With so many incredible places around the world to visit, you might wonder why Christina and I love sticking so close to home.

The funny thing is, when we’ve been overseas and have made our way home, we’re always impressed with just how good Sydney and NSW stands up against the most beautiful destinations around the world.

And while we’re always on the lookout for our next far-flung adventure (and the opportunity to get some use out of the world’s most expensive passport!), exploring our own backyard never gets boring.

But don’t worry, we’ve still got plenty of stories on some our favourite places like Lake Como.

Where to travel in New South Wales

Let’s follow the compass on our journey round NSW!

Go north

The Hunter Valley

Who guessed I’d start this guide with wine? No, I’m not surprised either! And the Hunter Valley certainly deserves as much credit as it always gets.

The oldest wine region in Australia, the Hunter has some incredible places to visit with astounding countryside and cellar doors to match.

If you don’t believe me, check out these tips on wineries recommended by long-time local and winemaster, Ian ‘Scarbie’ Scarborough of Scarborough Wines fame. These guys make the best Chardonnay you’ll ever taste by the way, and their cellar door experience is incredible.

We have a host of other reasons (not just wine… but mostly!) to visit the Hunter Valley. Check out our other reasons to visit this beautiful part of the state.

Port Stephens

Right next the Hunter Valley on the coast, Port Stephens is still (amazingly) a gem hiding in plain sight and not far from Sydney.

We’ve been coming to this pretty peninsula for years now and know the area well. Not only are there plenty of places to eat and drink, the beaches in Port Stephens are astounding. What better way to unwind after a long lockdown?

Here’s our essential guide to Port Stephens to give you a taste of what you’ll find here.

Maitland

Caught between the Hunter Valley to the south and Newcastle to the east, Maitland has long had the reputation as a ’30-minute town’ – in that it’s half an hour’s drive from both its bookend destinations.

But back in the mid-1800s, Maitland and its even smaller neighbour Morpeth were an epicentre of the colony.

There are still vestiges of those thriving times still to see now, but the real joy of this town isn’t its history; it’s the food.

There are so many remarkable places to eat here, we left after a weekend barely able to fit into our car, let alone our clothes!

Here’s where to eat in Maitland, plus our other stories on this fascinating part of NSW, whose history we’ve all but forgotten.

Byron Bay

Perhaps the biggest punctuation on the northern NSW coastline is Byron Bay. And justly so. Not just the town, but the whole area is brimming with beauty… and superb food.

You’ll find eating here very satisfying with so many venues offering local produce grown and crafted with love.

There’s a whole host of places to try here, as you’ll see from our compilation of where to eat in Byron, but there’s also so much to do here.

And of course, the whole area is so pretty – check out our Postcards story if you don’t believe me. 

Head south

Southern Highlands

Southwest of Wollongong, the Southern Highlands makes for a perfect escape from the city and a wonderful place to get away from the long lockdown.

Each little town in the highlands offers something different, as well as a burgeoning wine-making culture, though all are connected by one wonderful filament of gold: pies.

And every year, the Southern Highlands has Pie Time – a celebration of everything pastry.

Pie Time – a wonderful week in June of pie glory in the Southern ‘Pielands’ – is has this region at its best.

2020’s Pie Time is going virtual, with 1-7 June going for ‘Pie-solation’ celebrations, encouraging Aussies far and wide to pie up at home and share their pastry yarns online with #pietime and #piesolations. 

Berry

On the other side of the mountains to the highlands, this wealthy country town has been a popular stop for motorists for many years – though now the bypass misses Berry, it’s mercifully a lot quieter.

You’ll find pies to die for here too and Mt Hay Retreat up in the hills is a superb place to rest your head.

South Coast and Mollymook

The NSW South Coast has long been a popular haunt for Sydney holidaymakers, and rightly so. It’s absolutely stunning here. Pristine beaches, delightful food options, friendly locals… it’s hard not to like the South Coast.

One of the highlights of our time in the South Coast was when we stayed at Bannisters by the Sea at Mollymook. It’s a pretty little retreat in a quaint little seaside town with the other obvious asset of Rick Stein’s famed restaurant.

This iconic eatery aside, there are so many excellent food options in this part of the Shoalhaven to try. 

Other parts of southern NSW

Our last roadtrip before Covid-19 struck was down through the southern parts of NSW and into Victoria. We had decided to do our own Empty Esky in aid of the terrible bushfires that ravaged so much of the state.

That all seems so long ago now – even though it’s only a few months back as I write this.

It was, however, a blessing, as we were able to experience some amazing parts of the state that hopefully will still be the same the next time we visit.

Places like Batemans Bay and Moruya, Tumut and its wonderful brewery, the bakery at Howlong and Corowa’s distillery – you can find them all detailed here in our Empty Esky story… and you’ll find them all in person as you enjoy the beauty of New South Wales.

Enjoy the Central West

Travelling west of Sydney is such a different experience to going north or south along the coast. The landscape is so different, and the locals even more so.

Orange

One of the first places west of the Blue Mountains we ever visited, Orange is packed with truly superb food and wine. It’s a mountainous area, with a cool climate and high elevation, which makes the produce here even better.

Here’s our essential guide to Orange, NSW to get you started. 

Mudgee

Another wonderful western town that’s even friendlier than Orange and with perhaps even better wine and produce is Mudgee. There’s something about this place that really kept our hearts. We can’t wait to go back.

Here’s a hit list of where we’ll be eating when we go back plus our top tip for where to stay while you’re there. Honestly the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in… and I’m really picky!

The Blue Mountains

Arguably the most famous inland landmark of New South Wales are the Blue Mountains. This little section of the Great Dividing Range, which runs north to south some 3,500km, has so much history and beauty to it.

Here are seven ways to experience the grandeur of this landscape, which we highly recommend if you haven’t been here for a few years (it’s all been updated). And here’s where stay in the Blue Mountains too.

For more of our stories of the Blue Mountains, click here. 

The City

Of course, there’s no need to go too far if you don’t want to – or if you don’t have enough time. Sydney has so much to offer visitors and locals alike. We love a staycation here in the city, and we’ve written so much about our times here.

You’ll find everything from Sydney hotels and restaurants in the city to things to do and places to see.

But if you’re only in town for a short while, here’s what you can do in 24 hours.

And for more ideas for easy Sydney weekend getaways, check out this champion story!

If you’ve got more time on your hands and want to deep-dive into the research, here are more of our stories on places we’ve explored in New South Wales. 

Of course, we haven’t been everywhere in New South Wales… though we’re working on it. We’d love to go west and see what it’s like further inland. The farthest west we’ve been in NSW is Mendooran – a tiny town near Dubbo, where a particularly good whisky is made.

But every town between Sydney and Broken Hill has its story. And there’s time to hear them all.

Do you have a place of priority you want to visit as soon as travel restrictions lift? Tell us in the comments.

The post Where To Go In Australia’s First State – our NSW destination guide appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Right on the shores of Sydney’s waterfront entertainment quarter, Sofitel Darling Harbour is perfectly positioned for a luxe Sydney getaway or – in our case – a romantic staycation.

Darling Harbour is packed with restaurants, bars and fun things to do — from bowling to one of the world’s biggest cinema screens, the aquarium and Wildlife World, not to mention an impressive weekly fireworks display over the water framed by the city and the historic Pyrmont Bridge.

Also within walking distance to the Sofitel Darling Harbour, you’ve got the ever-evolving dining scenes of Chinatown and Thai Town, King Street Wharf and Barangaroo.

But that’s if you even want to leave the comfort of your hotel room, a dilemma we certainly struggle with during our stay!

Where to Stay in Sydney — Sofitel Darling Harbour

Though it’s not the tallest hotel in Sydney (or even in the area for that matter), Sofitel Darling Harbour still has amazing views out over the city and way out to the west — a point that really stands up as the sun sets.

And it’s certainly worth booking a room as high as you can — above level 28 in particular — as this gives you access to Accor’s exclusive club service ‘Millesime’. But more about that later.

Inside our Superior Room

Compact but still very comfortable, especially for our two-night stay, our room is generously furnished and well designed. But it’s the extra features that elevate Sofitel’s rooms to the quality you expect from this internationally renowned hotel group.

The room has all the basics covered: bed, bathroom, table and chairs, but they’re all done with a bit of flex.

The bed is enormous and has a beautifully finished headboard and end-of-bed bench. The bedside furniture is generous and has multi-format power outlets as well as uncomplicated light switches. It might not sound like a big deal, but these last two points are actually so refreshing.

The bathroom not only has a high-powered shower with overhead and angled heads, it also has a beautiful deep-fill bath that looks through the sliding doors to the views of the city. My only gripe about the bathroom is the strongly opaque door to the toilet. More and more hotels seem to think that the greater the opportunity to see your partner on the throne, the more romantic/luxurious/modern the room. This needs to be addressed; any proximity to another human emptying themselves is none of these things!

One little treasure we discover in the bathroom that seems to have gone the way of the dodo in hotels is the amenity kit. Occasionally these days you might get the odd cotton bud or a shower cap, but not in the Sofitel Darling Harbour. Harking back to the good old days, this has to be one of the most comprehensive kits we’ve seen. Toothbrushes, combs, nail files, cotton pads and buds, and even a shaving kit — I’m impressed.

The table and chair in the room are comfortable and well-sized, and the second ‘chair’ is in fact a chase longue that you can recline on and enjoy the views through the entire wall of windows.

There are lots of other little details like the lovely lamps, the fabric textured wardrobe doors and the quaint vignette of old photos on the wall that add to the room’s style.

Mind you, the carpet pattern keeps making me think there’s an electrical cable laying across the floor.

As I’ve mentioned, the views here are outstanding, but there’s another bonus to being on floor 29: we get access to the Millesime club level.

Club Millesime Level, Sofitel Darling Harbour

Right up on the 35th level, Club Millesime — meaning ‘great vintage’ in French — takes up the whole top floor of the Sofitel and offers some of the best views of Sydney.

As well as a full reception (with its own secret stash of Champagne btw!), where you can check in and out without using the ground level concierge at all, there’s a dedicated kitchen here that opens three times a day starting with breakfast.

From 6.30am to 10.30am (11.00am on weekends and public holidays), the complimentary breakfast at Club Millesime offers a wonderful spread of pastries, croissants, in-house jams, fresh-from-the-comb honey and breakfast cereals.

There’s also a full spread of hot buffet options. The bacon is excellent here — a yardstick I mark all hotel breakfasts with. At your table, you can also order a small selection of a la carte items like eggs Benedict and avocado on toast.

Le Gouter and Apero Chic at Club Millesime

In the same way the Italians have aperitivo, le gouter is a traditional snack time in France, replicated in Club Millesime between 2.30pm and 4.30pm.

Sit and enjoy tasty sweets, sandwiches and snacks, as well as complimentary hot and soft drinks, while you sit back and take in the view.

As the afternoon leans into evening, Club Millesime offers Apera Chic, a kind of opener before dinner between 5.30pm and 7.30pm.

There’s a wide selection of hot morsels available, including garlic prawns, and wagyu and cheese jalapeno spring rolls, you can build your own salad, grab a bit of cake or hit the cheese board. You can also order complimentary beers, wines, spirits and cocktails too.

It’s the perfect opportunity to relax and take in the sunset views over Sydney.

Other Bars And Facilities at Sofitel Darling Harbour

On Level 4 is the infinity pool and sun deck, open to all hotel guests. If you’re not in the mood for a swim, there’s still Le Rivage, the poolside bar (open Thurs-Sun 11am-6pm). And if you fancy something more active or pampering, the hotel gym is here too, right next door to the day spa.

On the ground floor just by reception is the lobby bar Esprit Noir, perfect for a quick drink before dinner and a great rendezvous point if you’re meeting up with friends.

Level 3 is home to the famed Champagne Bar, an elegant late-night venue with superfluous views, cocktails and French-style snacks, and a refined Champagne menu.

Here you can also have your bottle of Champagne ‘sabraged’ — a very cool way of opening the bottle with a swift strike of a sword. It’s a tradition that originated with Napoleon, a way of him celebrating victory in battle.

Perhaps most impressively, Sofitel Darling Harbour is home to one of the exclusive, elusive and very impressive Les Clef d’Or – the Golden Keys Concierge.

Recognisable by their golden crossed keys pin, these guys aren’t like regular concierge people, they’re like X-Men. They know everything that’s going on in the city, they can get you into sold-out shows, they know every bar, restaurant and hidden spot in the area, and they have fingers on every pulse beating.

We met a Golden Keys in Paris and his knowledge was incredible. You can read about it here.

Fine-dining at Sofitel Darling Habour — Atelier by Sofitel

The real crowning glory of Sofitel Darling Harbour, two-Hatted Atelier is an icon in French fine dining in Sydney.

On Level 3 and conveniently close to the Champagne Bar, Atelier sets the scene for a most romantic dinner, and the food and wine make it an occasion to remember. In fact, it feels more like the hotel was built around the restaurant than the other way around.

To get to the restaurant, you go past the kitchen and what seems to be a lot of empty seats, but this area is in fact where breakfast is served for hotel guests without access to the Club Millesime level.

It feels a bit strange going through such a big empty space, but once in the warm, salubrious inner sanctum of the restaurant proper, with its discrete bar and the city lights twinkling through the window, we settle in for a meal to remember.

The kitchen here has a few special tricks up its sleeve. There’s a cabinet specifically for dry ageing duck to superb effect. They also use a charcoal-fired Mibrasa oven for the steaks here, which acts as a combination grill and oven. This specialised Spanish oven sears, cooks and smokes all at the same time.

Needless to say: I’m excited.

In fact, you can read our full review of Atelier here!

Getting to Sofitel Darling Harbour

Being right next to the ICC and in the midst of one of Sydney’s major tourism drawcards means that Sofitel Darling Harbour is really well connected.

Of course, a taxi will bring you to the door, but there are public transport options too.

From Central or the city, the light rail is an easy option and drops you right outside the hotel.

Alternatively, you could walk in from the city across the historic Pyrmont Bridge — the world’s oldest surviving electronic swing bridge — and see Darling Harbour from all sides.

But the nicest way to get there is to catch an F4 ferry to Pyrmont Bay. From there you have the option of walking through Darling Harbour or go one stop on the light rail from Star Casino.

After all, a romantic stay in a hotel of this quality deserves an enjoyable journey to arrive by.

We stayed as media guests of Sofitel Darling Habour, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Where to Wake Up In Sydney — Sofitel Darling Harbour appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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I’ve often wondered why the Central Coast doesn’t hold bigger sway among domestic and international visitors. But with the first major hotel opening in the region for 15 years, I can finally rest easy and worry about something else!

Heralding what’s sure to be some major changes to the region’s profile, the voco Gosford by IHG opened its doors to guests in late 2025.

But it’s not just the 130 rooms across 11 storeys that spell this cultural epiphany for the Central Coast. It’s the rest of the building too.

The voco Gosford sits within the brand new Archibald Precinct, which brings six dining and hospitality options, including an elegant rooftop cocktail bar on the 28th floor with panoramic vistas across the landscape and over Brisbane Waters.

voco Gosford by IHG

As the winding Central Coast Highway twists us down to sea level, our attention moves from the sparkling waters of the bay to the impressive twin towers of the voco Gosford, its distinctive black and white sculpted walls standing taller than any other building in the area.

For now.

Evidence of major construction is poking up all over town, another sign that things here are changing.

The lobby

We’ve timed our drive north to Gosford poorly. We were hoping to pick up a pie from the legendary Shhmoakesy’s Gourmet Pies on the way in, but they run out by lunchtime. Instead, we see if our room’s ready for check-in. Two hours early.

The warmly lit and pleasantly scented lobby is also home to the welcoming Lobby Bar, which doubles up as a cafe during the day. At least we can spend an easy hour there if our room’s not ready.

But we’re in luck; the room’s ready and the friendly reception staff check us in and send us on our happy way. From the lobby, you can also take the stairs at the back to the main dining areas of the precinct. But that’s for later.

The room

Our room is up on the 11th floor, technically the top floor of the hotel. Above that, from 12 to 27, are high-end residential apartments.

The room is also right on the corner of the floor.

And it’s a king suite!

From the front door, a short passageway leads to the enormous bed with a chase and small dining table nearby. The bar fridge and tea caddy is in a cabinet that’s been made to look like a little drinks cart, which is fun.

The TV is tucked into another piece of custom furniture and is — like the bed — huge.

While I’m inspecting the TV and the curtains that cover the windows running the length of the wall, I notice chairs on the narrow balcony outside. I can’t see a door anywhere and jump to the conclusion that this must be a communal balcony. I’m initially outraged.

Then Christina finds the door.

Sliding behind the TV unit, the door opens to a full private balcony that wraps around the corner giving us wonderful views of the town below, the wooded hills and bushland around, and then all the way out to the bay and its coruscating waters.

As we peer down, we can also see the hotel’s rooftop pool and swim-up bar. This is down on the 5th floor — the top of the connecting building between the two towers.

The chairs I spotted — by the way — are ours.

Back in the room, we discover the bathroom behind a door we initially thought was one of those doors that connect to adjoining rooms. This is perhaps the best part of the room, with tactful lighting, a large vanity and luxurious amenities from Apotheke.

And then we see the giant, deep-fill bath tub and the striped tiling that mirrors the exterior walls of this hotel. The tiling continues into the roomy shower with its rippled glass art deco door that glides along on industrial style mechanism of polished brass.

The detail makes the difference

But it’s the details of the suite that give it that comfortable yet elegant edge.

It’s the brass finishes in the bathroom, it’s the (surprisingly satisfying) cyclonic directional flush of the WC, it’s the lush deep pile of the carpet, and best of all it’s the labels on the light switches and the USBs by the bed.

Too many times in too many hotels have we struggled to find the correct light switch, being left either blinded or broken-toed in the middle of the night. The multitude of illumination options here though are clearly signed, removing the guesswork.

If we had any negative points to make, they would be so minor: there are only two bath towels in the room (an easy fix) and the tap is a bit far from the sink, making it awkward to wash your hands and leaving a lot of drips on the vanity (an impossible fix).

Other than that, this room hits all the sweet spots.

The dining options

We’ve mentioned the Lobby Bar and the swim-up Pool Bar but that still leaves four other venues.

The pool bar, by the way, has complicated hours. On paper, its a 10am-8pm option, but in reality, staffing and weather can play a problematic part, so bear that in mind.

Behind the Pool Bar and on dry land, however, is Saltfire. This broad space is — for the moment — only open for breakfast, though this may change in the future. Breakfast is a buffet affair and one that offers the crispiest hash browns on earth. The bacon, though it might not look like it, is the tastiest I’ve had at a hotel buffet.

A big statement, but I’ll stand by it.

Downstairs on the ground floor is Archie’s. Once the Union Hotel, this is now set up to be ‘Gosford’s new local’, and it’s got everything you need for a good old pub and has a big, friendly family vibe.

It also operates as the bar for the two dining options here: Paolo’s Pizzeria and Ironbark.

We find our table at Ironbark and prowl through the menu, all the time glancing over at the dry-ageing cabinet stocked with huge slabs of beef. We’ve heard the tomahawk is excellent here.

The only problem is there are lots of other things catching our eye as we peruse the options. We even debate the pub classics for a while, but in the end settle on a couple of entrees and steaks.

In a way, I wish we’d gone for the burgers or parmies.

Sadly, the steak tartare didn’t really hit the spot for us. It was covered in a strange mayonnaise dressing and — rather than bread or crisps, the kitchen had taken pains to make their own potato sticks that didn’t stay crispy for long enough and weren’t the best vehicle for the tartare.

The steaks came out a bit under-done, which is usually fine by me, but the fat hadn’t rendered properly and the result was quite a sickly scotch fillet.

On the plus side, the portions are enormous. Both our steaks have us beat and we try to finish the side of broccolini, but fail there too. The wine list here also deserves a mention with plenty of NSW options, which we always enjoy seeing.

The glass of Robert Stein Shiraz — a Mudgee favourite of ours — goes down well with all the meat!

The nightcap

Our favourite part of the voco Gosford comes at the end of the night when we step out of the lift on level 28.

Astra, the hotel’s rooftop bar and restaurant, is lovely.

With views almost right around the area through windows that have been thrown open to allow the cool evening sea breeze in, Astra is part cocktail bar, part izakaya, offering excellently crafted drinks and carefully sculpted Japanese dishes in a refined, city-style setting.

We’re more than full from dinner, so we skip the menus and find a spot at the long bar. Andy behind the jump mixes us two superb martinis and we chat about the various virtues of gin for a while.

It’s the perfect end to the day and once back in our palatial room, we settle into the ecstatic comfort of our soft bed in deep contentment.

We stayed and dined as guests of voco Gosford by IHG and Archibald Precinct, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Going Voco Loco — a new luxe staycation in the Central Coast, NSW appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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My wife Susan and I have been planning to do the famed Three Capes Walk in Tasmania for a few years.

We finally organised ourselves to do 10 days down in Tasmania in mid-December. Some of the activities and tours here are seasonal and weather-dependent, so bear that in mind when booking.

The highlights from our trip are:

· The Three Capes Walk
· The Gordon River Cruise
· Kayaking on Dove Lake at Cradle Mountain

Click each heading to jump to that section.

Click here for our driving holiday guide through Tasmania.

Three Capes Walk

When we started planning this trip, the idea was to start in Hobart, do the Three Capes Walk and then end up in Launceston where we would depart.

We also decided to luxe the walk up and went with Life’s an Adventure’s Three Capes Pack-Free Walk.

We have been to Hobart a couple of times before, so this time we spend the first afternoon just exploring the piers and Salamanca, and doing a self-guided historical walk around Battery Point.

In the late afternoon, we head to Lucinda Wine Bar.  A cosy little bar where there isn’t really a menu; rather you just tell them the type of wine you like and they bring something to try. If you like it, you can have a glass. That worked for us.

The next morning — Day One of our hike — we’re up early and head to our rendezvous for the Three Capes Walk at a hotel foyer in Hobart where we meet the two guides and seven fellow adventurers. We travel by minibus across to Port Arthur, where we drop off our bags at the accommodation before heading off on our first walk.

This is a 15km walk that heads out to Cape Raoul before returning on the same path. The views along the way are quite spectacular, and after six hours of walking, with stops along the way, it has made for a big first day.

The two guides are fantastic, offering their knowledge, experience and encouragement along the way. When we get back to the accommodation, we enjoy a beer on the balcony of our lodge.

The second day of the walk is due to be an even bigger one — 19km from Waterfall Bay to Fortescue Bay. We trek through bush and rain forests to sea cliffs. Along the way, we see some echidnas as well as many native birds.

The guides again are invaluable and lead the way. After eight hours on the track, we get to Fortescue Bay, exhausted. Post-dinner, everyone is asleep early — or at least I am.

Our third day of walking is from Fortescue Bay towards Cape Hauy.

This walk will be about 12km and includes many steps along the way, both uphill and downhill. There are spectacular vistas along the cliffs and a view out over the unique rock formations of this rugged coastline. This is raw Tasmanian beauty at its best.

At the conclusion of the walk, we’re driven down to Doo Town and take the Wilderness Boat Trip where we set sail to enjoy the cliffs and bluffs from the water. We then pass by Cape Hauy and continue down towards the lighthouse on Tasman Island.

We are very fortunate to see a bait ball, a term I’ve never heard of, and which we learn is a massive grouping of albatross and other birds all circling a school of fish. In this bait ball there are numerous dolphins and seals, and to everyone’s delight a humpback whale, all enjoying a good feed.

The boat cruise is an excellent way to finish off three big days of walking along the Tasmanian coast to capes.

By the time we get down the coast to see Tasman Island in the Tasman Sea, the wind and swell have really picked up, with a drizzling rain coming in horizontally at speed. We now understand why they gave everyone these bright red waterproof jackets to wear.

On our fourth day, we drive across to Bruny Island where the weather has certainly turned chilly. Imagine it being the middle of summer, and we are in three layers and beanies.

It’s a real treat sampling fresh local oysters, cheese and chocolates on our way to the southernmost tip of Cape Bruny where we also check out the lighthouse — the second oldest in the country by the way.

It is blowing a gale, so we don’t stay too long.

On the way back to the ferry, we stop along the roadside when we come upon three old fridges. They are where the Bruny Baker sells his wood-fired bread fresh each day.

We’re surprised to find the sourdough bread is still warm, and we see that he delivers a couple of times a day as he makes them. We do like the honesty system where you pay for the bread you take with PayID or electronic fund transfer. We need some bread to go along with some of our Bruny Island cheese for dinner tonight. The bread, by the way, was excellent.

The Gordon River Cruise

We break up our five-hour drive to the west coast town of Strahan by stopping at Lawrenny Distillery for a tasting and purchases, then on to Derwent Bridge for lunch where we meet the most eccentric café owner in Queenstown – Pete, who owns Orangepete Café.

Pete was a builder by trade and struggled to get coffee for early starts or later in the day.  So much so that he started his own café on the main street, with orange being the dominate colour of decoration.

Strahan is a small town and we walk along the foreshore to head out on the half-day Gordon River Cruise. The weather is brilliant. It is amazing to learn how in the 1800s, they made the narrow entrance to the harbour — ‘Hell’s Gates’ — safer with the construction by convicts of rock walls in the water.

Heading up the river checking out the trees and wildlife is not as interesting for me, but everyone else on the cruise seems quite taken by it.

What I really am enjoying is the guided historic tour of Sarah Island. We learn that it was utilised before Port Arthur was established, and was for those convicts that committed second offences. How interesting that Sarah Island became the preeminent ship building yard in Australia due to excellent timber from the forest and cheap convict labour.

Kayaking at Dove Lake in Cradle Mountain

It is raining throughout our two-hour drive north from Strahan to Cradle Mountain, which doesn’t bode well for the afternoon walk we have planned. However, that afternoon, whilst bleak, it isn’t raining so we are able to do the Dove Lake trek around the shores. The next morning, we awake to brilliant sunshine and head off to do the Dove Lake Kayak adventure.

We discover that these kayaks are hand-built using Tasmanian King Billy pine. It is really cool to be paddling on the lake, and now and then stopping for a cup of tea whilst taking in Cradle Mountain and the surrounding landscape.

When we finally get ourselves to Launceston Airport with stops at a couple of wineries along the way. We have had an excellent 10-day trip away to Tasmania. It has certainly lived up to its reputation of being a wild and ruggedly beautiful place with plenty of history.

The post Into The Wild — exploring Tasmania’s rugged beauty by Mark Buckley appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Closer to Indonesia’s capital than its own nation’s, Perth is a really long way from anywhere. That said, this city and its surroundings have an incredible variety of things to see and do, which is just as well.

When a bunch of mates decide to head over for the ill-fated 2025 Ashes’ First Test, they find more free time in Perth than they bargain for.

From lively nightlife in the city to wine regions with bucolic cellar doors to elegant architecture and plenty of history, it turns out that Western Australia’s keystone town has more than enough to keep a crop of cricket-bereft blokes busy for the weekend.

Yes, I was part of that group of mates, and here’s what we got up to.

Click each heading below to jump to that day’s adventures. Don’t worry, you can always come back up here!

Day 1 – Ashes to Ashes
Day 2 – Dust to Dusty
Day 3 – Freo to Roam
Day 4 – Doubloons, Dumplings and Delays

From the biggest pub in Australia to the oldest running pub in WA, and what proves to be the shortest Ashes Test in 137 years, here’s what happens when a bunch of east coast lads head west.

It Begins

After months of planning, and even more time spent in talk and discussion, it’s finally time to board our plane to Perth.

For some of us (not me), this is our first time to Perth. For others (me), this will be our first Ashes test. But the brief is quite simple: let’s watch plenty of cricket and have a beer or two.

But what transpires is quite the opposite.

Five of us arrive in Perth at roughly the same time. Frenchie has some business to take care of (plus a flight delay), so the rest of us — me, Brett, Brownie, Dom and Nim — make our way to the nearest pub for drinks and dinner.

The Grosvenor Hotel is a cracker. Set on the corner of Hay Street and Hill Street, it’s been here since 1886 and is one of just three remaining Perth pubs from the 1880s.

It’s also closely associated with social gatherings for the Perth Football Club, which had its home at the WACA, so we’ve started strong with the sporting and cricket link.

After a couple of beers, most of us move to local wine: a delicious Vasse Felix Sem Sauv from Margaret River.

In spite of his frequent calls in days to come, Dom will be sad to learn that tonight’s meal will be his only chance to sample nachos from WA this trip. The good news is it’s a tasty iteration of Dom’s desire.

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Perth Day 1: Ashes to Ashes

After breakfast , the six of us troop through Gloucester Park and join the throngs of fellow cricket fans crossing the oxbow arc of the Swan River to the mighty 60,000-seater Perth Stadium.

Barely seven years old, this beautiful arena is packed to the brim with a sell-out crowd excited to see their country duel it out for cricket’s most venerated trophy.

England win the toss and choose to bat, and then things go badly wrong. Including four ducks (two golden), everyone’s out by 3pm and they’ve manage to scrape together 175 runs. The Aussies are all smiles, but by the end of the first day, they’ve lost nine wickets too.

It’s action-packed, but for all the wrong reasons.

We spend the morning sessions in our seats until the boiling disc of WA sunshine turns its Sauronic eye towards us. We duck for cover to the Camfield — the stadium’s onsite watering hole and reputedly the biggest pub in Australia.

We take advantage of the 175 beer taps until stumps on the first day with Australia still batting, but with only two wickets to spare and 49 runs to chase.

After a quick nap, shower and change at our hotel, we’re back in the mix for dinner and drinks.

We explore Perth’s city centre, which is so lively; the energy here is wonderful. After a while, we settle on Furaibo Izakaya and Bar, a busy modern Japanese restaurant in Murray Street Mall, and delve into an assortment of tasty dishes.

We wander around the city for a while until we find ourselves at the State Buildings. Once a hub for Perth politics and governance, this grand old heritage building is now a centre for high-end retail, hotels, bars and restaurants.

We tuck ourselves away in Beer Corner, a boutique watering hole serving craft beers from around WA. Brett, the beer monster among us, is in his element with the 20 taps clamouring for his attention.

We all settle on a beer. Apart from Dom, who insists on a tasting paddle of tiny beer pots, putting us all to shame with our single big glasses.

Looking further into the State Buildings complex, we discover a lovely little wine bar — the Wine Merchant — for a night cap.

Part of the highly-regarded Petition Restaurant, this nook of a bar sells takeaway wine, but also wine by the glass. You can also buy a bottle, sit down here and drink it. I wish there were more places like this.

We find a table big enough for six and set Brownie — our wine aficionado — to the task of picking something wonderful to drink.

He does such a good job, we end up in a little vertical tasting; the same bottle separated by 23 vintages! The 2001 is by far the superior.

Before we leave, Brownie and Frenchie squeeze our host for some recommendations of bars in the area. This will come in handy tomorrow!

I love a local tip, so here’s what’s on his list:

Bar Lafayette, Bobeche, Brookfield Place, Terrarium, Foxtrot Unicorn and Varnish on King.

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Perth Day 2: Dust to Dusty

Today, we don’t have tickets for the cricket as we bargained on a ‘normal’ test and thought Day 3 would be the better option.

I have put together a mini itinerary to go and check out Perth’s Swan Valley Wine Region, the second oldest in Australia after the Hunter Valley and only half an hour out of the city.

We kick off with a tasty breakfast at one of Frenchie’s finds: Double A On the River, a cafe right on the banks of the Swan. Then the six of us somehow squeeze into a single Uber and head for Lancaster Wines on the outer reaches of the Swan Valley.

We’re one of the first to arrive at this open-air cellar door among the vines, but the place fills up fast with tour groups.

Lancaster has vines that were planted in 1829, some of the oldest in the region, and the wine reflects that. Their Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Old Vine Shiraz are excellent, but their fortified Sticky Shiraz is unique and delicious.

Next, we head to Sandalford Wines. This is the Swan Valley’s most established and commercial winery. Its long, sweeping tasting bar fills one side of the room while the other is a boutique displaying beautifully curated oddments, art, stemware, and merch.

We work our way through the tasting, relishing the Chenin Blanc, Rosé and botrytis Semillon.

Brett is on a charm offensive — our next stop is through a potentially locked gate at the back of the venue to Mandoon Estate and Homestead Brewery. It’s either that or a very long walk round.

Thankfully, Brett’s fluttering lashes do the trick and the kind lady tips us off as to the gate’s whereabouts.

Mandoon Estate and its connected microbrewery is a busy family-focused spot with big tables spread across a wide rolling lawn. Pizzas next to the beer bar are the way forward and we give the beer tasting paddles a nudge too before heading into the winery’s neat cellar door and tasting room.

Once again, Chenin Blancs, Chardonnays, Shiraz and a very respectable reserve Cabernet are the order of the day, as well as happy, friendly service.

We retire to a table in the expansive restaurant bar beyond the cellar door with perfect views of the TV and the cricket, which is turning into a repeat of Day 1.

Soon, it’s time to move again and we shoehorn ourselves into another maxi-taxi for a quick trip to the quaint little town of Guildford and to Western Australia’s oldest operating pub, the Rose and Crown Hotel.

This beautiful old pub has a history that goes back to 1841, and its redbrick walls, buzzing courtyard beer garden and even a dining room in the cellar echo with history.

We score a sofa and armchairs right in front of the big TV in the old part of the pub and watch the craziest Ashes test we’ve ever seen.

With both teams batting like they need to be somewhere, it’s all over before the end of Day Two, with Australia winning by eight wickets. It’s the shortest Ashes test in 137 years.

Back in the city, we get changed for our dinner booking at Sentinel Bar and Grill. This New York bistro style eatery has plenty of options on the menu, and we pick a few things to share.

The baked halloumi with roasted pear, hot honey and walnut is tasty and the two pasta dishes we order are great, but the on-the-bone ribeye, which we had high hopes for, doesn’t really hit the mark.

Standout though, is the steak tartare with quail egg yolk and aioli.

From the barman’s notes the night before, we hunt down Foxtrot Unicorn for a cocktail or two.

Known for being Perth’s most awarded cocktail bar, this atmospheric subterranean speakeasy is in an old bank vault built in 1887. With its timber-clad walls, eclectic up-cycled decor and low, dark ceilings, this is my kind of bar.

After a couple of cocktails, most of the guys head back to the hotel, but Nim and I stick around for a drink or two more. A drink or two? Who am I kidding? We stay until the lights go up!

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Freo to Roam

We’re all pretty slow to wake this morning. With the test over, our Day 3 tickets are useless, so Frenchie finds a great little cafe called Cravings for breakfast where we plot our trajectory.

Our plans eventually settle on Fremantle.

Leaning an elbow out into the Indian Ocean, Fremantle and its vibrant bar scene is also Perth’s historic centre.

There’s plenty for us to see and do here, though our first port of call — after a brisk march through Fremantle Markets — is the Norfolk Hotel. This big busy corner pub has barely opened, but we find our way in and stick around for a couple of hours.

From there, we explore the busy streets lined with elegant colonial architecture that houses Fremantle’s thriving retail and hospitality scenes. We find our way to the coast and the historic Whaler’s Tunnel, built by the whaling fleet to make transferring their hauls into the markets easier.

Here, we also find the Round House, a 19th Century prison and the first permanent building of the Swan Valley Colony.

But that’s not why we’re in this part of town.

This is a shortcut to Gage Roads Brewery (how predictable of us!) where we score a rare table on the wharf looking out over the water while we work through some tasting paddles.

Making our way back into the heart of Freo, we nab another coveted table at the rooftop bar of the National Hotel. This grand old beauty caught our eye as we were wandering the streets earlier, and from four storeys above, this charming hotel gives up perfect views of the town.

After a few, we clamber back down to earth in more ways than one; Brett insists on us having a quick beer in the Buffalo Club.

There were once many Buffalo Clubs all over the world, which were started in the 1820s as the Antediluvian Order of Buffaloes. In fact, Christina’s grandmother was once a member of the Darwin chapter.

These days, only a few remain and ‘The Buff’ in Freo has definitely seen better days. But the beer’s cold (and quite cheap) and the service and locals couldn’t be more welcoming.

Our final stop as evening draws in is a little door down a side street that everyone in the group is claiming they saw first.

This swashbuckling bar is Darling Darling and the resounding favourite of the weekend.

As our eyes adjust to our gloomy surroundings, we realise just how unique this little place is. Walls are strung with old ropes and naval knots, broad-bottomed candles have glued themselves to tables and low-slung candelabras, and there’s a crunch underfoot from empty monkey nut shells.

Ensconced at a little table against a timber-clad wall, we entertain ourselves by throwing shells at each other — this is Frenchie and Nim’s favourite part of the whole day — while we await cocktails from the lone barman. If any of us knew a sea shanty, this would be the place for it.

It’s not until someone — probably Dom — announces they’re hungry that we dislodge ourselves and head to Cicerello’s to see if their claim of ‘the home of fish n chips’ is valid.

The food’s not bad, but it makes me wonder what the self-proclaimed title really means. It’s a chippy that’s been going for over 100 years, so they must be doing something right.

But we hurry back to Darling Darling and stay for a while longer, filling up the corners with more free peanuts and artfully made seafaring cocktails.

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Day 4 – Doubloons, Dumplings and Delays

It’s time to leave Perth for our respective homes. But before we go, there’s still time for a bit more adventure.

Brett has been jonesing for a trip the Perth Mint since we got here, so we check out and find coffee (and very tasty homemade empanadas that Nim and I indulge in) from The Sansrival Cafe, right across from the mint.

We’re the first group of the day at the mint and our guide is clearly a morning person. She’s brilliant and funny, deadpan and well trained.

She takes us round the mint, shows us the one tonne solid gold dollar coin and then pours molten gold into an ingot. We also learn about the 1890s gold rush in WA, and that people still buy gold here; Nim overhears someone buying a kilo of it. That’s over $200,000 at current values.

After the tour, Dom leaves us for the airport and the rest of us are a little peckish. Someone has the brilliant idea of yum cha, and we hunt down Six Fortune Northbridge Chinese Restaurant (and Canton Roe next door) for a host of dumpling goodies and a lazy susan.

Bellies full, we waddle out of the restaurant and make our way slowly to the hotel for our left luggage.

Our number dwindles to four as Brownie heads to his private jet. We’re left bunkered down amongst the FIFOs as we watch our flight suffer delay after delay.

Fortunately, the bar’s open in the terminal though. Brett and I stick to beers, but Nim and Frenchie hit the vino. Hopefully we’ll all sleep well on the flight — if it ever gets here.

Hours later — just before midnight — I step through the door to find Christina on the sofa, asleep. She’s tried to wait up for me; a herculean effort and one I barely manage myself. It’s been an excellent trip away, but as always, it’s good to be home.

The post How to eat, drink and be merry (but not watch cricket) in Perth, WA appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Cupitt’s Estate is a small but highly-acclaimed family-run winery and brewery in the South Coast of NSW, not far from the rocky shores and sensational beaches of Ulladulla and Mollymook, a few hours’ drive from Sydney.

We first came here on a tip-off from a friend when we stayed at Bannisters years ago. Although a few things have changed — the deck at the back of the cellar door is much bigger and the car park has grown too — the wine, beer and warmest of welcomes are just the same.

Perhaps the biggest difference is the accommodation that’s on offer here now.

Check out our video of Cupitt’s Estate’s accommodation, experiences and dining:

Where to stay at Cupitt’s Estate

Looking out over the estate’s 75 hectares, the Cupitts have built ten beautifully appointed villas. These villas feel more like high-end hotel suites, just without the impersonal corridors and lobby.

Each one is separated from its neighbours and angled in such a way that makes them completely private.

As with a suite, there’s a lounge and dining area, as well as a kitchenette. But what sets these villas apart is the deep-fill bath tub outside on the balcony.

At night, you can enjoy the conflagration of stars overhead from your soak, and in the daytime — if you’re lucky — the estate’s cows will be grazing in the paddock next door.

Our villa comes with a breakfast hamper replete with crusty sourdough, fresh fruit and muesli, and in the fridge is yoghurt and milk.

Instead of the usual coffee pod machine, the Cupitts have supplied clever fold-out coffee bags that sit in your cup and brew.

It’s details like this that shows just how much thought has gone into these villas.

For more of our stories on the South Coast, hotel reviews, restaurants, things to do, click here.

Click here to find great deals on other accommodation around the South Coast.

Down the corridor is the bedroom. Its enormous bed is so comfy, and the soft furnishings and artworks add to that homely yet stylish touch here.

The bathroom’s on the small side, but it has everything you need, including a rainfall shower and high-quality Australian-made bathroom amenities from Leif.

The kitchenette and minibar are well stocked — of course with Cupitt’s wines — but also with premixed cocktails from the winery’s bar. There are even oversized ice cubes in the freezer, a cocktail mixing set and heavy tumblers to give that cocktail bar feel to your drink.

There’s also a basket of goodies in the kitchenette. In particular chocolates from nearby Woodstock are worth a nibble. Staff at the winery also recommend going to the shop in Woodstock to try the chocolate at the source.

Cupitt’s Estate Cellar Door

Beyond the villas, the winery has a beautiful outlook, just perfect for a delicious glass of wine or craft beer, both made right here. The winery has a few small vineyards, but a lot of the wine they make is with grapes from other parts of NSW.

The beer, however, is all made on-site and is as good a reason as the wine to come and visit Cupitt’s.

Wine tastings usually happen at the cellar door in this historic building from 1851. The building was once the creamery of the dairy that stood here.

The family used to make their own cheese, continuing the tradition of the property. It’s a shame they don’t do that anymore, as the cheese was excellent, but it’s a lot of extra work.

While you’re here, don’t forget to sign up to the wine club for discounts on lots of things including wine, beer, dining and accommodation. And first dibs on wine deliveries of course.

Otherwise, you can sign up to the Cupitt’s Wine Club here before you visit.

But we’re having our wine tasting down in the barrel room.

As part of the Tour & Taste experience, we’re tasting wine that’s spent plenty of time in this room already.

When the Cupitts built the winery in 2001, they had the forethought to not only create a beautiful space to grow, make and enjoy wine, but also an underground cellar to store it.

Under the winery itself, more like something you’d find in Europe than on the NSW South Coast, the subterranean barrel cellar is a very special place.

There’s something so magical about drinking wine in a room like this, surrounded by barrels, deep underground.

Dining Options at Cupitt’s Estate

Back top side, we’re ready for dinner. On the deck and in the wine garden, you can enjoy casual dining with pizzas and a range of other tasty plates.

For a more formal meal experience, Cupitt’s has an excellent restaurant with views out over the countryside.

Check out Christina’s stunning food photography!

We start with some fresh oysters with a mignonette, then move through the gears with scallops sautéed in green garlic butter and roasted figs with capocollo and whipped ricotta.

Next to us the sun sets, sparkling off Stony Creek in the distance as it runs into the sea.

For mains, we go for pork rack and grilled rapini, and beautifully tender blistered octopus with charred cavolo nero and a romesco sauce. And a bowl of fries of course.

We share a dessert of caramelised figs, salted hazelnuts and dark chocolate ganache before wandering back to our villa for a blissful night’s sleep.

We were hosted as media guests at Cupitt’s Estate, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Where to Stay on the NSW South Coast — Cupitt’s Estate, Ulladulla appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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More than twice the size of Yellowstone National Park in the USA, Kakadu is truly enormous. It’s home to around a third of Australia’s bird species and over 10,000 saltwater crocodiles (yup, the bitey ones).

It’s also where the longest living culture still exists after 65,000 years and the incredible rock art and history that goes with it still going strong.

Kakadu is a place of abundance and intrigue, of extremes and superlatives, and it’s one of the most fascinating places you could ever hope to visit.

Here are our top tips for where to stay, where to go and what to do in this unique landscape.

Essential Guide to Kakadu National Park

Clicking on each chapter will jump straight to that section.

• How to get to Kakadu
• Where to stay in Kakadu
• Where to eat in Kakadu
• Things to do in Kakadu – this is the long one!

— The best rock art sites

— Culture hubs – Kakadu visitor centres

— Getting back to nature – seeing Kakadu’s wildlife

• What’s the best time of year to visit Kakadu?
• Let’s sum it all up for you

How to Get to Kakadu

Kakadu is right at the Top End, a few hours’ drive east from Darwin. The best way to get to Darwin — of course — is to fly.

From Sydney, it’s a 4-hour 20-minute flight, and all the other east-coast Aussie state capitals are about the same .Adelaide and Perth are around 3h35m, and Hobart is a sickly seven-odd hours with a stop along the way.

Other options are to sail in. Darwin Harbour is lovely and has regular cruises and other ships pull in. We docked at Darwin years ago after a National Geographic voyage around the Kimberley Coast.

The other option is driving to Darwin. Driving the Top End is an awesome experience and highly recommended if you have the time.

Either way, once in Darwin, you will need a car to get to Kakadu. You can find great prices on car rentals from Darwin Airport here. We recommend a 4WD capable car.

If you don’t want to drive yourself, there are lots of tours going from Darwin to Kakadu that are excellent too. This one goes from Darwin City right into the park, to infamous Cahill’s Crossing to see huge estuarine crocodiles, then to Ubirr for the most astounding rock art and back to Darwin in a day!

Where to Stay in Kakadu

There aren’t many places to stay in Kakadu. In fact, unless you want to camp, you’re limited to just a couple of hotels.

The Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel in the little town of Jabiru is wonderfully kitsch and comfortable. Built in the shape of a massive crocodile, the Croc has been renovated from its previous motel status.

You can find our full review of this interesting hotel here.

The other option is Cooinda Lodge, which has a range of accommodation, from a campsite and hardstandings for motorhomes to motel-style rooms to full-blown luxury safari lodge style cabins.

We stayed in the cabins — the Yellow Water Villas — and it was wonderful. Here’s our review.

Where to Eat in Kakadu

Apart from snacks at some of the visitor centres and a pretty expensive supermarket in Jabiru, you’re limited to the restaurants at the hotels.

Fortunately, these restaurants are excellent.

Manjmukmuk Restaurant in the Croc Hotel has an affordable buffet option and also a lovely a la carte full-service section that offers some really quite impressive dishes. Our review is here.

Mimi’s at Cooinda is excellent and the chef — Phillip Foote — creates special menus that showcase local bush ingredients that are seasonally available.

Also at Cooinda Lodge is the Barra Bar, serving pub style classics, and a fish and chip van that is actually superb.

Check out our write-up of all the food options in Cooinda here.

Things to Do in Kakadu

Ancient Galleries — Kakadu’s Rock Art Sites

There are plenty of sites around Kakadu where you can find some of the best examples of Indigenous rock art in Australia.

Ubirr

One of the largest collections of ancient rock painting is at Ubirr, where there are paths leading throughout this significant gallery. There’s even evidence here of thylacines — Tasmanian Tigers — through the art.

High up on what would once have been the rocky floor of the site is a painting of the now-extinct carnivorous marsupial. There are also depictions of megafauna — gigantic kangaroos and wombats the size of cars.

This all illustrates not only that humans were around when these ancestors of dinosaurs walked the earth, but also just how old these artworks are.

There’s plenty of parking right at the Ubirr site, and watching the sunset here is also very popular.

Nourlangie

At the base of a magnificent limestone outcrop of the escarpment, Nourlangie Rock, thousands of paintings tell the millennia of history of the Bininj and Mungguy culture.

You can also see where artists and elders of the current generation have come to update and maintain the gallery that has been here for so many thousands of years.

We were lucky to have brilliant young local guide James Morgan show us around Nourlangie and tell us some of the stories around the art.

Between late May and late September, you can book a local guide to take you round different cultural places like Ubirr and Nourlangie for free! Keep an eye on the Kakadu Tourism site for details.

Culture Hubs – Kakadu’s Visitor Centres

Kakadu has some truly excellent visitor centres that not only offer information on places to go and things to do, but also insights into the park’s culture and history.

Bowali Visitor Centre

This centre is the best visitor centre for speaking to a guide about where to go in the park and what to see.

There’s also an excellent display on the plants, animals and landscapes you’ll experience in Kakadu.

Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre

Through the doors of this impressive centre, you’ll find a winding path that takes you around a clever exhibit on the cultural history and network of the local peoples of the region.

You’ll find examples of tools, messaging systems and artworks of the area, as well as real-life stories from people growing up in Kakadu and a simplified explanation of the complex kinship rules governing marriage and families here.

Marrawuddi Art Gallery

This gallery has an impressive collection of artworks of a range of media by Kakadu artists and from the wider region you can buy. It also sells a range of bags, clothing and souvenirs.

Just as important, Marrawuddi Art Gallery makes the best takeaway coffee in the park. We highly recommend enjoying your well-made flat white as you wander around the racks of art in the lovely air conditioning!

Getting Back to Nature — Kakadu’s Wild Side

Kakadu Bird Week with Luke Paterson from NT Bird Specialists

One of the highlights of Kakadu’s tourist calendar is Kakadu Bird Week, which runs at the end of September. It champions not only the enormous depth and wealth of birdlife in Kakadu, which is home to over a third of all Australia’s bird species, it’s also timed with one of nature’s great spectacles.

This time of year, when the dry season is at its end, the waterways are at their lowest. This concentrates the waterbirds’ habitat. It also coincides with the flocking of thousands upon thousands of magpie geese.

You can see this for yourself quite easily by making your way to any of the large billabongs of the park.

But if you want to do it properly (and actually understand what you’re looking at), booking a tour with NT Bird Specialists is a must. Luke ‘Hawkeye’ Paterson is one of Australia’s if not the world’s great ornithologists. And his moniker is not unfounded.

The couple of morning hours we spend with Luke, we spotted 64 different bird species and learnt about a lot more. You can read our full review of our time birding with Luke in Kakadu here.

Cahill’s Crossing — the most dangerous road in the world

On the eastern edge of Kakadu, where the park ends and Arnhem Land begins, runs the East Alligator River. It’s a poor name for the waterway as there are no alligators in it at all. No, instead you’ll find hundreds of enormous saltwater crocodiles.

The road to Arnhem Land fords this river, and in the dry season, the water’s low enough to drive across. I wouldn’t recommend it — you also need the appropriate permits to cross the river — but the viewing platform on the western bank gives you the perfect (and safely elevated) perspective on the hunting crocs.

Check out our review on Cahill’s Crossing here, as well as our viral video on this dangerous roadway.

Ngurrungurrudjba — Yellow Water Sunset Cruise

Easily the most beautiful and nature-filled activity in Kakadu, the Yellow Water Cruise is special. From Cooinda Lodge (you can book your cruise here), a bus transfers you to the little jetty where everyone boards small, flat-bottom launches that allow access to shallow waters.

You cruise along this magnificent stretch of water, spotting everything from jacana birds and water buffalo to brolgas and massive saltwater crocs. There are so many of these modern dinosaurs in Yellow Water, you almost become complacent with them.

Why is it called Yellow Water you may ask. The name (no, it’s not because of that) becomes apparent as the sun sets and lights the surface of this billabong a dazzling gold colour that turns to bronze and red as the sun gets lower.

Check out our review and video of this spectacular experience here.

Maguk Waterfall

One of the few waterfalls that runs all year round in Kakadu, Maguk and its sparkling plunge pool are tucked away into the stony cliffs of the escarpment.

To get to the waterfall, you’re looking at unsealed roads and a bush walk that’s challenging at times as it follows the rocky riverside of Barramundi Gorge.

The hot hike is worth it though. You emerge from the steaming rainforest to the idyllic sight of the falls and its pool that have carved themselves into the sandstone over the millennia. It’s safe to swim here in the dry season, and the cool water is the perfect salve to the sweltering heat.

Check out our write-up and video on Maguk here.

Angabang Billabong

On the drive to Nourlangie and its amazing rock art galleries, Angabang Billabong is a small wetlands that’s worth a quick stop to see.

The shallow water spreads glittering across the plain and attracts a host of birdlife. At its back, the sculpted near horizon of Nawurlandja looms, creating an atmospheric vista.

Nawurlandja at sunset

The steady incline of Nawurlandja takes you to a vast viewpoint that has Angabang Billabong at its feet, the stern bluff of Nourlangie behind and the ranging escarpment filling in the background.

Nawurlandja — like Nourlangie — has some excellent rock art, but as the sun hits the western limits, it’s this vista you come for. Turning the sky a boiling red and the rocks around gold and crimson, sunset at Nawurlandja is startlingly beautiful.

Also, as this part of the park closes at nightfall, you’ll find a Bininj park ranger monitoring visitors. They’re happy to answer questions about the area and often have excellent tips for your time here.

Mirray Lookout

About halfway between Cooinda and Jabiru, Mirray Lookout is a reasonably tough 1,000m uphill scramble up loose rocks and red dirt to a lofty timber viewing platform.

The platform’s roof and the breeze at this elevation is lovely, and once you’ve cooled down, you can take in the views.

From here, the sea of trees seems to go on forever, hiding wetlands, rivers and its abundance of wildlife from view.

The trees are punctuated by ridges of the Arnhem Land escarpment — Stone Country to the Bininj and Mungguy. It’s here that evidence exists of humans’ longest continuing culture in the world.

What’s the Best Time of Year to Visit Kakadu

We’ve had the fortune to visit Kakadu a number of times — in the Wet Season in March and April, at the end of the Dry in September and on the brink of summer in December, the surreal super-humid moment when the Dry has finished but the storms of the Wet haven’t yet come.

Dry Season — May-October

It’s easy to see why the Dry Season is popular for tourists. The humidity is low, the flies aren’t too bad and a lot of the waterways are navigable. In fact the low water levels often mean that wildlife is more concentrated.

However, it is the busy season for the park.

Wet Season — November-April

Also known as the Green Season or the Tropical Summer, the Wet is exactly as it sounds. The rains are heavy and regular, and the temperatures and humidity are high. Some of the attractions will be unreachable or dangerous with water inundation and the crocodiles expanding their territories.

However, the abundance of life in the park is amazing at this time of year. Everything is green and lush, and the swollen rivers and billabongs add that extra bit of drama to everything. Scenic flights at this time of year reveal the true wealth of nature of Kakadu.

It’s also much quieter in the Wet Season, which means you pretty much have the run of the place.

A Quick Summary

Getting there

Direct flights from all Aussie capitals (apart from Hobart) to Darwin, then hire a car from Darwin to drive about 3.5 hours to Kakadu.

Where to stay

The Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel in Jabiru is a quirky motel-style hotel in the shape of a crocodile.

Cooinda Lodge has everything from a camping ground to motel style cabins to high-end luxury glamping retreats that are amazing.

Where to eat

Manjmukmuk Restaurant in the Croc Hotel is good. Mimi’s at Cooinda is excellent. Also at Cooinda Lodge is the Barra Bar, serving pub style classics, and a fish and chip van that is actually superb.

Marrawuddi Art Gallery has the best coffee in the area.

Things to do

Must-dos are Ubirr and Nourlangie for the best rock art, Cahill’s Crossing for crocodiles and the Yellow Water cruise at sunset for the scenery.

If Maguk is open, then it’s worth the hike.

Experience the profound birdlife in Kakadu. You can do this on your own, but booking a tour with people like NT Bird Specialists puts it in a whole other league.

What’s the best time of year to visit?

The Dry Season (May-October) is the most popular because the park is so much easier to get around, but it is a lot busier. The Wet (November-April) is the most dramatic, though humidity is tough.

The thing to remember with Kakadu is it’s beautiful and utterly unforgettable all year round.

The post Essential Guide to Kakadu National Park, Australia appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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We’ve been lucky enough to visit Uluru more than once in our lives. For me, this is my third time in fact. Coming back here — to see this amazing place and to walk in the shadow of the world’s largest monolith — never loses its magic.

Not only is it iconic as Australia’s heart stone, Uluru also represents a vital part of the Anangu’s creation story.

And you can feel the energy of this place seeping up into you from the ground.

However, in the past, we’ve only ever camped here in the Red Centre. And while setting up your swag in the middle of the desert with the brilliant constellations of the galaxy shining down on you may sound romantic, air conditioning, an ensuite and pillow tops trump the hand.

Check out our video walkthrough of Sails in the Desert here:

– Here are our other stories from Uluru and the things you can do in the Red Centre.

– For tours and activities to enjoy while you’re in the Uluru Kata Tju?a National Park, click here.

– And for the best deals on stays near Uluru, click here.

Where is the Sails in the Desert Hotel?

Not far from Uluru is the little township of Yulara. Most of the town is made up of the Voyages Ayres Rock Resort* and its numerous hotels, of which Sails in the Desert is the biggest.

There are a couple of shops here too and an excellent gallery where you can buy art by local artists.

Yulara is only about 10km from the base of Uluru as the crow flies and it’s a 15-20min drive from Sails in the Desert to the car park at the Rock.

But thanks to the flatness of the desert and the impressive 350m height of Uluru, you can easily see it from town — from certain points of Sails in the Desert in fact. You can also clearly see Kata Tju?a to the west.

* The Indigenous people here — Anangu — were asked if the name should change to Uluru Resort, but they said no as the resort is nothing to do with their culture. The same goes for Ayres Rock Airport.

What’s it like at Sails in the Desert?

Sails in the Desert is an oasis in this tough remote red landscape. Its lagoon pool, surrounded by tall eucalyptus trees and lush gardens, belies the harshness of its environment.

Peering through the foliage is the two-storey terraces of the hotel’s accommodation. Ground-level rooms have private courtyards while first floor ones have balconies.

Our first floor Superior Room is comfortable, with a well-appointed bathroom sporting Wiru amenities, an Indigenous owned and run cosmetics company that uses native bush botanicals like wattle seed and quandong.

Superior Rooms come with two queen beds or one king — ours has two queens, which is a bit confusing initially, but it does show just how big this room is. The balcony is quite small, though there’s enough space for a couple of chairs and a table. Mind you, it’s usually too hot to spend too long out here in the day!

There are some lovely touches to the room. Lighting is well considered and there’s a large piece of original Indigenous artwork, sourced from the Maruku Arts Market Place and the Gallery of Central Australia down the road.

Where to eat at Sails in the Desert

There are a number of places to dine here. You’ll find the Pira Pool Bar and the Walpa Lobby Bar inside Sails, as well as the dining area for breakfast each morning.

But as you’re staying in part of the Ayres Rock Resort, the other venues of the resort are open to you too.

Casual dining like Ayres Wok Noodle Bar and Kulata Academy Cafe all the way up to Ilkari Restaurant and the Mangata Bistro and Bar are available to you. And that’s just the beginning!

Things to do nearby that Sails in the Desert can help with

The best part of staying with the Voyages Ayres Rock Resort is that these guys are involved with the very best things to do around Uluru.

Voyages communicates very closely with the elders of the Anangu and have made sure these attractions are in everyone’s best interests. Not only are they fascinating things to do, they also benefit Anangu and the local community.

Guided sunrise walks around Uluru are a must. Each walk is lead by an Anangu elder and the stories they can tell bring so many more layers of meaning to brilliance to this magical place.

Beyond that, Wintjiri Wiru, the biggest permanent drone show, tells part of the origin story for Anangu and is absolutely breath-taking. I think I swore almost the whole way through!

You can see our full story and video about Wintjiri Wiru here.

For the ultimate dining experience, Tali Wiru takes you up into the dunes of the desert for the single-most unique meal you’ll ever have. As the sun sets and lights up Uluru on the horizon, you’re treated to a superlative set of dishes using fine-dining techniques on bush tucker with matching wines.

Check out our full write-up on Tali Wiru here.

Staying at Sails in the Desert is a great option for accommodation near Uluru, but your hotel room here really is just the beginning of a much bigger experience.

We stayed as media guests of Voyages and Ayres Rock Resort, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Where to Stay Near Uluru — Sails in the Desert appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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There are a few indelible rules to travel writing. One, of course, is never turn down a lounge pass. Another is that you never call a place ‘breath-taking’.

That is unless you visit Maguk Waterfall in Kakadu National Park.

The moment you emerge from the steaming forest to see the sparkling plunge pool in the rugged hug of the ruddy sandstone cliffs and the spectacle of the cascading waterfall, nothing but that much-maligned cliche will do.

Check out our video of Maguk to see exactly what I mean:

– Here’s a link to our Kakadu library. for more of our stories on this amazing national park.

– We stayed at Cooinda Lodge, the closest accommodation to Maguk. You can find the best deals on Cooinda Lodge here.

– And to book amazing activities and tours in Kakadu, click here.

Maguk Waterfall, Kakadu National Park

We leave our beautiful safari-style Yellow Water Retreat at Cooinda Lodge as the sun peeps above the horizon.

It’s an important trick to travelling in the Northern Territory: get as much done as you can before it gets too hot.

The drive to our turn-off takes just 35 minutes. The road is well-maintained and there’s no traffic this time of day. After that, things take a little longer.

From the turn-off, it’s 10km of unsealed road, which is easy-going for the most part, but there are sections that a two-wheel-drive car might struggle.

The Walk To Maguk

Part of the adventure of this place is the hike to get there. It’s only a 1km walk to the waterfall, but there are parts that are quite rugged where you need to clamber over rocks and tread carefully down to the bottom of the gorge.

And as the heat of the day builds, the call of the waterfall and a swim in its pool gets ever louder.

The path takes you through dramatic monsoon forests of peeling paperbark trees, broad sprawling palms and gigantic anbinik trees, which are only found here in Kakadu and in Arnhem Land.

The hike also runs along a dark stream that a local Bininj guide warned us about.

“We don’t swim in black water,” he told us, and when we see this creek, we understand his point.

The water creeps along slowly, its dark depths unknowable. But if there was ever a spot for a crocodile to hide in wait, it’s here. We stay well clear of the bank.

We carry on to the stony shoals of Barramundi Gorge and its shallow river. Here, we spot all kinds of wildlife like diving birds and bitterns, butterflies and tiny frogs.

We even spy barramundi in some of the deeper pools along the way. In the dry season, this part of the river is safe to walk along, cross and even swim in if you feel the need. Crocodiles can’t travel this far over the rocky terrain.

This is also why Maguk Waterfall and its plunge pool is safe to swim in.

During the wet season, however, roads become impassable, the waterways full of salties and the gentle waterfall a torrent.

Maguk Waterfall

We finally arrive at Maguk. There are already a couple of other visitors here, but that doesn’t take anything alway from the beauty.

Surrounding the pool are high cliffs of the escarpment—part of the plateau that runs for 500km from Nitmiluk (once called Katherine Gorge), through Kakadu to its coast and up to the Coburg Peninsula and Arnhem Land.

The cliffs create a ‘hidden paradise’ feel to the pool and it’s easy to understand why it’s sacred to the Bininj and Mungguy. And although they do not swim here, they allow visitors to do so, respectfully of course.

The cool water washes the dust and heat from our bodies and the sing of the waterfall clears our minds. It’s hard to leave this special place.

Back in the car, we drive the unsealed road until we come to a set of cathedral termite mounds that we spotted on the way in.

These enormous structures are always so impressive, and well worth a photo.

The drive back to Cooinda is relaxing, and we’re quiet as we reflect on what a magical place Maguk is.

We travelled to Kakadu National Park as media guests of Kakadu Tourism and Tourism NT, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Things To Do In Kakadu—Maguk Waterfall and Plunge Pool appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Crown of the Top End, Kakadu National Park is a wonderland of spectacular landscapes, ancient culture and natural history. But at the centre of this national park lies the jewel in that crown.

Yellow Water—Ngurrungurrudjba in the Bininj language—is a tributary billabong of the South Alligator River.

Check out our video of this incredible waterway at sunset:

This broad waterway, contained in the dry season by sloping banks, leaning pandanus and towering speargrass, is a wildlife paradise.

From the huge saltwater crocodiles that slip silently through the shimmer of the still water to the tiny azure kingfishers poised on overhanging branches, there’s so much life here it’s almost too much to take in.

Beyond the glittering surface of Yellow Water, flood plains that stretch out to distant trees and escarpments offer hunting grounds to wading birds and water buffalo. Black necked storks (formerly jabiru) and brolgas, ibis and egrets pace the flats.

And when you think you’ve seen Yellow Water at its best, the reason for the name comes to light as the sun starts its run for the western horizon. The water turns to gold and you’re breath catches at the sight of the sky reflecting in the burnished mirror of the billabong.

Find the best Kakadu accommodation at the best prices here.

Yellow Water Cruise

From our safari-style Yellow Water Villa at Cooinda Lodge, we meet our cruise guides at reception. It’s a short five-minute bus transfer to the jetty at Yellow Water, where we board our boat.

These flat-bottomed launches are perfect for exploring the billabong and the covered roof keeps the hot sun off us, though it’s still sweltering in the still air of the tropical afternoon.

But we’re soon on the move and the breeze brings us back to life.

Our guide talks about Yellow River and its incredible array of wildlife. It’s not long before we see our first crocodile—in fact, even before we boarded, we saw one hanging around the boats. There are hundreds of them here.

Enormous, prehistoric, awe-inspiring.

Some glide along effortlessly, eyeing us from the meniscus of the water. Others, basking on muddy banks, gape their savage jaws, showing the terror of their teeth.

Our guide explains there’s no known reason for the crocodiles to do this; she suggests it’s purely a posturing behaviour. It doesn’t bring us any comfort and we shift in our seats as the guide brings the boat closer to one of these fascinating, voracious reptiles.

Aside from the salties, the birdlife here is extraordinary.

Jacanas, with their unfathomable feet, scuttle across lily pads, night herons hide their heads in search of fish, forest kingfishers flash blue and white in the light, spoonbills and ibis forage from their stilts, and sea eagles do battle for their catch with the harrying and ubiquitous whistling kites.

Every minute feels like an Attenborough moment, but as we watch, we realise this is all quite normal for Yellow Water.

Sunset’s Midas Touch Turns Everything To Gold At Yellow Water

Without warning, the sun had decided to make its way to the horizon. It’s either happened that quickly or—more likely—we’ve been so absorbed by watching the nature around us that we haven’t noticed the sky transform.

Bronzing the horizon, the great orb of the sun cooks its last dish of the day, toasting the clouds and brûléeing the water until it seems to crackle under our bow.

Closer the sun comes to the brink, and brighter orange and gold go the heavens and the water. Islands of pandanus and lotus lilies turn to black silhouettes on the water’s gleaming rink-like surface until, with a final goodbye, the sun burns red.

The sky turns purple, then that impossible twilight blue as our boat moves into position at our harbour. We make our way back to the coach as evening draws in still astounded by the magic of Yellow Water and Kakadu.

When’s The Best Time To Visit Yellow Water?

We visited Kakadu near the end of the Dry Season in the last week of September, which is also Kakadu Bird Week.

This is the time of year when the water levels are at their lowest and the wildlife is concentrated into a much smaller area. This means you’re more likely to see things.

It’s also the best time of year to see the incredible spectacle of migrating magpie geese that fill the waterways and floodplains in their tens of thousands.

Check out our birdwatching experience with the remarkable Luke Paterson of NT Bird Specialists here.

However, you’re sure to have an incredible experience at Yellow Water no matter what time of year you’re here.

As for times of day, the sunset cruise was unbelievable, though there is also a sunrise cruise too, which would mean a nice and cool ride before the day gets too hot.

We highly recommend booking your seat on this cruise as early as possible—especially for the sunset ride—as these experiences fill up fast. And quite rightly so.

We travelled to Kakadu as media guests of Kakadu Tourism and Tourism NT, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Must-Do in Kakadu: Yellow Water Cruise at Sunset appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.