In the far eastern spur of Mexico, almost touching the arm of Cuba, the Yucatan Peninsula hugs the southern Gulf and reaches into the Caribbean Sea.

This jungle-filled province is home to many thousands of relics the Maya built for their reign over Mexico and most of Central America.

Here are two significant archaeological sites of the Yucatan we visited while in Mexico. Once thriving cities of the Maya, now merely the white bones picked clean by time.

Zamá – the City of Dawn, Tulum

With the bright blue of the Caribbean sparkling beside us and the white gravel path crunching beneath our feet, we emerge from a low stone doorway.

It’s a doorway that, thousands of years before us, would have brought the Maya to their place of residence, their place of trade, their place of worship.

We are walking through history.

Beyond the doorway built into a three metre deep stone wall are the ruins of Tulum’s ancient Maya town and its clifftop citadel.

In fact, this wall and the imposing ‘El Castillo’ are where Tulum gets its name.

Tulum means ‘palisade’ or ‘wall’ in Maya.

Roaming the archaeological avenues woven between stones and pillars of this ancient walled city, we completely forget about the view across the sea that has captivated our attention up until now.

It’s not until we’re looking back across the cliffs to see the glimmering white sand of the Playa Ruinas that we once again remember that this Mayan ruin is the only one if its kind to sit on the coast.

All other Maya ruins are tucked away in the dark confines of jungles.

Here, the squat yet elegant fort sits in the most striking of contrasts to the swirls of soft sand sifting through the gentle eddies of the Caribbean shores.

Built with nothing but the strength of Mayan hands so long ago, it’s an interesting paradox that this age-old view has captivated so many on Instagram.

Cobá – the City of Broken Water

As we step aboard our rickshaw, I can only feel apologetic and grateful to the man at the pedals. We’ve taken too long to get here from Tulum and now we have to hurry our way through this incredible place of ancient culture.

Not that arriving early would help that much though.

This city of Coba was – and still is – vast.

It would take a whole week to explore all the grey ruins of this mighty place. But in the heat of the ailing afternoon sun, we roll along the many white-pebbled sacbé – the pathways throughout the city – admiring and trying to comprehend the magnitude of this place.

There’s an unpolished beauty to Coba. It feels as it must have felt soon after the early explorers discovered these ruins. As the jungle parts, you’re welcomed and at the same time admonished by the scale of this spectacle.

No truer is this than when you first see Ixmoja – Nohoch Mul as people call it.

What once would have been the grandest of all of the Maya temples in Mexico is now half shrouded to its shoulders by dense foliage. Once side has crumbled, while the other, still with its iconic stepped pyramid shape, faces the afternoon sun.

This is the highest pyramid in Mexico and, incredibly, you’re allowed to climb to the top.

It’s a strenuous, terrifying effort, with each tall yet shallow step threatening to pitch you backwards to the bottom. But at the top, you’re rewarded with drone-like views across the jungles.

Lumps sprout here and there, and although they look like little mountains, we’re assured these are yet undiscovered monuments much like the one on which we now stand.

Directly west of Cobá, hidden by the horizon and the dense jungles, is Chichén Itzá – one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. And these two sites are joined by a direct path – an ancient sacbé.

You can still follow the sacbé – if you have the time and skill. It’s said to be a pilgrimage like no other.

As we clamber carefully down the side of this manmade mountain, we see the tree line come down to meet us. It’s like sinking below the green waves. And we get a sense of the loss of a civilisation – the departure of the way of kings.

Cobá gets its name from the five lakes that the city was built around. Cobá means ‘Broken Water’ or ‘Chopped Water’.

Travel doesn’t end with a flight home

One thing we’ve learnt as we’ve been travelling is just because you’ve been to a destination doesn’t mean you should stop learning about it.

And if anything, finding out new things about a place you’ve visited takes you back there and elevates your memories of your time travelling.

Your new knowledge combines with your memories to create a fuller picture – to make sense of things you experienced.

Here are a 10 things we’ve learnt about the Maya of Mexico since we’ve been back:

1. Coba was one of the biggest Mayan cities. In its prime it would have had a population of around 50,000 people and covered an area of 27 square miles. For context, Manhattan is only 22 mile².

2. The largest pyramid at Coba – Ixmoja – is not only the tallest in the Yucatan but the whole of Mexico and the third tallest in the world. Ixmoja is also known as Nohoch Mul, which means ‘great mound’ in Maya.

3. The ruins at Tulum are the only known existing Mayan buildings that are on the coast.

4. Over 4,000 archaeological sites have been discovered in the Yucatan Peninsula, but there are still potentially thousands more hidden in the heavy jungles of the region.

5. The Maya have been around for at least 5,000 years – roughly the same amount of time as the Ancient Egyptians.

6. Other ancient civilisations with similarly grand structures had the help of animals to carry and move stone. The Maya had no beasts of burden – only the strength of their own hands.

7. The east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula – the state of Quintana Roo – was one of the last strongholds of the Maya, who were only really completely subdued in the early 20th Century.

8. Quintana Roo was named after a popular law man Andres Quintana Roo, who was key to forming Mexico’s independence from Spain in the early 1800s.

9. Cancun, the biggest town in the Yucatan Peninsula, is the easiest gateway to the Yucatan and Quintana Roo.

It’s also a party hotspot and little remains of the land’s history or heritage. Cancun means ‘pit of vipers’ in the Mayan language. If you’re not into in the hedonism of Spring Break or the apparent ‘luxury’ of resort travel, this is not a place for you. I think the name is very fitting.

10. In the 19th Century, the Maya rose up against their Spanish oppressors and were, for a while, successful. It was the greatest and most recent victories of Indigenous Americans and Mesoamericans to have been recorded.

One of the Maya we met, who was in his late 90s, talked about his father and grandfather fighting in battles with the Spanish. The Caste War went from 1847-1853, so longevity must run strong in his family!

I remember the stories he told us of fooling the Spanish soldiers by hiding in the trees and calling to their gods, which scared the Spanish enough for the Maya to fight them to victory.

The Yucatan Peninsula and Quintana Roo were the last places of the Maya to capitulate to Mexican domination, which happened in the early 20th Century.

The post Mysterious Cities of Gold – Maya ruins of Mexico to visit appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Chicago is full of fascinating history, beautiful architecture, incredible food and wonderful people. 

We’ve been lucky enough to visit this – my personal favourite American city – a couple of times now. It’s one of those excellent places that gets better every time you visit.

Simply walking the streets of the city will give you plenty to do, but our essential guide to Chicago will hopefully give you a bit more direction. It’s not an exhaustive guide by any means, so please feel free to add your own suggestions and recommendations in the comments below.

Essential guide to Chicago, IL

One more caveat before we get stuck in: although we’ve included a few local tips, this is a list based on our own experiences – we’re just a couple of people visiting from overseas.

Where to stay in Chicago

Being a big city, there are literally hundreds of places to stay in Chicago – and that’s before you even look at things like AirBnB.

But here are three hotels right in the Magnificent Mile and the Loop that we’ve enjoyed:

Kimpton Monaco Chicago

225 N Wabash Ave, Chicago

Perfectly positioned on the south bank of the Chicago River, the Kimpton Monaco is not only in the best location it also provides incredible service. Kimpton hotels are well-known for their above-and-beyond attitude, and the Monaco is no exception.

Our suite looked out over the river and was a highlight of one of our most memorable trips to the States.

Here’s our review of the Kimpton Monaco and video walkthrough.

Kimpton Gray

122 W Monroe St, Chicago

Deep in the business district of Chicago, you might not think the Kimpton Gray is in the best spot for holidaymakers. However, this city isn’t like most others, where the CBD falls dead on its face outside office hours. It’s alive all the time.

You’re also close to some of the best sights in the city.

For hotels, you can’t get much better than this newly renovated piece of Chicago history. In fact, this was the tallest building the world for a little while.

Check out our full review and video walkthrough of the Kimpton Gray here.

W Chicago Lakeshore Hotel

644 N Lake Shore Dr, Chicago

If your priority is to stay as close as possible to Lake Michigan, this hotel is for you. From the windows of our large ‘Spectacular King Room’, we had superlative views out across the water and the turning lights of the Ferris Wheel and Navy Pier.

From here, you’re a stone’s throw from Ohio Street Beach, Navy Pier and of course the Magnificent Mile.

Click here for our our review of the W Lakeshore.

Things to do in Chicago

There’s just so much to do in Chicago it’s hard to know where to begin. But we’re surprised every time we talk to locals that they recommend one thing above all others to do if it’s your first time here:

Chicago Architectural River Cruise

We weren’t sure if this was going to be any good, but from beginning to end, it’s worth your time and money. You learn so much about this amazing city and you get to see Chicago from a completely different angle. Highly recommended.

You can buy tickets to the cruise here.

And here’s our review of the Chicago Architectural River Cruise for more info – and an embarrassingly old photo of me!

Cloud Gate

Synonymous with Chicago is the giant silver sculpture near Millennium Park. Better known as ‘The Bean’ to the initial chagrin of its creator Sir Anish Kapoor, Cloud Gate is an iconic piece of public art that you just have to go look at. Its distorting reflections of the city skyline make for a fun photo, and walking underneath its 3.7m archway is a real trip.

Chicago Cultural Center

78 E Washington St, Chicago

Within the walls of the beautiful late-1800s building, which was once home to Chicago’s first public library, the Cultural Center is one of the city’s most visited places. Its magnificent stained glass domes and unusual decorations are fascinating, and the range of public exhibitions here means there’s always something to see.

Buy a Chicago CityPASS booklet

If you’re here for a few days, the Chicago CityPASS booklet gives you some awesome discounts (around 50%) on entrance tickets to the best sights of Chicago. The booklet also gives you great tips on the best time to visit each attraction, a top tip for your visit and also where to find food nearby.

You can buy the booklet online and have a digital copy on your phone, have a hardcopy booklet delivered to your hotel or pick one up at the listed venues. Either way, it’s the same price.

You’re given access to some of the best, most popular sights, and many of them give you express-lane access with this booklet too.

Here’s what’s in the Chicago CityPASS booklet:*

Skydeck Willis Tower

For a long time, this was the tallest building in the world. It’s till pretty high though! The glass boxes sticking out of the side of the building are an amazing experience. The express pass you get with the CityPASS book is worth its weight here.

Shedd Aquarium and Field Museum

We haven’t managed to get to these two places yet, but they look great. The Field Museum has an impressive collection of artefacts from Ancient Egypt and the largest, most intact fossil of a T Rex.

Either the Adler Planetarium OR Art Institute of Chicago

We didn’t go to the Adler Planetarium, but the Art Institute is awesome. More of an art museum, this place has an incredible range of works, including a huge Monet collection, which is wonderful to see. But there’s art here dating back 3,200 years. You could spend all day here, it’s a massive complex.

360 Observation Deck Hancock Tower OR Museum of Science and Industry Chicago

The Hancock Tower – also once the world’s tallest building – gives you completely different views of the city, four other states and of course the sparkling waters of the lake.

A neat trick to get up to the top of the tower without paying or queuing for the observation deck is to go to the bar the level below. Grab a seat by the window and enjoy one of the best martinis you’ll ever have.

The Museum of Science and Industry is in fact the last remaining building of the 1893 World’s Fair that really put Chicago on the map. Not only is this a stunning building, but it’s also the biggest science museum in the country.

*These attractions were correct at time of writing. Attractions in the booklet may be added and removed over time.

Visit the villages

A quick train ride north and west of the city centre will put you amongst a much more authentic Chicago than the one you see in the Loop or Mag Mile. Here are few we’ve been to and loved.

Bucktown and Wicker Park

Exploring the streets around these two suburbs with show you the more affluent semi-urban neighbourhoods of Chicago. Plenty of bars, restaurants and cafes here make it tempting to spend a lot more time around here.

Logan Square

With a bit more grit than Bucktown and Wicker Park, Logan Square has only recently been gentrified. There are still plenty of signs of this suburb’s tough past. There are some amazing bars, breweries and distilleries around here that are essential.

Revolution Brewing, Chicago Distilling Co, Scofflaw and Best Intentions are all awesome for drinks, chats and food.

Where to eat in Chicago

Chicago is an eating paradise. The food options here are amazing. From deep-dish classics to unique foodie spots hidden well away, here are a few we’ve fallen in love with.

Bar Biscay

1450 W Chicago Ave, Noble Square, Chicago

Perhaps one of the most understated, yet wonderful dining experiences you’ll have, Bar Biscay focuses on food specifically from the Atlantic side of Spain and a bit if France. The food is simple, but the dishes are well-executed – a tough balance to achieve. The bar here is also spectacular.

Rootstock Wine & Beer Bar

954 N California Ave, West Town, Chicago

Apart from one of the owners – Johnny Hap, we’re talking about you – being a bit of a nob, this place is cool. Their wine list is interesting and there’s a comfortable lived-in feel to the restaurant. As for the food, this may well be the best burger I’ve had. Big call, but it was superb.

Billy Goat Tavern

430 N. Michigan Ave at Lower Level, Chicago

A bit of an institution and a strange ol’ place to visit, this burger joint even has a Saturday Night Live sketch based on it. There are a few Billy Goat Taverns around the city these days, but the original is on the lower level of N Michigan Avenue. The burgers are bloody tasty by the way.

Portillo’s

100 W Ontario St, Chicago

The Chicago hotdog is a unique creature. And it’s what Portillo’s has made its own. Generally, a Chicago hotdog has a lot of pickle on it and sauerkraut. Portillo’s does it best.

You can read more about this dog and its other US counterparts and their history on our story here.

Oak Street Beach Restaurant

Talking of Chicago hotdogs, my first experience with one was at the Oak Street Beach Restaurant. Not only do you get to chow down on a fine example of a Chitown dog, you get to enjoy the people-watching on this popular lakeside beach.

Deep dish pizzas

Most locals won’t give you much for deep dish pizza recommendations. It’s not somewhere they usually go. However, if you push them, they’ll usually say either Giordano’s or Lou Malnati’s.

Giordano’s is pretty good, but it’s actually a ‘stuffed’ pizza with the cheese between two bases and rich tomato on top.

Malnati’s is the real deal with only one really deep dish. It’s something you should definitely experience once… maybe twice!

Recommendations from a local

With the limited time we’ve had in Chicago, we think we’ve done ok, but there’s still this list our Uber driver from the airport gave us (we love an Uber recommendation!) that we’re working on:

Al’s Beef – for another Chicago classic: the Italian sandwich.
I’ve heard that Carm’s in Little Italy is also amazing for its sandwiches.
Gibson’s Restaurant Bar – a city-central steakhouse
Heaven on 7 – great Cajun food
Ocean Prime and Harry Carey’s – both steakhouses with great reputations

Where to drink in Chicago

We were very excited to learn what excellent drinkers Chicagoans are. They love a sherbet. Because of that, there’s a whole host of watering holes all over the city. Supply and demand, baby!

Clark Street Ale House

742 N Clark St, Chicago

Possibly my favourite beer bar ever, I discovered Clark Street Ale House at the very start of a solo self-guided bar hop (sounds sad but I actually had the best time) back in 2013. They have an amazing selection on tap here that’s constantly changing. Snag a seat at the bar and enjoy the banter.

Revolution Brewing

2323 N Milwaukee Ave, Logan Square, Chicago

What a friendly place this is. From the moment we walked in to the point we dragged ourselves away, we loved it here. Truly superb beers made and poured here. The food is great too.

Chicago Distilling Co

2359 N Milwaukee Ave, Logan Square, Chicago

Just down the road from the Revolution Brewery, this distillery and cellar door has a very cool vibe but also some of the best rye and single malt whisky you’ll find. We took a bottle of their Blind Tiger Rye away with us. They also do great cocktails here. My corpse reviver hit the spot!

Bar Biscay

1450 W Chicago Ave, Noble Square, Chicago

The food is great here and that’s Biscay’s focus. But the bar deserves its own mention. Not only are the shelves insanely well-stocked but the people holding the shakers really know what they’re doing.

Best Intentions

3281 W Armitage Ave, Logan Square, Chicago

That sweet spot between a dive bar and a speakeasy, Best Intentions is a lot of fun. From the ‘Fancy Cocktails’ sign above the bar to the old-school arcade games out back, you’ll want to stay here for just one more after each round.

FYI, they serve Angostura bitters on tap here. Try it – they serve it in a shot and it’s actually awesome.

Scofflaw

3201 W Armitage Ave, Logan Square, Chicago

This swanky little bar does a very fine (enormous) martini – to the point where we needed to put the glass on the table and trust the meniscus!

Well worth your time, Scofflaw (a name for an illegal drinker during Prohibition) is the embodiment of hygge – that Norwegian word for a cosy place that makes you feel comfortable and at ease.

Redhead Piano Bar

16 W Ontario St, Chicago

Have you ever had the feeling that you’re actually on a film or TV set and not real life? That’s kind of what you get at Redhead’s.

When you grab your drink and go and stand at the round bar, and listen to the pianist playing Piano Man in the middle of it while everyone – and I mean everyone – sings along… it’s magical and so much fun.

There’s also a great little courtyard here perfect for a late-night cigar… they even have a humidor. Just sayin’.

How to get to Chicago

It used to be a long and annoying journey with at least one connecting flight to get to the Windy City from Australia. But that’s all changed now.

As of April 2020, Qantas has direct flights from Brisbane straight to Chicago, with plans to fly direct from other major Aussie cities, including Sydney, coming together nicely.

Otherwise, why not just get anywhere Stateside and work your way to the Windy City through one of the greatest countries to travel in. Our last trip to Chicago, we arrived via Kansas City, MO – barbecue of the world!

You can read more about our time in KCMO here.

Do you have any hot tips for exploring Chicago? Tell us in the comments below!

The post Could Chicago be the best city in the States? Our Essential Guide to the Windy City appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

To say we were excited about being in Kansas City is an understatement. We’d been talking with our awesome friends Melissa and Peter for ages about coming here.

Melissa – a KCMO local – now lives with Peter in San Francisco and we’ve often visited them there, exploring the many bars and cool spots of SF.

But we were thrilled at being able to see where Melissa grew up, meet her friends and fam, and see the sights the City of Fountains.

Why ‘City of Fountains’? Kansas City is home to 200 of them.

And that’s not the city’s only nickname. It’s also known as Paris of the Plains, Cowtown and of course KCMO, which makes the important distinction between Kansas City, KA and Kansas City, Missouri by the way.

But the nickname we’re most interested in is this one:

Kansas City – BBQ Capital of the World

Many cities in the States claim they’re the barbecue capital – Kansas City’s eastern Missouri neighbour St Louis for one. So what makes KCMO different to the rest?

In a word: sauce.

Kansas does what you might call a wet barbecue. The meat is important of course, but it plays second sax to the sauce. And each barbecue house has its own proprietary blend.

In St Louis by the way, they have a drier style, focusing on the rub and smoke on the meat.

Whatever.

Our hearts are with Kansas barbecue and we’re all about the sauce now. Here’s our pick of five places not to miss.

By the way, if you don’t know what ‘burnt ends’ are, read this first or everything you’re about to read will sound weird.

Q39

The newest of the barbecue places in the city, Q39 has shot to notoriety thanks to its beautifully worked branding and fame in national pit smoker and barbecue competitions. You can check out their array of trophies and awards on display.

Inside, Q39 its barn-like open space is run more like a modern restaurant than the cafeteria style of most traditional BBQ spots in KC. Rather than ordering and collecting your food at the counter, you’re seated with menus and servers come to you with table service.

However, there are nods to the old school with an open kitchen, lots of pictures on the walls and a caddy of sauces on every table.

The food at Q39 is excellent and comes more elegantly presented than other places. The brisket, which is served sliced into long thick strips is tender and the burnt ends are delicious. As for the ribs, they’re juicy but not fall-off-the-bone tender as promised.

This is all moot though as the sauces they make here are excellent. Spicy, herbaceous and a good hit of vinegar.

Good for newbies or where you could take your date for a BBQ.

Jack Stack Barbecue

A real institution in Kansas City and a successful chain in the city too, Jack Stack has all the feels of an old-school American steak restaurant.

There’s even a bronzed cow statue outside.

Inside, booths are the call of the day and cheery servers come to take your order at your table. This was our first experience of KCMOBBQ and what a great way to get things started. Soon enough, we’d filled our table with delicious food and tucked in merrily.

Christina went in straight for the burnt ends, which were excellent, and my baby back ribs went down a treat. My spare ribs were a bit chewy though. The sauces here are excellent, though I found it hard to pick the really spicy one out of the selection.

The real take-home from Jack Stack though was more what came with the meat. This place does the best sides in the state for sure. The beans are sweet and are mixed with the sauce, the mac n cheese is great but the cheesy corn is mind-blowing.

Jack Stack used to have the recipe for its cheesy corn on its website for a while, but not anymore. Probably just as well for my heart’s sake!

Most unexpected was the dessert. Although we were stuffed to gills, our server managed to convince us to try the carrot cake. Christina, who isn’t a fan of cake anyway, was sceptical, but when it came, it took all four of us by surprise.

A solid option for a fancy dinner with family and good friends.

Gates Bar-B-Q

Visiting Gates Bar-B-Q is like stepping back in time – in a good way! Filled with memorabilia from the cast iron hobby horse you can ride for a quarter to the old Gates signs from when its founder George Gates opened Gates Ol’ Kentucky in 1946.

Ordering at the counter from the aggressively friendly kitchen – they shout ‘Hi, may I help you?’ in a very forceful manner – you get to choose from a range of options that are bewildering to the first-timer.

As first-timers, we turned to the guy fidgeting to get his order behind us and asked him. Straight away, he told us he was getting a whole rack “because they’re the best” he explained. They’re also good value at $25 a piece. And you get to choose your rack too. If you’re brave and hungry enough.

We were neither and went for burnt ends and sides of beans and pickles. I think we chose very wisely.

Served in a ‘hoggie’ – a pillowy soft giant hotdog bun – the generous portion of burnt ends were tender and fragmented, and smothered in the best sauce we’d tasted. This was serious.

As for the beans, they were sweet but not too much, and the pickles were thick-sliced and delicious. But the sauce… I fell in love with the extra hot sauce and bought a bottle to take home.

At the door, we discovered a complete lack of wifi to order an Uber home and ended up waiting for ages for a taxi to come.

In the meantime, the guy on the door, who had been working here for decades, told us the owner and George’s son Ollie Gates was somewhere in the warren of rooms. He was having dinner with his daughter and watching the game.

He kindly took us to meet this venerable gentleman, who left his meal, his daughter and the game to have a photo and a quick chat with us. We were very impressed.

My favourite place in Kansas for BBQ – sorry Bar-B-Q. The best sauce we had and best burnt ends too. Choose your Gates Bar-B-Q location carefully. Each one has a different vibe. We went to the Emanuel Cleaver II Boulevard venue.

Jones Sisters’ Bar-B-Q

A way out of town and on the Kansas State side of the city, Jones Bar-B-Q has seen a lot of changes happen recently. The focal point of the TV show Queer Eye, which is based in KCMO, the two sisters who run the joint have turned this place around.

Deborah ‘Shorty’ and Mary ‘Little’ Jones took the pit over from their father and still mix their sauces and barbecue their meat every day.

But the little shed they cook from just off the highway now has a garden with seating, they have proper signage and their sauce, which you can buy (we did!) comes in a fancy glass bottle.

As for the food, the meat is well-smoked and tender. Our burnt ends and beef slice came with two sides. The beans here are excellent and come full of chopped burnt ends too. The slaw is also worth ordering.

Jones Bar-B-Q has a lovely local feel to it. One of the sisters, Shorty, was in the kitchen when we were there and enjoyed Christina’s Aussie accent. In the garden, one of their friends was busy selling her homemade 7-Up pound cake and bantering with customers. It was a lot of fun.

A great experience with the bonus of delicious food. Come here early though as they often sell out of meat. Remember to grab a $1 beer with lunch too!

Arthur Bryant’s Barbecue

A place with real history, Arthur Bryant’s is considered by many to be the most famous barbecue diner in the whole country.

It’s been here for ages and you wonder as you walk in how much things have changed. Our guess is: not much.

Old pictures virtually cover every wall of how things used to be, though the photo of Woodrow Bacon, who’s been working here for over 60 years reinforces how little Bryant’s has changed.

It’s got such a local vibe, its edges have a bit of roughness to them, but the food speaks for itself. That and seeing a cop park up and stride in. The floor’s a little slippery from grease, there’s a funky smell about the place and the metal banister at the counter is a bit wobbly.

But the barbecue here is amazing.

You order from the purposefully surly kitchen – and don’t hang around they’re in a hurry – then collect your pickle options from the stand.

Once laden with your meat, you find a table and feast on huge chunks of superb burnt ends, sandwiches packed with tender sliced brisket and baby back ribs to die for.

The three sauce options are fun to try, though the original is the best. As for sides, the beans are dark and brooding though sweet and rich, and the potato casserole is truly excellent – like a mushed up cheesy potato bake.

Such an institution, Arthur Bryant’s is a must-visit in Kansas City. It’s down the road from the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, which is also a priority for visitors. You’re also near the Boulevard Brewery that’s really worth a visit too.

Make sure you know what you’re doing before you come here. It’s good, but can be a bit confronting for a bar-b-q newbie.

A note on Joe’s Bar-B-Que

We heard again and again that going to Joe’s – formerly Oklahoma Joe’s – is a must, but we also heard that a 45-minute queue for food was normal. I love my barbecue as much as I love a local recommendation, but I hate queuing more. Sorry Joe. Maybe next time.

By the way, there are a few Joe’s Barbecue places in KC – the original venue that’s part of the gas station is apparently the best.

Mr Ollie Gates and us inside Gates Bar-B-Q, Kansas City

The post Kansas City – BBQ capital of the world appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

I’ve been Jonesing to get back to Chicago since 2013 – when we were there last. It feels like a lifetime ago.

Finally, we’ve managed to organise ourselves enough to get back to the Windy City and I’m seriously excited. Last time we were here, Christina was at a conference, leaving me to my own devices. 

This time, we’re together the whole time, which means I can finally show her some of the things I saw plus explore the city a bit more thoroughly. 

We only have four days in this incredible city, but I think we manage to fit in a pretty good amount. I think we’d be able to do more if we weren’t so weighed down by our own gluttony – a gluttony (almost) sated by the incredible barbecue things happening in Kansas City, our previous port of call.

But here we go: Chi Town as seen by Mr & Mrs Romance!

Cheers – Jim & Christina xx

From Kansas City, we’ve climbed aboard a Southwest Airlines plane and learned there’s a whole new way of boarding a flight! If you haven’t heard of this before, look it up – Southwest do it differently!

They also give you not one but two free checked bags – a thing unheard of in the USA. And not only that but their in-flight service is excellent too.

Anyway, as we come in to land at Chicago’s Midway Airport (way nicer and closer to the city than O’Hare by the way), I get that tingle of excitement I always feel when I’m excited about a destination… or it could be the margaritas we’ve just had.

Yes, we did!

Our first stop – obviously – is to our hotel. We’re staying in the beautiful Kimpton Gray Hotel right in the city. 

We unpack and examine our room, which is – like the rest of the hotel – fun, yet sophisticated, young, yet in keeping with the classic aesthetic of the building. It’s a difficult balance, but they’ve nailed it here. 

We head downstairs to dinner at the hotel’s restaurant Steadfast, where I feel duty-bound to try their wagyu, which is exceptional. Christina’s salmon looks superb too (she doesn’t let me try any!) and our friend Ann’s pork shank is enormous. 

For such a food-centric city, Steadfast holds its own and clearly operates independently of the hotel.

Check out our review of the Gray here.

The Gray truly is a stunning building. It was in fact the first skyscraper to go up after the 1871 fire. Like I said, the aesthetic to this place is wonderful; grand, luxurious and stylish. 

We’ll have a full review of this coming, don’t worry. In the meantime, if you’re heading to Chicago, we’d recommend this hotel for certain.

This morning, we’re out and about checking out the sights. Of course we had to come here to see The Bean – or as I’m sure its creator artist Sir Anish Kapoor would prefer ‘Cloud Gate’.

It’s such an unusual, iconic sculpture. In fact, it’s more of a monument.

While we’re feeling arty, we head to the Art Institute of Chicago next. This is a truly enormous facility and could easily take up a whole day if you wanted. 

Sadly, we don’t have the luxury of a whole day to spare, but we do our best!

Far from just being a gallery, the Art Institute of Chicago is a museum, an education facility and a keep of treasures. 

There are pieces from all over the world from all times here. Ancient Greek and Roman artefacts, even Etruscan. And the Asian collection is kind of mind-blowing. They have things here from the 12th Century BCE. 

Probably my favourite part of the Art Institute though is the impressionism section. They have an enormous Monet collection and even have this classic – A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat. Amazing.

For one last drop of culture, we find our way to the Chicago Cultural Center. This building really needs to be seen first-hand. For starters, everything you see in this photo that’s coloured is made of glass mosaic. It’s insanely beautiful.

There are some fascinating installations throughout the centre, but it’s really the building itself that’s captivated us. At times the staircases are like something from an Escher drawing.

This evening, we’re at Bar Biscay, a belter of a restaurant that seems to punch way above its weight from what we’ve seen. 

We’re here as part of a group to explore the wonders of rare natural French wines brought to us by Pierre Gastaldello from Bobo Wines. It’s interesting to hear him talk about the challenges and respective rewards from buying, drinking and enjoying wine that’s made by small producers who don’t add anything but the grapes to their wines. 

The wines are paired intelligently with superb food by Bar Biscay’s own head chef Johnny Anderes, who’s created an impressive degustation menu to champion each varietal.

One of the wines we try tonight is this wonderful Cabernet Franc by Nicholas Reau. He designed the label to mimic a parking ticket he saw in his hometown in France – it’s a notice your car’s about to be towed but translates nicely to demand you take the wine.

Beautifully made, this wine goes exquisitely with the slow-cooked leg of lamb and olive tapenade Chef Johnny has made.

After dinner, owners Scott and Sari sit with us at their excellent bar and chat over a couple of drinks. 

Scott’s full of great yarns including a story of how he met Benicio Del Toro in Puerto Rico, hid him from crazed fans, took him to a bar next door.

Over a couple of beers, Scott explained what a fan he was of Hunter S Thompson – it was around the time of The Rum Diary – and Del Toro offered to call Thomson for Scott to chat to. It would have been about 3am.

Scott said no and laments saying so to this day, but I think his whole story is a pretty Hunter S Thomson tale anyway. No regrets, buddy.

This morning, we’ve moved hotels! Still in the warm caress of Kimpton, we’re now in The Monaco, right on the river. And this time, we’re in a suite. Not just a suite, but a penthouse suite. 

Not bad, ay?

Of course, there will be a full review coming up of this marvellous hotel too, but I don’t think it needs to be pointed out how amazing this place is. The view is incredible, the room is vast and spectacular, and the hotel itself is full of the lovely details that make Kimpton hotels such an easy choice when you’re travelling.

You can read our review of the Monaco here!

As we gaze out the window at our view, Christina notices the bridges along the Chicago River are lifting. 

We don’t know how common an occurrence this is, but all the bridges along the river are going up to let a fleet of sailing yachts through. The congestion it must be causing through the city makes us glad we’re up here looking down, but being able to watch it all happen is quite extraordinary.

It’s the little touches that really take a hotel from being just a comfortable place to sleep to somewhere you’re sad to be checking out of at the end of your stay. The Kimpton Monaco Chicago is certainly one of those. 

The attention to detail – just in our room – is amazing. Art on the walls, interesting furnishings, pretty decorations and USB ports everywhere… I really don’t want to leave this room. 

Finally we take to the streets to see more of the town. It’s getting chilly here in Chicago, but every now and again the sun will pop out and warm us up.

Walking down by the river and across the bridges around the Magnificent Mile, I could very easily get used to this city.

We’ve made our way to the Willis Tower – what was once the tallest building the world. Views from up here are, as you’d expect, extraordinary.

It’s well worth coming here to see out over the city, the lake and – in fact – across three states. It’s $45pp to come up here, but we have Chicago City Passes, which are around $100 each. Kind of almost pays for itself already.

The ticket up here includes a second visit in the evening to see the city lights, but also a host of other attractions that, if you’re in town for a while, will really save you money.

Access to the Shedd Aquarium, the Field Museum, Adler Planetarium, the Art Institute of Chicago, which we’ve also used, the beautiful Museum of Science and Industry, which is in one of the last remaining buildings from the Chicago World’s Fair that saw the advent of the Ferris Wheel, and the 360 Chicago Observation Deck in the Hancock Tower. 

The Willis Tower’s Skydeck and Ledge is a little unnerving, but an amazing experience. You’re literally hanging out over the edge of this 442m skyscraper with nothing stopping you from dropping than a sheet of glass. Look how happy Christina is.

After all my barbecue escapades, I’m not feeling as confident as Christina, but I’m the only one on the glass here and I’ve just seen a whole family jump up and down on the glass. I should be fine!

We walk the streets of Chicago until our feet are sore and we know it’s time for bed. It’s such a great city – even Madonna thinks so!

We don’t have tickets to the Chicago Theatre, so instead I take Christina to one of my other favourite music spots: the Redhead Piano Bar. It’s a classic where a guy plays the piano and everyone sings along. It’s like being at the the drunk un-aired end of an episode of Cheers. It’s amazing. 

It’s only right that we take a quick walk to Navy Pier. It’s an icon of Chicago and the Ferris Wheel (not the original from the World’s Fair – that one got sent away south and fell apart at the turn of the 20th Century) turns slowly creating an amazing backdrop to the city.

Now, hang on, I hear you say. What about all the food and drink you guys usually love talking about? So far, you’ve only talked with any detail about one place.

Well, brace yourself. Here we go…

At a certain point, we had to do it. Last time we were in Chicago, we tried Giordano’s for a deep dish pizza. This time, we’re at Lou Malnati’s and I think we have a winner. 

There are a number of places around the city doing this style of pizza – with a crusty base, a thick layer of cheese topped with chunky tomato sauce and Italian sausage, but sadly we don’t have time to see more. 

It seems also that Giordano’s does a filled pizza, with an extra layer of pizza dough base between the cheese and the tomato, which some think of as cheating.

Whatever. Lou’s is a good pizza.

We also try another Chicago cuisine at another institution: The Chicago hotdog at Portillo’s. These dogs are full of stuff you wouldn’t get in other cities. The giant pickle you see is one!

Would I recommend a Portillo’s dog? Absolutely! I’d also recommend learning more about the culture and history of the hotdog – I found out so much when I wrote this piece on America’s iconic morsel.

While we’re at the whole food institution thing, Christina and I also hit the Billy Goat Tavern for a cheeseburger… or should I say ‘cheezborger’.

It’s a place that was lampooned and sent to fame in a Saturday Night Live skit when the likes of Dan Aykroyd and Bill Murray were still there. Check out the skit here.

The cheeseburgers are definitely worth seeking this place out. Absolutely delicious. I think we’ll be talking more about both Portillo’s and the Billy Goat again soon too!

This afternoon, we’ve taken the train out to the villages north of the city. Here at Logan Square, which used to be a real dump from what a local was saying, the bars, restaurants, breweries and distilleries are popping up everywhere. 

Indeed, our time at the impressive Revolution Brewing on North Milwaukee Avenue is the best. We sit at the bar and Steven, who’s pouring brews, is a deadset legend. 

We try so many of the brewery’s beers including the flabbergasting Cafe Deth – a black porter blended with a local coffee roaster’s beans to make a thick, unctuous brew that’s both caffeinated and 14.8% – an interesting blend and way better than any espresso martini you’ll find.

Our next stop, just a little up the road, is the equally impressive Chicago Distilling Company. We get chatting to Aaron behind the jump and learn a bit about the distillery. 

They make plenty of white spirits – in particular a lovely gin. But they’ve also started selling their aged whiskey too now, which is exciting. Aaron gives us a taste of the single malt they’re doing – wow! Amazing.

They also make a superb rye called the Blind Tiger, which I had to buy a bottle of – especially at the price of $54. Magic.

We pop into a very cool, cosy bar on the way along called Scofflaw. Highly recommended – they also stock Chicago Distilling’s Flinn’s Gin. Of which we have a (huge) martini each. Hic!

After a bit of a walk, we stop in at Best Intentions – a cool little hipster divebar with good drinks and original arcade games out the back and a very cool looking beer garden. If only it were warmer.

We pull up at the bar after a couple of rounds of Buck Hunter and Calvin the owner talks to us about why he has Angostura Bitters on tap. After a shot, I see why. It’s actually amazing! He goes through five gallons a month!  

Next, it’s time to walk off some of the booze. We hike right across Humbolt Park to a crossroads with food and drink on all four corners. First we hit Cafe Marie-Jeanne for a beer, a plate of steak tartare (my weakness) and a meat and cheese plate. 

The tartare is good – a little chunky – but well seasoned, but the cheese is amazing.

The cheese is a delice and ‘Good Thunder’ – a creamy brie style and a lovely stinky washed rind. There’s plenty of sliced coppa on the plate but for the price I’m not so sure the cheese is worth it. Or maybe it is. I don’t know.

Finally, we head across the ‘kitty corner’ diagonally to Rootstock. It looks kind of filthy on the outside in a way that would probably stop germaphobes at the door, but inside is clean, warm and comfortable. 

We pull up at our favourite spot: at the bar.

Until this point, everywhere we’ve been the whole time we’ve been in Chicago, people have been so friendly. Sadly, our run ends here with a real asshole behind the bar.

We were ‘graced’ with the presence of co-owner Johnny Hap, who seems to think he has the personality to carry off being confrontational with customers and doesn’t realise he’s coming across as simply rude. Or maybe he does and doesn’t give a toss. 

It’s a real shame because the people we meet on our side of the bar are amazing; friendly, fun, great company. Even more of a shame is that the wine list is excellent here (I try and strike up conversation with Johnny about a particular wine on the list and why it’s there. He explained it was what the supplier gave him) and the food is annoyingly good.

This burger should probably win an award somewhere. I’m serious.

Meat-focused, perfectly seasoned, charred outside and cooked to order. It’s really worth the journey. Just roll those dice on who’s working the bar when you’re there!

It’s been an amazing time here in Chicago and if anything, it’s just made me want to come back again sooner.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this Edition.

Cheers – Jim & Christina xx

The post Wandering the Windy City – Chicago in 4 days appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Cuba’s fascinating cultural make-up, its political stance and its recent history has made this Caribbean island nation a unique travel destination.

It’s almost impossible to put your camera down as you explore Havana’s streets. The capital’s crumbling elegance, the Cubanos’ easy-going nature and the omnipresent beat of salsa and rumba music, not to mention the incredible quality of light here, are infectious.

It’s a recipe that makes you want to try again and again to capture the moment that sums up Cuba. It’s an impossible wish of course, but it’s so enchanting, you just can’t stop trying.

Check out our 5-minute video snapshot of Cuba – the city, the country and the beach:

Click here to view the video.

Here are our top tips for shooting in Cuba, plus Christina’s favourite photos from one of our all-time top travel destinations:

Postcards from Cuba

El Capitolio – the National Capitol Building in Havana was built in 1929 and was modelled on the Washington Capitol building. After extensive renovations, it has just re-opened after being abandoned by Castro as a sign of capitalism.

Old cannons are used as bollards in Habana Vieja – Old Havana – where you can get lost in the cobbled streets.

In 2014, I wandered past this tree at night, and then on our last trip, I found it in the day. It grows ever taller from the buildings, and its leaves provide a dappled light to the streets of Old Havana.

As a mini project, I began to photograph street signs for Jim to include in a video. It’s so easy to navigate Havana, and there are lots of signs and a grid street layout. A mini project like this can help you to notice the small details, which really bring a place to life.

So many of Havana’s buildings are in a bad way, but there’s colour everywhere.

Wires follow their own path around Habana Vieja. Take care when using “power showers” too as you might get a shock…

Art deco lights and pretty painted tiled signs adorn the corner of Calle Habana.

Calle Cuba cuts the length of Habana Vieja

Calle Obispo dates back to 1519, and was a shady path through the centre of Havana. Now it’s one of the most popular streets, busy day and night, with tourists and locals alike (and more than a few hustlers too)

5 tips for photography in Cuba

1. Be respectful

Ask for permission to photograph people if you’re working on your street photography. “¿Permiso?” (‘Permission?’) will result in a nod or a shake of the head, or also likely a proffered hand. Tipping a few CUCs will leave both parties happy.

Just because the scene is amazing and you really want that photograph of a local, remember what it’s like if someone aims a camera at you without asking.

2. Shoot early in the morning

If you just want photos of the architecture without tourists and or locals in your shot, just after sunrise is best. It’s calm and quiet even in the busiest parts of the capital. You’ll also be rewarded with a gentle, glowing light as the sun comes up.

3. Hit town at Golden Hour

Golden Hour – that time in the early evening when the sun’s setting and the yellows and reds really pop – is a well-known photography favourite. In Cuba, you get remarkable effects at this time of day, and it’s also great for lively street photography.

Golden Hour and Blue Hour change from day to day and place to place. This impressive app by AlpenGlow tells you exactly when and where the light will be every day.

4. Be careful what you’re shooting

Each country has different rules, customs and social norms for photography. In Cuba, please do not try to photograph military or police personnel, or government buildings.

You may well be asked to delete the images from your camera or phone, and in some instances the officials have been known to confiscate devices.

Also be aware that if locals ask to have their photos taken with you or by you, they will want money. Not much – just a couple of CUCs – but just so you know. They’re often dressed in bright ‘traditional’ Cuban clothes or toting large cigars, and you’ll see them in busy tourist areas.

5. Bring everything you need with you but be careful what you bring in

Make sure you have everything you need before you go to Cuba. Photography equipment will be expensive if it’s even available or compatible, and the same goes for memory. Don’t rely on internet speeds and availability for back-ups in Cuba either.

Remember that Cuba is still a relatively closed country and they don’t like anything that could be surveillance or media equipment. Don’t try and bring your drone into Cuba – or do so at your own risk. Anecdotal evidence suggests customs officials enjoy confiscating them and other high-tech gear.

Now, on with the postcards!

Strands of garlic for sale in Old Havana. You’ll find lots of small markets being pushed around the small side streets, as you can see in the background.

This postcard from Cuba was definitely inspired by the fabulous photographer, Jilly Bennett. When I noticed this good boy taking a rest, I had to stop and capture this moment.

These ornate rocking chairs will always remind me of Vinales, Cuba. On every verandah, you’ll find a rocking chair where you can relax and watch the world go by. And in the small town of Vinales, you’d be surprised at the wonderful sights you’d see.

My favourite time to shoot is early in the morning. I always felt safe walking alone in the streets of Havana with my camera in hand. I’m guessing that behind this painted door live some very lovely people who care for the neighbourhood stray cats. There was quite a line up waiting for them to get up on this morning.

These cute coconut-shaped 3-wheelers are called Coco taxis and are an inexpensive way to get around Havana.

As the sun sets along the Malecon, fishermen line the sea wall angling for a catch.

Cruising by the Capitol building in Havana, Cuba

On the top floor here you’ll find the only Camera Obscura in Latin America. Invented by Leonardo da Vinci, and best viewed on clear days like this, you’ll see a 360 degree reflection of the city in a mirror.

We love sharing our favourite photos in this ‘Postcards From…’ series. Here are some others.

And if you want more of our stories from Cuba – we have itineraries, guides and information posts all on this beautiful Caribbean nation – click here for our full Cuban library.

Now tell us, which was your favourite out of these postcards? Tell us in the comments below!

The post Postcards from Cuba – and 5 tips for photography in Cuba appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

It’s easy to imagine barrows and carts, heavy with barrels, rumbling across the red-brick paved mall of the historic Distillery District. In its 1800s heyday, this part of Toronto was home to Canada’s (and at one point the world’s) biggest distillery.

But when Gooderham and Worts Distillery sold its soul to Hiram Walker Co – maker of Canadian Club Whisky – in the 1920s, it served as a countdown to the end of the Distillery District’s life. By 1987, the company was in ruins, the district was closed and its buildings fell into dereliction.

Fast forward to June 2017 and the Spirit of York Distillery – so named after York, Toronto’s original name – opens its newly licensed doors.

The Distillery District by that time had been a cultural hub, historic site and shopping mall for some years, but the Spirit of York brought back the true nature of this beautiful Victorian redbrick precinct.

Spirit of York Distillery – the true spirit of Toronto

Beautifully crafted within the confines of the Victorian redbrick, the Spirit of York Distillery offers visitors a chance to experience both the historic and the new side of Toronto. While the owners have done well to retain so much of the old building, the new fixtures and furniture fit perfectly in the space.

The little bar to the side is cosy and cute, while the main run-around bar in the centre of the room creates enough impact to cope with such a lofted ceiling.

Check out our very quick video walkthrough of the Spirit of York Distillery:

Click here to see the video.

All around the room are tables and displays talking about the site and offering merchandise and products. We really love the spiral design of the Spirit of York’s bottles. It must make them so much easier to use as displays!

But the most impressive part of the Spirit of York’s cellar door is of course the huge glass wall at the back. Behind this massive window is the working distillery itself. You can sit at the bar and watch the spirits being made, which is amazing.

And while you sit, why not try what they’re making?

What’s different about the Spirit of York?

There were 4 spirits available when we were there. A gin, a vodka, a whisky and an aquavit. You might think this is all standard fair for a distillery, but there’s one important difference: all these spirits are made from 100% rye grain.

Rye is a notoriously difficult product to use as a spirit and I haven’t heard of anywhere using it for vodka – and definitely not for all products on offer.

Spirit of York’s head distiller Mark also tells us they make their own base spirit here on site too, which is impressive. Base spirit is a pain to make and most distilleries just buy it from manufacturers.

What to drink at the Spirit of York Distillery

Neither Christina nor I were driving that day, so we had a tasting paddle each.

All four spirits were delicious, but we were surprised that we both liked the vodka the most. Some think vodka doesn’t have any taste, but we know this not to be true. Our friends making Small Mouth Vodka in Sydney are testament to that.

Spirit of York’s vodka has a beautiful sweetness and caramel that also gives the drink a bit of body too. Behind the bar, our new friend Kerry tells us that this makes a great dirty martini.

The gin is good, though a little light on juniper. Kerry tells us it’s perfect for a negroni, and I’m always up for a negroni.

The aquavit, which is a delicate, light spirit, is minty and herby, and hints of coriander come through. This one’s good with tonic and a cucumber slice. Very refreshing.

Finally, the whisky has nice clean caramel tones, and you can taste the grain. It’s still quite young at 3 years old, but I think it’ll mature well. In an Old Fashioned, this whisky really shines, especially for me, as I love a rye Old Fashioned.

Interestingly, to be call a rye whisky in Canada, there are no regulations for how much rye the distiller uses, unlike the USA, which has to use at least 51% rye in the mash. But this one uses 100% rye. Well, I find it interesting anyway!

Spirit of York came under fire from the purists for their whisky, as they hadn’t aged their first release for the minimum 3 years. Instead they’d used small barrels, which age the whisky faster because of the relative surface area contact.

You still get lots of flavour doing this and the product is still authentic, but regulations are regulations I suppose. It’ll be interesting to see what happens from this.

We’d love to come back and try their cocktail ideas with these spirits. When we were there, they were still waiting for their licence to sell anything more than tasting samples. Now I’m sure you can try a cocktail or two here as well.

Historic Distillery District

Toronto has plenty to see and do, and even more to eat and drink, but a visit to the Distillery District well worth the trip. As Gooderham and Worts Distillery – the founders of this part of town – grew in the mid 1800s, they had to build more buildings.

Exploring the redbrick streets, we discovered sculptures, shops and restaurants hidden away, plus the beer hall and brewpub of Mill Street Brewery. Good for a bite to eat and even better for a pint of beer, this busy ‘Germerican’ pub has plenty going for it. You can even book a tour to have a closer look at the brewery while you’re there.

And keep your eye out for festivals and events going on around the Distillery District. There’s usually something happening in what’s widely seen as Canada’s top spot for art, culture and entertainment.

Since 2003, when this once-derelict site re-opened, the Distillery District has given visitors a taste of Victorian Ontario. With the opening of the Spirit of York Distillery, the final piece of this site’s long jigsaw tale fits into place. And what a pretty picture it is.

If you enjoyed this story, you should also check out:

– Where to eat in Toronto – 5 must-visit venues
– An Englishman, a Scotsman and an Australian walk into a distillery…
– Behind the scenes of an Australian craft whisky makers

Have you visited Toronto? What’s your favourite part? Is there a place you’ve been to that’s been given a new lease of life? Tell us about it in the comments.

The post Sip the spirit of Toronto – Spirit of York Distillery appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Thanks to its significant Cuban expat population, Miami, Florida has a kind of duel culture. The beachside party town glam of Florida’s Gold Coast has combined with the untouched salsa spirit of Cuba, and what’s come of it is truly unique.

Here’s our video of Little Havana to give you a taste of what it’s like there compared to the real thing:

Click here if you can’t see the video.

As 8th Street heads to its eastern edge, the fascinating suburb of Little Havana really comes to life. It’s fascinating because it’s both like and unlike anything else you’ll find in America.

You get similar Hispanic hints in places like San Diego’s Old Town, but there’s something distinctly Cuban about this part of Miami. And that’s what makes it different.

But the thing that made it even more interesting for us – coming straight from Cuba to Miami – was to see how the Cubans here represent their homeland capital in America.

Little Havana, Miami

Down the broad, straight American street that locals here call Calle Ocho, evidence of Cuban influence is clear.

Cuban flags and salsa beats fill the air, and restaurants offer ropa vieja and Cuban sandwiches – though this particular dish didn’t exist on Havana’s menus until recently.

But things feel a little fake. A little forced.

It’s not until you spot the little details that you realise the authenticity of Little Havana.

In Maximo Gomez Park – also known as Domino Park – we were drawn to the clack-clack of the dominos slamming down. Tables and tables of Cuban gents all playing the age-old game. But closer inspection shows these dominos are distinctly Cuban. Instead of one to six dots, these pieces go up to nine. And it’s a much more confusing game.

You’ll also find people selling long thin cones of white paper filled with peanuts. If we hadn’t been to Cuba, we’d probably have found this quite strange, but these little snacks are a common sight on the streets of Havana.

Food, drink and entertainment in Little Havana

Like most places in Miami, there are plenty of watering holes and food venues in Little Havana. From American fast food joints to little family-run Cuban paladares, 8th Street has plenty to choose from.

But the most compelling and also the most interesting on Calle Ocho is the Cubaocho Museum and Performing Arts Center. With live bands playing frequently and impromptu salsa dance-offs happening too, it’s the perfect spot for a mojito or a cubata. Sit at the bar, watch the people and soak up the notion of Cuba.

Further inside Cubaocho is a wealth of old Cuban artefacts, furniture and artwork worth going to see.

Also worth looking at are the cigar shops on Calle Ocho. Some of them have people hand-rolling cigars in the traditional way. Of course, these won’t be Cuban cigars, but the rollers look like they’re doing a pretty professional job. Though they’re much slower than the pros we saw in the Partagas factory we visited in Havana.

Funnily enough, you’d never see people rolling cigars on the street in Havana, Cuba. They’d be arrested immediately. The only legal cigars produced in Cuba come from government-run ‘factories’. Everything else is essentially a bootleg product.

How much does Little Havana hold up against the real thing?

Obviously Little Havana is missing the old grandeur of Havana proper. The history, variety and elegant neglect of the architecture in Havana is like nowhere else on earth. Its narrow looming streets full of life and minimal pavement create a unique feeling as you walk through Cuba’s capital.

However, Little Havana is much cleaner than the real thing, which is desirable. It’s also safer in respect of avoiding traffic. The freedom and relative wealth the people in Little Havana have makes us both sad and hopeful for the Cubans still in their homeland.

And with the coming tide of tourism to Cuba, perhaps we’ll be seeing a Taco Bell and a MacDonald’s on Havana’s streets – just like on Calle Ocho.

Is it worth visiting Little Havana?

Little Havana is as unique a place as real Havana. But then all of Miami is just as unique. No two places are the same.

Little Havana is great if you’re looking for a tiny reminder of your time in Cuba. It’s fun, colourful and almost as full of life as the real thing. Nothing quite beats actually visiting that beautiful island nation, and we’d recommend spending time in Cuba to anyone who wants to see something extraordinary.

If you haven’t been to Cuba yet, some of the little details we enjoyed might pass you by. But seeing the exposed heart of a major element of Miami life explains something of what this city is about.

Many of the older Cuban Americans came to Miami fleeing persecution of the Castro revolution in the ‘50s and – seen by the Cuban state as traitors – they haven’t been back home since.

It made us wonder if we were seeing the Havana the locals remembered from their heydays before everything in Cuba changed.

Have you been to Little Havana in Miami? What did you think? Have you ever been to a smaller version of a city you’ve fallen in love with? Tell us all about it in the comments below!

The post Little Havana, Miami – is it anything like the real thing? appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Modern, multicultural and down to earth, Toronto’s food scene is in the enviable position of not taking itself too seriously. Its patrons – local and visitor alike – are allowed to expect playful, creative menus and delicious dishes that take influence from many cuisines from around the world.

And thanks to its incredible diversity, Toronto offers one of the widest ranges of food options we’ve ever seen.

The surprising sight of a Thai-Hungarian fusion restaurant on Queen Street West illustrates our point perfectly.

It also highlights Toronto’s sense of humour, which you can also spot from the names of some of the places in town: The Jerk Spot jerk chicken restaurant, The Dirty Bird chicken and waffles, The Burger’s Priest, Fat Bastard Burrito Co…

The Torontans (?) have a lot of fun with it all.

Being spoilt for choice is never something you can truly complain about but trying to decide from the onslaught of eating options in Toronto is frustrating.

Locals are aware of this and are therefore always keen to give their best tips. Here are our top 5 places to dine, which have mostly come from recommendations from Toronts. Torontinos. Torontonians… let’s go with that last one.

Where to eat in Toronto, Canada

If you’re looking for the main wealth of food and entertainment options in Toronto, your best bet is to make your way to Queen Street West. That’s where the majority of eateries, bars etc have lined themselves up.

However, not all the best ones are on this street.

1. Atmospheric with great cocktails

Death & Taxes Free House

1154 Queen St W

We found this place almost by accident. After a full day of exploring Toronto – mostly on foot – we spotted this cool corner bar just before we ordered an Uber home.

An old-style bar and speakeasy lighting welcomed us in and even more welcoming staff showed us to a (rare) spare table at the back near the kitchen.

Our bearded waiter took us through the menu and my rubber arm twisted right round when he mentioned the cocktail special of the evening was an old fashioned.

Burgers here are the order of the day (I’m talking in my all-time top 10), though everything we watched come out of the tiny kitchen looked amazing. Servings here are generous, so either arrive hungry or early with time to sit.

2. Café style

Drake Hotel

1150 Queen Street West

A popular spot with locals at all times of day, the Drake Hotel’s café lounge is open from 7am-11pm, and the window seats at the front of the venue are prime for people-watching.

It’s a bright airy space where people like to come and work, have meetings or just relax for a chat. We were very impressed with this spot and I’m sure it’s a lot of fun in the evenings too.

Food wise, the contemporary menus at The Drake are great illustrations of what a modern city Toronto is. Delicious morsels from healthy chia bowls and green juice to the impressive Drake Burger and hearty wild boar rigatoni.

3. Canadorama sports bar

Wayne Gretzky’s Toronto

99 Blue Jays Way, Entertainment District

Canada loves its ice hockey. I think that’s an easy statement to make. And Wayne Gretzky – an NHL hockey great – is revered like a god. It stands to reason that Toronto, which is where Gretzky started his professional career, is home to his eponymous sports bar and restaurant.

Perhaps not the most subtle of sights to visit in Toronto, if you’re looking for something truly Canadian, come here, grab a beer, order some poutine and watch one of the many many TVs showing ice hockey and various other sports around the place.

We liked the Gretzky memorabilia throughout the venue and the feeling that for some, this would be hallowed ground. In fact while we were there, we spotted a patron with a Gretzky ice hockey shirt on having lunch.

Gretzky’s is also right across the road from a Wahlburgers restaurant – owned by the Wahlburg family – if you want to continue your celebrity tour.

4. Platter central with craft beers

Otto’s Bierhalle

1087 Queen Street West

With an amazing craft beer list to drink from, very cool lighting and a raucous, fun atmosphere, Otto’s is already a foodie highlight for Toronto. Add to that a German-esque menu that has some excellent shareplate options and you’ve got a night out to remember.

Our friend L took us out here, but it wasn’t just the food and beer that she wanted us to experience.

The bathrooms at Otto’s Bierhalle have a little secret: each one has a big red button on the wall. Press it and turn your everyday nose-powdering experience into a full discotek moment!

5. Brewery style pub

Mill Street Brewery and Brew Pub

21 Tank House Lane, Historic Distillery District

Earthy, friendly and all about the beer, Mill Street Brewery’s brew pub, which still makes beer on the premises, has some excellent beers to match the hearty pub style food that’ll keep you seated and sated all day long.

In fact the menu has a great range of fare from giant pretzels to Thai curries. And with daily specials that are worth looking out for you’ll need at least one beer to drink while you read!

Mill Street Brewery is in the Historic Distillery District, a beautiful broad old-brick laneway that used to be home to the city’s distilleries. There is in fact a distillery here again, which you can visit.

Spirit of York Distillery, which only opened its doors in 2017, makes all its spirits with 100% rye, which is a real rarity. Grab a flight of 3 spirits to try at the bar and see if you prefer their gin, whiskey, vodka (which is actually excellent) or aquavit.

Read our full review here.

Dessert bonus

Bang Bang Icecreamery

93A Ossington Avenue, Trinity-Bellwoods

Tucked away round the back of Queen Street West in Trinity-Bellwoods, this ice cream parlour is an absolute must even if you don’t have much of a sweet tooth.

The ordering process is a little bewildering – for instance if you order an ice cream sandwich with cookies, you can only have 1 flavour… this only makes sense once you get your ice cream, because the cookies are so thick you could only ever cope with 1 scoop of ice cream.

There are a range of different ways to have your ice cream and each of them is awesome. Christina had hers in a Big Bang Cone, which is a weird bubble waffle shaped into a cone then filled with her choice of ice creams.

The range of flavours is extraordinary too, with clandestine names like ‘London Fog’ and ‘Totaro’ on offer or more prescriptive flavours like Bellwoods stout beer and brown bread, and avocado… be prepared to ask for help ordering at least once!

Our advice is check their opening times (either 1pm or 3pm depending on the day) and get there just as they open. You’ll be facing the back of a queue otherwise. Our other – more important – piece of advice is GO HERE. It’s the kind of ice cream experience you’ll always remember.

We’ve also got a quick rundown of other things we got up to in Toronto. You can read about that here.

Do you have a favourite place to eat in Toronto? Where do you go for your bacon in Hogtown? Tell us in the comments!

The post Where to eat in Toronto, Canada – 5 must-eat venues in the TO appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

Swarming and jostling, the crowd pushes and heaves as it waits collectively to buy its tickets on the corner of Hyde and Beach Streets. It’s where everyone comes to get their cable car tickets so they can hang off the side of one of San Francisco’s iconic trolleys as it clambers up the city’s steep hills.

The problem is there are 2 queues.

The first one only gets you the ticket. The second line, which seems to last even longer, is where you wait until your car is ready.

If ever there were limbo on earth, it’s here. Caught in the perfect tourism trifecta of the Ghirardelli building, the Buena Vista Café and Fisherman’s Wharf, this square where the cable cars turn and start their journey full of visitors is where you come to spend your holiday in a line.

But not for us.

Thankfully – mercifully – we’re with locals. And boy, do they know this city. Of course, we pop into Ghirardelli’s to check out the chocolates. We stop in at the Buena Vista for an historic Irish coffee (or two!) and we promise ourselves a cob clam chowder lunch at Fisherman’s Wharf later too, but one look at the line for a cable car ticket is just too much for our San Franciscan friends.

The secret San Francisco cable car line that has it all

They whisk us away through the quiet streets of San Francisco’s downtown Financial District (it’s the weekend) all the way to California Street towards the Ferry Building. Soon enough a cable car comes rumbling toward us.

And you know what?

It’s empty! We hop on the back – just like you see in the films and talk to the conductor as the tram pulls away.

You can buy tickets on board, but you have to pay cash. The cool thing is if you’re ok with standing, your ticket will be cheaper. That’s because the California Line is more of a local line than for tourists.

Commuters use the California Line to get to and from work, and they prefer to sit.

Where does the California Line go?

Running east to west across the city parallel with Broadway, the California Line starts from Drum Street where California Street begins. It runs 18 blocks all the way to Polk Gulch district at Van Ness Avenue.

You can find info on schedules and ticket prices here on the Muni site.

It’s a great ride up and down those typically steep-then-flat hilled streets of The City. Hanging from the poles of the streetcar, leaning out over the road and looking out down California, you get glimpses of the bay. It’s amazing you’re still allowed to do this, as cars and trucks run past quite close and they don’t slow down.

It’s exhilarating and a lot more fun than I thought it’d be.

You can even watch the driver crunch the complicated looking gears of the tram then lean on the pole that works the brake as you trundle through busy intersections, feeling very much part of this fascinating city.

What can you do at the end of your ride on the California Line?

Polk Gulch isn’t really the nicest area of San Francisco and when the sun goes down, we’ve heard it’s not a great place to be. However, there are perks to this area. For a start, House of Prime Rib just up the road on Van Ness worth a visit if you like your meat and cocktails.

We hopped off just before the end of the line and strolled around Polk Street until we found Shanghai Kelly’s – a fun sports/dive bar worth popping in for a quick drink and soaking up a very local vibe.

A bit back from Polk Gulch, however, is Nob Hill and then Chinatown, which are worth checking out.

Otherwise you can just call an Uber and go pretty much anywhere you want!

If you’re looking for other things to do in San Francisco, you’ll love these stories:

San Fran? Frisco? Baghdad by The Bay?! What should you call San Francisco?

When the sun shines in San Francisco

When the rain falls in San Francisco

Our library of other stories on The City

Have you ever ridden the San Francisco streetcars? What’s your favourite tip for The Golden City? Tell us in the comments below.

The post How to ride a San Francisco streetcar without the queues appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

I’ve wanted to visit Miami since I was a little kid. Don Johnson and Miami Vice, Dan Marino and the Miami Dolphins, and later the inspiration behind my favourite game GTA Vice City, I couldn’t wait to see what this place is like.

This was our first time in Miami and we were keen to get a good look at the place. We only had a couple of days in this fascinating eastern US city, but – as usual – we really packed it in. Here’s our snapshot guide to Miami, Florida – what to do, where to go and – most importantly – what to eat!

If you’ve only got a couple of days in Miami, this guide will help:

Snapshot guide to Miami, Florida

Miami beach

And after just leaving Cuba, Little Havana in the south of the city was high on our hit list. But first the beach…

South Beach Miami really comes up to expectations. It’s enormous, showy and there’s always plenty going on. Sun loungers and umbrellas line the sandy horizon and even on a quiet day there are people everywhere.

This is Saturday afternoon and everyone’s getting their rays in before the party starts.

But the beach isn’t just for people. There are vehicles everywhere. Beach bikes and lifeguards’ jetskis are ubiquitous, but there are also cars driving up and down the sand.

In fact, you need to be careful when you first set foot on the beach as the first 50 metres are a designated road for (authorised) vehicles to hurtle up and down.

If you’re looking for the heart and soul of this city though, you have to come to the beach. It’s what everyone dresses for, it’s what everyone looks for and it’s what everyone comes for when they visit Miami. Florida.

Miami South Beach Boulevard

As the evening draws in, so the main strip along Miami’s South Beach wakes up. The afternoon sun sees bars unveil their happy hours and DJs kick start their playlists.

This is one of the better times of the day to find a spot and people watch!

The beachside venues quickly fill up with parties. If the classic Saturday night ‘scene’ of drinking games, pumping music and crowds isn’t for you, it might be time to find a new place to enjoy Miami.

This part of town at this time of night made us feel old before our time. The moment we walked past a bar were a staffie was doing a 25-second countdown for a girl drinking a litre cocktail. We knew South Beach was about to get messy.

However, bad it gets in Miami, it’s always good to see the boys (and girls) in blue are ready to help. It’s also good to see they have an open mind about things! Love this rainbow cop car outside the station.

Miami Beach’s lifeguard towers and sunrise

One thing not to miss on Miami’s South Beach is the lifeguard towers. Each one is designed and detailed differently. And as you’re on the east coast, the sun rises over the water, which is always something to enjoy.

This guard tower – painted up with the Stars and Stripes – is very popular (translation: we had to wait a while to get a shot of it without loads of people getting photos and selfies with it) with everyone who visits this part of South Beach.

If you’re here on a weekday though, you’ll have fewer people to compete with for a clear shot of the towers.

Getting up early in Miami is very rewarding. The parties have all but finished and the vibe is much more chill.

Make sure you pick a lifeguard tower you like the day before and put it in the shot with the rising sun. If you’ve got a DSLR camera or a mirrorless camera like our favourite Olympus camera, set your camera to F16 or F22 on Aperture Priority mode and you should get solar flares like this.

Alternatively, even if you’re shooting with your phone, hold your sunglasses up to the lens and see if that effect makes a difference to your shot.

Got to love beach shots with sunrise over the water. Thankfully Christina even enjoys getting up in time to see and shoot sunrise, so I get to stay in bed and enjoy the fruits of her labours. I’m much more of a sunset type of person!

Miami’s Little Havana

Little Havana is a fascinating suburb of Miami. As Cuba went through its revolution in the 1950s, lots of the Cuban elite – worried about the changing political situation – left the country.

People left for lots of different reasons; political, financial, ethical, moral. Most of them came to Miami, which is only 90 miles from Cuba.

We were excited to see how Little Havana measured up to our recent experience in the real Havana.

Although Little Havana is a mere shadow of the real thing, it’s still definitely worth coming here.

On SW 7th Street – the main hub of Little Havana, there are lots of little details you can find here that will seem weird unless you’ve been to Cuba. The ladies selling long white paper cones of peanuts and old men sitting in the park playing dominos with pieces that have from 1-9 spots rather than the traditional 1-6 are good examples of this.

Allow yourself to be pulled into bars by cool-looking old men offering great drinks and live music. Listen to the latin tempo and watch the salsa. It’s worth the slightly expensive mojito.

Little Havana may not be the most accurate depiction of Cuba, but it’s fun, safe and interesting. Well worth a visit. Plus your (probably Cuban) taxi or Uber driver will be happy with your story of your visit.

The Cuban population here has caused a remarkable influence over the town, where people now openly recognise the Spanish influence and that the majority of Miami’s citizens are Cuban or are Spanish native speakers.

Miami’s personality – Museum of Ice Cream pop-up

Miami, like a lot of America’s coastal cities, has a good sense of humour and knows what its visitors and locals want. There’s always something going on and always something different to enjoy.

The Museum of Ice Cream is a great example of this with all its bright colours, fun nature and lure of sugary excellence.

To be honest the ‘museum’ part of the Museum of Ice Cream is a bit loose, with only a brief stat session at the very beginning to educate. However, the brightness, fun and clever design of the space is really what everyone’s here for. Oh, and ice cream of course!

Even the stairways are bright enough to give you a sugar hit. If there’s ever a time for you to find your inner child again, it’s in Miami in a pop-up like this.

We’ve made our way to the roof, which overlooks part of Mid Beach. They’ve rewarded our sugary climb with an ice cream – not that we need any more. This whole concept is so Instagram worthy:

As you can see, the Museum of Ice Cream can make even me have fun – or at least make me look like I am! That swing is actually not made for blokes if you know what I mean!

We came away from this pop-up happy, sugared and full of the Miami zing. Check out the MoIC website to see if there’s a pop-up about to happen near you. It’s worth going to.

Miami’s beach clubs, bars and hotels

Miami’s club culture is as strong as its beach one. Pretty much anywhere there’s a coastline you’ll find upmarket hotels, private pool clubs and bars that offer all kinds of fun. A lot of them are only open to members or to hotel guests, but lobby bars are still for anyone to try. It’s fun to explore what’s around and have a snoop around the expensive hotels too.

We pop into one of the many hotels along the boardwalk along Surfside. You can’t get into the beach clubs unless you’re staying in the hotel, but you can drink in the hotel bars, which hare beautiful.

The Fontainebleau Hotel on Collins Avenue has a stunning bar called the Bleau Bar, which you should check out.

I love ordering local beer from wherever I am. You can’t get much closer to Miami than the Biscayne Bay Brewing Co, and their beer is superb. It’s not just at Bleau Bar that you can find it, but it’s not a bad place to spend a few dollars and a couple of hours.

The designer hotels all along this strip are crazy and beautiful. It feels a bit like Vegas, but on the beach and without the casinos.

Miami’s Española Way and burger scene

Miami’s food scene has really worked hard to get things here. We’re so impressed with most of the food you can find here. Service, however, is not as good as some other parts of the country (West Coast, I’m looking at you). It’s not terrible, but it’s not terribly good either.

Just an expectation manager, not a complaint by the way. We had some amazing service in some places (a guy in a burger joint actually poured us an extra beer and brought it to us free of charge and wouldn’t accept a tip) but others even getting a smile or your food can take a bit of effort – from all parties!

If you’re looking for the food hub of South Beach, Miami, Española Way is your go-to. There are so many places to try, you could eat here every night for a week and famously still only find your favourite on your last night.

By day, things look pretty calm, but by lunch, things have ramped up and you fee. like you’re about to get into trouble.

By night, Española Way becomes a thriving hotspot for laneway al fresco dining. You can find anything from Italian cuisine to earthy cigar bars here. Plus, if you’re staying at the El Paseo Hotel also in the street, you get a 15% discount off your bill in this food precinct.

Our first meal here in Miami is in Española Way. We’ve stopped in at an Italian seafood place called Mercato della Pescaria. The wait staff are funny, talkative and keen to lay on the Italian charm thick.

The food comes out and it’s delicious. Octopus, squid, double fried potatoes… you get the impression early on in this city that you’ll eat well.

We’re also eager to test out the burger situation here. Let’s see what we can find…

Being on the East Coast means access to Shake Shack – one of the more predominant burger chains. On the West Coast, you can’t find this chain. Instead you have In ‘n’ Out Burger.

We haven’t had a Shake Shack burger since we were in New York about 4 years ago. It’s still as good as we remember (especially the fries) but the question still remains: what’s better – Shake Shack or In ‘n’ Out?

We also pop into more of a national burger joint: Burger Fi. These guys are everywhere in the States and they really mean business. The burgers are big and full with some epic options for your sandwich, but most impressive are these mega onion rings. I could definitely find one of these places again.

Wynwood Walls – Miami’s street art

The street art scene in Miami is fascinating – especially when you come to its heartland: Wynwood. This old industrial suburb north of the city used to be a real blackspot for crime to the point where cops would do their best to avoid it at night.

Now, it’s a thriving hipster community with some awesome art installations.

Everywhere you go in the Wynwood Walls area you see enormous wall murals of street art. Some of the work is absolutely incredible and you can book tours to take you round in little buggies.

There’s also a formal Wynwood Walls museum you can visit. It’s a city block of the best work, which is updated regularly.

You can also find some great bars and places to grab a bite to eat here, so the opportunity to spend the day (and most of the night if you want) here is open to you.

If you’re looking for the best bar in this part of town, we highly recommend Gramps. It’s a fun bar able to turn out some excellent cocktails. Dark enough inside to give you that old-school divebar feel, but with an expansive beer garden out the back well worth checking out.

We’ve enjoyed our time in Miami, though it took us a little while to settle in and find our particular groove in this peculiar town. Arriving in South Beach on a busy Saturday night almost put us off, plus expecting the same kind of vibe as California set us off on the wrong foot.

Miami is much grittier, pushier and gruffer than places like San Diego and San Francisco, but don’t let that put you off. Dig a little deeper beyond the usual tourist trail and past the party people cutting loose and you’ll find a city with an expressive, arty heart.

The strong Spanish influence over Miami decorates this beachy, slick, irreverent city with a flourish that adds an intriguing dimension. There’s so much to Miami, it’s a place that will always tempt you back for a return trip. It’s not a case of if; it’s a case of when.

Have you been to Miami? Do you have any tips to add to our snapshot guide to Miami? Tell us in the comments below!

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