Flying into the state’s capital – Kota Kinabalu – is the perfect way to find your feet before heading on to Sabah’s less trodden paths. It lowers you into the Malaysian mindset quite gently, compared to the frenzied jolt you get from Kuala Lumpur.

Though if you’re heading to Kuala Lumpur first, here’s our first-timer’s guide to getting the most out of KL.

Unlike Kuala Lumpur, Kota Kinabalu – or KK as its locals like to call it – is set on the coast. On its eastern side, the mysteries of the South China Sea lap at Sabah’s shores and stretch into the distance.

On the west side of KK, Mount Kinabalu – Southeast Asia’s tallest mountain – towers over the city. Its 4,095m peak looms out of the clouds just 30 miles from town and features on Sabah’s state flag.

Where to stay in Kota Kinabalu – Le Meridien KK

As you’d expect of a capital city, there are plenty of places to stay of varying levels of comfort and quality. However, Le Meridien’s KK location provides that perfect mix of western comfort, eastern hospitality and Sabahan culture and warmth.

The location

We were impressed with where the Le Meridien is located in KK. At first we were looking at the Shangri La, but it’s not nearly as central to the city and its western (and therefore sunset) views aren’t out over the water like the Le Meridien.

The Le Meridien is right opposite the night markets, there are bars and restaurants nearby and the port, where you can go to visit the islands like Pulau Gaya off shore, is just round the corner.

The rooms

Spacious, well appointed and comfortable, the rooms here are what you’d expect from a large Southeast Asian hotel. The beds are enormous and comfy, the décor is professional and luxurious, and the floor-to-ceiling windows give you amazing views out over the harbour.

At sunset, you get box office seats to the sky show, which is invariably stunning.

The hotel

As soon as you walk through the doors to Le Meridien KK, you know you’re in a quality hotel. The recent renovations, the huge, lofted ceilings, decorated to resemble the fish-filled ocean, and the sophisticated look of the reception welcome and reassure.

To the left are the check-in and concierge desks and to the right are the restaurants. Speaking to the staff, we got the impression that the recent renos have made a significant improvement to the general ambience of the eating areas.

The restaurants

There are three restaurants here on the ground floor – Latest Recipe, Latitude 05 and Favola. Latest Recipe offers a range of dishes native to Sabah. Think fresh seafood, Malay curries and perhaps some of the curious ambuyat – a local yam starch that’s used to dip into sauces. The food here is really worth trying.

It’s also here where you take breakfast. And oh! what a breakfast! One of the best spreads we’ve seen in hotels, you really get an understanding of what a top class hotel this is for the brekkie!

Latitude 05 – named after Sabah’s proximity to the equator – is the hotel bar. It’s the perfect spot to recline and sip a cocktail at the end of a long day’s exploring or grab a well-made coffee to keep you awake during the day. They also serve an unusual selection of ‘infused’ eclairs that you’ll only ever find in KK.

Favola is the most surprising restaurant to find here – mostly because unlike the other places at Le Meridien KK it serves Italian fare. This intimate little ristorante is tucked away and private – perfect for a special occasion dinner. The food is surprisingly authentic, which isn’t what you’d expect to find so far from this cuisine’s origins.

The pool

The real gem of Le Meridien KK is its open-air pool. Up above the busy noisy, streets of Kota Kinabalu, the blue shimmer of the pool and its friendly bar make you want to just stay here all day.

Grab a snack or a beer and hang out here looking out over the sea and the markets below. Then as sunset starts, the sky literally glows with beauty and you get to watch daylight dip below the level of the waves.

Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu

Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens
Kota Kinabalu
Sabah, Borneo

W: starwoodhotels.com
Fb: @lemeridienkotakinabalu
Tw: @LeMeridienKK

For more details on our experiences in Sabah, Borneo, check out our guides and reviews:

– Into the wild – our Essential Guide to Sabah, Borneo

– Welcome to the jungle – Borneo rainforest revealed: Danum Valley, Sabah

– Our 7-day itinerary for Sabah, Borneo

Have you ever been to Sabah? What’s your favourite thing about a good hotel? Tell us in the comments below!

Images by Mrs Romance using an OM-D E-M5 mark II Olympus camera. We stayed at Le Meridien KK as guests of Sabah Tourism.

The post Where to stay in Sabah’s Capital – Le Meridian Kota Kinabalu, Borneo appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Borneo is a real traveller’s paradise. So many cultures and so much wildlife exist here it’s almost overwhelming. You could spend your whole life exploring this culturally replete equatorial island.

The Malaysian state of Sabah in Borneo’s north is the most inhabited and developed part of the island, which makes it the most accessible part of the island. Sabah is home to incredible world-class reef dive sites, Southeast Asia’s tallest mountain and one of the most diverse jungle habitats on the planet. It’s also where you can find pigmy elephants and orang-utans in the wild.

We explored this stunning tropical region from west to east, from the capital to central jungles, and blissful islands and reefs – here’s our essential guide to Sabah, Borneo.

But this all takes time. So if you’re time poor and want to get the most out of your time on the world’s third largest island, here’s what you need to do.

How to explore Sabah, Borneo in a week

Kota Kinabalu – 2 days

Sandwiched between the sea and Southeast Asia’s tallest mountain Mount Kinabalu – Sabah’s capital city has a fascinating personality. It’s a blend of fishing village quaintness, wild outpost ruggedness and the exotic yet cosmopolitan air of a developed, post-colonial city.

Kota Kinabalu – or KK as the locals call it – still gives off the feeling of being in a Malaysian city. In fact it’s a bit like someone took a cutting from Kuala Lumpur and replanted it here in Borneo.

Spend your time here exploring the busy markets, trying your hand at batik painting at the Sabah Foundation and learning about the tribes of Sabah at the Mari Mari Cultural Village.

Stay at Le Meridien KK – closest to the markets, the port and the nightlife of KK. The hotel also looks west for some amazing sunsets over the ocean.

Gaya Island – 2 days

From the busy port, take a short 10-minute boat ride to Gaya Island. This is the biggest island of the small offshore archipelago on the west coast.

If the dash and bustle of KK has you wanting somewhere to relax, this is the place to do it. Everything slows down here. Relax in the beautiful Gaya Island Resort with its spectacular pools or down at the private beach.

Or if you’re feeling energetic, take a guided hike through the mini rainforest with the resort’s own naturalist and conservationist Justin Juhun. Over the last 10 years, Justin has toiled away to create the trails that roam through the island’s jungle. He’s also certain that he has spotted a new species of mammal here on Gaya!

The conservation centre he has built on Gaya Island Resort is a true asset to the hotel and to Borneo as a whole, and well worth checking out.

Extra activities

Depending on what you enjoy doing and how active you want to be, here are two ideas for you to add on to your trip.

Climb Mount Kinabulu – 1-2 days

Mount Kinabalu – the highest peak in Borneo – towers over KK and features on the state flag of Sabah. For the adventurous, the climb to its summit is a must, though it takes at least a day to complete.

For more information, check out Sabah Tourism’s information guide here.

Meet orang-utans – 2+ days

Seeing these amazing primates, the largest in Asia, is an amazing experience. You can see them in the wild, but it’s tricky and the likelihood is low as they roam the vast, dense jungles nomadically. This will take more time.

However, there are sanctuaries in Sabah where you can experience these incredible creatures close up. They’re well cared for and in these sanctuaries, and their living conditions are closely monitored.

The only problem is these sanctuaries and their natural habitats are in the north or the east of Sabah, so more travel – away from KK and the east – is your only option.

Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Center in Sandakan is connected to the state Wildlife Department, which part of the Tourism Ministry.

Rehabilitated orang utans are release in both Danum Valley and also Tabin Wildlife – both places have accommodation and guides.

The Lower Kinabatangan River is also where you can go for wildlife sightings.

Whatever you choose to do while you’re here, whether it’s hiking through the jungle, climbing mountains, diving with turtles or just relaxing on the beach, you’re guaranteed a unique experience.

Diversity is the word of the day here in Borneo. Three different nations have stakes in this island. Indonesia holds claim to most of Borneo, while in the west is the principality of Brunei and Malaysia has two large states in the northwest. With the many indigenous tribes also found throughout the island.

There’s great diversity in wildlife and landscapes here too. From the peak of Borneo’s tallest mountain to its deep ocean reefs there’s so much to see.

What would you choose to do in Borneo? Tell us in the comments!

Images by Mr and Mrs Romance using an OM-D E-M 5 mark II Olympus and a Hero4 GoPro camera. We visited Borneo as guests of Sabah Tourism

The post Quick itinerary for Sabah, Borneo appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Sabah, Borneo has some of the world’s most pristine rainforests with one of the widest ranges of plant, bird and animal life of any ecosystem. Danum Valley is Sabah’s largest protected lowland forest, and has stood unchanged and untouched for over 1 million years.

As we fly into Lahad Datu, the local airport nearest the only entrance to Danum Valley, we can see the horrifying reality of the encroaching palm oil plantations. They stretch out as far as the eye can see – even from up in the air.

Thankfully, the Malaysian and state Sabahan governments have stopped the plantations taking over the remaining 43,800 hectares of Danum Valley, preserving one of the last natural habitats for Asia’s largest primate, the orang-utan and the Borneo pygmy elephant, the world’s smallest elephant.

Because this is such a delicate ecosystem, it’s very hard to gain access to Danum Valley. No unauthorised visitors are allowed through the gates into the national park, which means self-driving and day visits are out of the question.

Borneo Nature Tours are permitted to have a maximum of 60 guests at any one time exploring Danum Valley and staying with them at Borneo Rainforest Lodge. This number is strictly monitored, so this has become quite an exclusive destination.

Because of its uniqueness, the staff at Borneo Nature Tours and the Rainforest Lodge see themselves as caretakers or guardians of the forest. Their love of this beautiful, untouched piece of the planet is clear to see.

How to see Danum Valley, the heart stone of Sabah, Borneo

How do you get there?

Getting to Danum Valley is a challenge. From Australia, you need to fly to Kuala Lumpur then transfer to Lahad Datu. This is the quickest way, however, we’d recommend a stop in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah’s capital. Then you fly on to Lahad Datu in the east of Borneo from there.

You can also drive there from other parts of the state.

From Lahad Datu Airport, a representative from Borneo Nature Tours meets you and takes you into the Lahad Datu office to sign in. And then the real fun begins! It’s a 2-hour 4×4 drive on unsealed roads through secondary rainforest until you get to the ‘front door’ to Danum Valley Conservation Area and the start of the primary jungle.

It’s then another half an hour of fording rivers, crossing timber-and-earth bridges and bumpy, unsealed roads before you come to Borneo Rainforest Lodge and home for the next few days.

This is the only way in or out… although Prince William and Kate Middleton flew in by helicopter. They still weren’t allowed to fly all the way though, and had to drive the last half an hour.

Where do you sleep?

Borneo Rainforest Lodge is the only accommodation in the 43,800 hectares of the Danum Valley Conservation Area. It’s actually on the site of an old tribal village that was abandoned many years before.

This doesn’t mean you’re sleeping in huts. Not by a long shot.

Everything has been built with minimum impact in mind. All the buildings are elevated on stilts to reduce forest floor contact. The main building, where you eat, relax and meet up with your guide, is a beautiful wooden hall open on all sides to allow airflow.

It also means you can see out into the jungle and over the Danum River. All kinds of animals come very close to the building, so you’ll probably see monkeys from here. You might also see deer, boar, snakes, orang-utans – maybe even elephants – from the balcony.

The rooms

There are 3 different types of chalet; from the standard ‘jungle view’ rooms to the double story premium villa. All 30 rooms are stand-alone, connected by the decked causeway that goes from the main building like a long elevated wooden street.

The standard room is indeed fairly standard. The beds are simple, the bathroom is adequate, but there’s plenty of room inside and it’s comfortable. Plus you really feel like you’re part of the forest sleeping in these rooms.

At the other end of the scale, the premium villas are something quite special. These are brand new additions to the complex and this really shows. Very popular with honeymooners and visitors looking for romance, these villas are private, luxurious and perfect for a special occasion.

You get a large, comfy bed, living room area, big bathroom with modern fittings and feature wall, and a big balcony with loungers to relax on while you lap up the views over the river.

You also get your own plunge pool on your balcony too! How amazing is this?

There are other little extras you get with the villas, like the $4,000 Swarovski Optik crystal lens binoculars in the room, free leech socks, a Nespresso coffee machine and an impressive Dyson room fan to keep you cool.

If you’re only interested in somewhere to sleep after a long day’s trekking, the standard or deluxe chalets are ideal. But if you’re looking for a place to relax and make your time at the lodge truly special, the villas are definitely the way to go.

What do you eat?

Food is all part of the price here, which means buffet. Apart from the ubiquitous hotel breakfast, we try and avoid buffets as a rule, but thanks to Head Chef Saharan Asmara and his team, the kitchen here produces food that’s absolutely delicious.

We even talked to an older couple from San Francisco staying here, obviously well travelled, who commented on how good the food was.

It’s a clever blend of approachable yet authentic Malay food, western style elements and international staples. The cloches are well tended so everything’s very fresh, and the small quantities available means pots are refilled regularly with minimal wastage.

There’s also a made-to-order food station. What you can get here changes from meal to meal, but they also roast things like satay, fish and chicken on charcoal here to serve too.

Dining extras

There are also private meals you can organise here too for an added bit of romance. We enjoyed an amazing lunch on the riverbank served by our own chef and waiter. It’s an experience we’ll never ever forget. We took a dip before we ate, then sat down to four courses of exquisitely cooked Sabahan-Malay cuisine.

In fact, one dish was so local it was made from fresh baby ferns picked from the jungle and stir fried with ample garlic while we watched. It was amazing.

You can also arrange a private breakfast here if you’re staying in the villas. In front of your villa is a deck with full barbecuing facilities. The team sets up a dining spot for you, then your chef comes to cook you a tasty breakfast with the most amazing backdrop you’ll ever see.

What do you do?

The order of the day here at Danum Valley is exploring the jungle. How you do this is entirely up to you. You could even just spend all day in the main building staring out over the balcony – the jungle is so close to you.

However, hiking is the best way to experience this gift of natural beauty. Guides take out groups of up to 8 people multiple times a day. However, for a surprisingly small amount you can hire your own private guide, which we’d highly recommend.

Our guide Paul is an absolute legend and a real asset to Danum Valley. His father’s side of the family are from the forests of Sabah, so from a tribal perspective, he’s truly one of the locals and proudly introduced himself as Orang Utan, which literally translates as ‘man of the forest’.

There are lots of significant spots throughout the 23km of forest hiking trails worth checking out. The lookout point at the top of the escarpment is amazing.

On your way up to the lookout is the Kadazan-Dusan ancient tribal burial site where the coffins of chiefs and warriors are still, tucked into caves and crevasses in the cliff.

High above the forest floor hangs the award-winning Canopy Walkway. This 300m path stretches between native seraya majau, menggaris and giant urat mata trees to a height of 26m above the ground. You get an amazing perspective of the forest canopy from up here.

Along the length of the Danum River down below, which you can also hike along in places, are beautiful waterfalls to find.

Many forest animals are most active at night, so the tours after dark are often the most interesting for spotting wildlife. The night drive takes you along the road with a naturalist armed with a spotlight.

Extra activities

You can also go for a night hike, which we highly recommend. We saw giant tarantulas (safely in their burrows), snakes hunting frogs, timid civets and flying squirrels on our night outing with Paul.

For the most relaxing way to see the jungle, an afternoon of tubing down the Danum River is the way to go. You hike upstream to the entry point, then gently bob down the river in the big innertube you’ve brought with you. It’s a lot of fun and a completely unique perspective of the valley.

You can also make extended tours into the jungle, especially if you’re a keen birder and are after one of the particular species that are endemic to the area. You just need to organise this with your guide.

Who comes here?

We were fascinated by the types of people coming to Danum Valley. Retirees, backpackers, solo travellers, honeymooners… there’s something here for so many.

However, I’ll be honest: this is a place for adventurers and nature lovers. Danum Valley is home to 240 species of birds, 124 species of mammals, 128 species of reptiles and amphibians, and incredibly 200 species of plants per hectare!

So if you want high-speed internet, lying by the pool with free-flowing cocktails, shopping, TV and all-day buffets, this probably isn’t the place for your holiday.

Having said that, we’re not exactly the hiking types either. In fact we bought our hiking boots the day before we left and ‘broke them in’ walking home from the shop! But Paul our guide tailored our experience for our pace and interests perfectly, which is what the staff at Borneo Nature Tours do so well.

How much does it cost?

This depends on how long you want to stay, what level of accommodation you want and what extras you’re interested in.

Whatever your plan, you’ll get accommodation, all meals, an orientation lecture with one of the naturalists, all hiking tours with your guide, road transfers in and out of the jungle from the airport, and permit fees into the national park.

For the most basic package based on twin-share accommodation and no extras, you’re looking at around MYR3,160 (that’s about AU$1,000) for 3 days, 2 nights per person.

Is it worth it? You’d better believe it.

Check out our essential guide to Sabah and what else you can do in this beautiful part of Malaysian Borneo.

Would you ever want to explore a rainforest? Where’s your favourite hiking spot? Tell us in the comments!

Images by Mr & Mrs Romance using an OM-D E-M5 mark II Olympus camera and GoPro Hero4.

We visited Danum Valley and stayed with Borneo Nature Tours as guests of Sabah Tourism.

The post Welcome to the jungle – how to experience the Borneo rainforest, Danum Valley, Sabah appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Borneo. It’s a place I never thought I’d ever get to explore. To me it’s always sounded so remote, so wild and exotic, and so mysterious. I felt sure it would remain in the ‘to visit’ column of my travel list forever.

But the deep jungles and towering peaks of the Malaysian state of Sabah at the northern end of Borneo are within surprisingly easy reach – especially travelling from Australia or Southeast Asia.

And once here, there’s so much to do you’ll be thinking of when you can come back again before you’ve even left. For starters, here’s our crash course in Sabah, Borneo.

Sabah, Borneo – what to do, where to go and how to see it all

Kota Kinabalu

Kota Kinabalu – or KK as the locals call it – is a busy little city, but that ‘island time’ influence, its waterfront location and the city’s (much) smaller population make KK a fun intro to Sabah’s lifestyle.

Where to stay

Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu

Le Meridien KK’s newly refurbed look makes this perfectly located international hotel a great spot to stay in the state’s capital. Facing west over the sea, sunsets from your room – or even better – the rooftop pool bar are amazing.

Service is impeccable and the rooms are spacious and comfortable. And the buffet breakfast is extensive and delicious.

Where to eat

Gathering, 88 Market Place, Kepayan

About as local as it comes, this place is perfect for getting a sense of the real KK. Order tom yum, dumplings and a plate of tuaran mee – a very moreish local dish of roast pork, noodles and egg you won’t find anywhere else.

Wiya Coffee Restaurant, Block F, Lot 4, Segama Complex 

A trans-generational eating institution, this place has been around forever. Order Hainanese chicken rice (like everyone else in there!) and enjoy the novelty pyramid shape of the rice.

Latest Recipe, Le Meridien KK

Even if you’re not staying here, the food is worth coming to Le Meridien KK. Latest Recipe’s Taste of Discovery menu changes all the time, but features some intriguing dishes – some amazing (the mackerel dishes here are awesome) and some strange; ambuyat – you gloopy weirdness, I’m looking at you!

Favola, Le Meridien KK

For a special meal, Favola Italian restaurant will leave you feeling very well looked after. Eating Italian food in Malaysia might seem weird, but ever since our amazing Spanish meal in Bangkok, we’ve opened our minds to extraneous meals!

Waterfront markets

Right opposite the Le Meridien Hotel is a network of food and grocery markets selling the freshest fish, fruit and vegetables that the kitchens of food stalls further down cook up.

Follow your nose for the food roasting on coals and flaming grills for a true taste of Sabah’s hawker food.

The Waterfront bars and restaurants

Quite touristy but lots of fun and great views out over the sea, grab a table at one of the bars at the Waterfront (we stopped at the Cock & Bull), order your drinks and enjoy the view.

For food either order from the bar or – as we did – go to one of the local satay vendors nearby and buy some delicious food on a stick! Our top tip: get in early before the karaoke gets going… unless you love karaoke of course!

What to do

Gaya Island

The biggest of 5 islands off the coast of KK, Gaya has nature trails into the rainforest, beautiful beaches and a couple of luxurious resorts to enjoy too. See below for more details on Gaya.

Mari Mari Cultural Village

At first, this place seems horribly touristy, but it’s actually really well done. The cultural village is a ‘living display’ of 5 of the most prominent tribes of Sabah.

The village is a collection of huts each built in the fashion of each tribe and locals act out scenarios and behaviours in keeping with each tribe. Many of them are from the tribe they represent.

You’re shown many of the different cultural nuances and traditions of each tribe and their houses, you try food and drink made by original methods, and you see things like the jumping challenge, a marriage ceremony and the headhunter tribes. You also get to shoot a blowpipe, and see traditional dances and tattoos.

It’s entirely staffed by young people who are from Sabah and have direct lineage to the tribes they represent. Our guide really approved, which made us realise how important this kind of thing is to educate about indigenous cultures around the world. It’s something we wish many other countries would do – Australia included.

Sabah Foundation – batik, beading and handicraft centre

Just on the other side of the bay from KK town centre looms the Tun Mustapha Tower – or the Battery as locals call it. Here, the Sabah Foundation has a programme working with local youths from tribes in Sabah.

They are creating all kinds of art that you can buy in the shop above the studio. Once the students have completed their initial 6-month intensive training and an ‘incubation’ period to continue their mastery. They’re then given business training for accounting and marketing so they can set up their own small businesses.

One of the most interesting crafts taught is batik painting. This traditional Sabah art form uses hot wax, ink and water to create incredible patterns on fabric. You can visit the studio and meet the students, and even try your hand at batik painting.

Be warned though, it’s not as easy as it looks.

Here’s an article by the local paper on the project.

Mangrove and Wetlands Research Centre

Once the ailing KK Bird Sanctuary, the government has turned this area over to the Sabah Wetlands Conservation Society. They have made this mangrove right in the middle of Kota Kinabalu city into a preservation area for research and conservation.

For about AU$5 (or AU$1.50 if you’re Malaysian), you can explore the 1.5km of boardwalks and paths over these important swamplands. There’s also a bird hide overlooking a lake, which is known to be a prime spot for birders.

Gaya Island

The little western archipelago of the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park is 10 minutes off the coast of Kota Kinabalu. At the head of these 5 islands is Pulau Gaya – literally meaning ‘Big Island’ in Malay.

Where to stay

Gaya Island Resort

There are a few little resorts to choose from here, but the beautiful Gaya Island Resort, with its 120-odd villas, beautiful pool and grounds, has the most to offer.

What to do and where to eat

Gaya Island Resort has a private beach with its own bar and loungers round the point. You can either get the tender to take you round or you can hike through the jungle to the beach. We took the boat!

The resort offers a lunch picnic service too, which you can have in a number of different places – this beach is one of them and is a beautiful spot for a romantic afternoon.

This beach houses its own marine centre. This centre, run by marine biologist Scott Mayback, is focused on rescuing and rehabilitating injured and sick turtles.

The resort also has a beautiful spa complex tucked away in the trees. The massage we were treated to here was transcendental! At one point I couldn’t work out if I was listening to the background music or the jungle birds overhead. Then I realised I didn’t actually care because this massage was so good!

But most impressively, Gaya Island Resort also has its own resident naturalist and conservationist, Justin Juhun.

Justin has worked here for over 10 years, and has built and developed hiking trails up into the chunk of rainforest covering most of the island. The conservation centre he has built here is fascinating too explaining many of the plant and animal species that live here. We were also lucky enough to meet the rescued collared scops owl Justin was rehabilitating.

The guided hikes through the rainforest showcase Justin’s hard work creating the tracks and also the abundance of life here. He is a huge asset to the resort and the island’s ecosystem.

Diving and snorkelling are good all year round but at their best in May and June, though there is significant damage to the reefs from local fishermen using dynamite.

For food, there are a few different restaurants here that are part of the resort. However, it’s important to remember that this is a small island and everything you eat needs to be brought in from Borneo or further.

Gaya Island Resort is perfect if you are short of time and want to explore all elements of Borneo; it has rainforest, low-level mountains, glorious beaches and some very inquisitive locals like the long-tailed macaques and the resident bearded pig Bacchus.

Lahad Datu – Danum Valley

If there’s one place you have to go to while you’re in Borneo, it’s Danum Valley. Even locals we spoke to were wowed and envious of us going here. Danum Valley in Sabah’s northeast is a small area of the 1 million hectares of virgin rainforest that the government has protected against deforestation.

It’s also the only part of this huge area of jungle that visitors are allowed in. And why come here? This is one of the last truly wild habitats of the incredible orang-utan – Asia’s largest primate.

How to get here

The only way to Danum Valley – unless you’re a jungle research biologist or an orang-utan – is with Borneo Nature Tours and Borneo Rainforest Lodge. If you fly into Lahad Datu – the nearest airport – your guide from Borneo Nature Tours will meet you and take you on to the office for registration.

Then it’s a 2-hour drive on unsealed roads through secondary jungle before you get to the true primary forest of the valley. Then it’s another 30 minutes or more of fording rivers and crossing log-and-dirt bridges before you come to the lodge.

Where to stay

Borneo Rainforest Lodge

The only accommodation for 150km in any direction, Borneo Rainforest Lodge is the easiest decision you’ll have to make. Luckily these guys haven’t rested on their laurels or taken advantage of their unique location: this is a really lovely place to stay.

The main building where you meet for treks, eat, debrief and relax is a huge lofted ceiling of a structure. Its wooden floors and pillared walls and balconies blend beautifully with the surrounding jungle. From the verandas on the first floor, you can see all round from the Danum River that loops round the complex to the deep greens of the jungle right up to the escarpment high above you.

From the main building there are lofted walkways leading to all the rooms to minimise impact on the forest floor. It’s not uncommon to see deer, boar, civets and even the endemic pigmy elephants wandering around beneath the walkways.

And the trees even close to the lodge hold the promise of over 300 species of birds, several types of monkey and of course the much sought-after orang-utans.

The rooms here come in 3 types; standard, deluxe and the villas. We stayed in a standard room, which is as the name suggests, though with plenty of space. There are no bells or whistles in these rooms.

However, we were also upgraded to one of the brand new villas, which are beautifully designed. Our room boasted a huge split-level bedroom and lounge area, a spacious bathroom with a large bath and separate outdoor shower.

But on the balcony, which had the most comfortable loungers on it, there is also your own private plunge pool! We couldn’t resist a dip while we looked out over the river and into the dark green recesses of the mysterious jungle beyond. If you’re coming all this way, the extra cost of these villas is absolutely worth it.

Where to eat

Again, the Borneo Rainforest Lodge hasn’t taken advantage of its position and provides surprisingly excellent food in buffet style for all three meals. There is also a made-to-order station you’ll find delicacies like wood-fired roast chicken and slow-roast pork, satay and carvery style beef and fish.

We also had an amazing lunch on the river one afternoon, with our own chef and waiter. It’s at extra cost, but for a special occasion, this is the most beautiful thing to do and incredibly memorable.

What to do

Jungle hikes are the order of the day and depending on your fitness level, length of stay and personal interests, your guide will show you as much of this virgin rainforest as possible.

The treetop walk, which goes up as high as 30 metres above the ground gives you a unique perspective from the canopy while a gentle afternoon of tubing – floating down the Danum River in a tire – lets you see the forest at a very different level.

Visit a traditional tribal burial site of a tribe that used to live in the area and explore the forest at night, which is the best time to see wildlife at its most active.

Semporna and the eastern islands

The busy port town of Semporna is the gateway to Sabah’s tropical island resorts and top diving spots, recognised as some of the world’s best.

There are over 2 dozen islands around Semporna each with its own attributes. We visited 2 of them – Mataking and Mabul.

Mataking Island

Mataking is the smaller of the two and has 1 self-named resort on it. Most of the resort is more geared towards families, groups of friends and people only interested in the diving scene, but the new villas on the other side of the island are more luxurious, private and romantic.

The waters around this island are spectacularly clear and warm, and the snorkelling is superb. We saw turtles and hoards of fish, including the local barracuda Charlie, who lives under one of the piers.

The food here isn’t great though and the service will leave you wondering if you’ve said or done something wrong, but if this isn’t important to you, and you love karaoke, you’ll enjoy everything about Mataking.

Mabul Island

Mabul Island is further south of Semporna than Mataking and is the closest island to the world-renowned diving spot and islet called Sipadan. There are a few resorts here, including a backpackers and a local tribal village. Most of the people working at the resorts are from this village.

We stayed at the Sipadan-Mabul Resort, which has two sides to it, the inland resort and the water resort. If you’re just here for the diving and you don’t care about the accommodation, the inland resort is fine. However, if you want the romance of the overwater bungalow villas you’re shown when you arrive, I’d urge you to pay more for the water resort.

The food and activities here on Mabul are pretty good, but the experience of sleeping above the water, and having your own balcony overlooking the sea is quite something. Watching lionfish, turtles, stingray and large needlefish swimming around our villa was certainly a highlight.

The snorkelling here is ok but the water wasn’t as clear around Mabul as it was at Mataking and the currents were quite strong. However, if we’d been here longer, we’d have tried the diving, especially as your room rates – apart from including transfers and food – also give you a multitude of incredible diving opportunities.

Have you ever been to the jungle? Do you have a favourite snorkelling or diving memory? Where have you been that you never thought you’d get to visit? Tell us in the comments!

Images by Mr and Mrs Romance using an OM-D E-M5 mark II Olympus camera and GoPro Hero4.

We travelled as guests of Sabah Tourism.

The post Into the wild – our essential guide to Sabah, the best of Borneo appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

It’s been a busy but spectacular past couple of weeks for us at Romance HQ. As you may have seen, we’ve been exploring the beautiful Malaysian state of Sabah in northern Borneo. Because we’ve got so much to show you from our trip to the Land Below the Winds, we haven’t included the usual Travel Recap section in this week’s IG Edition.

So sit back and enjoy as we take you on a journey from populous city to green mangrove regions, from virgin rainforests to the pristine waters of the Celebes Sea.

We start our journey to Borneo – after a relatively easy flight from Sydney to Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah’s capital city – with a look round our hotel.

The Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu is perfectly located for exploring Kota Kinabalu – or KK as everyone calls it. Plus it’s got this beautiful rooftop pool and bar facing west. The sunsets here at KK are known for their beauty and tonight looks like it’s going to make good on that promise!

Just across the street from our hotel is the waterfront markets. These are local markets selling mostly food – though there is a part of it that also sells locally made handicrafts too. Of course, we’re more interested in the food and the people it draws in.

I have no idea how this guy is basting the grill in this head, but it’s all for a good cause. Not only does it make the food taste amazing, it also brings the locals in for their dinner just after nightfall.

You can’t get much fresher than this. The waterfront market sells the fish it buys from fishermen that pull up out front to the kitchens further back in the market who then cook it all up. The fish here is amazing as are the (terrifyingly big) prawns.

We just wish we had longer here to really sink our teeth into the the place – literally and figuratively!

Today, we’re checking out how to make traditional batik art. There’s a programme run by College Yayasan Sabah to give local disenfranchised youth a chance to learn a trade that’s still in keeping with their customs but that will also give them business skills to survive.

These batiks are incredibly hard to make though these young artists make it look so easy. You start with a metal stylus of hot bee’s wax and draw in the lines of your design. You then use ink and water to colour in. The wax stops the colours from blending and the water creates amazing depth.

These students, who are studying under a local master craftsman, have 6 months to learn the trade. If they pass, they then go on to an ‘incubation period’ where they learn things like basic accounting, business management and marketing. They’re then kept on retainer for a further 6 months before passing the course with a recognised qualification.

It’s an amazing initiative and a rare glimpse of a government project working well for indigenous cultures. Visitors can come here and learn about batiks, try their hand at it and also buy some of the locally made handicrafts in the shop above.

This is in a building adjacent to the oddly shaped Tun Mustapha Tower 20 minutes north of KK.

One of those rare moments you capture that really tells of what the people in KK are like.

Today, we’re at the Kota Kinabalu Wetlands. The 1.5kms of boardwalks through the mangroves shows an important ecosystem that’s been ignored for far too long.

The NGO Sabah Wetlands Conservation Society has done some great work turning this from a somewhat forgotten bird sanctuary to a place of conservation, training, tourism and research. There is a small fee to enter (about AUD$5), but it’s a rare chance to see a thriving ecosystem in the heart of Sabah’s capital.

This morning, we’re up on the water visiting Gaya Island just off the coast of KK. This is the biggest island on this side of Sabah, so it makes sense that ‘gaya’ means ‘big’ in the local tribe’s language.

It also means ‘proud beauty’, which I think also fits well. This island, which is home to three resorts, also has its own miniature rainforest on it. This photo is from the one of the main jetties of Gaya Island Resort, who also has resident naturalist and conservationist Justin Juhun working here.

The work Justin is doing to restore essential elements to the island, like its mangroves, is fascinating. We’re lucky enough to have a quick trek through the rainforest with Justin on tracks he himself has formed. It’s beautiful, mysterious and really eye-opening how much nature there is here – even on this tiny piece of land.

The grounds of Gaya Island Resort are stunning. We wish we could stay here longer, but even a day trip here has shown us what the rest of Sabah has to offer.

One of the services they offer here at Gaya Island Resort is a private picnic lunch on the beach round the corner. It’s a pretty special thing to do – though you have to keep an eye on your food. The cheeky resident bearded pig Bacchus and his simian mates will do their best to steal your food.

Bacchus you can easily chase away, but the long-tailed macaques are far less bothered, so be warned!

This beach is accessible by a 45-minute hike along one of Justin’s tracks through the jungle… or a quick (free) boat tender from the main resort.

Our ride back to the mainland is brightened up by this beautiful sunset over Gaya Island. You can see how much forest is on this 1400 hectare island just 10 minutes from the busting streets of KK.

And we’re up in the air again. This time we’re heading for the world-renowned Danum Valley. Even KK locals are impressed when we tell them where we’re going. We can’t wait to get there and experience some of the most important jungle in the world and one of the last natural habitats of the wild orang-utan.

After a 2-hour bumping drive along unsealed roads into the forest, we’re finally here. This beautiful tree marks the start of the true primary forest, untouched and growing for 150 million years. Look at the size of this monster!

Danum Valley is a conservation area the Malaysian government has agreed to allow visitors into. It’s still hard to visit though; permissions are run by the Borneo Rainforest Lodge and Borneo Nature Tours. You have to be staying at the Lodge to come here as they no longer allow day-trippers.

For the price of your stay, you get more than just a room. Your entrance fee to park, your own guide, all meals and transfers in and out of the park are included. And believe me, you’ll need and thoroughly enjoy all of these things!

Danum Valley and the area you can explore is only about 15 hectares of over 1,000,000 hectares of protected jungle. You only get an idea of how much there is to learn about this magical place when you’ve spent a day trekking through this amazing environment.

This troupe of redleaf monkeys are more than happy for us to watch them only a few metres down the road from our room in the lodge. There’s just wildlife everywhere here!

One of the most popular parts of Danum Valley is the canopy walk. This network of bridges spans enormous trees and gives you amazing views of the forest from up to 30m up. To give you some scale, can you see our guide Paul behind me?

Deep into the jungle we go along some of the most beautiful walking tracks. All the way we’re surrounded by these spectacular trees.

Looking down from the highest point of the treetop walk, you realise how thick the rainforest is. You can’t even see the ground for most of the way. That’s Paul you can see down there on the lower path.

The plants here in the Borneo jungle are amazing. This is elephant ear plant grows leaves so big you could easily shelter under them.

We’re lucky to spot this guy as we’re driving out of the jungle. This is a pig-tailed macaque, and he’s quite the poser!

Some jungle essentials I thought I’d share with you – apart from leech socks, hiking boots and plenty of water, don’t forget your passport, Olympus OM-D E-M5 mark II camera with 12-40 zoom lens, iPhone 6, good binoculars and Jord wooden watch!

I call this my jungle chic collection!

Our room at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge is surprisingly luxurious. We’re in one of the newest villas – one of only three they’ve been allowed to develop on the land here. What a good job they’ve done. The other rooms are perfectly comfortable, but if you’re here, you might as well get the best room!

Danum Valley is a popular honeymoon destination and it’s clear why: so much natural beauty delivered so well. The guides and hospitality staff here are superb. And for a little extra, you can also have a private lunch right on the banks of the beautiful Danum River that flows round the property and on through the jungle.

The food here is also top draw.

It’s our last morning here in Danum Valley and the lodge has pulled out its last stop for us: this private breakfast with our guide and now good friend Paul. We’re really not looking forward to leaving the jungle – something I never thought I’d say. But this really is an incredible part of the world and somewhere I wish everyone could see at least once.

Just being here has made Mrs Romance and I both so much more aware of the environment and what the world probably looked like for millions of years before we came along and cocked it all up.

Having said that, the level of luxury available here at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge shows that you don’t necessarily have to compromise comfort for thinking green! Yes, this is our own private infinity plunge pool overlooking some of the most important rainforest in the world.

See luxury and environmentalism all in one!

By the way, yes we did see orang utans while we were here, but we didn’t get any good photos of them. But that’s ok – the memory of seeing these beautiful animals in the wild – happy in their own habitat without risk of attack or deforestation – will stay with us a long time.

It’s a long drive from the forest all the way to the see but finally we’re here: from the port town of Semporna on a high-speed boat transfer 45 minutes into the Cebeles Sea to Mataking Island.

Yes, this is the water we see as we pull up to the jetty, and no, we can’t believe it either!

Mataking is an interesting island. It only has the one resort on it – the aptly named Mataking Island Resort. The villa we’re in is on the eastern side of the island, which is about as far away from the main resort as you can get. If it’s romance and peace you want, these are the rooms you should go for. Closer to the resort isn’t as nice, the rooms aren’t as new (ours was built in Feb 2016) and there’s more noise.

The resort seems to have been built primarily for diving enthusiasts – the superb snorkelling just off the beach is certainly testament to that – and more recently there seems to be a focus on families and groups of friends. The main bar in the evening becomes a karaoke hotspot and there are plenty of kids running about, which makes this a good spot for family holidays.

On the northern tip of Mataking Island is this little sand bar that emerges at low tide to connect the tiny tree-covered island in the distance. It’s such a beautiful spot. Oddly, the water on the right is really quite hot while the water on the left is cool and refreshing. The fish seem to prefer the cooler water – and I don’t blame them.

The groups of snorkelers congregating near the sand bar behind me tells us there’s definitely plenty to see beneath the waves here.

Before the karaoke starts up, we find a quiet table to perch on and grab an ice cold beer. There is plenty of opportunity for romance on Mataking – you do have to get your timing right though. And if you’re not into diving, you might get a little bored here even though the snorkelling is that good and the water hurts your brain it’s that beautiful to look at.

—

Well, this is the end of our IG Edition for this week, but that doesn’t mean it’s the end of the coverage from our trip – not by a long shot. The most beautiful and romantic spot we went to is still yet to come, so make sure you’re following along on Instagram… or you can just hang on till next Monday for our IG Edition.

And if you don’t trust yourself to remember, I’ve got an even better option for you. By subscribing to our newsletter, I email you every week with a summary of what we’ve been talking about over the last 7 days.

Sign up to our free subscription service here.

So next week we’ll have the concluding part of our trip to Borneo and you’ll see the return of our popular Travel Recap section too.

Hope you have a great week and we’ll see you again soon.

Images by Mr and Mrs Romance via Instagram: @MrAndMrsRomance

The post From Borneo with love – IG Edition goes to Sabah appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.