excited to get a taste of Cuba on our first visit in 2014.

We were utterly disappointed.

The food then was simple to the point of being bland, and the range of options was as slender as venues were in short supply. Under-seasoned, over-cooked, poorly prepared and generally unsatisfying, the food in Cuba was not up to the same standard as the overall experience of visiting this beautiful country.

And Cuban sandwiches are a Miami creation, invented by the expat Cubans who had either made the 90-mile move to the States pre-revolution or had fled at some point during the Castro rule. The dish had not migrated over to its homeland.

All this drove us to write this story on what the food is really like in Cuba.

Why we owe Cuba an apology

Fast forward to 2018 and our second visit to this fascinating Caribbean country. Expecting more of the under-seasoned, uninspiring fare of our previous visit, imagine our surprise when we sit down to our first meal in a little paladar in Old Havana.

The waitress plonks down not only salt and pepper – simple condiments noticeably absent in 2014 – but also a range of sauces and dressings. Christina and I looked at each other, speechless.

We thought perhaps it was just this one place – La Makina on Peña Pobre in Havana, but it wasn’t.

Everywhere we went this time not only had a full selection of condiments on the tables, the food was all delicious. In fact we didn’t have a bad meal the whole time we were there.

Herbs, spices, extensive menus, and evidence that plating and presentation were now a priority was in every eatery we visited in Cuba.

Some places even had international dishes on offer – even the Cuban sandwich! And as for ropa vieja, which translates to ‘old rope’, it was hard not to order it wherever we ate.

The dish itself is amazing. Slow-cooked shredded beef that’s then cooked again in a rich sauce… it’s delicious. Some places use lamb or mutton, which isn’t as good, but the ropa vieja in La Makina is supreme.

Why has Cuba’s food scene changed so much?

Cuba is going through massive change at the moment. Since late 2014, when Barak Obama thawed some of the tensions between the two countries, Cuba has enjoyed growth on all different levels.

Most noticeably for visitors is simply the sheer number of people coming to Cuba. Tourism is now an enormous percentage of the country’s GDP (we’ve heard talk of around 80%) and things like more flights and airlines coming to Havana, visa and travel permits being easier to get make Cuba a more attractive destination.

With so many more people coming to Cuba, the locals have seen an opportunity and have really lifted their game on many fronts – the quality of the food not least.

Cuban politics have also played a big part in the county’s food scene. The government loosened restrictions on individuals legally starting their own businesses, so the palidares – little locally owned restaurants, cafés and diners have sprung up all over the place.

What food can you expect to find in Cuba?

In 2014, menus were pretty sparse. Even the ropa vieja was chewy and lacked flavour. The best thing on the menu was the ubiquitous fried chicken, which was crispy and delicious to be fair.

Also the tostones – twice-fried plantain chips – are always good, a lucky thing if you were vegetarian. There never used to be much for veggies in Cuba.

These days things have changed so much it’s actually hard to find the fried chicken of yesteryear. Italian style pizzas, Southeast Asian cuisine, and North American influence (including the Cuban sandwich) is easy to find.

Ice cream and gelato shops are springing up and the delicious Cuban pizzas, which used to be simple hole-in-the-wall places selling bootleg food out of sight of the authorities. They now happily sell their fascinating street snack, which they cook in a pan like a big savoury pancake.

The denizens of Naples would probably turn their noses up at these pizzas, but for a quick, cheap bite to eat (they’re only CUC1) as you explore Havana, there’s nothing better.

Unbelievably, we even found an Indian restaurant in Old Havana. Amusingly named the Buena Vista Curry Club, this place really looked out of place amidst the crumbling Spanish and European influences of Cuba’s most historic centre.

However, a local we spoke to assured us it’s pretty good there – unfortunately the Buena Vista Curry Club was closed the night we’d geared ourselves to try it in spite of its promise of being open 7 nights a week. You know, there’ll always be a little part of me that wonders…

If you enjoyed this story, you should check out some of our others on Cuba:

Changes in Cuba according to a Cuba tourism expert

5 differences we’ve noticed in Cuba since Obama’s visit

Why you need to visit Viñales, Cuba

Our library of posts on Cuba

Cuba, we are very sorry we said your food was terrible. We take it back and we hope you’ll accept our apology.

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When you think of Cuba, your mind is filled with images of elegantly crumbling buildings, old American cars, cigars and perhaps Ernest Hemingway. One thing that is easy to forget is that Cuba is also home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

On our journey from Viñales back to Havana, we decided to put in a bit of beach time and relax for a while. To be honest, we’re a little nervous of the beaches in Cuba. Not because of safety – Cuba’s one of the safest countries in the world for visitors.

Our first experience of a beach holiday in an part of Cuba called Varadero wasn’t great. In fact it’s one of the few places in Cuba we’d recommend against visiting. We’ve written about it for Y-Travel Blog here.

However, our time here on Cayo Levisa was a long way from the horrors of the resort nightmare in Varadero. Here’s what it’s like on Cayo Levisa and what you can expect.

Cayo Levisa is a beautiful little cay in the Pinar del Rio Province somewhere on the north coast between Viñales and Havana. It’s only accessible by boat and there’s only one place to stay.

But after you’ve checked in and you get to the beach, you realise what all the effort is for. The beach and the water is absolutely drop dead, mind-blowingly, tongue-lollingly stunning.

It’s a good job the beach is beautiful too. The hotel doesn’t let you check in until 3pm. Considering the amount they charge for rooms – plus the fact there are fewer than 70 villas – we weren’t expecting to have to wait so long to get access to our room. Ferries leave from the little jetty at Palma Rubia 3 times a day. We arrived at about 11.30.

There are more details about getting to Cayo Levisa at the end of this post.

Forced into relaxing on the beach under a palm frond umbrella with the Caribbean lapping at our toes. What a terrible hardship!

Unfortunately, Christina and I can’t sit still for that long. It’s only a matter of time before we’re off exploring the easterly tip of Cayo Levisa called Punta Arena. There’s almost no one around and the water here is incredible.

Punta Arena used to be one of the main spots on Cayo Levisa, but Hurricane Irma in 2017 ripped through the area causing lots of damage. The beach here is now desolate and all that remains are a few broken shades, an old beach volleyball net and the remnants of a beach bar.

It feels like we’re the only people on the island.

The water at the eastern point of the cay is so clear you can see the bottom metres down. To get to the Punta it feels like a jungle safari as you push through mangroves and overhanging trees to make a path.

Back at the main beach where we were waiting before, there’s a lot more going on. We visit the bar for a couple of local beers (Cristal – never Bucanero) and watch the little sailing boat that takes people around the island. We think about doing it, but it’s so hot today and our Australian terror of UV keeps us safe under the sun shade!

Finally – after all that sun, sand and anticipation – our room is ready. The rooms here at Hotel Cayo Levisa are spread out along a long (very long) boardwalk that follows the beach west from the main hotel area.

It’s so long in fact they have built a miniature version of the main restaurant half way along the boardwalk to save people walking all the way back there for dinner. It’s really not that far, but it feels like it as you’re walking in the heat with your bags (there are no porters here) and counting up to 65.

This place is lucky it’s so pretty!

We’re finally here! And our room is enormous. It makes up for the wait. The bed is gigantic, there are 2 sofas, a dining room set and 2 coffee tables – which seems a bit excessive. The bathroom is also huge and well appointed. But best of all is the balcony:

The balconies in this hotel are lovely. Decked platforms above the beach scrub that look out over the island, the balconies are private and have really comfy furniture. It’s too much of an invitation for me. I sit back, rest the bar fridge of its beer, spark up a cigar and settle down to my book.

Meanwhile, Christina is having a much-needed nap. Relaxing on the beach can be surprisingly taxing!

After a while, I decide to take a stroll outside. The pathway down to the beach is so pretty. If you’re looking for somewhere to relax, this place is it. You almost have no option but to chill out.

This is the first time I’ve ever had a cigar on the beach. I rather like it. Taking a selfie at the same time though seems to be causing me a bit of confusion!

Christina’s nap time is finally over, so I’ve brought her back down to the beach to admire the view. She certainly makes the boardwalk look better.

The water at this beach is even more beautiful than at Punta Arena. Looking down from the little old jetty that juts out into the Caribbean gives a lovely view down. There are lots of little fish here, though I think hiring snorkelling gear would be a bit of a waste of money. The rental prices are also a bit high.

There are a few dive sites at Levisa though, which might be worth looking at. The only problem is I think they’re all in quite shallow water, which means a limited range of life to see.

The sun sets over the Caribbean in a beautiful golden red blaze. It’s almost time for dinner!

Dinner at Hotel Levisa is included in the cost of the room. It’s buffet style, but the food is pretty good. One thing to be aware of is the strange flies that infest the area at dusk at this time of year (April and May). They’re harmless and don’t bite, but fly everywhere and are quite pervasive.

Waiting until the sun has completely gone – around 8.45 – is well worth it. At that point the flies all disappear and don’t return. It’s very strange.

Christina’s up very early this morning to catch the dawn. The pearly pink light tickles the clouds and promises another bright sunny day here in paradise.

As the sun rises properly, the sky lights up and puts on a real show. I almost wish I’d got up for this one… almost! My bed is just so comfortable though.

Today we leave Levisa for our return to Havana and I’m making the most of our digs.

We also get a final swim in before we leave. To our delight Christina spots a starfish in the shallows. There are a couple along the beach and the few people we’re sharing the beach with are looking at them too.

We’re really happy to see no one touching the starfish.

It really annoys us when we see people picking them up. Starfish can suffer injuries and die from contact and exposure to air and the heat from our bodies.

We’ve had an amazing time here at Cayo Levisa. We weren’t sure what to expect before we arrived and were worried it was going to be a massive tourist trap. Instead we leave feeling very relaxed and revived.

If you have the opportunity to make it to this cay, definitely do it. It’s romantic, beautiful and you get to see the potential that Cuba has for this level of tourism as the country develops.

As we wait for our ferry, the sky fills up with the threat of rain and we’re keen to get back on the road. The distant mountain ranges near Viñales are getting a good soaking and we’d prefer to be back in our taxi heading east before those clouds reach us.

It’s only a 30 minute boat ride back to the mainland and we’re thrilled to see our driver, who dropped us off here. Getting a taxi from Levisa to Havana can be quite tricky. The roads are really bad and it’s a long way.

Thanks to our casa particular host in Viñales – Ridel Batista of Casa Mis Cumbres – was amazing and organised this guy to drive us the whole way.

The direct road from Cayo Levisa to Havana should only take an hour and a half, but in reality it would take a lot longer than that – plus you risk wrecking your car. The roads are terrible. For that reason, our driver has decided to go a longer way round further inland.

As we go, we pass by an area that not many travellers get to see. Las Terrazas is a special landmark and a heritage area of Cuba. The rainforest that surrounds the lakes and old farmland terraces where the area gets its name have more of a Polynesian or even Japanese feel to them than the Antilles in the Caribbean.

This area is absolutely stunning and we’re so thankful to our driver for taking us through here.

This has been a remarkable part of our trip and so unexpectedly beautiful. We knew that Cayo Levisa was going to be pretty, but we had no idea that it would be like this.

How to get to Cayo Levisa, Cuba

Taxis will take you to Cayo Levisa (or to the ferry wharf Palma Rubia) but it’s hard to organise one to pick you up after. Coaches do also bring groups here, which is often the best value option.

There are buses you can take from Viñales and Havana that cost as little as $30 each way. However, they won’t be comfortable and you’re likely to spend a day getting there.

Apparently it’s really rare to be able to get a taxi to take you one way from Viñales to Havana via Levisa. They usually want to take you back to where they came from.

There are also daytrip options for visiting the cay but you don’t get to explore the whole island – only a small beach portion of it.

The ferry runs to and from Palma Rubia 3 times a day (1st ferry leaves Rubia at 11am) and tickets aren’t expensive. However, if you book through Cubanacan here, the price of the return boat transfer is included in your booking.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this travel update. We’ll be writing a more in depth review of Hotel Cayo Levisa down the line – we’ve got plenty more to tell you about!

Cheers – Jim & Christina xx

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