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I’ve often wondered why the Central Coast doesn’t hold bigger sway among domestic and international visitors. But with the first major hotel opening in the region for 15 years, I can finally rest easy and worry about something else!

Heralding what’s sure to be some major changes to the region’s profile, the voco Gosford by IHG opened its doors to guests in late 2025.

But it’s not just the 130 rooms across 11 storeys that spell this cultural epiphany for the Central Coast. It’s the rest of the building too.

The voco Gosford sits within the brand new Archibald Precinct, which brings six dining and hospitality options, including an elegant rooftop cocktail bar on the 28th floor with panoramic vistas across the landscape and over Brisbane Waters.

voco Gosford by IHG

As the winding Central Coast Highway twists us down to sea level, our attention moves from the sparkling waters of the bay to the impressive twin towers of the voco Gosford, its distinctive black and white sculpted walls standing taller than any other building in the area.

For now.

Evidence of major construction is poking up all over town, another sign that things here are changing.

The lobby

We’ve timed our drive north to Gosford poorly. We were hoping to pick up a pie from the legendary Shhmoakesy’s Gourmet Pies on the way in, but they run out by lunchtime. Instead, we see if our room’s ready for check-in. Two hours early.

The warmly lit and pleasantly scented lobby is also home to the welcoming Lobby Bar, which doubles up as a cafe during the day. At least we can spend an easy hour there if our room’s not ready.

But we’re in luck; the room’s ready and the friendly reception staff check us in and send us on our happy way. From the lobby, you can also take the stairs at the back to the main dining areas of the precinct. But that’s for later.

The room

Our room is up on the 11th floor, technically the top floor of the hotel. Above that, from 12 to 27, are high-end residential apartments.

The room is also right on the corner of the floor.

And it’s a king suite!

From the front door, a short passageway leads to the enormous bed with a chase and small dining table nearby. The bar fridge and tea caddy is in a cabinet that’s been made to look like a little drinks cart, which is fun.

The TV is tucked into another piece of custom furniture and is — like the bed — huge.

While I’m inspecting the TV and the curtains that cover the windows running the length of the wall, I notice chairs on the narrow balcony outside. I can’t see a door anywhere and jump to the conclusion that this must be a communal balcony. I’m initially outraged.

Then Christina finds the door.

Sliding behind the TV unit, the door opens to a full private balcony that wraps around the corner giving us wonderful views of the town below, the wooded hills and bushland around, and then all the way out to the bay and its coruscating waters.

As we peer down, we can also see the hotel’s rooftop pool and swim-up bar. This is down on the 5th floor — the top of the connecting building between the two towers.

The chairs I spotted — by the way — are ours.

Back in the room, we discover the bathroom behind a door we initially thought was one of those doors that connect to adjoining rooms. This is perhaps the best part of the room, with tactful lighting, a large vanity and luxurious amenities from Apotheke.

And then we see the giant, deep-fill bath tub and the striped tiling that mirrors the exterior walls of this hotel. The tiling continues into the roomy shower with its rippled glass art deco door that glides along on industrial style mechanism of polished brass.

The detail makes the difference

But it’s the details of the suite that give it that comfortable yet elegant edge.

It’s the brass finishes in the bathroom, it’s the (surprisingly satisfying) cyclonic directional flush of the WC, it’s the lush deep pile of the carpet, and best of all it’s the labels on the light switches and the USBs by the bed.

Too many times in too many hotels have we struggled to find the correct light switch, being left either blinded or broken-toed in the middle of the night. The multitude of illumination options here though are clearly signed, removing the guesswork.

If we had any negative points to make, they would be so minor: there are only two bath towels in the room (an easy fix) and the tap is a bit far from the sink, making it awkward to wash your hands and leaving a lot of drips on the vanity (an impossible fix).

Other than that, this room hits all the sweet spots.

The dining options

We’ve mentioned the Lobby Bar and the swim-up Pool Bar but that still leaves four other venues.

The pool bar, by the way, has complicated hours. On paper, its a 10am-8pm option, but in reality, staffing and weather can play a problematic part, so bear that in mind.

Behind the Pool Bar and on dry land, however, is Saltfire. This broad space is — for the moment — only open for breakfast, though this may change in the future. Breakfast is a buffet affair and one that offers the crispiest hash browns on earth. The bacon, though it might not look like it, is the tastiest I’ve had at a hotel buffet.

A big statement, but I’ll stand by it.

Downstairs on the ground floor is Archie’s. Once the Union Hotel, this is now set up to be ‘Gosford’s new local’, and it’s got everything you need for a good old pub and has a big, friendly family vibe.

It also operates as the bar for the two dining options here: Paolo’s Pizzeria and Ironbark.

We find our table at Ironbark and prowl through the menu, all the time glancing over at the dry-ageing cabinet stocked with huge slabs of beef. We’ve heard the tomahawk is excellent here.

The only problem is there are lots of other things catching our eye as we peruse the options. We even debate the pub classics for a while, but in the end settle on a couple of entrees and steaks.

In a way, I wish we’d gone for the burgers or parmies.

Sadly, the steak tartare didn’t really hit the spot for us. It was covered in a strange mayonnaise dressing and — rather than bread or crisps, the kitchen had taken pains to make their own potato sticks that didn’t stay crispy for long enough and weren’t the best vehicle for the tartare.

The steaks came out a bit under-done, which is usually fine by me, but the fat hadn’t rendered properly and the result was quite a sickly scotch fillet.

On the plus side, the portions are enormous. Both our steaks have us beat and we try to finish the side of broccolini, but fail there too. The wine list here also deserves a mention with plenty of NSW options, which we always enjoy seeing.

The glass of Robert Stein Shiraz — a Mudgee favourite of ours — goes down well with all the meat!

The nightcap

Our favourite part of the voco Gosford comes at the end of the night when we step out of the lift on level 28.

Astra, the hotel’s rooftop bar and restaurant, is lovely.

With views almost right around the area through windows that have been thrown open to allow the cool evening sea breeze in, Astra is part cocktail bar, part izakaya, offering excellently crafted drinks and carefully sculpted Japanese dishes in a refined, city-style setting.

We’re more than full from dinner, so we skip the menus and find a spot at the long bar. Andy behind the jump mixes us two superb martinis and we chat about the various virtues of gin for a while.

It’s the perfect end to the day and once back in our palatial room, we settle into the ecstatic comfort of our soft bed in deep contentment.

We stayed and dined as guests of voco Gosford by IHG and Archibald Precinct, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Going Voco Loco — a new luxe staycation in the Central Coast, NSW appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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My wife Susan and I have been planning to do the famed Three Capes Walk in Tasmania for a few years.

We finally organised ourselves to do 10 days down in Tasmania in mid-December. Some of the activities and tours here are seasonal and weather-dependent, so bear that in mind when booking.

The highlights from our trip are:

· The Three Capes Walk
· The Gordon River Cruise
· Kayaking on Dove Lake at Cradle Mountain

Click each heading to jump to that section.

Click here for our driving holiday guide through Tasmania.

Three Capes Walk

When we started planning this trip, the idea was to start in Hobart, do the Three Capes Walk and then end up in Launceston where we would depart.

We also decided to luxe the walk up and went with Life’s an Adventure’s Three Capes Pack-Free Walk.

We have been to Hobart a couple of times before, so this time we spend the first afternoon just exploring the piers and Salamanca, and doing a self-guided historical walk around Battery Point.

In the late afternoon, we head to Lucinda Wine Bar.  A cosy little bar where there isn’t really a menu; rather you just tell them the type of wine you like and they bring something to try. If you like it, you can have a glass. That worked for us.

The next morning — Day One of our hike — we’re up early and head to our rendezvous for the Three Capes Walk at a hotel foyer in Hobart where we meet the two guides and seven fellow adventurers. We travel by minibus across to Port Arthur, where we drop off our bags at the accommodation before heading off on our first walk.

This is a 15km walk that heads out to Cape Raoul before returning on the same path. The views along the way are quite spectacular, and after six hours of walking, with stops along the way, it has made for a big first day.

The two guides are fantastic, offering their knowledge, experience and encouragement along the way. When we get back to the accommodation, we enjoy a beer on the balcony of our lodge.

The second day of the walk is due to be an even bigger one — 19km from Waterfall Bay to Fortescue Bay. We trek through bush and rain forests to sea cliffs. Along the way, we see some echidnas as well as many native birds.

The guides again are invaluable and lead the way. After eight hours on the track, we get to Fortescue Bay, exhausted. Post-dinner, everyone is asleep early — or at least I am.

Our third day of walking is from Fortescue Bay towards Cape Hauy.

This walk will be about 12km and includes many steps along the way, both uphill and downhill. There are spectacular vistas along the cliffs and a view out over the unique rock formations of this rugged coastline. This is raw Tasmanian beauty at its best.

At the conclusion of the walk, we’re driven down to Doo Town and take the Wilderness Boat Trip where we set sail to enjoy the cliffs and bluffs from the water. We then pass by Cape Hauy and continue down towards the lighthouse on Tasman Island.

We are very fortunate to see a bait ball, a term I’ve never heard of, and which we learn is a massive grouping of albatross and other birds all circling a school of fish. In this bait ball there are numerous dolphins and seals, and to everyone’s delight a humpback whale, all enjoying a good feed.

The boat cruise is an excellent way to finish off three big days of walking along the Tasmanian coast to capes.

By the time we get down the coast to see Tasman Island in the Tasman Sea, the wind and swell have really picked up, with a drizzling rain coming in horizontally at speed. We now understand why they gave everyone these bright red waterproof jackets to wear.

On our fourth day, we drive across to Bruny Island where the weather has certainly turned chilly. Imagine it being the middle of summer, and we are in three layers and beanies.

It’s a real treat sampling fresh local oysters, cheese and chocolates on our way to the southernmost tip of Cape Bruny where we also check out the lighthouse — the second oldest in the country by the way.

It is blowing a gale, so we don’t stay too long.

On the way back to the ferry, we stop along the roadside when we come upon three old fridges. They are where the Bruny Baker sells his wood-fired bread fresh each day.

We’re surprised to find the sourdough bread is still warm, and we see that he delivers a couple of times a day as he makes them. We do like the honesty system where you pay for the bread you take with PayID or electronic fund transfer. We need some bread to go along with some of our Bruny Island cheese for dinner tonight. The bread, by the way, was excellent.

The Gordon River Cruise

We break up our five-hour drive to the west coast town of Strahan by stopping at Lawrenny Distillery for a tasting and purchases, then on to Derwent Bridge for lunch where we meet the most eccentric café owner in Queenstown – Pete, who owns Orangepete Café.

Pete was a builder by trade and struggled to get coffee for early starts or later in the day.  So much so that he started his own café on the main street, with orange being the dominate colour of decoration.

Strahan is a small town and we walk along the foreshore to head out on the half-day Gordon River Cruise. The weather is brilliant. It is amazing to learn how in the 1800s, they made the narrow entrance to the harbour — ‘Hell’s Gates’ — safer with the construction by convicts of rock walls in the water.

Heading up the river checking out the trees and wildlife is not as interesting for me, but everyone else on the cruise seems quite taken by it.

What I really am enjoying is the guided historic tour of Sarah Island. We learn that it was utilised before Port Arthur was established, and was for those convicts that committed second offences. How interesting that Sarah Island became the preeminent ship building yard in Australia due to excellent timber from the forest and cheap convict labour.

Kayaking at Dove Lake in Cradle Mountain

It is raining throughout our two-hour drive north from Strahan to Cradle Mountain, which doesn’t bode well for the afternoon walk we have planned. However, that afternoon, whilst bleak, it isn’t raining so we are able to do the Dove Lake trek around the shores. The next morning, we awake to brilliant sunshine and head off to do the Dove Lake Kayak adventure.

We discover that these kayaks are hand-built using Tasmanian King Billy pine. It is really cool to be paddling on the lake, and now and then stopping for a cup of tea whilst taking in Cradle Mountain and the surrounding landscape.

When we finally get ourselves to Launceston Airport with stops at a couple of wineries along the way. We have had an excellent 10-day trip away to Tasmania. It has certainly lived up to its reputation of being a wild and ruggedly beautiful place with plenty of history.

The post Into The Wild — exploring Tasmania’s rugged beauty by Mark Buckley appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Closer to Indonesia’s capital than its own nation’s, Perth is a really long way from anywhere. That said, this city and its surroundings have an incredible variety of things to see and do, which is just as well.

When a bunch of mates decide to head over for the ill-fated 2025 Ashes’ First Test, they find more free time in Perth than they bargain for.

From lively nightlife in the city to wine regions with bucolic cellar doors to elegant architecture and plenty of history, it turns out that Western Australia’s keystone town has more than enough to keep a crop of cricket-bereft blokes busy for the weekend.

Yes, I was part of that group of mates, and here’s what we got up to.

Click each heading below to jump to that day’s adventures. Don’t worry, you can always come back up here!

Day 1 – Ashes to Ashes
Day 2 – Dust to Dusty
Day 3 – Freo to Roam
Day 4 – Doubloons, Dumplings and Delays

From the biggest pub in Australia to the oldest running pub in WA, and what proves to be the shortest Ashes Test in 137 years, here’s what happens when a bunch of east coast lads head west.

Brett, Nim and I in Sydney Airport with our first beers of the trip

It Begins

After months of planning, and even more time spent in talk and discussion, it’s finally time to board our plane to Perth.

Flying over the Swan Valley’s vineyards as we land in Perth

For some of us (not me), this is our first time to Perth. For others (me), this will be our first Ashes test. But the brief is quite simple: let’s watch plenty of cricket and have a beer or two.

But what transpires is quite the opposite.

Five of us arrive in Perth at roughly the same time. Frenchie has some business to take care of (plus a flight delay), so the rest of us — me, Brett, Brownie, Dom and Nim — make our way to the nearest pub for drinks and dinner.

The Grosvenor Hotel is a cracker. Set on the corner of Hay Street and Hill Street, it’s been here since 1886 and is one of just three remaining Perth pubs from the 1880s.

It’s also closely associated with social gatherings for the Perth Football Club, which had its home at the WACA, so we’ve started strong with the sporting and cricket link.

After a couple of beers, most of us move to local wine: a delicious Vasse Felix Sem Sauv from Margaret River.

In spite of his frequent calls in days to come, Dom will be sad to learn that tonight’s meal will be his only chance to sample nachos from WA this trip. The good news is it’s a tasty iteration of Dom’s desire.

Me, Brownie, Brett, Nim and Dom in the Grosvenor Hotel, and a very respectable spice bag (nachos not pictured)

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Perth Day 1: Ashes to Ashes

After breakfast , the six of us troop through Gloucester Park and join the throngs of fellow cricket fans crossing the oxbow arc of the Swan River to the mighty 60,000-seater Perth Stadium.

Barely seven years old, this beautiful arena is packed to the brim with a sell-out crowd excited to see their country duel it out for cricket’s most venerated trophy.

England win the toss and choose to bat, and then things go badly wrong. Including four ducks (two golden), everyone’s out by 3pm and they’ve manage to scrape together 175 runs. The Aussies are all smiles, but by the end of the first day, they’ve lost nine wickets too.

It’s action-packed, but for all the wrong reasons.

We spend the morning sessions in our seats until the boiling disc of WA sunshine turns its Sauronic eye towards us. We duck for cover to the Camfield — the stadium’s onsite watering hole and reputedly the biggest pub in Australia.

We take advantage of the 175 beer taps until stumps on the first day with Australia still batting, but with only two wickets to spare and 49 runs to chase.

After a quick nap, shower and change at our hotel, we’re back in the mix for dinner and drinks.

We explore Perth’s city centre, which is so lively; the energy here is wonderful. After a while, we settle on Furaibo Izakaya and Bar, a busy modern Japanese restaurant in Murray Street Mall, and delve into an assortment of tasty dishes.

We wander around the city for a while until we find ourselves at the State Buildings. Once a hub for Perth politics and governance, this grand old heritage building is now a centre for high-end retail, hotels, bars and restaurants.

We tuck ourselves away in Beer Corner, a boutique watering hole serving craft beers from around WA. Brett, the beer monster among us, is in his element with the 20 taps clamouring for his attention.

We all settle on a beer. Apart from Dom, who insists on a tasting paddle of tiny beer pots, putting us all to shame with our single big glasses.

Looking further into the State Buildings complex, we discover a lovely little wine bar — the Wine Merchant — for a night cap.

Part of the highly-regarded Petition Restaurant, this nook of a bar sells takeaway wine, but also wine by the glass. You can also buy a bottle, sit down here and drink it. I wish there were more places like this.

We find a table big enough for six and set Brownie — our wine aficionado — to the task of picking something wonderful to drink.

He does such a good job, we end up in a little vertical tasting; the same bottle separated by 23 vintages! The 2001 is by far the superior.

Before we leave, Brownie and Frenchie squeeze our host for some recommendations of bars in the area. This will come in handy tomorrow!

I love a local tip, so here’s what’s on his list:

Bar Lafayette, Bobeche, Brookfield Place, Terrarium, Foxtrot Unicorn and Varnish on King.

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Perth Day 2: Dust to Dusty

Today, we don’t have tickets for the cricket as we bargained on a ‘normal’ test and thought Day 3 would be the better option.

I have put together a mini itinerary to go and check out Perth’s Swan Valley Wine Region, the second oldest in Australia after the Hunter Valley and only half an hour out of the city.

We kick off with a tasty breakfast at one of Frenchie’s finds: Double A On the River, a cafe right on the banks of the Swan. Then the six of us somehow squeeze into a single Uber and head for Lancaster Wines on the outer reaches of the Swan Valley.

We’re one of the first to arrive at this open-air cellar door among the vines, but the place fills up fast with tour groups.

Lancaster has vines that were planted in 1829, some of the oldest in the region, and the wine reflects that. Their Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Old Vine Shiraz are excellent, but their fortified Sticky Shiraz is unique and delicious.

Next, we head to Sandalford Wines. This is the Swan Valley’s most established and commercial winery. Its long, sweeping tasting bar fills one side of the room while the other is a boutique displaying beautifully curated oddments, art, stemware, and merch.

We work our way through the tasting, relishing the Chenin Blanc, Rosé and botrytis Semillon.

Brett is on a charm offensive — our next stop is through a potentially locked gate at the back of the venue to Mandoon Estate and Homestead Brewery. It’s either that or a very long walk round.

Thankfully, Brett’s fluttering lashes do the trick and the kind lady tips us off as to the gate’s whereabouts.

Mandoon Estate and its connected microbrewery is a busy family-focused spot with big tables spread across a wide rolling lawn. Pizzas next to the beer bar are the way forward and we give the beer tasting paddles a nudge too before heading into the winery’s neat cellar door and tasting room.

Once again, Chenin Blancs, Chardonnays, Shiraz and a very respectable reserve Cabernet are the order of the day, as well as happy, friendly service.

We retire to a table in the expansive restaurant bar beyond the cellar door with perfect views of the TV and the cricket, which is turning into a repeat of Day 1.

Soon, it’s time to move again and we shoehorn ourselves into another maxi-taxi for a quick trip to the quaint little town of Guildford and to Western Australia’s oldest operating pub, the Rose and Crown Hotel.

This beautiful old pub has a history that goes back to 1841, and its redbrick walls, buzzing courtyard beer garden and even a dining room in the cellar echo with history.

We score a sofa and armchairs right in front of the big TV in the old part of the pub and watch the craziest Ashes test we’ve ever seen.

With both teams batting like they need to be somewhere, it’s all over before the end of Day Two, with Australia winning by eight wickets. It’s the shortest Ashes test in 137 years.

Back in the city, we get changed for our dinner booking at Sentinel Bar and Grill. This New York bistro style eatery has plenty of options on the menu, and we pick a few things to share.

The baked halloumi with roasted pear, hot honey and walnut is tasty and the two pasta dishes we order are great, but the on-the-bone ribeye, which we had high hopes for, doesn’t really hit the mark.

Standout though, is the steak tartare with quail egg yolk and aioli.

From the barman’s notes the night before, we hunt down Foxtrot Unicorn for a cocktail or two.

Known for being Perth’s most awarded cocktail bar, this atmospheric subterranean speakeasy is in an old bank vault built in 1887. With its timber-clad walls, eclectic up-cycled decor and low, dark ceilings, this is my kind of bar.

After a couple of cocktails, most of the guys head back to the hotel, but Nim and I stick around for a drink or two more. A drink or two? Who am I kidding? We stay until the lights go up!

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Freo to Roam

We’re all pretty slow to wake this morning. With the test over, our Day 3 tickets are useless, so Frenchie finds a great little cafe called Cravings for breakfast where we plot our trajectory.

Our plans eventually settle on Fremantle.

Leaning an elbow out into the Indian Ocean, Fremantle and its vibrant bar scene is also Perth’s historic centre.

There’s plenty for us to see and do here, though our first port of call — after a brisk march through Fremantle Markets — is the Norfolk Hotel. This big busy corner pub has barely opened, but we find our way in and stick around for a couple of hours.

From there, we explore the busy streets lined with elegant colonial architecture that houses Fremantle’s thriving retail and hospitality scenes. We find our way to the coast and the historic Whaler’s Tunnel, built by the whaling fleet to make transferring their hauls into the markets easier.

Here, we also find the Round House, a 19th Century prison and the first permanent building of the Swan Valley Colony.

But that’s not why we’re in this part of town.

This is a shortcut to Gage Roads Brewery (how predictable of us!) where we score a rare table on the wharf looking out over the water while we work through some tasting paddles.

Making our way back into the heart of Freo, we nab another coveted table at the rooftop bar of the National Hotel. This grand old beauty caught our eye as we were wandering the streets earlier, and from four storeys above, this charming hotel gives up perfect views of the town.

After a few, we clamber back down to earth in more ways than one; Brett insists on us having a quick beer in the Buffalo Club.

There were once many Buffalo Clubs all over the world, which were started in the 1820s as the Antediluvian Order of Buffaloes. In fact, Christina’s grandmother was once a member of the Darwin chapter.

These days, only a few remain and ‘The Buff’ in Freo has definitely seen better days. But the beer’s cold (and quite cheap) and the service and locals couldn’t be more welcoming.

Between pubs, some of us even find time to do a spot of thrifting for some ‘weird shit’ in Fremantle!

Our final stop as evening draws in is a little door down a side street that everyone in the group is claiming they saw first.

This swashbuckling bar is Darling Darling and the resounding favourite of the weekend.

As our eyes adjust to our gloomy surroundings, we realise just how unique this little place is. Walls are strung with old ropes and naval knots, broad-bottomed candles have glued themselves to tables and low-slung candelabras, and there’s a crunch underfoot from empty monkey nut shells.

Ensconced at a little table against a timber-clad wall, we entertain ourselves by throwing shells at each other — this is Frenchie and Nim’s favourite part of the whole day — while we await cocktails from the lone barman. If any of us knew a sea shanty, this would be the place for it.

It’s not until someone — probably Dom — announces they’re hungry that we dislodge ourselves and head to Cicerello’s to see if their claim of ‘the home of fish n chips’ is valid.

The food’s not bad, but it makes me wonder what the self-proclaimed title really means. It’s a chippy that’s been going for over 100 years, so they must be doing something right.

But we hurry back to Darling Darling and stay for a while longer, filling up the corners with more free peanuts and artfully made seafaring cocktails.

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Day 4 – Doubloons, Dumplings and Delays

It’s time to leave Perth for our respective homes. But before we go, there’s still time for a bit more adventure.

Brett has been jonesing for a trip the Perth Mint since we got here, so we check out and find coffee (and very tasty homemade empanadas that Nim and I indulge in) from The Sansrival Cafe, right across from the mint.

We’re the first group of the day at the mint and our guide is clearly a morning person. She’s brilliant and funny, deadpan and well trained.

She takes us round the mint, shows us the one tonne solid gold dollar coin and then pours molten gold into an ingot. We also learn about the 1890s gold rush in WA, and that people still buy gold here; Nim overhears someone buying a kilo of it. That’s over $200,000 at current values.

After the tour, Dom leaves us for the airport and the rest of us are a little peckish. Someone has the brilliant idea of yum cha, and we hunt down Six Fortune Northbridge Chinese Restaurant (and Canton Roe next door) for a host of dumpling goodies and a lazy susan.

Bellies full, we waddle out of the restaurant and make our way slowly to the hotel for our left luggage.

Our number dwindles to four as Brownie heads to his private jet. We’re left bunkered down amongst the FIFOs as we watch our flight suffer delay after delay.

Fortunately, the bar’s open in the terminal though. Brett and I stick to beers, but Nim and Frenchie hit the vino. Hopefully we’ll all sleep well on the flight — if it ever gets here.

Hours later — just before midnight — I step through the door to find Christina on the sofa, asleep. She’s tried to wait up for me; a herculean effort and one I barely manage myself. It’s been an excellent trip away, but as always, it’s good to be home.

The post How to eat, drink and be merry (but not watch cricket) in Perth, WA appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Cupitt’s Estate is a small but highly-acclaimed family-run winery and brewery in the South Coast of NSW, not far from the rocky shores and sensational beaches of Ulladulla and Mollymook, a few hours’ drive from Sydney.

We first came here on a tip-off from a friend when we stayed at Bannisters years ago. Although a few things have changed — the deck at the back of the cellar door is much bigger and the car park has grown too — the wine, beer and warmest of welcomes are just the same.

Perhaps the biggest difference is the accommodation that’s on offer here now.

Check out our video of Cupitt’s Estate’s accommodation, experiences and dining:

Where to stay at Cupitt’s Estate

Looking out over the estate’s 75 hectares, the Cupitts have built ten beautifully appointed villas. These villas feel more like high-end hotel suites, just without the impersonal corridors and lobby.

Each one is separated from its neighbours and angled in such a way that makes them completely private.

As with a suite, there’s a lounge and dining area, as well as a kitchenette. But what sets these villas apart is the deep-fill bath tub outside on the balcony.

At night, you can enjoy the conflagration of stars overhead from your soak, and in the daytime — if you’re lucky — the estate’s cows will be grazing in the paddock next door.

Our villa comes with a breakfast hamper replete with crusty sourdough, fresh fruit and muesli, and in the fridge is yoghurt and milk.

Instead of the usual coffee pod machine, the Cupitts have supplied clever fold-out coffee bags that sit in your cup and brew.

It’s details like this that shows just how much thought has gone into these villas.

For more of our stories on the South Coast, hotel reviews, restaurants, things to do, click here.

Click here to find great deals on other accommodation around the South Coast.

Down the corridor is the bedroom. Its enormous bed is so comfy, and the soft furnishings and artworks add to that homely yet stylish touch here.

The bathroom’s on the small side, but it has everything you need, including a rainfall shower and high-quality Australian-made bathroom amenities from Leif.

The kitchenette and minibar are well stocked — of course with Cupitt’s wines — but also with premixed cocktails from the winery’s bar. There are even oversized ice cubes in the freezer, a cocktail mixing set and heavy tumblers to give that cocktail bar feel to your drink.

There’s also a basket of goodies in the kitchenette. In particular chocolates from nearby Woodstock are worth a nibble. Staff at the winery also recommend going to the shop in Woodstock to try the chocolate at the source.

Cupitt’s Estate Cellar Door

Beyond the villas, the winery has a beautiful outlook, just perfect for a delicious glass of wine or craft beer, both made right here. The winery has a few small vineyards, but a lot of the wine they make is with grapes from other parts of NSW.

The beer, however, is all made on-site and is as good a reason as the wine to come and visit Cupitt’s.

Wine tastings usually happen at the cellar door in this historic building from 1851. The building was once the creamery of the dairy that stood here.

The family used to make their own cheese, continuing the tradition of the property. It’s a shame they don’t do that anymore, as the cheese was excellent, but it’s a lot of extra work.

While you’re here, don’t forget to sign up to the wine club for discounts on lots of things including wine, beer, dining and accommodation. And first dibs on wine deliveries of course.

Otherwise, you can sign up to the Cupitt’s Wine Club here before you visit.

But we’re having our wine tasting down in the barrel room.

As part of the Tour & Taste experience, we’re tasting wine that’s spent plenty of time in this room already.

When the Cupitts built the winery in 2001, they had the forethought to not only create a beautiful space to grow, make and enjoy wine, but also an underground cellar to store it.

Under the winery itself, more like something you’d find in Europe than on the NSW South Coast, the subterranean barrel cellar is a very special place.

There’s something so magical about drinking wine in a room like this, surrounded by barrels, deep underground.

Dining Options at Cupitt’s Estate

Back top side, we’re ready for dinner. On the deck and in the wine garden, you can enjoy casual dining with pizzas and a range of other tasty plates.

For a more formal meal experience, Cupitt’s has an excellent restaurant with views out over the countryside.

Check out Christina’s stunning food photography!

Oysters with views out over the vineyards and South Coast countryside

Scallops sautéed in green garlic butter

Roasted figs with capocollo and whipped ricotta

Mains – fries in the middle and on the right, pork rack and grilled rapini

Blistered octopus with charred cavolo nero and a romesco sauce

Dessert of caramelised figs, salted hazelnuts and dark chocolate ganache

We start with some fresh oysters with a mignonette, then move through the gears with scallops sautéed in green garlic butter and roasted figs with capocollo and whipped ricotta.

Next to us the sun sets, sparkling off Stony Creek in the distance as it runs into the sea.

For mains, we go for pork rack and grilled rapini, and beautifully tender blistered octopus with charred cavolo nero and a romesco sauce. And a bowl of fries of course.

We share a dessert of caramelised figs, salted hazelnuts and dark chocolate ganache before wandering back to our villa for a blissful night’s sleep.

We were hosted as media guests at Cupitt’s Estate, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Where to Stay on the NSW South Coast — Cupitt’s Estate, Ulladulla appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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More than twice the size of Yellowstone National Park in the USA, Kakadu is truly enormous. It’s home to around a third of Australia’s bird species and over 10,000 saltwater crocodiles (yup, the bitey ones).

It’s also where the longest living culture still exists after 65,000 years and the incredible rock art and history that goes with it still going strong.

Kakadu is a place of abundance and intrigue, of extremes and superlatives, and it’s one of the most fascinating places you could ever hope to visit.

Here are our top tips for where to stay, where to go and what to do in this unique landscape.

Essential Guide to Kakadu National Park

Clicking on each chapter will jump straight to that section.

• How to get to Kakadu
• Where to stay in Kakadu
• Where to eat in Kakadu
• Things to do in Kakadu – this is the long one!

— The best rock art sites

— Culture hubs – Kakadu visitor centres

— Getting back to nature – seeing Kakadu’s wildlife

• What’s the best time of year to visit Kakadu?
• Let’s sum it all up for you

How to Get to Kakadu

Kakadu is right at the Top End, a few hours’ drive east from Darwin. The best way to get to Darwin — of course — is to fly.

From Sydney, it’s a 4-hour 20-minute flight, and all the other east-coast Aussie state capitals are about the same .Adelaide and Perth are around 3h35m, and Hobart is a sickly seven-odd hours with a stop along the way.

Other options are to sail in. Darwin Harbour is lovely and has regular cruises and other ships pull in. We docked at Darwin years ago after a National Geographic voyage around the Kimberley Coast.

The other option is driving to Darwin. Driving the Top End is an awesome experience and highly recommended if you have the time.

Either way, once in Darwin, you will need a car to get to Kakadu. You can find great prices on car rentals from Darwin Airport here. We recommend a 4WD capable car.

If you don’t want to drive yourself, there are lots of tours going from Darwin to Kakadu that are excellent too. This one goes from Darwin City right into the park, to infamous Cahill’s Crossing to see huge estuarine crocodiles, then to Ubirr for the most astounding rock art and back to Darwin in a day!

Where to Stay in Kakadu

There aren’t many places to stay in Kakadu. In fact, unless you want to camp, you’re limited to just a couple of hotels.

The Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel in the little town of Jabiru is wonderfully kitsch and comfortable. Built in the shape of a massive crocodile, the Croc has been renovated from its previous motel status.

You can find our full review of this interesting hotel here.

The other option is Cooinda Lodge, which has a range of accommodation, from a campsite and hardstandings for motorhomes to motel-style rooms to full-blown luxury safari lodge style cabins.

We stayed in the cabins — the Yellow Water Villas — and it was wonderful. Here’s our review.

Where to Eat in Kakadu

Apart from snacks at some of the visitor centres and a pretty expensive supermarket in Jabiru, you’re limited to the restaurants at the hotels.

Fortunately, these restaurants are excellent.

Manjmukmuk Restaurant in the Croc Hotel has an affordable buffet option and also a lovely a la carte full-service section that offers some really quite impressive dishes. Our review is here.

Mimi’s at Cooinda is excellent and the chef — Phillip Foote — creates special menus that showcase local bush ingredients that are seasonally available.

Also at Cooinda Lodge is the Barra Bar, serving pub style classics, and a fish and chip van that is actually superb.

Check out our write-up of all the food options in Cooinda here.

Things to Do in Kakadu

Ancient Galleries — Kakadu’s Rock Art Sites

There are plenty of sites around Kakadu where you can find some of the best examples of Indigenous rock art in Australia.

Ubirr

One of the largest collections of ancient rock painting is at Ubirr, where there are paths leading throughout this significant gallery. There’s even evidence here of thylacines — Tasmanian Tigers — through the art.

High up on what would once have been the rocky floor of the site is a painting of the now-extinct carnivorous marsupial. There are also depictions of megafauna — gigantic kangaroos and wombats the size of cars.

This all illustrates not only that humans were around when these ancestors of dinosaurs walked the earth, but also just how old these artworks are.

There’s plenty of parking right at the Ubirr site, and watching the sunset here is also very popular.

Nourlangie

At the base of a magnificent limestone outcrop of the escarpment, Nourlangie Rock, thousands of paintings tell the millennia of history of the Bininj and Mungguy culture.

You can also see where artists and elders of the current generation have come to update and maintain the gallery that has been here for so many thousands of years.

We were lucky to have brilliant young local guide James Morgan show us around Nourlangie and tell us some of the stories around the art.

Between late May and late September, you can book a local guide to take you round different cultural places like Ubirr and Nourlangie for free! Keep an eye on the Kakadu Tourism site for details.

Culture Hubs – Kakadu’s Visitor Centres

Kakadu has some truly excellent visitor centres that not only offer information on places to go and things to do, but also insights into the park’s culture and history.

Bowali Visitor Centre

This centre is the best visitor centre for speaking to a guide about where to go in the park and what to see.

There’s also an excellent display on the plants, animals and landscapes you’ll experience in Kakadu.

Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre

Through the doors of this impressive centre, you’ll find a winding path that takes you around a clever exhibit on the cultural history and network of the local peoples of the region.

You’ll find examples of tools, messaging systems and artworks of the area, as well as real-life stories from people growing up in Kakadu and a simplified explanation of the complex kinship rules governing marriage and families here.

Marrawuddi Art Gallery

This gallery has an impressive collection of artworks of a range of media by Kakadu artists and from the wider region you can buy. It also sells a range of bags, clothing and souvenirs.

Just as important, Marrawuddi Art Gallery makes the best takeaway coffee in the park. We highly recommend enjoying your well-made flat white as you wander around the racks of art in the lovely air conditioning!

Getting Back to Nature — Kakadu’s Wild Side

Kakadu Bird Week with Luke Paterson from NT Bird Specialists

One of the highlights of Kakadu’s tourist calendar is Kakadu Bird Week, which runs at the end of September. It champions not only the enormous depth and wealth of birdlife in Kakadu, which is home to over a third of all Australia’s bird species, it’s also timed with one of nature’s great spectacles.

This time of year, when the dry season is at its end, the waterways are at their lowest. This concentrates the waterbirds’ habitat. It also coincides with the flocking of thousands upon thousands of magpie geese.

You can see this for yourself quite easily by making your way to any of the large billabongs of the park.

But if you want to do it properly (and actually understand what you’re looking at), booking a tour with NT Bird Specialists is a must. Luke ‘Hawkeye’ Paterson is one of Australia’s if not the world’s great ornithologists. And his moniker is not unfounded.

The couple of morning hours we spend with Luke, we spotted 64 different bird species and learnt about a lot more. You can read our full review of our time birding with Luke in Kakadu here.

Cahill’s Crossing — the most dangerous road in the world

On the eastern edge of Kakadu, where the park ends and Arnhem Land begins, runs the East Alligator River. It’s a poor name for the waterway as there are no alligators in it at all. No, instead you’ll find hundreds of enormous saltwater crocodiles.

The road to Arnhem Land fords this river, and in the dry season, the water’s low enough to drive across. I wouldn’t recommend it — you also need the appropriate permits to cross the river — but the viewing platform on the western bank gives you the perfect (and safely elevated) perspective on the hunting crocs.

Check out our review on Cahill’s Crossing here, as well as our viral video on this dangerous roadway.

Ngurrungurrudjba — Yellow Water Sunset Cruise

Easily the most beautiful and nature-filled activity in Kakadu, the Yellow Water Cruise is special. From Cooinda Lodge (you can book your cruise here), a bus transfers you to the little jetty where everyone boards small, flat-bottom launches that allow access to shallow waters.

You cruise along this magnificent stretch of water, spotting everything from jacana birds and water buffalo to brolgas and massive saltwater crocs. There are so many of these modern dinosaurs in Yellow Water, you almost become complacent with them.

Why is it called Yellow Water you may ask. The name (no, it’s not because of that) becomes apparent as the sun sets and lights the surface of this billabong a dazzling gold colour that turns to bronze and red as the sun gets lower.

Check out our review and video of this spectacular experience here.

Maguk Waterfall

One of the few waterfalls that runs all year round in Kakadu, Maguk and its sparkling plunge pool are tucked away into the stony cliffs of the escarpment.

To get to the waterfall, you’re looking at unsealed roads and a bush walk that’s challenging at times as it follows the rocky riverside of Barramundi Gorge.

The hot hike is worth it though. You emerge from the steaming rainforest to the idyllic sight of the falls and its pool that have carved themselves into the sandstone over the millennia. It’s safe to swim here in the dry season, and the cool water is the perfect salve to the sweltering heat.

Check out our write-up and video on Maguk here.

Angabang Billabong

On the drive to Nourlangie and its amazing rock art galleries, Angabang Billabong is a small wetlands that’s worth a quick stop to see.

The shallow water spreads glittering across the plain and attracts a host of birdlife. At its back, the sculpted near horizon of Nawurlandja looms, creating an atmospheric vista.

Nawurlandja at sunset

The steady incline of Nawurlandja takes you to a vast viewpoint that has Angabang Billabong at its feet, the stern bluff of Nourlangie behind and the ranging escarpment filling in the background.

Nawurlandja — like Nourlangie — has some excellent rock art, but as the sun hits the western limits, it’s this vista you come for. Turning the sky a boiling red and the rocks around gold and crimson, sunset at Nawurlandja is startlingly beautiful.

Also, as this part of the park closes at nightfall, you’ll find a Bininj park ranger monitoring visitors. They’re happy to answer questions about the area and often have excellent tips for your time here.

Mirray Lookout

About halfway between Cooinda and Jabiru, Mirray Lookout is a reasonably tough 1,000m uphill scramble up loose rocks and red dirt to a lofty timber viewing platform.

The platform’s roof and the breeze at this elevation is lovely, and once you’ve cooled down, you can take in the views.

From here, the sea of trees seems to go on forever, hiding wetlands, rivers and its abundance of wildlife from view.

The trees are punctuated by ridges of the Arnhem Land escarpment — Stone Country to the Bininj and Mungguy. It’s here that evidence exists of humans’ longest continuing culture in the world.

What’s the Best Time of Year to Visit Kakadu

We’ve had the fortune to visit Kakadu a number of times — in the Wet Season in March and April, at the end of the Dry in September and on the brink of summer in December, the surreal super-humid moment when the Dry has finished but the storms of the Wet haven’t yet come.

Dry Season — May-October

It’s easy to see why the Dry Season is popular for tourists. The humidity is low, the flies aren’t too bad and a lot of the waterways are navigable. In fact the low water levels often mean that wildlife is more concentrated.

However, it is the busy season for the park.

Wet Season — November-April

Also known as the Green Season or the Tropical Summer, the Wet is exactly as it sounds. The rains are heavy and regular, and the temperatures and humidity are high. Some of the attractions will be unreachable or dangerous with water inundation and the crocodiles expanding their territories.

However, the abundance of life in the park is amazing at this time of year. Everything is green and lush, and the swollen rivers and billabongs add that extra bit of drama to everything. Scenic flights at this time of year reveal the true wealth of nature of Kakadu.

It’s also much quieter in the Wet Season, which means you pretty much have the run of the place.

A Quick Summary

Getting there

Direct flights from all Aussie capitals (apart from Hobart) to Darwin, then hire a car from Darwin to drive about 3.5 hours to Kakadu.

Where to stay

The Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel in Jabiru is a quirky motel-style hotel in the shape of a crocodile.

Cooinda Lodge has everything from a camping ground to motel style cabins to high-end luxury glamping retreats that are amazing.

Where to eat

Manjmukmuk Restaurant in the Croc Hotel is good. Mimi’s at Cooinda is excellent. Also at Cooinda Lodge is the Barra Bar, serving pub style classics, and a fish and chip van that is actually superb.

Marrawuddi Art Gallery has the best coffee in the area.

Things to do

Must-dos are Ubirr and Nourlangie for the best rock art, Cahill’s Crossing for crocodiles and the Yellow Water cruise at sunset for the scenery.

If Maguk is open, then it’s worth the hike.

Experience the profound birdlife in Kakadu. You can do this on your own, but booking a tour with people like NT Bird Specialists puts it in a whole other league.

What’s the best time of year to visit?

The Dry Season (May-October) is the most popular because the park is so much easier to get around, but it is a lot busier. The Wet (November-April) is the most dramatic, though humidity is tough.

The thing to remember with Kakadu is it’s beautiful and utterly unforgettable all year round.

The post Essential Guide to Kakadu National Park, Australia appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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We’ve been lucky enough to visit Uluru more than once in our lives. For me, this is my third time in fact. Coming back here — to see this amazing place and to walk in the shadow of the world’s largest monolith — never loses its magic.

Not only is it iconic as Australia’s heart stone, Uluru also represents a vital part of the Anangu’s creation story.

And you can feel the energy of this place seeping up into you from the ground.

However, in the past, we’ve only ever camped here in the Red Centre. And while setting up your swag in the middle of the desert with the brilliant constellations of the galaxy shining down on you may sound romantic, air conditioning, an ensuite and pillow tops trump the hand.

Check out our video walkthrough of Sails in the Desert here:

– Here are our other stories from Uluru and the things you can do in the Red Centre.

– For tours and activities to enjoy while you’re in the Uluru Kata Tju?a National Park, click here.

– And for the best deals on stays near Uluru, click here.

Where is the Sails in the Desert Hotel?

Not far from Uluru is the little township of Yulara. Most of the town is made up of the Voyages Ayres Rock Resort* and its numerous hotels, of which Sails in the Desert is the biggest.

There are a couple of shops here too and an excellent gallery where you can buy art by local artists.

Yulara is only about 10km from the base of Uluru as the crow flies and it’s a 15-20min drive from Sails in the Desert to the car park at the Rock.

But thanks to the flatness of the desert and the impressive 350m height of Uluru, you can easily see it from town — from certain points of Sails in the Desert in fact. You can also clearly see Kata Tju?a to the west.

* The Indigenous people here — Anangu — were asked if the name should change to Uluru Resort, but they said no as the resort is nothing to do with their culture. The same goes for Ayres Rock Airport.

What’s it like at Sails in the Desert?

Sails in the Desert is an oasis in this tough remote red landscape. Its lagoon pool, surrounded by tall eucalyptus trees and lush gardens, belies the harshness of its environment.

Peering through the foliage is the two-storey terraces of the hotel’s accommodation. Ground-level rooms have private courtyards while first floor ones have balconies.

Our first floor Superior Room is comfortable, with a well-appointed bathroom sporting Wiru amenities, an Indigenous owned and run cosmetics company that uses native bush botanicals like wattle seed and quandong.

Superior Rooms come with two queen beds or one king — ours has two queens, which is a bit confusing initially, but it does show just how big this room is. The balcony is quite small, though there’s enough space for a couple of chairs and a table. Mind you, it’s usually too hot to spend too long out here in the day!

There are some lovely touches to the room. Lighting is well considered and there’s a large piece of original Indigenous artwork, sourced from the Maruku Arts Market Place and the Gallery of Central Australia down the road.

Where to eat at Sails in the Desert

There are a number of places to dine here. You’ll find the Pira Pool Bar and the Walpa Lobby Bar inside Sails, as well as the dining area for breakfast each morning.

But as you’re staying in part of the Ayres Rock Resort, the other venues of the resort are open to you too.

Casual dining like Ayres Wok Noodle Bar and Kulata Academy Cafe all the way up to Ilkari Restaurant and the Mangata Bistro and Bar are available to you. And that’s just the beginning!

Things to do nearby that Sails in the Desert can help with

The best part of staying with the Voyages Ayres Rock Resort is that these guys are involved with the very best things to do around Uluru.

Voyages communicates very closely with the elders of the Anangu and have made sure these attractions are in everyone’s best interests. Not only are they fascinating things to do, they also benefit Anangu and the local community.

Guided sunrise walks around Uluru are a must. Each walk is lead by an Anangu elder and the stories they can tell bring so many more layers of meaning to brilliance to this magical place.

Beyond that, Wintjiri Wiru, the biggest permanent drone show, tells part of the origin story for Anangu and is absolutely breath-taking. I think I swore almost the whole way through!

You can see our full story and video about Wintjiri Wiru here.

For the ultimate dining experience, Tali Wiru takes you up into the dunes of the desert for the single-most unique meal you’ll ever have. As the sun sets and lights up Uluru on the horizon, you’re treated to a superlative set of dishes using fine-dining techniques on bush tucker with matching wines.

Check out our full write-up on Tali Wiru here.

Staying at Sails in the Desert is a great option for accommodation near Uluru, but your hotel room here really is just the beginning of a much bigger experience.

We stayed as media guests of Voyages and Ayres Rock Resort, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Where to Stay Near Uluru — Sails in the Desert appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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There are a few indelible rules to travel writing. One, of course, is never turn down a lounge pass. Another is that you never call a place ‘breath-taking’.

That is unless you visit Maguk Waterfall in Kakadu National Park.

The moment you emerge from the steaming forest to see the sparkling plunge pool in the rugged hug of the ruddy sandstone cliffs and the spectacle of the cascading waterfall, nothing but that much-maligned cliche will do.

Check out our video of Maguk to see exactly what I mean:

– Here’s a link to our Kakadu library. for more of our stories on this amazing national park.

– We stayed at Cooinda Lodge, the closest accommodation to Maguk. You can find the best deals on Cooinda Lodge here.

– And to book amazing activities and tours in Kakadu, click here.

Maguk Waterfall, Kakadu National Park

We leave our beautiful safari-style Yellow Water Retreat at Cooinda Lodge as the sun peeps above the horizon.

It’s an important trick to travelling in the Northern Territory: get as much done as you can before it gets too hot.

The drive to our turn-off takes just 35 minutes. The road is well-maintained and there’s no traffic this time of day. After that, things take a little longer.

From the turn-off, it’s 10km of unsealed road, which is easy-going for the most part, but there are sections that a two-wheel-drive car might struggle.

The Walk To Maguk

Part of the adventure of this place is the hike to get there. It’s only a 1km walk to the waterfall, but there are parts that are quite rugged where you need to clamber over rocks and tread carefully down to the bottom of the gorge.

And as the heat of the day builds, the call of the waterfall and a swim in its pool gets ever louder.

The path takes you through dramatic monsoon forests of peeling paperbark trees, broad sprawling palms and gigantic anbinik trees, which are only found here in Kakadu and in Arnhem Land.

The hike also runs along a dark stream that a local Bininj guide warned us about.

“We don’t swim in black water,” he told us, and when we see this creek, we understand his point.

The water creeps along slowly, its dark depths unknowable. But if there was ever a spot for a crocodile to hide in wait, it’s here. We stay well clear of the bank.

We carry on to the stony shoals of Barramundi Gorge and its shallow river. Here, we spot all kinds of wildlife like diving birds and bitterns, butterflies and tiny frogs.

We even spy barramundi in some of the deeper pools along the way. In the dry season, this part of the river is safe to walk along, cross and even swim in if you feel the need. Crocodiles can’t travel this far over the rocky terrain.

This is also why Maguk Waterfall and its plunge pool is safe to swim in.

During the wet season, however, roads become impassable, the waterways full of salties and the gentle waterfall a torrent.

Maguk Waterfall

We finally arrive at Maguk. There are already a couple of other visitors here, but that doesn’t take anything alway from the beauty.

Surrounding the pool are high cliffs of the escarpment—part of the plateau that runs for 500km from Nitmiluk (once called Katherine Gorge), through Kakadu to its coast and up to the Coburg Peninsula and Arnhem Land.

The cliffs create a ‘hidden paradise’ feel to the pool and it’s easy to understand why it’s sacred to the Bininj and Mungguy. And although they do not swim here, they allow visitors to do so, respectfully of course.

The cool water washes the dust and heat from our bodies and the sing of the waterfall clears our minds. It’s hard to leave this special place.

Back in the car, we drive the unsealed road until we come to a set of cathedral termite mounds that we spotted on the way in.

These enormous structures are always so impressive, and well worth a photo.

The drive back to Cooinda is relaxing, and we’re quiet as we reflect on what a magical place Maguk is.

We travelled to Kakadu National Park as media guests of Kakadu Tourism and Tourism NT, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Things To Do In Kakadu—Maguk Waterfall and Plunge Pool appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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Crown of the Top End, Kakadu National Park is a wonderland of spectacular landscapes, ancient culture and natural history. But at the centre of this national park lies the jewel in that crown.

Yellow Water—Ngurrungurrudjba in the Bininj language—is a tributary billabong of the South Alligator River.

Check out our video of this incredible waterway at sunset:

This broad waterway, contained in the dry season by sloping banks, leaning pandanus and towering speargrass, is a wildlife paradise.

From the huge saltwater crocodiles that slip silently through the shimmer of the still water to the tiny azure kingfishers poised on overhanging branches, there’s so much life here it’s almost too much to take in.

Beyond the glittering surface of Yellow Water, flood plains that stretch out to distant trees and escarpments offer hunting grounds to wading birds and water buffalo. Black necked storks (formerly jabiru) and brolgas, ibis and egrets pace the flats.

And when you think you’ve seen Yellow Water at its best, the reason for the name comes to light as the sun starts its run for the western horizon. The water turns to gold and you’re breath catches at the sight of the sky reflecting in the burnished mirror of the billabong.

Find the best Kakadu accommodation at the best prices here.

Yellow Water Cruise

From our safari-style Yellow Water Villa at Cooinda Lodge, we meet our cruise guides at reception. It’s a short five-minute bus transfer to the jetty at Yellow Water, where we board our boat.

These flat-bottomed launches are perfect for exploring the billabong and the covered roof keeps the hot sun off us, though it’s still sweltering in the still air of the tropical afternoon.

But we’re soon on the move and the breeze brings us back to life.

Our guide talks about Yellow River and its incredible array of wildlife. It’s not long before we see our first crocodile—in fact, even before we boarded, we saw one hanging around the boats. There are hundreds of them here.

Enormous, prehistoric, awe-inspiring.

Some glide along effortlessly, eyeing us from the meniscus of the water. Others, basking on muddy banks, gape their savage jaws, showing the terror of their teeth.

Our guide explains there’s no known reason for the crocodiles to do this; she suggests it’s purely a posturing behaviour. It doesn’t bring us any comfort and we shift in our seats as the guide brings the boat closer to one of these fascinating, voracious reptiles.

Aside from the salties, the birdlife here is extraordinary.

Jacanas, with their unfathomable feet, scuttle across lily pads, night herons hide their heads in search of fish, forest kingfishers flash blue and white in the light, spoonbills and ibis forage from their stilts, and sea eagles do battle for their catch with the harrying and ubiquitous whistling kites.

Every minute feels like an Attenborough moment, but as we watch, we realise this is all quite normal for Yellow Water.

Sunset’s Midas Touch Turns Everything To Gold At Yellow Water

Without warning, the sun had decided to make its way to the horizon. It’s either happened that quickly or—more likely—we’ve been so absorbed by watching the nature around us that we haven’t noticed the sky transform.

Bronzing the horizon, the great orb of the sun cooks its last dish of the day, toasting the clouds and brûléeing the water until it seems to crackle under our bow.

Closer the sun comes to the brink, and brighter orange and gold go the heavens and the water. Islands of pandanus and lotus lilies turn to black silhouettes on the water’s gleaming rink-like surface until, with a final goodbye, the sun burns red.

The sky turns purple, then that impossible twilight blue as our boat moves into position at our harbour. We make our way back to the coach as evening draws in still astounded by the magic of Yellow Water and Kakadu.

When’s The Best Time To Visit Yellow Water?

We visited Kakadu near the end of the Dry Season in the last week of September, which is also Kakadu Bird Week.

This is the time of year when the water levels are at their lowest and the wildlife is concentrated into a much smaller area. This means you’re more likely to see things.

It’s also the best time of year to see the incredible spectacle of migrating magpie geese that fill the waterways and floodplains in their tens of thousands.

Check out our birdwatching experience with the remarkable Luke Paterson of NT Bird Specialists here.

However, you’re sure to have an incredible experience at Yellow Water no matter what time of year you’re here.

As for times of day, the sunset cruise was unbelievable, though there is also a sunrise cruise too, which would mean a nice and cool ride before the day gets too hot.

We highly recommend booking your seat on this cruise as early as possible—especially for the sunset ride—as these experiences fill up fast. And quite rightly so.

We travelled to Kakadu as media guests of Kakadu Tourism and Tourism NT, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Must-Do in Kakadu: Yellow Water Cruise at Sunset appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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It’s no exaggeration to say Kakadu, three hours east of Darwin, is magnificent. The twice the size of Lebanon, this national park in the Northern Territory has everything.

Kakadu’s landscapes are incredibly diverse, with savanna woodlands, monsoon vine forests, hills and sandstone escarpments, tidal flats, mangroves, rivers and billabongs—even 100km of rugged estuarine coastline within its borders.

Home to the Bininj/Mungguy, the longest living culture on earth, Kakadu has one of the largest collections of ancient rock art in the country. It’s also full of dramatic landscapes and waterfalls, packed with wildlife—almost a third of all Australia’s bird species live here.

There are also an awful lot of crocodiles.

In the Northern Territory, there are over 100,000 adult saltwater crocodiles. Around 10% of them live in Kakadu National Park alone. There are also freshwater crocs here too, but they’re usually shy and rarely seen. The salties, however, are bold, aggressive and voracious.

Find more of our stories on Kakadu here.

Cahill’s Crossing—the crocodile crossroads

Running straight across one of the major roads that cleave the border between Kakadu and Arnhem Land’s Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, the East Alligator River is a favourite hunting ground for hundreds of crocodiles.

Check out our video of Cahill’s Crossing:

In the dry season, between May to October, the water levels of the East Alligator are low enough to allow 4×4 vehicles capable of water crossings to ford the river.

However, it’s still risky.

Along with the river currents and debris like rocks and branches, the road is also the shallowest point of a common white mullet swim. These large fish are forced down the brackish water by tide flows and fill the waterway, enticing many large crocodiles into the area.

And that’s all part of the spectacle.

From the (very safe) viewing platforms a few metres above the banks of the river, with whistling kites circling overhead, you can watch these living dinosaurs snap fish up as they swim past, crunching down on them with their powerful jaws.

And the longer you gaze at the river, the more crocodiles you see.

At first they look like floating logs, but then you notice these ‘logs’ hold their position in the stream of the river. Then one turns, its sharply crenelated tail turning. You see eyes and a long snout, the glint of long teeth.

Sometimes you see little front feet poking out of the water.

When they’re hunting on the surface, salties—and only ones in this area—have developed what’s called the ‘cross posture technique’. They’re feel for fish that swim by them that they can reach round and chomp up, trebling their chances of catching a meal.

What’s The Best Time To Go To Cahill’s Crossing?

The best time of year to see crocodiles at Cahill’s Crossing is in the dry season, but especially between July-October, when the movement of fish upstream is at its greatest.

During this time, low tide is prime viewing. Seeing the tide change and the crocodiles all turn to face the water flow, and therefore oncoming fish, is fascinating.

It’s also the most dramatic time to see cars crossing, water surging above their headlights, each bump and bounce of the uneven road surface surely sending sickening jolts through the stomachs of the driver and their passengers.

Low tide also means you’ll be able to see the crocs as they swim and climb onto the inundated road, poised waiting for fish—or anything else—that might float into their fatal jaws.

What About The Cars?

It’s amazing to watch vehicles* driving through the river—already a precarious manoeuvre—and then have to avoid a large crocodile that’s decided to set up camp on the submerged road.

By law, drivers have to give way to the animals, who tend not to take much notice of big four-wheel-drives or service vehicles bearing down on them. Eventually the crocodile will move out of the way, a surging splash signalling its retreat to deeper water.

Vehicles must have four-wheel-drive capabilities, high clearance and preferably a snorkel for this kind of water crossing.

*Because this road leads across the border from Kakadu National Park to Arnhem Land and Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, you need a separate permit to cross the East Alligator River here.

Where Else Can You See Crocodiles In Kakadu?

With so many salties in the park, there’s a good chance you’ll see one in most large water sources. Needless to say, unless you’re with a guide or a parks official has told you expressly, don’t swim at Kakadu. There are places that are safe, but you still need to check.

Also, never be the first one in!

The Yellow Water Billabong (Ngurrungurrudjba), which is part of the South Alligator River, and also nearby Jim Jim Creek is packed with crocs.

You can do amazing cruises along Yellow Water—highly recommended.

There are also river cruises you can take up to the southern edge of Cahill’s Crossing. The boats move between these giant apex predators as they hunt.

Locals refer to people who do this as ‘temporary residents’

As you can imagine, it is not a good idea to try and go over Cahill’s Crossing on foot.

The Traditional Owners ask you to stay away from the water’s edge, to not cross the causeway on foot and to observe these impressive creatures from the safety of the viewing platform.

Couldn’t agree more!

We travelled to Kakadu National Park as media guests of Kakadu Tourism and Tourism NT, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Crossing The World’s Most Dangerous Road—Cahill’s Crossing, NT appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.

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As we trundle over the low bridge spanning the stony shoals of the Towamba River, which flows from the Great Dividing Range all the way to Eden on the southern limits of New South Wales, the feeling of remoteness and the beauty of the region really takes us.

This road, magnificently named the Big Jack Mountain Road, bends and flexes its way along the valley beside the river, snaking its way to Currajong Retreat: our hideaway for the next few days.

Check out our walkthrough video of Currajong Retreat.

Glamping on the Sapphire Coast—Currajong Retreat

So here’s the deal.

Currajong Retreat is a family-run high-end glamping retreat on 100 acres of beautiful wooded farmland on the edge of the valley of the Towamba River. It’s some 45 minutes west of towns like Eden, Merimbula and Bega on the aptly named blue waters of the Sapphire Coast midway between Sydney and Melbourne.

At the moment there are three luxurious safari style ‘tents’ on the property, though there are plans for another two—one of which will be fully accessible.

The cost of the two-night minimum booking includes all meals and drinks, with add-ons that we’ll come to later.

There’s a homestead on the property, which acts as reception, and it’s also where the majority of the goats live.

Oh, didn’t I mention? This is a working Angora goat farm. More about these woolly little treasures later too.

Currajong Retreat’s accommodation

It’s really hard to call these retreats ‘tents’. Indeed, the roof and three of the four walls are canvas like a tent, but that’s where all camping similes end.

Through the front door, a partition wall hides the entrance to the fully tiled spacious bathroom, complete with native flower arrangements and a walk-in shower, fluffy gowns and slippers.

In the main section of the room is a large queen bed, a comfy sofa and a glass dining table for two.

Along one canvas side is a kitchenette with a sink, refrigerator and microwave, as well as a portable electric stove in the cupboard. You also have a kettle, toaster and pod coffee machine at your disposal.

This is all moot really though, as the lovely Forsdick family, who own and run the retreat, bring all your meals to the door.

Also inside the retreat is a wood-burning heater, which would be amazing to fire up in the cold winter months. Its chimney pokes out of the canvas roof, making this impressive build feel even less like a tent.

But the best is still to come.

Have you ever been camping in a tent with a veranda?

As you push through the giant flyscreen curtain at the back of the retreat, the countryside opens up to you. Beyond the wonderful comforts and cosiness inside, the back of the retreat is impressive.

The timber deck, some 9x4m, juts out over the valley giving you immaculate views of the river below, the trees and fields on the far bank and in the distance, the mountain silhouettes of Egan Peaks.

On this veranda, which seems to float into the valley, is where we spend most of our time at Currajong Retreat. Loungers and the outdoor table setting are perfect for relaxing and watching the birdlife—there’s even a pair of binoculars and a spotters book in the room for this very purpose.

But best of all, at one end of the deck, is a huge deep-fill bath big enough for two people. It’s open to the sky, beyond the cover of the canvas shade. It’s easy to picture yourself soaking in warm water staring up at the stars on a cool evening!

And if you happen to want more food than the retreat provides for you, there’s also a very neat gas barbecue on the balcony too.

The way these safari tents are built remind us of the beautiful retreats at Cooinda Lodge in Kakadu. Though, while those in Cooinda are a perfect base to explore the national park, these at Currajong Retreat are far more spacious and restful.

Building your nest here and making yourself at home is the main aim of Currajong Retreat.

What Is There To Do At Currajong Retreat?

Currajong Retreat is built for comfort, romance and relaxation. But there’s still enough to do here to keep even the most active-minded happy.

For us, the digital detox was more than enough to keep us occupied. Currajong Retreat is completely off-grid and out of network range. The reception, however, does have signal if you need to deal with something urgently.

Venturing beyond the walls of your sanctuary, there’s plenty to see and do.

Goats—but no ordinary goats

This 100-acre property is not just for the Forsdick family and Currajong Retreat. It is a working farm.

Over 400 head of specialty Angora Goats live here, raised for their unique and valuable hair. Coming out in tight curls, Angora ‘wool’, known as mohair, is used in luxury textiles—the best of it going to suit makers in Italy.

But these goats are the friendliest we’ve ever come across.

You can organise a tour of the farm, where you can meet the young ones and their mothers (does), who quite literally come running over for a cuddle and a stroke. There is also a paddock for the bucks, and in spite of their intimidating horns, many of these big males enjoy a good head-scratch.

The Towamba River

The Towamba River, which you first cross on the Big Jack Mountain Road on the way in, and that you can see from the deck of your retreat, is safe to swim in.

During the summer, its cool waters are a welcome antidote to the heat of the day. In winter it’s probably a bit cold to swim, but still worth the short walk to its stony banks. The views from the water are stunning.

Bushwalks

While you’re at Currajong Retreat, you’re free to explore the acreage, which flows down the river valley and extends through woodlands and fields.

There’s plenty of wildlife to spot as you’re going, including snakes, so make sure you go appropriately attired.

Nature-spotting

As we mentioned, there’s so much wildlife around here. We put the binoculars in our room to good use, seeing all kinds of birds from the balcony, including a pair of rare gang gang cockatoos, kites and even a white bellied sea eagle, reminding us that the coast is still not far off.

We also found a discarded snake skin and spotted a large monitor lizard clinging to the side of a tree having a nap.

Add-On Experiences

The Sundowner Cocktail Hamper is a brilliant idea. Your hosts set up the drinks trolley in your retreat with all the ingredients for the cocktails of your choice.

You then put the components together to enjoy a romantic drink at your leisure.

Currajong Retreat can also organise a candle-lit dinner on your balcony (weather permitting), which includes the sundowner cocktails, and is the height of romance. Arranging lanterns around your table, they set out an amazing three-course spread for you to feast on.

This was such a memorable experience, we can’t recommend it enough.

There is also an option for a picnic on the grounds. Everything is organised for you; you merely have to arrive and enjoy the beautiful al fresco lunch laid out for you.

Currajong Retreat can also organise an in-room massage for you. I love a massage, even more so when the treatment table comes to me! You can have specialist mobile massage therapists set up in your retreat and really enhance your relaxation.

This is something we’ve had a couple of times before—in Gerringong on the South Coast and in the Hunter Valley—and it is absolutely divine!

Although this is an all-inclusive experience, these extra-cost options really are worth it.

While this might not be camping in the broadest of senses, Currajong Retreat allows you to experience the wonderful nature and countryside of this beautiful part of New South Wales. As far as we’re concerned, this is the only way to camp!

We stayed at Currajong Retreat as media guests, but our experiences and opinions remain our own.

The post Ultimate Glamping Escape—Currajong Retreat, NSW appeared first on Mr and Mrs Romance.